'78 Aquasport live well

[AustinIII]

I beleive to have the original live well and plumbing set up in my newly aquired 1978 Aquasport. I have redone the transom with what I found to be an incredible product "Sea Cast"  I have gelcoated the renovation and am very pleased with it so far. I am now to the point of puting everything back and for the life of me I just don't seem to understand the plumbing for the live well. I have tried and think I have an idea but would really like some solid advice or maybe just a picture of the workings before I commit myself to my  "I think I know how it works" ideas.

[RickK]

Welcome aboard AustinIII  :!:  :!:
We have several members going through the same thing right now so they'll be around shortly.

[gran398]

Do you have the external livewell "boxes?"

[AustinIII]

No. I have the sump style right in front of the engine. There is a huge brass fitting that feeds water into the live well with a "T" on it, a riser, shut off valve, a recirculation pump (thats the only pump there is) a spray bar, and three other valves it looks like it is set up to turn off certain valves and empty itself

In the pump, spray bar and valve assembly there is a line that goes through the transom again, im assuming thats how to drain it. When i bought the boat there was a clip all by itself right below that line, so something is missing. I believe i know how it works and would like to be sure it works well. I havent drilled any holes in the new transom as yet.

 I have a few questions about the "T" and riser. The location of the recircuit pump makes me believe this was a factory install. One final detail there is no other drain holes other than the forementioned line.  Has anyone ever seen anything like this before and if yes HELP please

[gran398]

Most folks now forget the aerator and plumb them straight recirculating.

Here is how most in-floor livewells are done in Carolina for menhaden (bunker).

Clam-shell pickup/thru-hull (with seacock above) installed through hull on hull bottom at rear of bilge. Away from interference with engine (With single, mount port or starboard of centerline). This is a fitting for 3/4 inch fiberglass reinforced hose. All bronze with stainless handle. No delrin/plastic, etc. You don't want any of this freezing or cracking.

Rule 500 to 800 (or more) livewell pump mounts (screws) directly to seacock. I like the right angle ones best. Try and get the pump body to end up fitting BELOW the seacock. If you end up using a water puppy type self-priming pump, this is not necessary. But those are loud, expensive, low flow, and use a lot of amps.

This hose runs directly to bottom of baitwell, into well with 3/4 inch thru-hull, nylon, not plastic.

Overflow at rear of baitwell: Use 1 1/2 inch nylon thru-hull at top of tank, at rear. Want centered so when boat jumps on plane, straight flow out the back. Also bear in mind that the hole itself needs to be about 4 inches below the top of tank so when jump on plane,  doesn't overflow through the top and onto the deck.

Use 1 1/2 inch fiberglass reinforced hose here too. This will run straight downhill to a 1 1/2 inch seacock thru-hull drilled straight thru rear of transom, low as possible.

To keep bait from getting their noses stuck in the drain, 5200 half a wiffle ball over the outlet at the top.

To use, open both thru hulls, flip switch for pump....you're fishing.

Always leave both seacocks closed tight when not in use. Check hoses, clamps, etc. often. Keep seacocks sprayed down with protectant.

Good luck, hope this all makes sense.

[Capt. Bob]

Clam-shell pickup/thru-hull (with seacock above) installed through hull on hull bottom at rear of bilge.  This is a fitting for 3/4 inch fiberglass reinforced hose. All bronze with stainless handle. No delrin/plastic, etc. You don't want any of this stuff freezing and cracking.

Austin,
You can save a few bucks by using a Marelon thru hull and seacock. It's glass fused nylon with a temp range to -40 degrees F.
If things get that cold where you are, more things than your seacock will be cracking. :o


PS... Delrin makes great sliders, if you're into sport bikes