175 osprey leaking

[woody]

I seem to be taking on a slight bit of water in my '96 175 osprey. I'm suspecting the  thru hull just below the waterline on the starboard side that goes to the baitwell/washdown pump . I can't see the below deck connection to check it although there is an inspection plate above it that gives access to the fuel fill hose . How can a below the waterline thru hull not have a valve on it or am I missing something ? Has anybody had this problem ?

[RickK]

If it is an exhaust hose I don't think they usually have a valve on them.

[woody]

Hey Rick.  I guess it is an exhaust hose , but how do you get to it if a clamp comes loose or the hose gives out ? It IS a fitting below the waterline . Does your 170 have this set up ?

[cc150a]

I had the same question on my 200 Osprey. Every boat I ever owned that had a below the water line fitting, had some sort of sea cock (valve). I thought this was Coast Guard regulation. Pretty scary!! If that hose blows out or comes disconnected your sunk. Maybe there is one but I cant find it. And if you cant find easily, its basically no good in an emergency.

[RickK]

My 170 has no thru hulls.  I was asking Chuck about what seems to be the same setup on his boat - like a 1-1/4" thru hull at about the waterline or just above and then he has a fuel vent a little higher above that.  He said the big thru hull was something to do with the drain for the baitwell.  Maybe he'll pipe in on this too.

[seabob4]

I had the same question on my 200 Osprey. Every boat I ever owned that had a below the water line fitting, had some sort of sea cock (valve). I thought this was Coast Guard regulation. Pretty scary!! If that hose blows out or comes disconnected your sunk. Maybe there is one but I cant find it. And if you cant find easily, its basically no good in an emergency.

It sounds what you guys are talking about is the livewell drain t/hull.  Builders usually have to get them as close to the waterline as possible so they actuall do run downhill and drain.  When the boat is new, that t/hull will remain above the waterline, hence, no shut-off valve not access.  The problem is as the boat grows older and heavier due to water in the hull or the foam, she sits lower in the water and, guess what?  NOW you have a t/hull that is below the waterline!

Yes, any fitting that is below the waterline when the boat is built MUST be of a material suitable for the install (bronze, SS, marelon) and MUST have a shut-off valve and a means to access it.  Too bad some builders don't take into account that boats gain weight with age and fittings ride lower in the water...

[Robob]

I started wondering the same thing about my 1995 175 Osprey.

The through hull fitting on the starboard side just above the water line is the outlet for the bait well. The intake is on the bottom of the hull on the port side near the keel about a foot or so from the transom. I went into the round hatch in the center of the floor near the outboard and found a sea cock with a big red shutoff handle.

I feel better now:-)

[seabob4]

Robob,
In '95, I believe we were using Nylon T/hulls (the white one's) for all t/hulls above the water line.  I hope yours stays ABOVE the water line!

[Robob]

So do I!!!

The fitting is white, nylon I guess, and the boat sits on a cradle in my backyard except when I swing it out on the davits.

It does seem that the outlet line from the bait well to the fitting runs downhill but I would be more comfortable if the fitting was higher.

Something that needs to be watched.

[seabob4]

So do I!!!

The fitting is white, nylon I guess, and the boat sits on a cradle in my backyard except when I swing it out on the davits.

It does seem that the outlet line from the bait well to the fitting runs downhill but I would be more comfortable if the fitting was higher.

Something that needs to be watched.

Robob,
Where exactly on the hull does the t/hull sit?  One thing you might want to do, either in the vertical face on the aft side of the casting platform if it's that far forward, or in the inwale directly above it, is cut a 3 3/8" hole for a 4" inspection plate to cover.  That way, at least you have access to it should the t/hull or hose ever fail, and you could try and plug it up...

[Robob]

The through hull is just about 2 inches above the square chine where the bottom joins the side of the hull at the rear of the bait well and the front of the console. I may have to cut into the inwale as you suggest.

Thanks

[Robob]

I haven't had my 175 Osprey long so am still learning what is what and where:-)

It has a lot more gizmos than my 1966 Whaler Sakonnet had.

I shut off the sea cock on the intake line. I seldom use the bait well, usually just for dry storage. If I get ambitious I may rig a diverter valve and a raw water wash down.

My 175 also has what I believe is a live well under the casting platform which I think is emptied with a bilge pump. I'm not sure where that pump is located:-(

I have 3 bilge pump switches on the dash. One labeled bilge #1 one labeled bilge #2 and one labeled bait well.

As part of cleaning the boat I ran some water in the live well and pumped it out but neglected to see where the discharge pipe was located.

Another learning project to put on the list:-)

As a newbie to Aquasport any advice and  knowledge is welcome

Bob on Tampa Bay

[cc150a]

No Seabob I am talking about where the water enters the boat before it goes to the baitwell/washdown pump. Not the drain,thats well above the waterline on my boat.  There is no valve on the inlet

[Wayne K]

I had the same problem on my 1995 175 Osprey. To find the problem I plugged the livewell drain with a small rubber ball.Then I set the boat level and filled the live well with watter. The live well slowly started to drain down. At this point I opened the hatch in the fish box and above the rear bilge.I observed water flowing from the center to the front and stern of the boat.When I removed the ball from the drain the water stopped leaking into the bilge.To repair this I had a local boat dealer cut a 6 in. hole in the floor and install a deck plate. He then installed a new brass thru hull fitting and brass sea cock.This repair cost me $350 but it is very professional and my leak is gone!