Johnson 200 Idling high and surges

[jasons215]

I have a johnson 200 ocean runner that is idling high (around 1800 rpms) and then will surge up to 3000 rpms and back down. I bought the boat 2 weeks ago and water test it and it was running fine. This weekend I decided to buy some spark plugs and a new water/fuel seperator. Installed them on the boat, hooked up the hose and it started idling high, then would increase in rpms, then drop back to 1800 rpms. Even then the idle never dropped to where it should. Any ideas? I thought I may have air in the fuel lines but I am lost now.

[Capt. Bob]

High idling/surging are indicators of a lean condition (more air than fuel).

I'd re-check everything you did, just to be on the safe side.

[wingtime]

I'd agree with Capt Bob sounds lean to me.

[jasons215]

Thanks guys! Thats what I was thinking but I cant seem to get the aire out. The nut that is on the fuel/water seperator is seized on or way to tight for me to want to put any more on it. I am dropping it off with my mechanic today to go ahead and do a full check on it.

[jasons215]

I just wanted to reply with the answer to what was wrong with my outboard. I hate seeing post not being answered when someone has a problem. Mechanic showed and told me the problem was the Timing Base Trigger was seized. He also said this is one that stumped him on why is was seize or what caused it?

[flounderpounder225]

I just wanted to reply with the answer to what was wrong with my outboard. I hate seeing post not being answered when someone has a problem. Mechanic showed and told me the problem was the Timing Base Trigger was seized. He also said this is one that stumped him on why is was seize or what caused it?

Easy day, and your good-to-go Thanks for finishing the story.
Marc

[Hi308]

Ok this may sound weird, but it's just a suggestion. My 185 Evinrude, would accelerate fine then never get back down to a low idle. Turns out it was the accelerator cable. It had a plastic sleeve on it with the eyehole mount, the metal wire was slipping inside the plastic. I readjusted the mount to compensate and she's running like a champ. Check that out before you go spending money on it.

[flounderpounder225]

Turns out it was the accelerator cable. It had a plastic sleeve on it with the eyehole mount, the metal wire was slipping inside the plastic. I readjusted the mount to compensate and she's running like a champ. Check that out before you go spending money on it.

Hi308,
Sounds like you better get a new throttle cable??  That stuff will leave you stranded usually at the worst possible time... Just my opinion.
Marc

[Hi308]

I rigged it. It'll be fine.  

[gran398]

Fitz....calling Fitz.

Trust he'll respond ASAP. Take stock in his recommendation.

Guys, heading out to South Dakota early am for a few days of walking the prairie for pheasant. Looking forward to blue sky, no cars, mother nature. Best to all, have a great weekend.

Sorry to trash the thread....so no farewells...keep on jukin', all have a great weekend. Will foment lies upon return.

Lew....how much for the teak cupholder?   Just pm, tx.

 

[flounderpounder225]

Lew....how much for the teak cupholder?   Just pm, tx.

 

That's some funny Shiat'  

[John Jones]

[Boatdood]

Flounder, I really like it when a guy takes the time to share the solution. I just read the problem this morning and my mind was going on the solutions, but then there it was. Cool. For those curious my thoughts were:

On the initial test run it was in the water. Then he ran it on the hose. Those engines will lean down a bit on a hose and it will cause them to idle high, but not that high. Usually around 1200 to 1400, and no surging.

Next thought would be the timer base sticking. It's a close fit and doesn't take but a bit of sticky old grease or even a bit of corrosion to make it stick.

Next thought would be throttle cable or control box problem, but we never got that far.

The nice thing about the older engines is that as simple as they are, usually the fix is simple too.