Mounting Leaning post to floor

[seabob4]

Slippery,
Not saying that the toggle-bolt method won't work, which it will, but that every builder who has access pies in the cockpit sole, and they ALL do, to t/bolt components has decreased the value of the boat right out the door?

Yea, that would be a good bet. Any builder that has the foresight to install backing plates where they know seats, consoles, livewell..... are going to be installed generally sell for quite a bit more than a boat with plastic access hatches everywhere. It would be safe to say thats what separates higher end builders from lower end or production builders. Quality of hatches, rigging, planning, etc.

And that's what made Aquasports a great value when they were built...a lot of boat for the money, could compete out on the water with the Grady's, the BW's, whatever.  And trust me, I have been a member of Great Grady and Continuous Wave for quite some time now.  From what I hear and read from the Whaler and GW owners?  They don't sound much better than AS's, and in some cases, quite a bit worse...

[Aswaff400]

Maybe an alternative is to remove the panel above the fuel tank and look under the floor where you want to (or have) mounted it?

newer 200 ospreys dont have a removable panel. the deck is all one piece. only way to remove it is to cut the deck up

[slippery73]

Slippery,
Not saying that the toggle-bolt method won't work, which it will, but that every builder who has access pies in the cockpit sole, and they ALL do, to t/bolt components has decreased the value of the boat right out the door?

Yea, that would be a good bet. Any builder that has the foresight to install backing plates where they know seats, consoles, livewell..... are going to be installed generally sell for quite a bit more than a boat with plastic access hatches everywhere. It would be safe to say thats what separates higher end builders from lower end or production builders. Quality of hatches, rigging, planning, etc.

And that's what made Aquasports a great value when they were built...a lot of boat for the money, could compete out on the water with the Grady's, the BW's, whatever.  And trust me, I have been a member of Great Grady and Continuous Wave for quite some time now.  From what I hear and read from the Whaler and GW owners?  They don't sound much better than AS's, and in some cases, quite a bit worse...

Not saying there isn't a use for access hatches, just that I wouldn't add any more than what came from the factory. If it came from the factory with any. Also, grady white, boston whaler, etc. Are production boats.... not what I was thinking when I said a quality high end builders. Now, yellowfin, contender, intrepid, dorado, gause..... etc. Are high end custom builders. You won't find a plastic access hatch in any of these boats. Everything is glass, and everything is made to last.

I also understand the price difference on these boats, big difference. But, as I said before I wouldn't cheap out a decent boat by adding more cheesy plastic hatches. The older aquasports, didn't have plastic access hatches anywhere. At least I know my 73 didn't, everything was glass, and everything was well built. Once genmar bought them im sure the product degraded heavily just like, seacraft, mako, whaler, etc. When big business bought them out they drove the name and tradition into the ground.

[seabob4]

When I was building Aquasports, there were always 8 boats on our line every day, 10 boats on the 175/200/215 DC line every day, 8 boats on the Explorer line every day, day in day out.  11 hours a day, 7 on Saturday...for 3 years.  Do the math.  People bought Aquasports, they got a great value for their money, and they loved them.  And they had a lot of "plastic" hatches.

Look at the members here who have a lot of those boats, and still love them.  No, they're not an Intrepid (hey, I worked there, they have plenty of pies... ), but AS never said they were.  And apparently, the OP in this thread doesn't really have an issue installing a couple extra....

I have a couple of old Stamas buddies who work at Gause, I know Wiley at Yellowfin, I know the Dorado weenie-head used to not meet payroll on Fridays,  Ken Clinton at Intrepid in a top ass****, yeah, I know, but their top tier...yeah, I know.

And AS is a great boat, whether it was built in '73 or '03...

[slippery73]

When I was building Aquasports, there were always 8 boats on our line every day, 10 boats on the 175/200/215 DC line every day, 8 boats on the Explorer line every day, day in day out.  11 hours a day, 7 on Saturday...for 3 years.  Do the math.  People bought Aquasports, they got a great value for their money, and they loved them.  And they had a lot of "plastic" hatches.

Look at the members here who have a lot of those boats, and still love them.  No, their not an Intrepid (hey, I worked their, they have plenty of pies... ), but AS never said they were.  And apparently, the OP in this thread doesn't really have an issue installing a couple extra....

I have a couple of old Stamas buddies who work at Gause, I know Wiley at Yellowfin, I know the Dorado weenie-head used to not meet payroll on Fridays,  Ken Clinton at Intrepid in a top ass****, yeah, I know, but their top tier...yeah, I know.

And AS is a great boat, whether it was built in '73 or '03...

Ok, ok, I get it. You love aquasports. Im familiar with all the boat companies listed above, apparently your familiar with them too. Im not here to bash any boats or any manufacturers. All boats have their flaws and I don't really give two ..... wether joe blow met payroll on fridays. That doesn't have anything to do with the boats they build. There are plenty of good builders out there that cant run a business, market themselves, or sell their boats. That doesn't mean they don't build a quality product. In many instances they build a much better product then your beloved aquasports. Your right though, I know how building a thousand boats a year just oozes of thoughts quality.

I don't know why you took such offense to my suggestion to the poster not to defile his boat with cheesy plastic hatches (and yes, ask anyone, they are cheesy), when there is an easier and better solution. In fact its common practice to install pedestal seats with those toggle bolts that you said would work. Why would you possibly recommend to cut 3" holes in a good deck just to install a through bolt? Guess you were the guy that cut the hole through the floor in my aquasport for the rigging but didn't take the extra 5 minutes to seal the core so it didn't rot out. Yea.... your right, it was probably because you had 8 boats on the line and you didn't have time.

Get off your horse, give good advice, and don't bash others if they have a difference of opinion.

[RickK]

Rick,

What is the procedure to remove the panel?

Gerard

I can see the panel in the seat in the pic and it looks like it has a pie pan access plate in it already.  Is there any screws in the panel around the edge?

[seabob4]

To be revisited tomorrow...or later today...

[RickK]

All boats have their flaws and I don't really give two ..... wether joe blow met payroll on fridays. That doesn't have anything to do with the boats they build.

I don't think this was thought out real well - it doesn't affect the design of the boat but of course it affects how the boat was built. If the guy can't afford to pay his people he probably can't afford some of the materials either - so the ripple affect is there.  If you weren't getting paid you'd pour your heart into making the best boat for the owner?  This is what happened to the quality of the Aquasports just before the company almost went belly up.

Anyway, I think you both made your point and can let this battle die away.  Now back to the problem at hand - anchoring this seat.

[South Bay]

Rick & Bob,

Thanks for the suggestions

I'll get down to the boat after work (if it's still light) and take a closer look at both options. I have no problem installing the "Deck plates" to properly anchor the leaning post. I'm 6'5 and 290 pounds so I'm much more concerned with it being properly anchored than aesthetics

The cover over the fuel tank appears to be fastened only with caulking, is that correct?

Thanks again, I appreciate the time you take to help others

Gerard

[RickK]

The more I think about this, the more I think I'm wrong and you'll run into a tub that does not allow visual access anywhere. You will have to follow what is being offered.  It'd be nice to get a plate under the deck to reinforce the install instead of trying to rely on fiberglass (hitting the stringer) alone but access is the problem.  The fuel tank is sitting between stringers so we know where they are - how wide are they    I agree that being able to see and measure the stringer is a good approach but it requires cutting an access that you'll need to seal real well. The toggle seems to be the strongest approach - my $.02.

[Aswaff400]

Rick & Bob,

Thanks for the suggestions

I'll get down to the boat after work (if it's still light) and take a closer look at both options. I have no problem installing the "Deck plates" to properly anchor the leaning post. I'm 6'5 and 290 pounds so I'm much more concerned with it being properly anchored than aesthetics

The cover over the fuel tank appears to be fastened only with caulking, is that correct?

Thanks again, I appreciate the time you take to help others

Gerard

nope, the Genmar made 200 ospreys dont have a removable tank lid. that line is only for looks.

[seabob4]

Aswaff is right on that one...which was a stupid move on Genmar's part, but what do I know?

Gerard, you have your options now.  Do what you feel comfortable with...

[gran398]

Southbay, you have some options. Seabob offers trusted advice, has worked on the line, and is a respected source for accurate, quality information. Slippery, thanks for your input and membership here. No member is better than another, and all are equally respected.

Southbay, you've gone the extra mile on your leaning post install.  Most folk would "screw it and glue it" that is, use #10 to #12 pan head stainless screws, 1.5 to 2 inch, 3M fresh 5200 on the bed, let it tack up, and set it and forget it. Quality install.

If you'd like to to see the stringers, and where it will mount, with the toggles ....easy enough, pull the tank hatch, and measure across. However, based on PM discussion, we'd take the standard route, as described above. Whatever crew weight placed upon the leaning post is a non-concern. The 5200 is the ticket, with the # 10 or 12 pan-head stainless on the ass-end.

The 5200 is a helluva adhesive. One member said he pulled the bolts from his outboard, and had to take a come-a-long to pull the outboard from the transom when glued with 5200. Same as the previous tank-bed discussion. The 5200 will get the job done on the leaning post base install, weighted till it sets up, with screws.

Best,

G3

[Capt. Bob]

SB,
One more opinion to cloud your train of thought.

5200 is strong adhesive but....

What is it bonding to?  
You have to ask this because my experience with 5200 is that it all too often will bring the surface material with it, if forces try and separate it. That is, it will tend to tear the fiberglass from the core material, especially if the core material to fiberglass bond is weakened by either age, moisture, or just a poor original bond at the factory. It (5200) is often much stronger than the material it bonds to.

By your own admittance, you're a big boy and couple that with a rough sea and that leaning post will experience a much higher degree of force acting on its ability (through the connections) to resist the moment that holds it in place while at rest.

Through bolting with a proper backing plate spreads those forces out and makes for the best connection by interfacing the connecting materials with the much larger area of the deck.

Toggle bolts, while not as effective, still help spread the connection load to the overall deck area.

Screws and glue limit the connection to the connecting material itself and the screw threads/adhesive. They are further burdened by the fact that if not properly sealed (as all connections are) that water will enter and slowly weaken the material connection to the threads.

Maybe you should just sit on the cooler

All kidding aside, the choice is yours but I would think that the toggle bolts would be your current best solution, especially if you over drill the holes and can fill them with epoxy and then re-drill to the proper size. This would help greatly with the sealing process in whichever method you choose.

Good luck.