Last question before she goes in the water.

[leonardo]

Engine normal operating temperature.  So what is normal and what should the thermostat be?  When I first ran the engine it seemed to cycle at 140 to 160 degrees.  Now it's running up to 180.  I'm using a garden hose to provide water for the raw side.  The hose doesn't seem to be collapsing so I guess the feed amount is ok.  I was going to pull the thermostat and replace with a new one just to be on the safe side.  I've run the engine about an hour so far over a period of 4 runs.  I want to run it about an hour before she takes that first swim.  I'm running from a regular outboard tank mixed with a little upper lube to get a good coat of oil over everything.  I also need to check the alternator output since it's showing "0".  I also want to change the fuel filter and flush the lines before I connect to that nice new fuel pump.  The engine sounds strong but raw water exits the right hand exhaust more than the left.  Any ideas on that too?

[leonardo]

Aquasport 240 with chevy 350 engine.

[leonardo]

Well I think I figured this one out.  I think my raw water pump impeller failed.  That is the reason for the higher temp and low exit flow.  The boat sat for a time and I think the running caused some of the blades to fail.  The motor is too hot to work over right now but I am going to remove the cover plate and inspect the impeller.  Pretty sure I am correct and just the same I plan to replace it for safety sake.  I'm finding ALL kinds of weird things.  The other one is redundant starting solenoids. One on the starter (which looks new and one on the crankcase that is all painted up and very old and tired looking.  Both are wired....so I'll get the one on the starter to be the main solenoid and remove the other..  Any other hints?

[leonardo]

$29 at West Marine and a few minutes to install the new impeller took complete control of the temp and flow problem.  The "old" solenoid was removed and yes it was original back when the solenoid was not part of the regular starter (like it is now) so that got rid of some dead weight as well as removal of the ignition wire from the I side of the new solenoid since the boat has electronic ignition and the coil and that wire are not necessary.  So the only "problem" left to trace is the ignition switch wire does not power the solenoid, I think there is a break in the line so I'll just replace it.  Also now with the good impeller my garden hose does not keep up with the raw water flow needed and the hose collapses while drawing water to run the engine, tomorrow I'll set up a holding tank with fresh raw water and let the engine draw from that with the hose refilling the tank.  If anything writing things down on the forum helps me keep my trouble shooting straight.  I want to get my boat in the Bay for a test run of an hour or so but first would like to run on land for that same amount of time.  Transmission shifts well and is smooth.

[RickK]

Sounds like you're making good progress  
Go into your User Control Panel  (just below aqua bar above, right side) and enter your location so we know where you're from and it might narrow down some local help (plus so we don't have to ask alot - we're getting old and....   ) - tanx.  It'll appear under your username in the left column.

[seabob4]

Leonardo,
We would love to see some pics...

[slvrlng]

I think this is his boat.
http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww17 ... ceaqua.jpg

[leonardo]

Yeah, that's m'boat.  I can't figure how to post the pictures,  I've tried.  I've been working on the wiring rats nest this morning and cleaned out most of the wires to nowhere and established a better ground for all the gauges and instrument panel things.  I still don't think the amp meter is wired correctly  i always thought it should be in the accessory side of the ignition switch line since that's where all the fuses run off.  I'm looking for a barrel to use as a water tanks to supply the raw water cooling line.

[GoneFission]

Leo - you are right about the raw water pump, and you also need to know you should NEVER run the raw water pump dry.  The impeller can be damaged with as little as 30 seconds of dry running.  The impeller is easy to replace, and my advice is to keep a spare on the boat - just in case.  

Regarding thermostats, some folks don't even run them on the Chevy V-8s, but that makes for a cold engine and poor fuel economy due to unburned hydrocarbons with cold heads.  My advice is a 160 degree thermostat - that is high enough for good engine temperature, yet provides a level of protection for detonation (pinging or valve clatter) if you get some less-than-adequate fuel.  

Good luck!

[wingtime]

Leonardo,

The use to two starter solenoids can be common.  The reason is amps.  The start wire that runs from your key switch can be rather long and is usually a light wire.  So it can have a hard time supplying enough amps to pull in the Chevy style solenoid on the starter.  Keep in mind the chevy style starter mounted solenoid serves two purposes.  1) it acts as a relay engaging the high amp connection   2) it kicks out the pinion in the starter.     The use of a ford style solenoid allows it to act as a high amp switch between your key switch and the starter mounted solenoid.  This typically helps prevent hot start problems.

[leonardo]

I had thought about that but the run from the switch to the solenoid is only about 7'.  The wire that was being used was damaged at spots where it was secured to the block and at the drop area from the console.  I replaced the wire all the way including the safety switch at the transmission. Seems to be working.  About the impeller....I had that happen once in my life and learned the lesson well.  West Marine only had one in stock and it's so easy to replace, I'll keep a spare.  I regrouped all the wiring into 4 harnesses, one for each system and spiral wrapped, making repairs and replacements as needed.  Looks neat and easy to troubleshoot.  Soon as I get that water tank setup I'll run it again.  It's just an hour of ground running before it's in the water.  I want a good hour because to get to my home on the Bay I have to go about 13 miles open water.  I'm also installing an outboard drop bracket and putting on a Honda 7.5 hp motor for emergency use until everything is proven out.  It beats paddling. Plus I have the bracket and motor just sitting in the shop.  I'm going to setup a blog with photos this week.  I still need to change the fuel filter and flush the tanks.  What is the average fuel burn on the 240 anyway?

[GoneFission]

What is the average fuel burn on the 240 anyway?

How fast ya wanna go?   :twisted:   Here are some numbers from another 350/5.7 powered 25 foot deep-V center console I ran a while back:
1000rpm-1.9gph
1500 - 3.7
2000 - 5.6
2500 - 7.5
3000 - 10
3250 - 11.4
3500 - 12.3
4000 - 18.5
4250 - 21.3
4500 - 24.0

You can tell where the back 2 barrels opened on the carb!  This boat ran really well at 3250RPMs and about 25MPH.

[leonardo]

The previous owner told me he always tried to run only the front two and was careful about "opening it up".  I'd like to see what type of speed/fuel burn I can get on just the primaries and if that will get me to/from the island in 30-40 minutes that will be fine.  I need the boat mostly to haul materials for rebuilding my 1880's home.  Using the ferry can be costly.  I have to add about $1 for each handled item, 2x4's, drywall, buckets of dw mud, etc.  I go every week for 2 days and on the last trip 15, 2x4's that cost me $34 cost another $15 on the ferry plus I have to come and go on their schedule 12:30pm and 4pm.  No early morning run to the island so I loose 1/2 day work each time I go and more when I return at $20 a trip!  I have a slip on the island and a discounted one on the mainland and another plus other people are willing to share expenses to come and go on my boat only because of the schedule and high costs.  Only one ferry services except for the school boat.  You can see my project on the island at www.watermansovernight.com and just link to the blog.  Thanks for all the help.....L