1989 222 ccp fuel tank replacement

[LittleTunny]

I have got 2 quotes so far. One is from the original Fuel Tank manufacturer. Florida Marine Tanks model # FMT AQS 85A they still have all the original specs. They came in at $900, and probably $100 to ship. I also tried a fabricator in Bristol, Rhode Island, Luthers Welding, they have been supplying Fuel Tanks for local boat yards on Cape Cod and the Islands. They sayed they just made one not too long ago. They came in at $800, and I could pick it up. I would bring them the old tank so that there is no misunderstanding about size and configuration. The way the Fuel Tank fit in the Fuel Tank Hold it was very snug and has to fit properly. Maybe a good argument to stick with the original manufacturer and pay for the peace of mind. But I am open to any ideas, I have the whole winter to get it done. I really appreaciate having access to a web site info source such as this to get information and ideas.  Thank You for all the help Classic Aquasport.  Capt. John

[RickK]

For $200 bucks I think I would go with the local guy as long as he has some history.  Ask to see some of his other tanks, ask how he constructs them (baffles and such) - if you give him the old he can make it identical.  $200 is a lot of gas - not a fill up for my 230 but about half anyway.

[LittleTunny]

Hi All; I'm back and the new tanks here. Can't wait to put it in. Just to check I made a template of the profile of it to see if there will be any bedding issues. The shape is true on either end but slightly diffreent in the middle. I read on a post that someone used some foam on the bottom of the tank so it will conform. I am wondering what tpye of foam? It must have to be a spray expanding Closed Cell type foam. And also won't it glue the tank in place? How will ever get the tank out if I need to again? I am thinking of oiling the tank and the hold before spraying the foam so it won't stick to either surface. Or should I just skip this phase and just drop the tank in. I am afraid that the fiberglass tank hold will crack and break if I don't distribute the wieght and pressure of the tank evenly. One more though. Do I need to fill the tank ASAP before the foam cures, so it cures under pressure. Maybe I am thinking way too much about this. I just want to do it right the first time and not ruin the boat for the future. I would apperacite any input.     Thanks; Capt. John

[Bushleaguer]

Please don't foam it in.  You'll be doing this all over again in 5 years.  Check over on Mako.com- half of their forum traffic is people replacing aluminum fuel tanks that were foamed in place and leak due to crevice corrosion.


http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm

I followed this procedure when I did mine and it is holding up just fine.

[GoneFission]

I would have to weigh in a little differently - I would powercoat the tank, and foam it in, except on the bottom.  No pads, no strips, just leave the bottom clean to allow a good drain.  Foam the sides, front, and back.  The foam will give great structural support and leaving the bottom open will take care of the most likely corrosion problem. Yes, the foam will glue the tank to the well and that is a good thing.  Make sure the foam expands up over the edges of the tank, so any moisture from condensation is on the tank, not in foam crevices.  Based on what I have seen, the powder coat will protect the tank for - just a guess here - about 50 years.

My $0.02.

[LittleTunny]

Oh Boy! It's good to get input. I have been away dog sitting for a few days. OK, this what the tank fabricator told me. He has been advising all his customers to not let the aluminum come in direct contact with anything where water will act as a catalist. He recomended that I 5200 strips of 1/4 inch Lexan (Plexiglass) onto the tank where the stainless straps are so the dissimilar materials will not react. He also said it would be a good idea to do the same on the bottom and sides to keep it above the fiberglass. But to leave space between the strips for drainage. This made a lot of sense to me. He showed me an old tank where someone 5200 1/4 inch plywood strips and didn't work because the wood absorbed water and started to cause problems. Use Plastic. I asked if I could protect the tank by painting it? He said yes, if you can get the right paint (industrial coating). We concluded that auotmotive undercoating would be an inexpensive acceptable alternative. I would love to power coat the tank but don't have access to that technology on Martha's Vineyard. My biggest concern is that the well is uneven and irregular in some places and that pressure points will cause the thin fiberglass to crack and break. 85 gallons of fuel is a lot of weight. But the old tank didn't cause any damage at these pressure points. I do not want to use foam of any type in any amount on the bottom. I figure I will try to shim the best I can with different thicknesses of Lexan where needed. Maybe I am over thinking this whole thing.  

[Capt. Bob]

Maybe I am over thinking this whole thing.  

Yes and no.

My colleague Capt. John can make a great argument for powder coating and others will point to the virtue of coal tar but one thing stand on its own.
Aluminum oxidizes and forms a coating on the surface that resists corrosion as well as anything. Better yet, it requires no pre-treatment for adhesion.

The key is to keep the surface dry. It is TRAPPED moisture that causes the tank to corrode/pit. Just look at every tank removed and 90+% is as good as the day it went in. It's the areas where it has been allowed to remain wet that fail.

Keep it dry, anyway you can and you lengthen the life of the tank. Its that simple.
Doing it is the hard part.

Good luck.

[LittleTunny]

Thank you Capt. Bob.  Your right. The reason I had to replace the tank was due to one of the old copper pick ups failed and dropped to the bottom of the tank and caused an electrolysis. The outside was in fairly good condition. Just a small area of concern where the foam tape under the stainless strap on the bottom was wet for some time. My biggest worry is the uneven fiberglass tank well and how to cerate even weight distribution of the tank onto (what I think is) the fragile well. I don't dare step into the tank well for fear I will crack and break it. Not that I should step into it. The tank well is stable and strong but flexable when pressure is applied. Kind of like the new cars of today. I would never think of sitting on the hood, like we used to do at a drive in movie. I don't want to cause any structural damage after the job is done and I am in rough seas with a full tank due to excessive pressure on a small point. This is my main concern over anything at this point before reinstallation.

[GoneFission]

Ditto on preventing moisture, but it is a boat - Aquasport's original idea was to seal the tank area completely - that's why there is no drain hole in that tank tub.  However, condensation and an itty-bitty break in the tank cover caulk and now you got moisture.  As you have been advised, keep anything that adsorbs moisture away from the tank, especially on the bottom.  However, you may be "overthinking" this - I kinda felt that way on my tank replacement - because the first tank was not painted/coated, and it had the foam pads under it that absorbed water - yet it lasted almost 30 years before leaking!  I guess a tank replacement every 30 years isn't such a big deal...  But DO drill a small drain hole in the rear center of the tank tub so whatever water/moisture that gets in there can drain.  You could even put a drain plug there if you wanted and be able to open/close from the access port in the center of the spashwell over the bilge pump.    

BTW- You might check MV Machine there at Martha's Vineyard out if you want to powder coat:
http://www.mvmachine.com/  

Good luck - see ya on the water!

[LittleTunny]

Thanks Capt. John; My boat came with 5 drain holes from the factory.



Do you think it is absolutely necessary to do a glass repair between the strap and the hole? I think they may have done this at the factory to install the stainless strap.

EDIT by Admin:You were very close to having the IMG codes right.  When you copy the IMG codes from photobucket, you DON'T need to click the IMG button here when adding the code to your post, what you copied from photobucket has everything you need in it already.  I also deleted the extra posts after this - sorry Bob.