Osprey transom

[sams]

I have an 85 Osprey 200 that was re configured as a closed transom with a bracket.  Last weekend I realized that there as some serious delamination happening int he transom and it woudl ned to be reuilt.  I know thatthis closed transom is pretty unique, however, if someone has doen a similiar rebuild of a conventional notched transom I woudl love to see the pictures so I know what I am getting into.

Sam

[LilRichard]

Welcome Sam.

Take a look under my project "1971 Flatback" (or any of the similar 222 projects) and you will see very detailed, step by step photos of how it is done.  The only difference will be that you are not putting a cap on yours, instead you will simply cut the notch in it and be through.  It's not a terribly tough project- study up and you should be able to complete it with a little patience.

[Mike Answeeney]

Hey Sam, check this out, basic notched transom repair  using a "poured" technique.

http://transomrepair.com/zk/transom.shtml

[LilRichard]

I imagine the pourable stuff is all good if you plan on removing the inner skin and getting all the wood out, then going back and building it back like your hull was done Mike.  

I am still a little hesitant about pouring a transom from the top because you are most likely not going to get all the wood out, even with the "chainsaw method", and then you may also get pockets of air.  Not to mention that he currently has an enclosed transom, so he needs to do some pretty heavy work on it to get to a notched transom, assuming that's the route he goes.  

Last, if he has delam issues, he most likely needs to cut the transom back to nothing and start from a fresh skin...

[sams]

I plan on staying full transom.  I am thinking I will cut outnthe inner skin, remove the old wood, replace with new wood or Coosa board (haven't decided yet) and skin over the inside, re-mount bracket, go fishing.

I will use vinylester resin and serious amounts of cloth.  I will also probably run some knees down to teh stringer as the transom is currently a free span with no lateral support to offset the overhung load of the engine on a bracket.

Sam

[LilRichard]

Good plan.  Post with questions (and LOTS of pics) as you go about it...

[Shine]

 I am thinking I will cut outnthe inner skin, remove the old wood, replace with new wood or Coosa board (haven't decided yet) and skin over the inside, re-mount bracket, go fishing.
Sam

This is not a good idea, structurally.  When you remove the inside skin, re-core, then put in the new inside skin - you take the new inside skin back up  the bottom and sides, with multiple over laps which are staggered.  So the new skin has A Lot of bonding area to the hull.

If you cut out the outside skin, then how to you make the new outside skin part of the boat     the only way is to bevel back the sides and bottom, then take the new outside skin and wrap it up and around, then fair the whole mess back so that the boat looks decent (this means you will have to fiberglass upside down - which is impossible without vacuum bagging)

One of the nice things about going from the inside is that all those layers of overlap are never seen - so you do not have to fair them in.

If you proceed with the repair as you describe it "may" not break - but structurally its a much weaker way of doing it

I dont mean to scare you but, i just want you to be aware  :)

[LilRichard]

Shine, not trying to be sarcastic, but didn't he say he was going from the inside?  Or are you suggesting that is a bad idea?

[Shine]

    too much coffee, not enough sleep  

I though I read "cut out outside skin".  Im Sorry  

[Shine]

I am thinking I will cut outnthe inner skin, remove the old wood, replace with new wood or Coosa board (haven't decided yet) and skin over the inside, re-mount bracket, go fishing.

I was going fast and read "outnthe inner skin" as "outerskin"  

[LilRichard]

I kinda thought you may have misread that, but did not want to be presumptuous.  It's all good!

 

[sams]

My bad typing could be the cause of the problem (not the transom).  I have no need to redo pretty work.  I can build plenty strong, however, finish work is not my cup of tea.  I will also cut a small section of deck that will allow for the construction of two knees that will carry from the transom to the stringers.  This shoudl greatly increase the lateral strength of the assembly.

Thanks for the advise.

Sam

[LilRichard]

Sam- where you at?

[sams]

I'm up here in Swampscott, MA (just North of Boston).

Its nice to have an offseason where you can work on things.  Now I just need a heated warehouse so glass will dry.

Sam