It's not rocket science. Basically, take the nut off the wheel, pull, unscrew helm from console, unscew cable from helm (temporarily re-attach wheel to facilitate disengaging the cable), disconnect at the motor. The worst part is wrestling the cable into the side of the helm. When I did it last time, I didn't dismount the helm first, which was stupid of me. Feeding the cable into the helm would be easier if the helm was moveable. Especially challenging was starting the threads on that nut for the cable jacket. Of course, then you'd have to wrestle the helm into place once the cable was hitched up, but I think that would be better than the alternative. Also, I would advise pulling the old stuff out first, so you can measure how long the cable is instead of guessing. You're going to need a socket to fit the wheel nut, an open end wrench to fit the cable jacket nut and, whatever size wrenches are the motor side. You can use an adjustable wrench, but it would really suck to round off that jacket nut. On my 22.2 the in deck wiring channel made swap out relatively painless. This might also be a good time to swap out throttle cables. On a scale of 1-10, 10 being more difficult, I rate this job a 4.
I'm switching from a Safe-T to hydraulic, but not by choice. I've reached the point where I've got too much HP for cable. I have run a few boats with NFB and, it's pretty nice. It was standard on Grady-White up to 24'. I do generally prefer cable because I believe it's more responsive. If you think your steering system is worn out, then absolutely change it.
