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Author Topic: gel gun?  (Read 3540 times)

April 20, 2005, 09:49:46 AM
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gofish

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gel gun?
« on: April 20, 2005, 09:49:46 AM »
Has anyone used a ES100 gel coat gun. I believe there is no need to thin and what is the tip size recommended.

April 20, 2005, 11:35:26 AM
Reply #1

Wilson

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« Reply #1 on: April 20, 2005, 11:35:26 AM »
I have a gel gun, but I'm not sure of the model #.  It shoots with a lot of orange peel, but no need to thin.  I think the usual tip # is 6, but practice with 5 and 7 too to see which works best on your gun.  

What are you trying to shoot?  These are best for molds and for a lot of sanding.
Wilson Ayala
Tampa, FL

April 20, 2005, 02:07:58 PM
Reply #2

gofish

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« Reply #2 on: April 20, 2005, 02:07:58 PM »
I'm going to spray from the rub rail up and the inside gunnel. I have the #6 tip but was thinking of going down to a #5 or 4 tip to reduce some orange peel. Also, do you think it would be better to shoot the non-skid with this gun or better to roll..

April 20, 2005, 02:27:39 PM
Reply #3

Wilson

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« Reply #3 on: April 20, 2005, 02:27:39 PM »
Your realize how much sanding that is going to be, don't you?  That's fine, if you don't mind.  Make sure that you practice/experiment, and use patch/sanding aid mixed with the gelcoat.

Have you thought about Duratec High Gloss Addative?  It is awesome, but expensive.  You mix it with the gelcoat, thin and shoot it from a regular gun.  You can, then walk away.

What shape it the deck in?  do you need to do a lot of fairing, or just pretty it up?

As for the non-skid.  I am not sure if the non-skid will stay consistantly mixed in the gun.  I don know that if you are rolling it on it will all sink to the bottom, so it is best to shake it on and roll over it.
Wilson Ayala
Tampa, FL

April 20, 2005, 02:43:24 PM
Reply #4

gofish

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« Reply #4 on: April 20, 2005, 02:43:24 PM »
Well I knew I would have to sand but now I may re-think using the gun. I've read about duratec but didn't know there was no post sanding required and haven't been able to find patch/aid.

The floor has been repaired in places and has been sanded done but will need alittle fairing, I was thinking of doing the rolling method adding cabosil to thicken and roll until it starts to kick and it leaves a pattern.

April 20, 2005, 03:47:51 PM
Reply #5

Wilson

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« Reply #5 on: April 20, 2005, 03:47:51 PM »
If you do a good job spraying you wouldn't really need to sand, especially on the topside, and ESPECIALLY where you are going to non-skid.

I have never heard of that method, but it sounds like it would work.  

I know yellowfin uses splatter orange peel for their non-skid on the decks, and so does the Predator.  Just another option.  It looks good.
Wilson Ayala
Tampa, FL

April 21, 2005, 05:51:41 AM
Reply #6

RickK

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« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2005, 05:51:41 AM »
For non-skid, I've done it twice on my floor.  I used the old fashion way and it works well - roll a base coat of gelcoat and let harden, outline nonskid area in 2 layers of tape (blue painters), roll more gelcoat down, sprinkle glass bead onto the wet gelcoat, wait until it "flashes" and pull off 1 layer of tape and then let everything harden.  Sweep all the loose glass bead away, recoat lightly with gelcoat, pull last layer of tape and you've got a finish that looks like it came from the factory.  (The "twice" I mentioned is because I didn't recoat "lightly" the first time and the non-skid was gone  :oops: )  Should last forever now.  The tape is for "water run" stripes (smooth gelcoat between non skid areas) around edges and if you want to divide the areas - looks nice and allows you to work small areas at a time.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

April 21, 2005, 08:34:54 AM
Reply #7

gofish

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« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2005, 08:34:54 AM »
Rick, I like your non skid directions, but, for the glass beads, are you using Microballons or scotchlite Glass Bubbles that you would use with a filler. How much would be needed and did you apply it by hand.

Correct be if I'm wrong. I could spray the whole inside of the boat (keeping it light were non-skid is going) tape off area to be non-skid, sand area and clean (using gel with wax). Roll area with no wax or additives and apply glass beads and let harden, remove any loose beads and spray light coat of gel with wax and be done. Removing tape befor if kicks as directed.

April 21, 2005, 08:57:23 PM
Reply #8

RickK

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« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2005, 08:57:23 PM »
GoFish,
I don't have a clue what make the glass bead was.  I bought it at a local fiberglass place and it was in a generic tin can.  I put some in a 1pt  plastic cup (scooped it out of the gallon can) and put screen over the top with rubber band around screen to keep on.  You use it like a salt shaker.  I know they make different size glass bead because I had to get some more and I mixed it together (not well enough) and had two different sizes in one area. :roll:   The bigger stuff (2nd batch) was actually better for non-skid. (Only I notice the difference in that area.)  For my 170, a couple pounds (1/2-3/4 gallon) is way more than I needed (I did entire deck area), because only so much sticks and the rest is swept back up and re-used.  I could buy it in 2 or 3 different size cans (you always buy the big one-right?).  I think I did the entire area using gel with wax.  If I remember right, the guy told me that unwaxed was for exterior.
I don't know about spraying.  I think you have the right idea though.
The key is the last coat - too thick and it's grinder time to start over (been there, done that)
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

April 22, 2005, 07:54:40 AM
Reply #9

DEFIANT

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« Reply #9 on: April 22, 2005, 07:54:40 AM »
Gofish,

I was studying the Interlux Paint site http://www.yachtpaint.com. It contains alot of good info. The FAQ section gives instructions on using their non skid compound #2398.

I hope you find this helpful!

April 23, 2005, 08:28:23 AM
Reply #10

RickK

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« Reply #10 on: April 23, 2005, 08:28:23 AM »
GoFish,
I don't think I was real clear in the previous posts in saying that you sprinkle the glass bead onto the wet gelcoat, covering the entire area evenly - not just a little here and there.  When you are done and have removed the tape and everything is cured, you have areas of "80 or 100 grit sandpaper" on the floor separated by water run stripes.  The roughness is softened by the last light coat of gelcoat.  I know I'd hate to fall down on it - tear you up. Then again, I know now I can't slip and fall down.
I watched a friend do his boat and he mixed sand (glass bead?) in paint and rolled it on and the result was a non-skid surface, just not as nice looking as how I did it - and not as non-skid.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

April 25, 2005, 08:45:42 AM
Reply #11

gofish

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« Reply #11 on: April 25, 2005, 08:45:42 AM »
Sounds great rick, just one question, what type of roller did you use and did you thin it any.

April 25, 2005, 09:02:52 PM
Reply #12

RickK

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« Reply #12 on: April 25, 2005, 09:02:52 PM »
GoFish,
I used a short nap roller (3/16"?) and didn't thin a thing.  I cut regular 9" rollers in half to use on a small roller handle, de-fuzzed the cut end, rolled whichever coat I was doing and then "wiped" them off the roller handle into the garbage using a rag before they hardened.  You get maybe 10 minutes of working time, so do small areas - you'll like the result.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

May 23, 2005, 04:39:38 PM
Reply #13

gofish

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« Reply #13 on: May 23, 2005, 04:39:38 PM »
Rick
I did your non skid and it came out GREAT, After all the research I did on non skid, That has to be the best way and easy.

May 25, 2005, 05:47:53 AM
Reply #14

RickK

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« Reply #14 on: May 25, 2005, 05:47:53 AM »
Quote from: "gofish"
Rick
I did your non skid and it came out GREAT, After all the research I did on non skid, That has to be the best way and easy.

Great!! Wasn't all that hard now was it - and the finish should last forever.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

 


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