Deck Repair

[Anonymous]

My 19'6 had a top on it at one time.  It was removed and the owner did not cover the holes in the deck.  I think it has caused rotting in the decking around the center console where the poles were at.  There a few soft spots as well.  I have a new console and plan on replacing the old one.  I was wondering how hard is it to repair the damaged areas? How hard is it to replace the entire deck area?  I was thinking of just pulling everything and starting from scratch.  The previous owner didn't take very good care of the boat.  I figure if I replace everything then its less to worry about later.  Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Going to take a few pics and send them in as I rebuild.

[Wilson]

If it is already soft around the console then it is probably wet through out most of the floor.  You will probably be better off replacing the whole thing.  Cut it out leaving a 1-2" rim around the outside and set the new floor right on that.  That is the easiest way.

[Anonymous]

What is the Cost Range on something like that?
Do you know of any manuals or guides for this type of task?

[RickK]

When cutting the existing floor out and leaving a rim, as Wilson advises, make sure that you don't have a forward storage compartment that you have to compensate for.  I cut out along the edge and cable trough but had to lay my flooring inside the rim because off the forward compartment and how the front wood panel fit. I screwed backer strips around the rim to join the new floor to the rim. This pic shows my floor and the forward compartment that I had to mate to.  This pic is not of the reconstruction but from when I ground down the floor to re-do the non-skid.  If you look close you can see the "rim" around the edge and trough.  One important (to me) thing I did was to double layer the wood around where the CC met the floor so I had double material to screw the CC down to the floor through.  In rough seas you only have the CC to hang on to and it can get loose quickly which will tear the screws out of the floor and ruin the floor AGAIN.
As far as cost, if you use 5/8" plywood, it's pretty cheap since it's your time.  I don't remember exactly but maybe a couple hundred.  2-3 sheets of wood (for my 170) and the fiberglass material.  Make sure you resin coat the wood, both sides and especially the edges before you put them in the boat.  If your stringers are shot/damaged then the price goes up because you'll spend more labor/material repairing them.
There are a lot of experienced floor "refurbers" here that can add to this thread.

[Wilson]

I used Coosa board for my floor and glassed aluminum plates under where the console and tower were to be.  That way we could tap into the plates when the time came.

[Bluesbrother]

Hi,
I redid my entire floor (still have to sand it down ) Be carefull not to just cut, because when you come across the middle you will cut the stringers. The guys are right however to do the whole floor, mine started as just a soft spot in the back. Besides it is actually more difficult I found to repair sots since it becomes harder to find strong backing. I used marine ply on mine. If you have any plans on putting a top back, put in the reinforcements now, I didn't have the plans, now I got a top and I have no idea yet how to anchor it properly.
Good luck.

[Grifter]

Thanks for the advice.  I figure to start sometime in july and hopefully be ready for the next season.  I don't think it will take that long but if I give myself that much time I won't fell rushed.  Be like Mr. Scott when Captain Kirk asks "How long will it take to fix?" And he says a couple of days.  Few hours later he fixes.  The Captain says he is a Miracle worker.

[Grifter]

About how much does a complete top run for?   Poles, Hardware, and top

[Bluesbrother]

Quite honestly, in the US I have no idea. I am in Aruba and here you need to be very lucky to run into one. I think they should be arround $1000-1500 depending on size etc. Mine is used, it would be unthinkable to ship one done from US, would be more expensive than the boat...

[Tim/GA]

If you are not going to lay the floor on top of the couple inch "rim" left from cutting out the floor, you might want to make the cut at an angle.  If you then cut the new floor with the edge at the opposite angle it will help to support the edge rather than having to put in backing.  This is the best way to cut out a soft spot and replace it as well.

[RickK]

I used Coosa board for my floor and glassed aluminum plates under where the console and tower were to be.  That way we could tap into the plates when the time came.

I don't know anything about the new composite "boards" but the aluminum plates were a good idea  :)

[RickK]

I used marine ply on mine. If you have any plans on putting a top back, put in the reinforcements now, I didn't have the plans, now I got a top and I have no idea yet how to anchor it properly.

Hey Blues, did you do the non-skid on your floor yet?
If not, you can rough up the floor and glass in another layer of the plywood where you will mount the top's anchor points. Then grind it a little to remove the rough of the glass and then gelcoat/glass bead over the entire floor.  If you look at the extra layer of the wood around where the CC goes in the link I posted a few replys up this page, you'll see that's what I did.  Just make sure you rough it up good so the glass and resin will have a good bonding spot.

[Anonymous]

Thanks Rick, Actually I didn't do the anti slip yet so this sounds like a plan. I have four legs for the TTop they are 4 by 3 inch, how big do you figure the pieces of ply should be? I will also glass in the CC rim, I didn't like the teak rim in the first place.

[RickK]

I think I would make them the size of the leg pads and cut the wood at a 45 degree so that the edge is 45 degrees away from the top (does this makes sense?) all the way around (could also use 22-1/2 degrees?).  Now you have a piece of wood 4x3 at the top and  approx 4-1/2 x 5-1/2 at the bottom.  This will give you more support area, make glassing it in easier (no abrupt edge) and also will not be a toe stubber (no abrupt edge).