1977 222 rebuild

[penny]

Back up Makita did the job. No Harbor Freight here in the Keys.  Interesting a cheapo held up through a big project.  Now I've got to sort out how to cut back the inner skin of transom up under the aft portion of the cap.  My cap is in perfect shape and I'm wondering whether I can unbolt it part way forward and lift it far enough to work or just to cut it since I'll eventually have full height transom & wide cap across stern anyway.  I'll have to dig through some threads and see what others did.

[Mad Dog]

Penny,

Several weeks ago I cut the cap loose from my AS.  First, Remove the cord from the rub rail then, unscrew the rub rail itself.  After those 100 screws there are another 100  :cry: holding the cap on.  Sounds easy but tedious but it is not easy.  I only had my 11 year old daughter to help.  She did well but had limitations.  About half the screws were seized up and had to be cut off.  Not the bolt cutters.




With all the screws out the cap lifts right off.   Be sure to brace it up because it will crack.

Yesterday I got around to cutting the inner skin loose.  The two parts are glued only along the top edge.  I used an old wood chissel and a wedge and worked my way around.  The hardest area is at the bow where the angle change and the glue found more area to connect.  It took about two hours working alone.  Now I just have to figure out to lift the whole thing out.

[penny]

My thoughts are I don't need to take the cap all the way off, as I just need to access the top of the transom area in the aft foot or foot and a half.  Given that I'll be fitting a transom cap of 12-18 inches, cutting out that corner of existing cap is workable.  I just was hesitant to butcher something that was in nice shape it it wasn't necessary. Do you think if I undid a few feet of hull to cap bolts I would be able to spring the aft sectin upwards for enough access to top of transom? As you lifted yours was it fairly flexible?

Regarding the inner liner along hull sides, mine is in excellent shape.  I'm just thinking that it will need to be cut back in order to laminate new transom to hull sides not the spiffy liner in the aft sections.

[Mad Dog]

Penney,

I see what you are saying now.  I think you can cut loose the the cap from the transom forward and prop it up enough to make your repairs.  The plywood backer under my cap was 3/8" if not 1/4" (not made to use as a seating option).  How far you have to loosen it depends on how high you want to raise it.  Just do a few feet on each side at a time and see how it goes.  Try not to put too much pressure at the point where it is still screwed down.

I sam a one rebuild photo gallery where they kept the whole cap and added a transom cap.  The way it was finished off it look very nice.  One modification to consider is moving the rope tube forward and attaching the cleat to the forward bulkhead instead of the transom.

Keep  us posted.

[penny]

I'll have to look for that post where a transom cap was filled in without removing gunnel cap section. If anybody knows which one that is, lemme know.  I took a few of the screws and bolts out of both sides but with the coring as well as the right angle formed by horizontal 'top' of cap to vertical 'face' it doesn't seem to have much flex.  I'm still mulling that over a bit, plenty I can pick away at meanwhile.
 I was also looking for a thread w/pics where someone had a pro build a composite bracket and platform that was built through the transom in order to tie it into the stringers.

[LilRichard]

I was also looking for a thread w/pics where someone had a pro build a composite bracket and platform that was built through the transom in order to tie it into the stringers.

That is one thing I have never seen...

[Mad Dog]

I was also looking for a thread w/pics where someone had a pro build a composite bracket and platform that was built through the transom in order to tie it into the stringers.

That is one thing I have never seen...

Neither have I.  I have several links to bracket builders but they are all bolt on.

One way to address this issue of tying the bracket to the stringers is to build the transom braces so that the bracket bolts into the braces.  Of course I am no engineer so how that happens I don't know.  However, if the AS was designed to mount the engine to the transom without braces then adding braces to offset the leverage caused by the bracket should equalize the stress on the transom.  That's what Joel did with the rebuild over at BBC.  I would trust their judgement.

[penny]

It may not have been an CA thread.  The pics I remember showed them building a box that they had fastened to the stringers, perhaps only to fit the flotation part of the bracket just right.  They may have then trimmed it out when the transom went in and bracket was glassed to transom  I'll find it one of these days.  I'm not that skilled by any stretch but I would like to find it anyway 'cause it was interesting.  Pics were shot inside a shop.

[slippery73]

Heres the boat you are looking for with the integrated platform.

http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... &ppuser=57

[penny]

Thanks for that, started to think I was hallucinating.