Number one priority for potential buyers...make sure the seller has clean title!!! If not, be prepared for a potential legal roller coaster. Number two priority, if possible, make sure someone you trust at least gets to see the boat personally to make sure the ad isn't a scam (ask Scott, aka Gran398).
That said, here are some recommended inspection steps for buying boats/engines/trailers:
Boat:
1) Transom - use the lower unit of the engine like a lever and try to alternately lift and press down on the engine using as much pressure as you can manage (but be careful of putting so much weight on the lower unit that it lifts the nose of the trailer). If the transom is weak, you will see it flex noticeably. As an additional check, bring a hard rubber mallet with you and use it to tap on the transom. The starboard and port corners are likely to be the hardest and in the best condition, while the area around the bilge drain at the bottom or the seam underneath the mounting bracket are likely to be the worst. Tap and listen, starting from the corners and working towards the plug. If the majority of the transom sounds like the corners, you're probably good. If it all sounds different and/or similar to the drain plug area, the transom may be ready for replacement.
2) Deck - spongy/soft decks are pretty obvious and self explanatory. Walk around on your heels or tippy toes and see if you can feel the deck flex. If it flexes, taking into account the size of the spongy area, see if you can find out where the water and associated rot may have started (i.e old screw holes, loose hardware, cracks, etc.) to determine if it's minor and repairable (via epoxy deck injection) or needs complete replacement.
3) Fuel tank - open every deck plate or access hatch to get as much of a view of the tank as possible. Aluminum tanks should have no visible evidence of corrosion, especially around the sending unit or the fittings for the fill, feed, and vent hoses. Pay attention to any visible contact points with tiedown straps as well. Any corrosion is bad news. Plastic tanks don't really have this problem. Secondarily, if the tank DOES look like it could be bad, see if there is a properly sized access panel in the deck (fastened with screws and caulk) generally located under the console and helm area so you know if a tank replacement is even feasible without major fiberglass work. Replacement aluminum tanks for these boats typically go between $500 and $1000 not including removal and installation labor. Check also any fuel filters, bowls, or water separators. You don’t want to see much in the way of grit, or water, and sugary looking particles are corrosion from the inside of the tank = BAD! Smell or presence of fuel in the bilge also = BAD!
4) Fiberglass and finishings - inspect the deck, hull, and cap for obvious signs of repair or repainting. chips, cracks, blisters, brushmarks can all be signs of a prior repair which may, or most often may not, have been done properly. Also inspect the keel area for gouges or cracks from groundings, rocks, beaching, or other abuse that could have damaged the overall integrity of the hull or potentially delaminated stringers.
5) Hardware - chrome plated and SS hardware these days is SERIOUSLY expensive. Pieces which
need replacement can and should be considered during pricing.
6) electrical system – test every component for proper function, especially bilge pump, fuel gauge, tachometer, nav lights, voltage gauge, and vhf. Check for waterproof/adhesive-lined vs standard connectors. Unsealed connectors will eventually fail in the marine environment; usually sooner than later.
Engine:
1) Compression - Number one priority for an engine you intend to run is a compression check. In general, all cylinders should register over 100 psi and readings should be within 10% of each other. Either buy or borrow a gauge and take it with you no matter what.
2) Maintenance - ask the seller for documentation of impeller and gearcase lube replacement or a service history. Without proof of recent service, it's often the first thing you must do as a new engine owner.
3) electrical wires and fuel hoses - Inspect ALL the visible wires and hoses for cracks in the insulation. Cracks lead to shorts and green disease which can be extremely time consuming to trace and often require specialists to repair.
4) propeller and skeg damage – look for nicks, chips, dents, or cracks in both which might indicate damage to the internal gearing. New propellers are not very cheap and generally run anywhere between $100 and $250. Lower unit/gearcase repair usually requires specialty tools and associated professional service = $$!
5) fluids, grease – check the lower cowl, carbs, tilt and trim unit, and gearcase for obvious signs of leaking grease or oils. (note, a sludgy oil coming out from underneath the propeller is generally just unburned fuel and not cause for significant alarm). Tilt and trim cylinders often leak at the O-ring seals around each ram and can be pretty darn difficult to replace by yourself, and not cheap to replace professionally. Leaking carb gaskets or other fuel related leaks are not usually expensive fixes but can be a pain.
6)If you get to run the engine, make sure the gearcase doesn’t grind excessively when shifting into forward and reverse (note: don’t ease the shifter slowly into gear as that often results in grinding. Proper shifting procedure is firm but deliberate when engaging forward or reverse gears). Gears which grind when shifting properly need to be replaced and cost $$!
7)overheating - Look for signs of severe overheating which may have melted electrical wire insulation. Overheating can also show as discoloration or peeling of paint in the area where the cylinder heads are mounted to the block. Warping of numerous parts can result from overheating and qualifies as severe, even catastrophic damage.
Trailer:
1)rust and corrosion – deteriorated frame, bunk supports, axles, springs, hubs and tongue all should be evaluated. Rust typically starts on the bottom so make sure to get on your hands and knees. Surface rust can be treated fairly effectively. Flake rust is generally systemic and indicates severely compromised integrity and a very short remaining lifespan. Look carefully around all hardware attachment points. Roller trailers require quite a bit of maintenance b/c the rollers can freeze. As such, bunk trailers are a MUCH better option.
2) tires – inspect tires for cracking in sidewalls and between tread. Also look for unevenly worn tread which might indicate improper alignment and urgent repair/tire replacement. New tires for smaller trailers are generally in the $75 range while larger tires for bigger multi-axle trailers average around $100 each.
3) electrical – hook up the trailer to see if the lights work. IF not, check for solid ground (white wire) which is the number one reason for light failure. Electrical overhaul is manageable by most boat owners but can be a tedious chore. Material costs average between $50-$100 (or more) depending on the details of the lighting system.
4)winch – look for rusted cable or dry-rotted strap. Snapping one while loading is NOT fun!
5)trailer size – compare trailer size to boat size. Typical single axle trailers have around 3500# capacity and should only be used for vessels under 20’. Larger boats should have two axles or more, and most states require brakes by law if the trailer and boat are heavier than 3500#. Depending on your region (and size of the trailer), strong, functional galvanized trailers can be found in the neighborhood of $1000 while similar condition aluminum trailers usually bring upwards of $1500 used.
6)bearings – bring a hammer and rag to tap off the bearing covers and take a look at the grease inside. Milky watery grease indicates leaking seals on the inside of the hub or a malfunctioning bearing cover. Rust can develop on the bearings almost IMMEDIATELY once water gets into the hub. Trust me…you do NOT want a trailer hub exploding on the highway if you can avoid it. A flat tire is NOTHING compared to a fried set of bearings/blown hub.
Gentlemen....please add your own experiences/recommendations. <!-- s:idea: -->
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