Alex's 1972 196 Project

[Ayc388]

Hi Everybody!

Getting started with my 1972 196.

I thought everything seemed fine with the hull as someone has already done the floor and replaced the tank.
Even transom seems ok - passed the "200# guy with a beer jumping on the anti-cavitation plate test".

I re-created all of the original wood accent pieces out of various types of wood (because I like that sort of thing), and when I went to fit up the new wooden console trim I realized that the floor was VERY uneven.

I looked around for a second reason to cut up the floor and found one - rot developing where the floor meets the scupper well.

After cutting up most of the floor I have determined that the foam in the stringers is either missing or soaked. I will open up stringers, replace foam, and seal em back up.

Please note from the pictures that I have two layers of floor - original and recently-ish replaced floor.

Here is my plan, please let me know what you think:

1. I even the bad part of floor that caused me to cut it up in the first place, and cut all the way around leaving 1.5" or so of a lip around the hull
2. I build up the stringers and bulkheads with 2x thicknesses of marine plywood
3. Between the raised stringers and the outside "lip" I now have an even base to attach my floor

I believe a floor that is sitting 1.5" higher than factory is ok, no?

[Ayc388]

I've got another question for you guys:

The tank on this boat (quite dirty still in the picture) is plastic, so definitely replaced. I'm not sure how old it is as the inspection port was very leaky and the thing got pretty nasty.

Part of my plan is to install my flooring such that there is still a hatch (more like a semi-permanent section of floor) so that the tank could be accessed without tearing up the whole floor.

Is a plastic tank likely fine forever? Is it worth me going through the effort to make a removableish section of floor? Should I just buy a new tank and cover it completely? Please let me know what you fellas think.

Alex

[RickK]

The plastic tank should last a long time and since it's had fuel in it, it has already grown the 1-2% everywhere. I think I would pop it out, pressure wash it, clean up the coffin it is sitting in and then decide. I'm not fond of the fuel line going through the bilge, especially since there is a big pipe running to the aft.
I would rethink the routing of controls, fuel and electrical to the aft - maybe split the load in the conduits - there is more cables than I realized since I moved batteries to the console. I ran heavy 2/0 cable from the console to a heavy terminal block in the aft and then ran 4 ga cable from there to the engine starter/ground. This in essence made it "feel" like the batteries were in the aft because there was no loss or very little from the heavy cables. I also have hydraulic steering and my pump was also moved to the console, so 2 hoses for that.
So thinking through all the stuff you want for this boat and how to route it needs to be examined. Also, it is probably a good time to examine the age of the fill/vent hose to the tank.

Keep the questions coming - we're here for you.

Some examples from my rebuild:




I built custom cabinets in the corners of my boat (since it had none) to come up above deck with everything.

[Ayc388]

Thanks for the tips, Rick. That looks really clean.

I dig the cabinets. I am thinking about closing the transom and adding a bracket eventually, so I might just have a boot coming out of the corner of the deck for rigging at first.

Is that a 55 gallon Moeller tank that you used?

[RickK]

27gal.

[Ayc388]

Hi all. As I progress through the next phase of my rebuild I will wind up in one of two situations:

1. I need to cut open my stringers from the top (leaving 3/4" or so for boards to sit on), remlve all foam, and refoam. Then add pvc trim boards spacers to raise deck.

2. Foam is ok, I don't have to cut them open, but still have to glass the pvc spacers on.

In either case I was hoping to do 2x layers of 1708 with polyester laminating resin (with some pva after) to reseal stringers and attach spacers.

Is this a situation that would benefit from the improved structural strength characteristics of epoxy or do you think polyester will suffice?

Thank you in advance!

Alex

[RickK]

I think you should keep all of your questions in your main rebuild topic - it will make it easier to follow what you are doing. I will merge your posts soon.

Rule of thumb is use epoxy as structural resin. Polyester doesn't have the secondary bond strength that epoxy does.
As for cloth when using epoxy, 1708 is a cloth with 3oz chopped glass (CSM) sewn onto one side. Epoxy doesn't melt the binders in CSM - polyester does. It builds some bulk, but not so much strength using epoxy. So you could use DB 1708, it that doesn't have the CSM on it, when using epoxy unless you want more bulk.

[Ayc388]

Pulled my gas tank, looks ok. Was surprised how full it was... I never smelled any gas pulling up the floor so i suppose it doesn't leak!

I did inspect my stringers however and found that the wood inside is totally soaked. I determined this by drilling a small hole on the lower inside part of the starboard stringer. There is a void on the port side stringer that is missing foam as well as wood... Was wood only used on parts of the stringers?

Tomorrow i will do the rest of the demo and will start cleaning.  Very curious about the plywood inside of ome stringer.

[Ayc388]

Digging into my stringers today. There is damp foam at the bottom but only about 1/4" of it is getting wet. Will that moisture dissipate over time if I seal up the deck or should I still get and replace all of the foam?

[RickK]

That's your choice. If you feel everything is dry and you can make sure any water in the bilge won't wick up into the foam, I'd leave everything alone. If it ain't broke....

[John G]

Digging into my stringers today. There is damp foam at the bottom but only about 1/4" of it is getting wet. Will that moisture dissipate over time if I seal up the deck or should I still get and replace all of the foam?

My stringers were dry at the top but the bottom 1/4" was wet, but the closer to the stern I got the more wet it was.  Keep in mind that inside those stringers (in my '73 anyway) there is a half-circle dome looking thing of fiberglass on the hull with balsacore or some type of cardboard inside it.  I believe it was to stiffen the hull.  When I dug out my foam I kept seeing water leaking from it, so I cut it open and whatever was inside was basically mush.  I cut it all out and put down a layer of 1708 before closing it all up.

If you trap water in and then let it freeze over winter, more problems will arise.

[Ayc388]

Good feedback John. Fortunately, mice relocated most/all of the foam towards the stern so I may not have much of an issue. I will definitely investigate per your advice.

Alex