wiring question

[rburlington]

I am trying to make sense out of the wiring in my 24'6" 1981 Aquasport Express Fisherman.  It was refitted at some point in the past with 1986 Yamaha 220 Hp V6 Special that has very low hours and is still in excellent condition.

In addition to other wiring coming from the engine to the console, there is a 10 wire bundle.  In that bundle there is one black wire and one yellow wire.  The black is probably a negative return wire and the yellow is probably a positive feed wire.  Each of these two wires goes to all the engine related instruments (sometimes two or three times connecting to different points when the instrument has lights).  There are no fuses as far as I can tell, and these wires do not run through the fuse box.

The route from either the black wire or the yellow wire to things like the hour meter, volt meter, oil injection gauge, tachometer, trim meter, etc. is nothing like clear.  It is pretty much like a vine with a lot of junctions and branches where wires have been tied together, but all black wires can be traced back to the one in the 10 wire bundle as can all the yellow ones to the yellow from the 10 wire bundle.

Here are my questions:

1.  Should these be fused?
2.  Or, as the system works, should I just leave it like it is, apparently unfused and vine-like.
3.  Or, can the black from the 10 wire bundle be tied to a negative bus bar and the yellow, likewise, tied to a positive bus bar and then make straight connections from the instruments to those bus bars?

What makes the best sense here?

Thanks,
Robert Gary Burlington

[RickK]

Robert, are the guages on a panel that was attached to the console?  If so, the wiring was probably done prefab on a bench and then the panel was attached to the console, at which time the yellow and black wires from the bundle were attached to one contact point.  The bundle may already have fusible links on the wires that need them.
1. Is everything working ok? You know the old saying, "if it ain't broke..."
2. You could put buss bars in, disconnect all the guages , attach the yellow wire to one and the black to another and wire it the way you desire to clean it up.  But then again - refer to #1.
3. Fusing?  I'm not sure the guages need to be fused.  The bundle may already have fusible links on the wires that need them. I'll be checking out my 230 this weekend (hopefully I'll be able to bring her home), she has a factory Yamaha 250 on her.  I can give you more feedback then.
I'm a firm believer in #1  
Rick

[rburlington]

Rick,

Yes, the wires are attached to gauges and instruments that appear to be original.  On the other hand, it is pretty clear when you see the whole picture that these, along with most others, were cut and sections of different colored wires placed between them and their final connections to wires emerging from the 10 wire bundle and at least two other bundles coming from the engine.  

I traced all of these connections with great care, so I know what is going to what in spite of a jungle-like intertwining set of vines!  There is certainly no fusing (all fuses are connected to circuits dealing with running lighs, bilge pump, wipers, etc.), but if gauges do not require it, that is good.

I have carefully labled every wire in the console and sometimes at several points.  I would love to clean the mess up, but as you note, it does work right now and perhaps that is the greater good.

If you get any insight from looking at your boat, I would be glad to hear it.

Thank you very much for the reply.
RGB

[John Jones]

Most of the time the bundle comes from the motor wiring harness.  If the yellow is the power for the gauges, it is fused inside the motor cowling.  If it has had other stuff added to it, it could be on the verge of overload and give trouble down the road.  Usually only gauges and trim and tilt controls connect to the motor harness.  My best suggestion is to buy a factory service manual for the motor and go by their wiring diagram for anything attached to the motor wiring harness.  If other stuff is spliced onto the motor circuit I would re-wire them to their own fused supply.  Good luck.

The marine wire color code has been posted here several times before but I'll stick it in here too.  Maybe it will help with the original wiring anyway.

Standard Boat Wiring Color Codes.


Blk -Grounds-General
Blk/Brn -Pump Grounds
Blk/Red -Voltmeter Grounds
Blk/Org -Isolated Accessory Grounds
Blk/Yel -ignition stop
Blk/Grn -Water Level Sender Ground
Blk/Blu -Lighting Grounds
Blk/Gry -Nav Light Grounds
Blk/Wht -Battery Parallel Solenoid
Brown -Pumps-General, Bilge or Sump (Manually Switched)(Also alternator starter to Ign.)
Brn/Red -Pumps, Bilge or Sump
Brn/Org -Power feed to Auto Bilge Switches-Pumps, Fuel/Oil Tranfer or Priming
Brn/Yel -Baitwell or Aerator
Brn/Grn -Fresh Water Pump/Water Maker
Brn/Blu -Head Pump
Brn/Vio -Washdown Pump
Brn/Wht -trim pos sender
Red - Battery Feeds Unprotected
Red/Vio -Misc. Accy. Main Feed Protected (fused) from batt to trim panel.
Pink -Fuel Sender
Org/Blk -Audio System Feed
Org/Brn -Electric Head-Sanitation System
Org/Red -Wiper Port
Orange -Accessories common feed- Dist Panel to Acc switch-Anode Electrode-Mercathode
Org/Yel -Diesel Pre-heat
Org/Grn -Wiper Stbd
Org/Blu -Communications Equipment
Org/Vio -Navigation Equipment
Org/Wht -Wiper Center
Yel/Blk -Choke - Neutral saftey trans mounted
Yel/Red -Start Solenoid(starting circut), Neutral Safety
Yel/Org -Powered Ventilation, Fans
Yellow -Bilge Blowers -(also alternator DC output)
Yel/Wht -Rudder Angle Sender
Grn/Red -Stop Solenoid/Kill Switch
Grn/Yel -AC Grounding
Green -Bonding
Grn/Wht -Engine Trim in and or tilt down
Grn/Org -Engine Independent Trim down
Blu/Blk -Cabin Lights
Blu/Brn -Oil Temp Send
Blu/Red -Cabin or Cockpit Lights Port
Blu/Org -Engine Independent Tilt Up
Blu/Yel -Lighting Circuits to Remote Send
Blu/Grn -Cabin or Cockpit Lights Stbd
Blu -Instrument & General Lighting
Blu/Vio -Courtesy, Boarding Lighting
Blu/Wht -Engine Trim Outand/or Tilt Up
Light Blue -Oil Pressure
Vio/Red -Eng. or Generator B+ from Breaker
Vio/Yel -I/O Trim Up (ballast bypass)
Vio/Grn -I/O Trim Down
Vio -12v Ignition-Generator or Engine
Vio/Wht -Trim "Trailer" switch
Gry/Blk -Mast Light
Gry/Red -Spotlight Remote
Gry/Org -Docking Lights
Gry/Grn -Strobe or Beacon
Gry/Blu -Spreader/Flood Lights
Gry/Vio -Windlass/Winch
Gray -Navigation (running) Lights, Tach. Send
Gry/Wht -Anchor Light
Wht/Brn -Temp. Alarm or Indicator
Wht/Red -Fuel Alarm or Indicator -((Ignition module to Dist.)Mercury Thunderbolt Ignition)
Wht/Org -Fire Alarm or Indicator
Wht/Yel -Air Flow Alarm or Indicator
Wht/Grn -Water Press/Flow Alarm or Indicator - ((Ignition module to Dist.)Mercury Thunderbolt Ignition)
Wht/Blu -Oil Press Alarm or Indicator
Wht/Vio -Voltage Alarm or Indicator
White -General Alarm Usage, Yamaha Kill Switch
Tan - Water Temp sender
Tan/Blu -Warning system sense wire (Audio warning)
Pink -Fuel sender

[rburlington]

John,

Thank you very much for the chart on color code.  I will print that out.

Also, I did a careful tracing of circuits on the Yamaha 220 diagram.  For the most part it is easy to follow.  For one thing, you are probably correct about the potential for overload.  They yellow wire is supposed to pass through a fuse in the console.  Originally it connected to the following in the console:  Ignition switch, buzzer, choke switch, and trim meter.  As I see it now it is connected to these plus the following: Hour meter, volt meter, oil gauge, and tachometer and it is not fused at all.

In light of that, I have some more questions:

1.  Should I put black and yellow wires through separate bus bars and fuse the yellow wire going into its side, and if so, then what size of a fuse, or

2.  Use the bus bars noted in # 1, but fuse each yellow out of the positive one with a separate in-line fuse, and if so what size fuses, or

3.  Instal a fuse box for engine related instruments and place two or three circuits per fuse, and, again, if so, what size fuses.

Generally, I agree with Rich that things-not-broken should not be fixed, but I am a little uneasy about this and thinking that perhaps it is about to get broken with so many items running unfused from so one supply wire.

Thanks
RGB

[John Jones]

Gauges draw very little current.  You will probably be okay if you fuse that wire.

Proper configuration whether using fuses or circuit breakers is to have a large gauge supply wire, fused near the battery, to supply the bus bar, fuse block, or circuit breakers.  Then each individual circuit should be fused to the proper size for it's use.

Choice of fuse block, inline fuses, or circuit breakers is an individual choice.  Inline fuse holders are unreliable.  Quality circuit breakers are probably the best and the most expensive.  I chose to use a fuse block with automotive ATO fuses to get the best bang for the buck.  They will not give trouble if coated with dielectric grease and mounted in a dry location.
http://www.bluesea.com/product.asp?Prod ... 1=7463&l2=


I used Blue Sea Systems components.  They are the best.
http://www.bluesea.com

The best source I have found for wire, connectors, heat shrink, etc. is Best Boat Wire.
http://www.bestboatwire.com

I know I have only scratched the surface but this will give you a starting point for research and planning.  I have lots more pointers and so will everyone else.  

$0.02

[RickK]

I think that table of color codes should be in a resource section (other than links to other Mfr) - what do you think?  Do we have a section like that - if not maybe we should start one?  
Good info.  Is it only for wiring harness/ bundles or anywhere you find a wire on a boat?  (If so, then my boat is in BIG violation )  For instance, if I want to re-wire my running/Nav lights I should run blk/gry & gry pair?  Do they make such a pair?

[rburlington]

John,
I am again in your debt.  Thank you for the extra sites and for the advice.  I agree again with Rick that there are a few things that could be resource pages; the wiring color code is one of those.  Perhaps, while on the topic of wiring, a basic set of electric and electronic symbols commonly used in wiring diagrams could be another.

Once again, thank you very much for the responses and help.
RGB

[John Jones]

RGB,
No problem, ask anything.  Someone on here will know the answer or where to find it, usually.

Rick,
Some kind of resource section would be nice to have instead of having to repost or filter through chatter to find something, just like your non-skid info  

I used the color codes to figure out my original wiring but it would be awfully expensive to buy some of each possible combination to rewire.  Hell, if it was the + side I used red and black for - for all my re-wiring and additions.  I borrowed a Brother label maker and they make industrial grade tape for it that withstands water and heat.

Refurbished label maker $25
http://www.imagesupply.com/labelMaker1750PT_refurb.asp

industrial tape
http://www.imagesupply.com/productcart/ ... tegory=486

I just marked the wires at each end with something that made sense to me ie:  FNT NAV LT, BILG PUMP +, etc.

[GoneFission]

RGB:

All electrical circuits require some sort of protection!  Fires on boats are often caused by wiring that shorts or is overloaded and gets hot enough to burn.  The fuse or circuit breaker should open at a load that is less than what would cause excessive heating of the conductor.  Protection should be matched to expected load, but never more than the wire size rating.  For example, here's a basic "rule of thumb" for maximum loads on different wire sizes for runs up to about 30 feet:

10 gauge - 30 amps
12 gauge - 20 amps
14 gauge - 15 amps
16 gauge - 10 amps
18 gauge - 7 amps
Do not use any wire smaller than 18!  

The yellow and black lines you are referencing are gauge power and ground, and - as JJ has noted - have little current draw.  You could probably go with a 5 amp fuse or circuit breaker for the group.  Remember to properly terminate any connections - terminal failure is probably more common that conductor failure.  Use a marine grade terminal and a quality crimper - and consider the location and environment for whether tape, grease, or encapusulation is needed for corrosion protection.  Usually the back of an instrument panel is not subjected to direct salt spray or continual moisture exposure, so you should be good to go with a normal termination process.  

Good luck!

[warthog5]

I looked at my factory manual for my C-90 Yamaha '98 model.

As said the yellow wire is for the guages, but it goes thru a 10amp fuse at the motor on mine.

To really know what you have you need a factory manual to know what everything is.

[GoneFission]

It's probably 16 or maybe even 18 gauge wire, so they have it fused for wire capacity, not load.  

I would still go with a 5 amp fuse or breaker - it ain't good when the meter blows to protect the fuse!   :cry:

See ya on the water!

[rburlington]

Thanks for all the input on the yellow and black wires from the engine to the gauges.  Here is what I am planning to do:

1.  Black wire to a bus bar and from there to each item it is supposed to ground.
2.  Yellow wire to a fuse box and from there a fuse per 2 or 3 items powered by it (probably 5 amps per circuit).

 Now another question or two:  There are 8 other wires in the 10 wire bundle going to several gauges, etc.  

Question # 1:  Should each of these wires pass through a fuse on its way to its final destination?

There are also another bundle or two coming from the engine area.  For instance, one of them contains 4 wires and runs between the trim sensors at the engine and the trim gauge at the console.

Question # 2: Should each of these wires be fused too?

I am guessing (I am a real amature!) that all of these various wires (the eight from the 10 wire bundle and the other bundles too) could be said to carry information in the form of current rather than powering anything the way that the yellow and black wires do (I am leaving out a discussion of the non-engine related devices such as running lights, bilge pump, etc. since these are currently properly wired and fused).  Is the nature of these "info" circuits such that they can be left unfused? That is  the basic question that both question #1 and question # 2 are asking.  Each of the wires in question would, if they must be fused, have to be separate circuits I am also guessing.

Thanks for all the help and any further insight is much appreciated.

Happy Thanksgiving!
RGB

[John Jones]

I hate to go into detail without a factory wiring diagram.

[GoneFission]

You are getting the right idea...  You need to fuse or protect wires that provide power, but not those that are there for communication.  So if there are four wires that connect a GPS antenna to a mapping unit, and there are two other wires that connect the mapping unit to a power source, the power wiring would require protection, but the antenna to unit wiring would typically not require protection by a fuse or circuit breaker.  Another example would be the speaker leads from a radio - again, the power to the radio would be fused, but the leads to speaker(s) would usually not require fusing.  

Also, usually only power leads are protected, not ground leads.  

If you really want to get the full lowdown on wiring, get a copy of the wiring standard for marine/shipboard installations:  IEC 60092-306.  It will tell you probably more than you will ever want to know!