Leaning Post Installation

[BradC]

Brad that is the same one indeed.  How does the quality feel in person?

Also, Could you do me a HUGE favor and send me somewhat precise measurements of the hole mounts for the leaning post?  Like distance from the hole at the top of the triangular shaped mount, to the one on the opposite side?  And possible the width of the holes on the 'legs' of the triangular shaped mount if possible?

I'd advise against cutting leaning post and console.  That leaning post is on the more narrow side of ones I've found (28.5 I think?)  If you need to go smaller, they're out there on the market. 

re: console, I'm trying to find ways to make mine easier to walk around too.  I figured out the grab rails add a lot of width.  They protrude far outside of the console footprint.  I'm going to have some welding buddies change the angle to be closer to the console, if that makes any sense at all.

Sent you a PM, let me know if you don't get it

[CTsalt12]

Leaning post has arrived and it's time to mount.  I am conflicted on the 5200 method vs overdrilling with epoxy.  Obviously one is way easier than the other.  I need to check the wood quality with some  pilot holes.   Had to do a lot of deck injections in the general area from the previous owner using really poorly sealed deck holes.  This leaning post will be mounted partially on the tank coffin top, and partially on the deck as you will see in a picture.

I measured 3/4 inch deck on my boat.  That sound about right?

Should the west systems thickened epoxy do the trick if I go epoxy route?  https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-system--six10-thickened-epoxy-adhesive--10287571?mrkgadid=3333352594&mrkgcl=481&mrkgen=gpla&mrkgbflag=0&mrkgcat=pla&cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-GSC%3ENonB%3EProduct%2520Type-_-10287571&product_id=10287571&creative=108421551244&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&acctid=21700000001687315&dskeywordid=92700049312761900&dsproductgroupid=661702862768&product_id=10287571&merchid=2709845&prodctry=US&prodlang=en&channel=online&storeid=%7bproduct_store_id%7d&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&locationid=%7bloc_phyiscal_ms%7d&creative=108421551244&targetid=aud-298625767083:pla-661702862768&campaignid=604141910&adgroupid=30686297164&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpqGpzOu16AIVBXiGCh37hQABEAQYASABEgJ2EvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

RickK-sounds like a silly question, but how did you manage to get the inserts in without getting epoxy inside the inserts and fouling the threads?

How essential would it be to tap threads and/or use an insert, As opposed to drilling into the epoxy?  Same goes for glassing over, is that really necessary?

 It will be a nice addition so be able to see over the console while driving and lean on the seat to get some weight off the dogs.

[RickK]

Unfortunately I don't think the inserts will work for you in this situation.  I was in an area on my boat that was flat, over my stringers, no seams to worry about - I could drill 1" holes, fill them with thickened resin and let them harden. Then mark and drill into the resin slug, thread in the inserts, thread in some all thread to protect the threads, gelcoat the area. You have some tough areas - edges of lids where the glass is pretty thin, seams that you are straddling, etc. Tough areas.
Here's my install:


Set the seat carefully back in to make sure it mounts correctly - the all thread gave me a guide. I remove the all thread and have clean threads and can measure the depth for the real mounting bolts.

[CTsalt12]

You raise a good point.. The edges of the coffin is where the coring ends, not a strong mounting point... However if I'm right on the seam it can potentially drill through the coffin lid and into the edge of the coffin walls which are meant to hold coffin screws..  Hmm. 

[boatnamesue]

Haven't read entire thread...assuming the leaning post's flanges are outside of stringers.  If so, you're not gonna have access to allow for thru bolts (unlike the thread above yours where the owner positioned the thru bolts before laying the deck).  Over-drilling/epoxy is overkill, in my opinion.  As you already have determined the deck thickness, use the largest SS screw diameter the flanges will allow (prob 1/2") with the length 1/4" shorter than the deck thickness.  Under-drill the pilot holes so to allow the screw as much purchase (grip) as possible.  Dip screws threads into 5200 prior to inserting.  Do not drill in screws....do by hand.

The photo below is mine, installed in the exact same manner as I described above.  I've subjected my hull to all sorts of nasty weather, whereby excessive forces act against the purchase strength of the screws securing the leaning post flanges to the deck.  It hasn't budged.

[CTsalt12]

Yep.  Change of plans for me.  I am going to mount it off center so I have good material for the screws to grip , staying away from the tank coffin joints.  I will be able to thru bolt one of the legs of the leaning post in the tank coffin, the rest I will make sure are going into cored fiberglass. The lip of the tank coffin isn't cored.  It's still a more narrow footprint than my old cooler seat. 

Stripers should be here in no time. 

[RickK]

 

[BradC]

What about mounting a board with a larger footprint secured to the deck and the leaning post mounted to the board, then you'll at least be centered albeit with permanently stubbed toes?

[McAllgeyver]

Mounting a permanent board and then a semi-permanent leaning post is the way I think Im going. Not sure if it should be starboard of fiberglass plate sort of thing. This might be better than offsetting...

[RickK]

Maybe another method could be to bolt a heavy piece of aluminum (1/8" or 3/16") to the leg bottoms, from the bottom up, that reach to where you need to attach in wood backed fiberglass? Looks like they would be 3-4" long and maybe wide?