Inboard or outboard

[captin.kid]

If you could start a project would you go with an inboard or outboard?

[Wilson]

Outboards are all I have had so I lean toward them.  

I like inboards for larger boats, but that  being said have you seen Old Schools post http://www.classicaquasport.com/viewtopic.php?t=21?  I love it.

[captin.kid]

I saw his boat and that is what put the question in my head. I know of an old Aquasport 22' that has an inboard that I could get cheep but only know outboards my self so just do not know if this is a project that I want to get into.. Any ideas???

[Radioshop]

No question, I would do the inboard project.  You have much less expensive re-power and, typically less fuel consumption.  The major differences are; transmission, rudder, stuffing box and, propellor shaft/strut.  Yes the engine takes up the enitre console and, you have more draft, but the bulk of the weight is now in the middle of the boat versus one end.  An inboard does ride better.  Parts are less expensive for the motor and, any automotive machine shop can re-build one.  Also, if you have a GM bellhousing on your transmission, a Peninsular 6.5 diesel is an option.  A 22.2 diesel?  Wow, it just couldn't get any cooler.  The only thing I don't like is how Aquasport did the fuel tank on the inboards, it's basically a big aluminum box up against the transom.  It seems like there's got to be a better way to do it.

[scott_gunn]

If the added draft is not a problem, then the inboard would be the way to go probably.

[Wilson]

I agree.  The added draft is the biggest drawback, not to mention the lack of tilt/trim.

[snapper whipper]

wait till ya try and back it up hey hey but if you plan your moves you can do it

[jaythefisherman]

added draft brings up a question, exactly how much do they draft with an v8 small block , not a diesel?

[Larryowen]

No question, I would do the inboard project.  You have much less expensive re-power and, typically less fuel consumption.  The major differences are; transmission, rudder, stuffing box and, propellor shaft/strut.  Yes the engine takes up the enitre console and, you have more draft, but the bulk of the weight is now in the middle of the boat versus one end.  An inboard does ride better.  Parts are less expensive for the motor and, any automotive machine shop can re-build one.  Also, if you have a GM bellhousing on your transmission, a Peninsular 6.5 diesel is an option.  A 22.2 diesel?  Wow, it just couldn't get any cooler.  The only thing I don't like is how Aquasport did the fuel tank on the inboards, it's basically a big aluminum box up against the transom.  It seems like there's got to be a better way to do it.

Hey people, I have a 1977 222 INBOARD and wouldn't change it for anything! It has a Chevy 350-5.7L and Velvet drive 01:1 ratio. I am going to re-power it using a new long block ... perhaps 300-325 HP ($2,300!). As long as I get one that is in concert with the current engine (block model is same; produced between 1969-1980). I need more speed, and the upgrade will require a different prop size and pitch.

My question is, what is the speed potential difference between an outboard and an inboard, given that they are the same HP rating.

[theFunsmith]

It came down to crab ropes for me. I run an amateur crew at times, and stuff happens. A rope around a prop is much less of an ordeal on an outboard.

[Larryowen]

It came down to crab ropes for me. I run an amateur crew at times, and stuff happens. A rope around a prop is much less of an ordeal on an outboard.

Amen! I dragged a crab trap a hundred yards once, wondering why I was slowing down. Speaking of crabs, I like your avatar. Here on FL west coast we catch blue crabs at will. As a boy, I caught 18 using the same chicken neck. Sometimes, two at a time. Good eatin'.

[Larryowen]

I have ordered a 350/5.7L long block from Summit -- Vortec heads, 1-piece main seal, roller rockers, 2-bolt main -- 373 HP / 400# torque.

Please, here are two neophyte questions:
Concerning the intake manifold for the (Vortec) heads: does it have to be marine designated? Could I choose an Edelbrock standard performance spread bore manifold and use brass or stainless fasteners ... and even paint it to curb corrosion?

Also, what are the thoughts about aluminum vs cast iron. thanks!

[GoneFission]

Alloy intakes work better and are much lighter than cast iron.  But your cooling system makes a big difference.  Edlebrock makes a marine manifold with brass inserts.  https://www.edelbrock.com/performer-rpm-vortec-marine-intake-manifold-2516.html 

But you don't need it if you have fresh water cooling, since the only water that touches the manifold is fresh/antifreeze coolant.  If you are running raw water cooling, then you need the marine manifold, brass freeze plugs, marine water pump, and a couple more things.  You also probably want to go with a 145 degree thermostat to prevent salt buildup in the engine if you have raw water cooling. 

If you are buying a crate engine for raw water cooling, it makes sense to buy a marine engine.  It will have the features you need instead of having to backfit.  For salt water use, fresh water/closed cooling systems with no salt water in the block make sense.  For fresh water use - you can go with raw water cooling and the marine additions to the engine. 

Hope this helps!