Merc. 200hp Starting issue.

[fitz73222]

Coincidentally, approaching 2000 rpm is when the engine switches from low speed to high speed jets as the air volume increases in the ventries.

[futch13]

Pump the primer bulb hard then let sit for a couple minutes then reprime bulb.  If it takes a couple pumps to reprime, pull fuel pump and check for fuel in the crank case hose.  If fuel is present, rebuild pump.  Sounds like a pin hole in diaphragm causing flooding when under pressure after running.  That is why you have to open throttle all way to restart.

[fitz73222]

 That makes sense Loye! Sean didn't mention rough idle and smoke so I didn't go there. How have you been?

[Mullady76]

That makes sense Loye! Sean didn't mention rough idle and smoke so I didn't go there. Now have you been?

Rough idle no, but a few puffs of smoke only occur when it restarts, but clears up after a few seconds.   I figured it was because the engine was flooded from excessive cranking.
Since the rebuild kit for the fuel pump is only $15, I might as well do it if I'm going to take the pump apart.  I will let you guy know what's going on after I do the F.P., test the stator, and power packs.
Thanks again for the help, Sean

[futch13]

Hey Fitz, All good here.  Still BUSY!!!!!   

What made me think of the fuel pump was after running then sitting for 5 mins had to open throttle almost all the way then it would start.

[Mullady76]

This morning I was able to spend a few hours on the boat for figure this problem out.  All the testing was done in my slip.  First thing I did was run the motor on a portable tank with fresh gas and a heavy dose of sea foam.  After it warmed up I shut it down and waited a few minutes, it started right up with just a bump of the key. It started right up like this for the rest of the day using the portable tank and also tank in the boat.  The fuel pump was fine, but I rebuilt it anyway.  I don't think this is a fuel problem.
I check the yellow wires on the stator for continuity, both sets were good.  However, the bullet connectors were black, bunt and corroded.  The previous owner must have messed with this because one set were standard automotive bullet connectors. See the pictures below.  The blue wire coming off the stator tested 3,930 ohms and 490v (running) using a DVA.  The Red wire tested 113 ohms and 250v using a DVA.  The motor is charging the batteries. I see 13.4v off and 14.1v running.
That said, does this mean the stator is going bad?

[fitz73222]

Unfortunately no, that is quite normal to see the stator wires in that half cooked state! Everyone I've ever seen has the stator wires that look that way, regardless of horsepower. You would would think it equates into high resistance and a potential issue but it is not. You said the engine started each time fine on the pickled mixture so why didn't you conclude a fuel issue?

[fitz73222]

Sounds like it's time to take it out and run it, getting it up to full operating temperature and do your restart tests,your stator voltage and resistance appears correct. However I had a similar issue on one of my 115's that didn't start to act up until after it was run for an hour. The stator checked fine running it on a flush but after running at speed for a while and the stator just got toasty enough, the engine would start to shut off after I idled it down but would restart and run fine after 5 minutes of sitting. Would never miss a lick at high speed. Eventually it took a dump and lost fire all together but I didn't have my DVOM or DVA when it happened. Get home, it would would fire up on the flush! Eventually I said F.....it! and replaced the stator and switch box with new CDI brand components and it never did it again.

[futch13]

It was the fuel pump !!!!!!     Might have had something floating around in a carb that the seafoam dissolved.  The yellow wires have nothing to do with starting the motor unless the battery was going dead while running and the motor wasn't turning over fast enough to provide voltage to the switch box on restart.  Sometimes loose/corroded battery connectors causes those connections to heat up/burn due to excess amps needed from the reg/rect to try and charge the battery.  Also if you are charging 2 batteries it will do the same.

[Mullady76]

 Yesterday I put a new CDI stator and a set of CDI rectifiers on the motor along with a cheap Walmart lead acid battery.  CDI clearly states no AGM batteries in their instructions.  The motor started fine, but the tach didn't work properly and it wasn't charging.  I tried plugging the tach wire the into the 2nd rectifier and had the same issue.  The dash tach read 300 rpm while it was idling at 1000 (verified by my timing light).  Since the OEM rectifiers have actual grounding wires, CDI uses the housing, I was able to temporarily connect the old ones back up.  Guess what, the tach worked and the volts jumped up.  Is it possible to get 2 dead rectifiers?

[fitz73222]

Hi Sean,
Did you use CDI P/N 194-5279 volt reg / rectifiers? I would suspect that they are not grounding properly. I would connect a ground jumper wire underneath the mounting screw heads and connect it to a good engine ground. Are your voltage regulators wired in series or independent of one another? The schematic I looked at is vague and doesn't give a clear picture of the wiring arrangement. The good news is the tech support from CDI is excellent and they will help you with this if they still won't work after you add the ground jumper. Why did you wind up replacing the stator? Seemed like this was a fueling issue but my own experience found that I had a stator issue after the engine reached full operating temperature, is this what you found?

[fitz73222]

Loye,
You got your ears on?

[Mullady76]

Fitz, Yes the rectifiers are P/N 194-5279.  I tried running separate ground wires from the rectifier mounting studs to the block.  That did work so I moved the grounds to the rectifier housings.  I'm going to give CDI a call this morning.
I replaced the stator because I found a brand new CDI one for really cheap.  That and most of the mechanics I spoke to said it was most likely the stator acting up when the motor got hot.