New floor in 75 19 6

[flatsfisher]

Hey guys its flat Fisher good to be back Taking on a new project replacing the floor in a 19/6
So any help on any post to kind of lead me along the way would be helpful

[RickK]

Hi FF,
Spend a few hours gleaning processes from the many rebuilds in the individual rebuilds sections.  Most have replacing the sole in the process.

[flatsfisher]

I appreciate the info I've been looking at the different blogs on here I guess my big question is when I go to cut the floor out how much lip do I leave

[RickK]

That depends on what your plan is - lay a new floor on top of a lip that you left?  If so, usually you run a skill saw around the perimeter and the closest the blade can get is usually 2".  I did this way the first time I replaced the floor in my 170. Worked fine.
Do you have a trough?  Are you going to save it?

[florida196]

On mine which is the 200 osprey I left about 2-2.5" all the way around. Was enough to set new floor on top and bond to liner.  Also I layed a 6"layer of 1708 ontop of the lip the stiffen everything up before putting the new floor down. Just the way I did and worked for me. But a lot of rebuilds and photos on here to give u a bunch of different ideas on how to do it.

[flatsfisher]

Thanks for all the great information questions will be coming

[RickK]

If you've got a wiring trough you have a decision to make - keep it or figure out a way to run them below the sole.  Maybe Lars can share some of his experience from his rebuild. http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12508.0

[larsli68]

Hello, sorry for replying so late on this topic.
I put a dia 75mm or 3" pvc conduit underneath my sole. You can look in my thread to see how I did it. I used something called a long bend to allow the control wires to go through.
I still might have to run the hydraulic steering hoses outside, but I will try to get everything through the 3" conduit.

//Lars

[Capt. Bob]

I put a dia 75mm or 3" pvc conduit underneath my sole. You can look in my thread to see how I did it.
//Lars

Here ya go.

I used something called a long bend to allow the control wires to go through.

aka.... a sweep

[gman 82 aquasport]

You will be glad you are getting rid of the trough..On my 82 model 19-6, I ran two tubes thru the stringer on the starboard side, down the floor then turned up to have them come out about 8 inches up the gunnel wall, not that much different from what larsli68 has done, they just go up behind the gunnel wall and exit under the pie plate to access the rear light. 1 tube is 3 inch(with a 2 inch cutout for wires that will be under the floor) for all the wiring, motor, bilge pump, wash down pump etc, plus a few extra wires for later use. I also ran a 2 inch tube along side the 3 incher to hold the fuel line, the hydraulic steering lines  and the transducer cable.. the front of the pipes come up under my console and stick up about 1 inch over floor height..

[dougals toy]

I have to put a new deck in my 1985 196.. I noticed the pics of Lars rebuild and he put some bulkheads between stringers, is that to accommodate foam or structual?

[CLM65]

The bulkheads really stiffen up the hull.  They could be used as a boundary for foam, if you only wanted the foam certain areas, but that is not their main purpose.

[Shine]

I have to put a new deck in my 1985 196.. I noticed the pics of Lars rebuild and he put some bulkheads between stringers, is that to accommodate foam or structual?

Transverse framing will provide a lot or torsional stiffness, I added them to both my aquasport and my seacraft.  In addition the break up the space for foam (as mentioned above) and also give more bonding area for your new deck.  I would certainly add them.  The do not need to be super thick or use a lot of glass.  Use Biax tape to tab them in (I recommend two layers of 12 oz biax tape)

We still have free shipping deal if you have not bought the glass and foam 

[dougals toy]

Thanks... I like the idea why not reinforce structurally while the deck is off...Duh...Thanks