Rebuild 200 Osprey

[Capt. Bob]

Were your batteries factory-rigged below deck?

Somewhat, yes. They resided in the stern compartments on each side of the transom (over the chine) next to the rigging tubes. Most of the battery (but not the top) was below deck.

They now are located on the tank support over the keel by the forward bulkhead.
Top of battery box is probably several inches lower at this location compared to the factory.

[Capt. Bob]

The flat area was the transom cap I was talking about not an area in the floor. I was going to make a space behind the fuel tank (Where most people put in a freshwater holding tank) and place the batteries there with weep hole scuppers to keep water out for for water to flow out should any get in there. Vent hole out via console. and rubber gasket style like Rick is looking into with screen rubber for a type of o-ring. I was thinking lower for better center of gravity and balance of the boat. The fuel tank will be moved forward so this would assist with off setting that movement along with a combo leaning post, livewell and possible built into as well tackle station (I just love those so you don't have to take a tackle box on and off, sliding around the deck, etc) all built in as one. This will also be a trailer queen and not sit in the water for days (maybe 2 at the most)

My current placement is reversed. Batteries reside forward of the tank. They (in my mind anyway) compensate for the reduced weight loss due to a reduced tank size. They are much easier to access/service as opposed to their factory location and their weight is pretty much centered in the bottom of the hull (if that really means something).....Ballast?

If you have the room, I see no reason not to. Gel and AGM are less volatile in an enclosed environment. You do however pay a steep price for that and I'm not so sure you need it. Then again, placing them behind your tank (stern side) will reduce the amount of your cable run so there's a savings to be had.

Good luck.

[Aquasport Commodore]

So I had a little surgery on my arm pit due to a nasty infection that I picked up.  (From my Job and dead guy who was dead for over 4 weeks). Since I can not work on my boat, I had mucho time to think and research. I found Prisma Stringers and planking. I like what I read and SeaBob recommends them. So here is my thought and their system.

I will use their stringers no question as it will save time and possibly money. I like their smaller lumber for the center stringer as it will give good reinforcement to the center area and still be easy to install. How tall does the center stringer need to be out of curiosity? Same goes with their stringers. You give them the dead-rise, and sizes you want and they custom build them for you. (I'm betting they already have a our stringer sizes in their files) Price wise, it is actually a little cheaper then building a mold, foam, consumables and all the other stuff that goes with it. No issue yet. Here is where my brain kicks in and the time to think gets me into trouble.    

What about making a mold of the new deck with recesses for the fuel tank, storage, and bilge area. Building in the drain channels for all and doing a 2 layer floor of dbbiaxiel using the heavy stuff and epoxy. Using the Prisma lumber for coring of the deck to make strength and cut back on weight. Attaching that to the hull sides as planned and then using the same to create the casting deck area and doing it all over again. There will be bulkheads between the stringers for support and along the hull side will be some type of  Core-Cell or Prisma product to support the deck leading edge. Then epoxied in place with tabbing to the sides. Would this method save weight?

From looking at it, it would appear like building an inner liner without the entire liner and resting it on the stingers as new boats are. The only difference is there would be foam lumber under the deck for support instead of an entire sheet of Nidacore which needs 3 layers of fiberglass anyways, (1 bottom, 2 top) plus finishing the seams. OR would it be a big pain in the rear to make that deck mold and be cost prohibitive after hatches that need to fit like a glove, and making the drain channels, etc?

[gran398]

Good ideas.

Going back to the beginning





Seems would be better to keep what you have regarding the stringers. Lot of work in already....foam is out, stringers exposed. And they look fine.,..save the money.  Tab inside and outside, refoam, and glass the tops. If you're looking to mount the console or T-top to the stringers....use high density penske board, duralloy, etc on the stringer tops where needed. Use only where needed...the stuff adds weight quickly.

Then deck...then core the sides.

OR...and will save a chitload of time and money....reinstall the vertical portions of the liner versus coring.

Not sure what you have planned on the expenditure. Can say from experience that it adds up REAL quick, especially when you're talking custom drain channels, molds, etc.

The guys here are smoking it. But pay the professional at 60 to 75 bucks an hour...you see where we're going. 10K turns to 20K ....and 20K turns to 40K in the blink of an eye.

In terms of money,  would go  old school on the rebuild....along the lines of those here on CAS.

[Aquasport Commodore]

Good ideas.

Going back to the beginning





Seems would be better to keep what you have regarding the stringers. Lot of work in already....foam is out, stringers exposed. And they look fine.,..save the money.  Tab inside and outside, refoam, and glass the tops. If you're looking to mount the console or T-top to the stringers....use high density penske board, duralloy, etc on the stringer tops where needed. Use only where needed...the stuff adds weight quickly.

Then deck...then core the sides.

OR...and will save a chitload of time and money....reinstall the vertical portions of the liner versus coring.

Not sure what you have planned on the expenditure. Can say from experience that it adds up REAL quick, especially when you're talking custom drain channels, molds, etc.

The guys here are smoking it. But pay the professional at 60 to 75 bucks an hour...you see where we're going. 10K turns to 20K ....and 20K turns to 40K in the blink of an eye.

In terms of money,  would go  old school on the rebuild....along the lines of those here on CAS.

As for reusing the stringers, the dip in the back due to making room for the deck core and they are all delaminated from the hull.
No plans for T-Top but will reenforce the footing if I should change my mind in the future.
I'm going to core the sides and make it look like an old school Aquasport as they look the best...(Sorry if I offended anyone   )
I like the way http://boatbuildercentral.com/howto/aquasport/12.php The cap was done here and attacked to the hull permanently. If you see the 3 spaces created by the rear cap prior to installing it, I would use the outside for tackle storage and the inside for access to pumps, bilge, wires, etc. Maybe hide a washdown hose inside as well. Still planning and drawing prior to buying materials so I dont over spend and yet dont short change supplies myself. As for paying someone, Nope just making the wife happy and doing my own work. I have you guys to answer my questions and when all else fails, drink a beer and start over...

I took this from another post

This is the same 70's 22-2 casting deck as offered. Light prep and re-sprayed with gelcoat.
Solid glass, not cored.
Only change is to foam/insulate the large fishbox forward. A spray-can will do it.

This part will not fit the 1966 through 1971 22-2 Flatback.

So here is another question for you, do you remake these? If so, would it fit into the hull of a osprey 200? Keep in mind I'm taking my liner out and redoing the cap and inside. I like the design and would save me some work if possible and has the built in drains where they flow to the deck and keep water out.

[gran398]

Sorry, no on both questions.

Hang onto all of the old parts you can 'till you're finished the project...you never know.

[gman 82 aquasport]

My .02 on the front deck part of your 200 Osprey( I rebuilt my 82 19-6)
If you want to add drains for the outer storage bins I would drain them to the deck floor and let any water run down and out the deck drains at the stern(wished I had done mine this way). You will always get a little water in the bins.
Your cooler box in the middle should of had a drain that goes out the hull under where your gas vent is. If I saw the pic right it shows up in one of them, my thought would be rerun the drain the same way but leave out the majority of the downward loop just make the downward loop smaller.
When you remove the front deck area, just flip it over, remove the old foam, reinforce any areas of concern and re-foam, will make the casting deck stronger and will insulate the boxes better.
You're doing a good job , hardest part is deciding exactly what you want to do..
Stringers, well many ways to tackle that one, with the hole in the hull under one I would cut them off as close to the hull as possible, fix the hole and reglass the originals back down add a little more glass the the floor while they are out.
I got lucky on mine as the stringers were still attached to the hull good, just added to the height of them to compensate for a floor that is 3/4 inch higher an refoamed with 4lb foam..keep up the good work, and heal up before you get back to it..

[Aquasport Commodore]

That nasty bug was MRSA, not a nice thing to have. And then there is the blind doctor....... Should have been a clue when he had his glasses on his nose down low, and was reading a bottle approx 6", yes I said 6 inches, and had a hard time at at......But I'm much better now. (My regular Doc was off and this was the fill in. I let my Doc have the business when he got back, just glad I was off duty and the bat belt was home and the taser away........Thats all Im saying   )

Meanwhile back to the original question as I am a little confused, when I put my first layer of 1708 on to the transom dam to make the new full one, do I put mat side against the dam or the woven part? I have researched and cant find my answer. I will be using epoxy as well.

I am not affiliated with them just a customer and I went to Marine Surplus in Bradenton today and they have the best prices on full rolls if you don't have the ship it. I took a photo of the price list and anything smaller than the full roll was $7.00 a yard on anything other than mat. The mat I think was $6.00 for 50" wide yard. That is the guys fingers in the photo. He said that they have rolls and rolls of this stuff.  

[RickK]

... when I put my first layer of 1708 on to the transom dam to make the new full one, do I put mat side against the dam or the woven part? I have researched and cant find my answer. I will be using epoxy as well.

The mat side against the dam will help it adhere better. Then you will need to add mat to the cloth side as you proceed. Mat doesn't work as well with epoxy, unlike poly where it melts the binders in the cloth.  The mat just sits in the epoxy but does give the next layer more to grip. Remember wet on wet is the way to go as you lam.