1993 Johnson 140-V4 possible problem?

[avidskier]

So, I have a different post on a rebuild I'm doing for a 1971 Osprey but have a question on my motor.

I have the powerhead off the midsection, as I have a newer 1996 (V4-120) midsection, lower unit and tilt and trim which I will be using.

I took the cover off the intake manifold to check the carbs and noticed oil and/or water gasoline residue inside the bottom of this cover. The carbs are super clean with no residue whatsoever. It's a two stroke with oil and gas mix so no oil injection. I'm not understanding where the oil is coming from.

I did notice that the gasket that seals cover to base on the manifold was bad at the bottom and this is where the water may have come in?

Any ideas? Can I have a bigger problem? Cracked manifold?

[fitz73222]

Not to fear Avid, it is quite normal in 2 stroke carb'd all brands, typically after tilting the engine up all carbs will have a degree of drip and it accumulates in the bottom of the air box. I doubt there is any water in it, it just may appear to be. Just gas and oil.

[avidskier]

thank you fitz!
Maybe you can offer me some advice on another recent issue I ran into with this motor?
I noticed frayed wires on the fuel pump primer solenoid and the fuel pump itself. Problem is I can't mend these wires as they are too close to the actual units.
Yes, the solenoid is relatively inexpensive but the fuel pump is pretty pricey.
Here is a photo that will help explain the conundrum. The red circle shows the solenoid but directly above is the fuel pump.
Any ideas on a not so expensive way of rectifying this?
Much thanks in advance.

[fitz73222]

Well I guess the only course of action is to coat the exposed wires with liquid neoprene to keep them from grounding if you can't do the repair.

[avidskier]

Best course of action is to replace the fuel pump, going to look around for a used one.
Thanks fitz!

[futch13]

If you are premixing, why are you worried about wires on the VRO pump?  All they do is monitor pulses for the oil, they don't run anything.  They should be disconnected, if they are connected, you should have been getting an alarm with no oil in the reservoir.  Check your alarm horn below the key switch.

[avidskier]

Futch,

Sorry but as I should have mentioned, I'm a novice when it comes to this kind of stuff. I am really handy and believe that with a good shop manual and forums such as these, anything is possible, so....

I assumed since the wires are there, they performed a function of some sort. They are connected. Last time I had the motor running I was getting an alarm near the key switch. It's all making sense now. The powerhead is now off the midsection and sitting in my shed out of the elements.

Makes sense what you say as the oil is premixed with the fuel so no need for this connection.
In theory, as you mentioned, if I was to disconnect these wires there would be no problem. Actually it makes even more sense now, the valve is capped off as you can see directly to the left of the fuel pump wires. This valve or intake I assume is where the oil injection hose would go?

Maybe you can help me with something that I have also been contemplating doing and that is redoing the head gaskets. The last time and only time I checked the cylinder compression it was 80 + or - on all cylinders. The mechanic who did the compression test didn't say it was low or high but said it was good that it was even on all cylinders. I have heard that sometimes replacing the head gaskets can increase the compression and therefore performance of the engine. Is this somewhat true?

Thanks!!

[fitz73222]

Avid,
I'd make sure your compression gage is reading correctly. The compression of 80 psi would be considered very low, but since it is even I would say you have a gage issue.  Check the compression again with a different gage before determining next steps.

[futch13]

Avid,
I'd make sure your compression gage is reading correctly. The compression of 80 psi would be considered very low, but since it is even I would say you have a gage issue.  Check the compression again with a different gage before determining next steps.

Fitz is correct, 80 psi is way low, that motor is normally at 120-125 psi.  You can check your compression gauge by using your compressor, look at the line pressure of your compressor, then attach your gauge, should be equal.  If your gauge winds up being correct, then you have a motor with internal issues, if the gauge is reading low then you probably have a good motor, just need to correct your gauge readings with the deferential.

Leave the pump wires disconnected and your alarm should go away.  The primer wire, if the primer is still working, you can coat with liquid electric tape and it should be fine.  They are still available so you can always get one to replace it new or find a used one somewhere.

[kaptainkoz]

80 lbs might be just about right for that motor. Evinrude/Johnson "looper" motors are funny like that. Some years they came from the factory with 95 lbs a cylinder. With 2 strokes it's more important that compression be within 10 percent of each cylinder than gross compression number. If you have 80's across the board and the motor runs fine then don't worry about a thing. If you have one cylinder outside of 10% then there could be a problem. I've had loopers in the high 70's that ran perfectly and strong. Sure, there is an efficiency loss and it may have been more smokey and burned more fuel but I don't exactly have $15,000+ for a new one so you deal with it for the dozen or so fishing trips that life will let me squeak out of the year.
One item to pay attention to with that motor are the 5 check valves (or 7 for a v6). There are small diameter rubber hoses running from the side of the cylinder to bronze nipples on the Intake manifold. These are not just bronze nipples they are check valves that have to do with fuel recirculation within the motor. They often gum up or fail open. I have never been able to clean them so you usually have to replace them. They make an okay running motor run great. There are 4 of them (or 1 per cylinder on larger loopers) and last I checked they are about $31 each! There may be a 5th check valve ( depending on year and model) under the lowest carb as a plastic tee connecting a hose from above the carbs to two hoses below them. There is a arrow cast into the part so it's easier to identify this one.  These will not correct a sneeze or a stalling motor but they will smooth out an erratic idle and restore a motor to running better