T top attachment to the floor

[Mullady76]

I just picked up a used fiberglass T top for my CCP that came off a larger 23 or 25 ft. Mako.  My issue is mounting it to the floor.  I know I should thru bolt it with backing plates, but I don’t know if I want to cut access holes and install (4) more deck plates.  In fact, the legs might even sit on top of the stringers?  I was thinking about drilling oversized (3/4") holes in the floor and digging out the foam underneath.  I would then fill these cavities under the floor with thicken epoxy and embedded tee nuts.  I figure the ¼” bolts would break well before the epoxy plugs could pull thru a plywood floor. 

I also have the option of adding another cross brace to the front legs that runs along the floor in-between the coffin box and console (dead space).  This brace could be thru bolted to the floor using the existing access holes under the coffin box.  Do you think the epoxy and tee nuts are enough to hold this top in place?  There are also stand offs that tie into the top and sides of the console, if that helps.

Thanks, Sean

[RickK]

I'm not sure the best way to tackle this.  The T-top is going to be the go to thing to hang onto when it gets rough. Just thinking aloud here, I would almost feel better, myself, if I had no other options, with using a stainless toggle bolt and spring wing.  The downside is that you have to drill big holes to get the spring wing past the stringer bottom.  At least you know that won't pull out like the t-nut could.

[gran398]

Yes, the idea is to spread the load as much as possible. Those spring toggles work well, and are available in stainless.

As you were saying, you really aren't sure if you'll hit the stringers or not. Even a better reason for going with the method Rick describes.

Don't worry about the bigger holes, they can be filled before you tighten everything down, just use long bolts so you can keep the top jacked up while the filler sets. The base plate of the t top will cover up a lot of that anyway.

One toggle per leg should do it....you can lag screw the rest. As you say its getting bolted to the console.

[RickK]

I think the best way, as you mentioned, is to put backer plates under the floor and drill/tap into those.  You didn't mention (at least in this thread) what size CCP it is and whether it has a coffin box.
I think one of our members - maybe GoneFission - cut an access hatch in front of the console, under the coffin and took pics of what it looks like underneath it.  Seems like lots of room if I remember correctly and you had access to the stringer tops. He checks in often and should spot this thread, so help is near.

[Capt. Bob]

Memory serves, it's a 200 and yes it has the same smaller box that I had on my 222.

Here's an old thread you may remember. Don't know that it will help.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=3268.0

This snippet was taken from member John Dupree and his install:

"As far as the mounting goes, it mounts on the front of the console right below the windshield and above the cushion on the console.  The rear legs are mounted to the ledge at the bottom of the console.  The front legs are mounted to the deck right on front of the console beside the coffin box.  It also has 2 mounts on the console right below the instrument cluster.

The reason the rear legs are mounted to the ledge at the bottom of the console is for deck space.  I was able to keep my space walking around the console.  Also, this enables you to run wire up to the electronics box from the 2 rear legs.  He said that the console is very well made and is more than strong enough to support the top.  The top is very well made and does not "sway" one bit."

Here's the thread with pics.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=3390.msg21515#msg21515

While this is a 78 200, please notice how far the console overlaps the fuel coffin. Might mean that you would indeed find foam but not stringer.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=3883.0

Don't know that any of this will help.

Good luck.

[Mullady76]

   
This is approximately where the legs will land on my 200ccp.  Sorry the picture is tiny. The front legs will extend a few inches past the back of the coffin box, but I was going to bend a pipe to fit around back of the the coffin box and bolt that to the floor.  Those spring wing bolts do not spread the load out very well.  All that load is on the two bend up tabs on each wing.  At least with the epoxy embedded nuts, you are trying to pull a 2" dia. x 2" tall solid plug thru a 3/4" hole. 

If anybody is looking for anodized aluminum piping they should check out the places that sell hand railing.  The same 6063 - T5 sch. 40 pipe without the marine price tag.

Sean

[Capt. Bob]

I mounted my live well by epoxying the nuts into the deck but of course the forces acting on it are lower. Hopefully your deck in those areas is still in decent shape.

Good luck.

[GoneFission]

I put access hatches on the outboard sides of the stringers and took the foam out.  Now I have rod storage under the decks and access.  So I used backing plates under the t-top legs.  Here is a link to the thread for the hatch install:

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=5395.0 

Good luck! 

[Mullady76]

Gonefission, I like the idea of under deck storage, plus removing some of the wet foam.  Maybe I could install a smaller 8"x14" hatch between the front and rear legs?

[GoneFission]

Gonefission, I like the idea of under deck storage, plus removing some of the wet foam.  Maybe I could install a smaller 8"x14" hatch between the front and rear legs?

You could, but I can tell you getting that foam out is a bear.  I used a power washer as a lance to cut the foam into pieces, and then a shovel to break it loose and get it out.  Once you start, you probably need to go all the way aft to allow drainage to the bilge.  I would guess water would just pond up if you just had a hole in the center, making things even worse...