Battery Disconnect

[johnmkar]

I am in the process of replacing the stereo, VHF radio and FF/GPS on my '99 215DC. The PO combined all 3 hot leads into one spade connector and connected it to the accessory toggle switch. I would like to utilize the separate circuit breakers that are available in the helm for each piece of electronics. I know that they are constantly hot but was considering wiring in a Blue Seas mini battery disconnect switch to the 6ga wire that powers the helm. I would locate the switch inside the helm. Should I have any concerns in doing this or locating the switch in the helm? If I disconnect the power at the helm, the automatic bilge pump should still work since it gets its power from the panel located in the battery compartment at the transom, correct?

Thank you for all your help.

[Capt. Bob]

John,
You're on the right path with wiring each device separately and I'm sure our resident electrician will guide you but let me ask this.

What is your concern in having the switches hot? I'm guessing you already have a battery switch that is in place (2 batts.).
I'm fuzzy on adding another switch just for your electronics.

Either way, SB will be along and ...

Good luck.

[seabob4]

John, some things to clarify here.  First, the ACC breakers at the helm, as well as all the rest of the breakers, should be wired "switched" hot, not constant hot, unless a PO changed something.  The only circuits that are wired constant hot are the bilge float switch and stereo memory.  You might want to verify that the spare breakers are indeed wired constant hot.  If you already have a batt switch, turn it off and check for voltage on those breakers.  

Since the 6 GA running to the helm feeds both the upper and lower panels, if you install a batt switch, turning it OFF will kill power to the entire helm.  The battery switch option on the 215, the factory located the switch aft adjacent to the black fuse box...

[johnmkar]

The boat currently has only 1 battery and no battery switch. The 6ga wire comes out of the black box and connects to the infamous blue connector into the helm wiring harness. I  do not think there was ever a switch installed since I don't see any old mounting holes.

Can the black box be opened and the 6ga wire be replaced and extended? That would be the only way to install a switch at that location. I could then install a second battery for electronics in the port console to distribute the weight better. If I can, should I remove the blue connector and just use a butt connector?

[Capt. Bob]

The boat currently has only 1 battery and no battery switch. The 6ga wire comes out of the black box and connects to the infamous blue connector into the helm wiring harness. I  do not think there was ever a switch installed since I don't see any old mounting holes.

Can the black box be opened and the 6ga wire be replaced and extended? That would be the only way to install a switch at that location. I could then install a second battery for electronics in the port console to distribute the weight better. If I can, should I remove the blue connector and just use a butt connector?

No matter what you end up doing, I think the consensus here is that the blue connector should be removed and spliced as you stated.
viewtopic.php?p=43566#p43566

[seabob4]

And you can certainly either extend the 6 GA or run a new length...

[Bergertime]

That "Blue Connector"  What a piece of crap! I was doing some voltage checking and it was the cause of a significant voltage drop b/t the fuse box in the back and my panel.  I took it apart and put some dielectric grease on each side and it was worse when I reconnected it.  I just cut it out, attached a ring connector and connected to my terminal block that powers my panel.

It was only providing a step-down in wire diameter that was needless. Was that the OEM use or did it have other reason for it's meaningless and troubled existence?

B

[Capt. Bob]

Was that the OEM use or did it have other reason for it's meaningless and troubled existence?

My guess is that Bob wired those in during rigging so that he could come back at a later date on an Aqua Forum and tell everyone to cut the bastards out. Pretty good business plan really, it's paid a nice return in post counts.

[gran398]

Was that the OEM use or did it have other reason for it's meaningless and troubled existence?

My guess is that Bob wired those in during rigging so that he could come back at a later date on an Aqua Forum and tell everyone to cut the bastards out. Pretty good business plan really, it's paid a nice return in post counts.

Oh chit that's funny!!  

Bob, you forgot to mention the plug and play unit that he sells to rectify the problem....you know, the Fighting Lady Yellow one....

(J/K SB)  

[wingtime]

You have to put your mind in a "production line frame of mind".  Bob will correct me but I believe the wire harnesses panels etc were all built by an outside vendor.  They had no way of knowing what options a boat would have so the harness would just be pre-wired for everything and had plugs at the endpoints.  So lets say a twin engine boat is being built. They grab an appropriate twin engine instrument panel and plug it into the harness.  That's the only reason for the big blue plug.  Worked great when it was brand new....  15 years later in a marine environment? .... not so good.  Of course they could have used a better plug.... but that would have meant $2.50 less profit per boat.  The same reason they didn't use tinned wire.

[Bergertime]

yea.. I hear ya Bruce.  Its a modern miracle that the plug lasts as long as it does.  It looks sealed the way it fits together but both back ends are open to the elements with the wire crimped to the tongue and groove type of connection.  In my case and like I said before, it just provided a step down in wire diameter to hook to the OEM panel.  Maybe they had other panel facing connections for different rigging options.  Anyway.. that sucker is on the way to the dump or I would have mailed it to SB for consultation!  

B

[seabob4]

You guys are funny!!  But you figured me out.  My grand scheme, 20 years later, was to have the market on "removal of the big bad blue connector"...except things didn't urn out as planned.  I've removed 1...on a 205 Osprey down in Seminole.  Chit!  Damn!  Nertz!  Best laid plans of mice and men...

Anyway, to set the record straight, MG&G out of Virginia Beach was out electrical supplier...harnesses and panels.  The hull harness had one half of the big blue beast, the switch panel the other.  I just plugged them together.  The "ground" plug and the "positives" plug were 9-pin Molex connectors...