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Author Topic: Seized Steering Part II  (Read 1068 times)

February 19, 2014, 12:13:12 PM
Reply #15

flounderpounder225

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #15 on: February 19, 2014, 12:13:12 PM »
Quote from: "SaltH2OHokie"
Quote from: "wingtime"
Heat it and beat it!.   :roll:   Thats what I had to do when mine got stuck.  Heated up the tilt tube with a propane torch and beat on the rod end with a dead blow hammer.  You can get the lead shot filled plastic coated ones at Harbor freight pretty cheap.  Don't hit it with a steel hammer you'll just mushroom the end of the rod.  A brass hammer might work too.  You can also protect the end of the rod with a hunk of 3/4" starboard.   Also spray the crap out of it with PB blaster and let it soak for a day or two.


Or do what my buddy did 2 weeks ago when we fought his on a 150 Black Max:  Get irritated/impatient, start cutting things until you have pieces that come out of where you're trying to get them out, and the next day have to go purchase a steering cable, a helm and tilt tube for your motor.  Actually the helm purchase was optional, he was looking to upgrade.  The tilt tube and cable, on the other hand, suffered a terrible ending at the hands of a big torch, a big grinder and a realllllly big hammer; those were not optional purchases.  Took 2 hours to get that new tilt tube in, and that was with 2 good size men trying to man-handle the motor where it needed to be.  I'm assuming we were missing them, but we couldn't find the first suitable pick-point on that Black Max to be able to use his hoist to help us hold the motor.

I'd say I witnessed a lesson in how NOT to fix hung up steering on an outboard.

I got a pretty good image in my head of that evolution..  :lol: I'd say the only thing left out was the 12-pack for mechanic lubrication..
Marc
1997 245 Osprey, 250 HPDI.  SOLD

February 19, 2014, 03:54:09 PM
Reply #16

wingtime

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #16 on: February 19, 2014, 03:54:09 PM »
LOL been there done that!   Good advice Dburr on the lead.  I omited the fact that you just want to heat the tube up enough to melt the grease... so another good point.  

To lift a Merc with a hoist you need a lifting ring that threads into the flywheel.
1998 Explorer w/ Etec 250


1987 170 w/ Evinrude 90

February 19, 2014, 04:10:29 PM
Reply #17

dburr

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #17 on: February 19, 2014, 04:10:29 PM »
Right on Bruce!!

Lifting ring/flywheel puller is about $30 on eBay... I have this little gem and for the price of 3 GOOD beers it is worth it!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-Mariner ... c4&vxp=mtr
Dave

88 222 Osprey
00 Yamaha OX66 150
CAS # 2590

February 20, 2014, 01:31:35 PM
Reply #18

seabob4

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #18 on: February 20, 2014, 01:31:35 PM »
Guys, you can always jury rig some stout rope or ratchet straps properly placed on the underside of the PH to lift her up with a hoist.  I even used dock lines to raise a couple of 115 Etecs one hole... :shock:


Corner of 520 and A1A...

February 20, 2014, 03:17:00 PM
Reply #19

SaltH2OHokie

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #19 on: February 20, 2014, 03:17:00 PM »
Quote from: "seabob4"
Guys, you can always jury rig some stout rope or ratchet straps properly placed on the underside of the PH to lift her up with a hoist.  I even used dock lines to raise a couple of 115 Etecs one hole... :shock:


We looked at slinging it under the powerhead, but no matter which way we tried to do it, the weight was going to end up smooshing something bolted to the sides of the powerhead that didn't look like it wanted to be smooshed.

We also figured flywheel was the way, but short of just threading a bolt into a link of chain, we didn't have what we needed on-hand to accomplish that.
Ryan

1975 Aquasport 19-6, 1985 Merc 115 Inline.
1970 Aquasport 22-2, 1987(ish) Yamaha 115 V4.
Former owner of 1988 Aquasport 290 TM.

Currently on nothing but cell phone/air card.  Which severely limits internet time.

February 21, 2014, 10:25:21 AM
Reply #20

Capt. Bob

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #20 on: February 21, 2014, 10:25:21 AM »
Quote from: "SaltH2OHokie"
We also figured flywheel was the way, but short of just threading a bolt into a link of chain

That only works for some folks.
viewtopic.php?p=113506#p113506
]
Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"

February 21, 2014, 11:53:14 AM
Reply #21

SaltH2OHokie

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #21 on: February 21, 2014, 11:53:14 AM »
My buddy's Black Max looks like it just came off of the showroom floor and its like a 1990 model.  That being the case, he doesn't unbolt anything unless absolutely necessary.  Doesn't want to chip his paint.  That was his argument for not using chain and bolts.

If were at my house, with one of my less-than-showroom motors, we'd have had her hanging from either an engine hoist or the tractor bucket quicker than spit. But this was his house, and his [angry] project.  I was just drinking a beer and "helping" where I could.

Did I mention that this juiced up Black Max came off of a 63mph bass boat and we were rigging it on 19' Carolina Skiff when the steering cable was determined to need replacing.  Quite possibly one of the faster Carolina Skiffs on the water.  Breaks over on plane as soon as you bump the motor off idle.
Ryan

1975 Aquasport 19-6, 1985 Merc 115 Inline.
1970 Aquasport 22-2, 1987(ish) Yamaha 115 V4.
Former owner of 1988 Aquasport 290 TM.

Currently on nothing but cell phone/air card.  Which severely limits internet time.

February 23, 2014, 11:04:37 AM
Reply #22

CTsalt12

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #22 on: February 23, 2014, 11:04:37 AM »
We'll after a few hours and $30, I was able to get the rod all the way in the tilt tube with MAP torch, and combo of crowbar and mallet.  Problem is I couldn't get it any farther than the tilt tube, it got stuck in there.  I most have mushroomed the end a bit of course despite all warnings.  I guess it's time to take it to the pros.  I'm assuming they'll have to cut cable and replace tilt tube and cable.  

What do you think is a good rate for this work?
Jimbo
1989 175 Osprey

February 23, 2014, 12:54:06 PM
Reply #23

dburr

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #23 on: February 23, 2014, 12:54:06 PM »
Can you post a picture of what you have so far? When you say all the way in, is the tiller swivel end in the tilt tube now?
Dave

88 222 Osprey
00 Yamaha OX66 150
CAS # 2590

February 23, 2014, 02:05:03 PM
Reply #24

CTsalt12

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #24 on: February 23, 2014, 02:05:03 PM »
I didn't take a picture I was too frustrated yesterday.  The tiller swivel is in the tilt tube, the rod is barely protruding out the starboard side now
Jimbo
1989 175 Osprey

February 24, 2014, 11:41:41 AM
Reply #25

CTsalt12

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #25 on: February 24, 2014, 11:41:41 AM »
Okay so I have come to accept that I will be buying a new stainless steel tilt tube, new steering cable, and of course the steering nut for applying oil.  I will be better off in the end, and can hopefully put the issue to rest for good!  

The question is now, do I take it into the shop or attempt to do it myself.  I have no hoist or good place to hoist it for that matter.  However, I am thinking, and have read, that a hoist might not even be necessary.  I'm thinking if I start moving the old tilt tube out, and put the new one in where the old one is coming out, I can just replace it pretty easily.  I would stabilize the engine with it trimmed all the way down and the skeg on a board and a couple big guys there to push it ever so slightly as necessary to get the holes to line up.  

Has anyone on here ever done this?  Am I crazy to consider it?
Jimbo
1989 175 Osprey

February 24, 2014, 12:35:22 PM
Reply #26

Georgie

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #26 on: February 24, 2014, 12:35:22 PM »
Sorry to hear you're throwing in the towel.  :(

Quote
Has anyone on here ever done this? Am I crazy to consider it?

I've done a few tilt tube replacements while the engine hangs on the transom b/c I have never had a sufficiently provisioned shop to take advantage of a hoist.  NOT fun, but definitely doable.  Once the bad tube is out, the hardest part is making sure you keep the holes in the motor mount brackets and the swivel bracket perfectly aligned.  If they shift, you run the risk of crushing the flanged plastic grease bushing that lives on the outer faces of the swivel bracket or the stainless thrust washers that separate the arms from the swivel bracket when you push/tap in the new tilt tube.  Examine a schematic for your engine (http://www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/JOHNSON/1990/VJ90TLESB/MIDSECTION/parts.html) carefully so you see what parts are located where, and feel free to give it a shot if you're inclined.  Be prepared to utter more than a couple curse words as you go.  It's not rocket science, and you don't need a fancy lift as long as your tilt and trim are working properly (important to help you realign the holes if your initial blocking down at the skeg shifts at all), but a second set of strong hands certainly helps when you're holding the parts together or trying to adjust the alignments by millimeters.

Good luck. :salut:
Ryan

1979 246 CCC

1987 Wellcraft 18 Fisherman

February 24, 2014, 12:52:18 PM
Reply #27

seabob4

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Re: Seized Steering Part II
« Reply #27 on: February 24, 2014, 12:52:18 PM »
Agreed with Ryan in regards to another set of hands...or 2.  Even a smallish 90 or 115 weighs in at around 275-300 lbs, and wrestling that kind of weight into position...and holding it there, takes some muscle...


Corner of 520 and A1A...

 


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