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Author Topic: Transom Rebuild  (Read 1428 times)

May 03, 2006, 09:39:00 AM
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SnookSlayer

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Transom Rebuild
« on: May 03, 2006, 09:39:00 AM »
Has anyone ever expiremented with the pourable ceramic transom material available through Fiberglass services in sarasota?  Also I was wondering if the plascore was a good core material for a transom.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

May 12, 2006, 03:27:31 AM
Reply #1

ddd222

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« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2006, 03:27:31 AM »
i want to stay loyal to aquasport, but i would post that question over at classic mako and seacraft. Very talented guys here but just the volume over there i think you would get many responses in a day, especially at c mako, and guaranteed ever a dozen who replaced transoms, with pics and step by step updates.. And somehow have tons of $, and more free time than the golden girls.
   And btw if you have the transom open, don't know your AS size, year, etc., but do yourself a favor and redesign your boats bilge, wiring, plumbing, etc. ACCESS and PLACEMENT. In my opinion the biggest flaw and afterthought of an otherwise timeless design. 1970's boats have half an excuse, but my boat is late 80's and has leaps and bounds less access to replaceable parts of comparable manufacturers. Something that causes me 1-15 problems every spring, and something that has caused a dangerous situation on the water for myself as well as passengers 2-3 times. My plans include cutting the horrible livewell out of the splashwell for starters and replacing w/ a big watertight hatch that will afford me and my slightly overweight 6'1 230 lb frame access to the bilge and wiring for starter. But having the transom open and having it all to change???Oh lord, let me count the ways....Please keep us posted

May 12, 2006, 06:18:02 AM
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RickK

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« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2006, 06:18:02 AM »
I remember someone posting about using that here and how they got all the insides out of the transom before using it.  Maybe try a search.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

May 12, 2006, 09:09:33 AM
Reply #3

DEFIANT

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« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2006, 09:09:33 AM »
I had considered using this product http://transomrepair.com/zk/. It looks as if the job would be much easier this way.

Someone on our site advised against using this product, he felt there would be a weight issue.

After removing the old rotted plywood with the inner glass removed I can't imagine being able to get all of the old core out with just the top cap removed using a chainsaw!

I went with AC plywood and glad I did since I found some problems with my stringers when the deck was cut open.

Now when I am running 15 miles off the beach I am confident my Suzuki will not fall off the back of my Aquasport :lol:

May 12, 2006, 10:01:12 AM
Reply #4

JimCt

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« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2006, 10:01:12 AM »
Rebuilt transom is the best insurance you'll ever buy.
JimCT
------
\'74 22-2 inboard
HIN:ASPL0953M74J
Chrysler 318
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\'74 Marshall 22

May 22, 2006, 11:40:25 AM
Reply #5

SnookSlayer

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« Reply #5 on: May 22, 2006, 11:40:25 AM »
thanks for the help with the seacast, that link was very helpful. I have already removed all the old plywood deck and was planning on cutting the transom out from inside leaving the outer skin.  Kinda backwards from what they showed on the seacast website.  I have almost changed my mind and am going to go with coosa though, it just seems more manageable for my plans. Thanks for all the posts.

 

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