Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => Flatback 22-2 Rebuilds => Topic started by: Group W Bench on November 14, 2012, 07:38:38 PM
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A new member, Ashley Hefner, from Beaufort, SC recently dropped off his 1968 flatback Diver for a restoration at Shipoke. I will post pictures of the rebuild to since some members are curious about the restoration steps that we employ. The way we rebuild these boats at Shipoke is not the right or wrong way, simply the way that has resulted in many happy customers. It works for us, and y'all may be able to employ some of the strategies that we utilize to save time and money on your rebuilds.
Starting w/ the steps prior to removing the ring deck:
(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab19/group_w_bench/Hefner/2012-01-12_13-49-40_206.jpg)
The flathead bolts are generally stuck and difficult to remove. We cut the flathead with a diamond wheel first.
(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab19/group_w_bench/Hefner/2012-01-12_14-01-42_928.jpg)
Then whack the heads with a cold chisel. You can roar through 168 of these little buggers fairly quickly.
(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab19/group_w_bench/Hefner/IMG_20121029_142611.jpg)
Place boards every 3-5 feet to measure the sheerline offsets prior to removing ring deck.
(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab19/group_w_bench/Hefner/IMG_20121029_142553.jpg)
Measure offsets for both beam and vertical deck sheer every 3-5 feet and write it down.
(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab19/group_w_bench/Hefner/IMG_20121031_094404.jpg)
Remove around 400 lbs of wet foam and stringers.
(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab19/group_w_bench/Hefner/IMG_20121107_152004.jpg)
Grind all stringer tabbing and bonding putty off down to the 24 oz roving.
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(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab19/group_w_bench/Hefner/IMG_20121112_135657.jpg)
Laying up 3/4 oz mat, and 3x 1708 on transom to begin.
(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab19/group_w_bench/Hefner/IMG_20121112_141653.jpg)
1 x 3/4 oz mat and 3 x 1708
(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab19/group_w_bench/Hefner/IMG_20121112_143127.jpg)
The transom is very wavy on most boats after removal of old core. We clamp the laminated mat and 1708 between 2 sheets of 1 inch melamine overnight to straighten the transom. Use peel ply or visquene between laminates and melamine. This is an easy step that will save you hours of transom fairing down the road.
(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab19/group_w_bench/Hefner/IMG_20121113_102515.jpg)
The waves and ridges in the transom are virtually eliminated with clamping.
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cant wait to see more!
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Excellent Eugene, thanks bro.
The time savings tip on removing the cap screws is awesome...most of us would never think of that. The demolition, planning/measurements/clamping/labor/finish savings....top drawer.
Time is money, and that's a fact.
Thanks :thumright:
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Gran and the rest of y'all, please remember I am not saying that this is the right way or the wrong way to do a restoration, I am just saying these are some tips that we employ at Shipoke. They are worth what you paid for them and results may vary.
For example, many folks think it unnecessary to remove all of the stringers, tabbing, and bonding putty. Instead, they opt to cut the stinger tops and dig out foam. We remove all stringers and tabbing on rebuilds allowing us to glass the entire bottom and create overlaps down the keel. Neither way is right or wrong, it's just what we do. Most disagree and call it overkill. It costs us considerably more time and money, but we think it is the right way to rebuild a boat. Our customers agree; many don't.
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Gran and the rest of y'all, please remember I am not saying that this is the right way or the wrong way to do a restoration, I am just saying these are some tips that save us time at Shipoke. They are worth what you paid for them and results may vary.
Gotcha, just like my biz. I do a LOT of free stuff for folks....just because.
About one in a hundred will come back with a question on what we had performed.... for free. Go figure right?
My standard answer to the one out of one hundred freeloader after 37 years in business.....
"Did you get your money's worth?"
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Another observation:
Guys, the reason Eugene mentions "beam and vertical deck shear" on the rebuild is to allow for the correct curvature of the deck cap on the reinstall.
Seems simplistic right?
Most re-cores of deck caps are done upside down on sawhorses. The cap curvature must be allowed for...upside down. Because when the poly kicks...it kicks.
When coring the deck cap (gunnel cap) supported with sawhorses...we failed to allow for a variable 5 to 10 degree estimated deflection upward (per Eugene's recommended measurements) amidships. So then we had to go back with a skilsaw, make relief cuts, and re-glass.
Eugene, removing the stringers to address the inner hull skin is a good thing. Don't find it questionable at all.
You have a full shop ready to make it happen. And your customer wanting to get down to pure sixties fiberglass...
They came to the right place.
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Remember yesterday's post about writing down the beam and sheerline offsets? Part one of why these measurements are important is below:
(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab19/group_w_bench/Hefner/beambraces.jpg)
Beam braces are in place. Once the ring deck is removed and the interior hullsides are ground, they have a tendency to sag outwards. That is why taking beam measurements every few feet prior to demolition and removal of ring deck is imperative.
(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab19/group_w_bench/Hefner/bottombraces.jpg)
The boat is leveled on the dolly and hook/sag taken out of bottom by bracing 2x6 along the chine until the hook falls out of the bottom. We just putty the uprights in place on the floor and long 2x6 and don't move them until we flip the boat. Hooks form in these old boats, and many restored flatbacks have trouble getting the bow up b/c the hook is most pronounced in the flat aft section.
(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab19/group_w_bench/Hefner/stbdbottom.jpg)
Stbd side glassed with 3 x 3/4 oz mat and 2 x 1808 in alternating layers. Notice that the stbd laminates extend 6" port of centerline and 4" up hullsides. The same overlaps will be utilized on the port lams and hullsides, providing double overlaps down keel and at chine. Takes virtually no more time, and creates a much stronger lam schedule.
This will be the last update for a couple of weeks, as I will be out of the country until the 28th with limited internet access. Our shop guys will send our client,Ashley, daily updates on progress. Hopefully he will be able to update the build thread in my absence.
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Awesome thread - thanks.
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Excellent Eugene!
This is what I've been waiting to see. Even better being an open transom rebuild! What's Hefner going to power her with? Will you be taking that into consideration for floor height and scupper locations? Are you going to do a tank hatch? Twin 60 Bigfoot 4 stroke Mercs would be smokin hot!
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Hey Eugene, I'm on it! I'll update photos as I receive them. Not sure what power I'm going to go with just yet, thinking 200 etec, Suzuki 140-175 but still up in the air.? Just a little background on the boat. I found the boat on craigslist in Maine, contacted the owner (who had sold the trailer) and purched the hull. The owner was a great guy who helped me out by loading it on a transport from the field it was sitting in. After getting it to S.C. I got a good used trailer and started talking to the pros in Fla. to restore. After speaking to Eugene at Shipoke I knew I found a winner. Here are a few photos of the boat leaving Maine.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/aquasportleavingMaine4.jpg)
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(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/aquasportleavingMaine3.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/aquasportleavingMaine8.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/HefnerAquasport1.jpg)
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This thread gets my vote for thread of the year!
Can't wait for the rest of the story.
Man I love those divers!!! :afro:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTLfHo9QAnQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTLfHo9QAnQ)
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Bottom glassed.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/IMG_20121116_102247.jpg)
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Wow nice work!Ashley are you leaving the diver platform?
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I am, Eugene has had some great ideas on updating the mechanism to operate it.
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Ashley, I betcha that hauler got some funny looks going down the road. We here in FL are so used to seeing brand new boats all shrink wrapped on the highways, but to see that old AS? That for certain would've turned my head!
Excellent choice on hiring Eugene, you won't be disappointed. Something I might suggest on the dive door, haven't really seen this on the models I've seen posted here...a telescoping dive ladder with the gudgeons mounted on the top inside of the door...http://www.iboats.com/Telescoping-Stain ... g-_-NA&kw= (http://www.iboats.com/Telescoping-Stainless-Steel-Sport-Diver-Ladder-34-Long-3-Step-Platform-Mount-Garelick/dm/view_id.886802?cm_mmc=Google_Main-_-Mall+Product+Listings-_-Product+Listing-_-NA&kw=){keyword}&gclid=CKrr3MeT1LMCFQHonAodg3cA4w
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Thanks seabob4, the door mounts flush into the recess but i guess the recess could be adjusted. Good idea, I'll keep it in mind.
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Mount gudgeon flush in door. I'm with you.
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Does your diver door still have the original copper, brass whatever it was link arms that connect it? I always thought about some kind of hidden sash weight, spring return system that could eliminate the clunkly link arms and still remain period with the times. I now know I have way to much time on my hands if I'm trying to redesign the original concept. But since I'm off until after Thanksgiving, I can potificate till the Armadillo comes home.
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Thanks seabob4, the door mounts flush into the recess but i guess the recess could be adjusted. Good idea, I'll keep it in mind.
The reason I suggested this is that the diver models I've seen, the diver himself has to hoist his butt up onto the door, not an easy task even given buoyancy. With stand-offs for the ladder mounts it could be done...
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The door does have it original brass hardware. What we have discussed is looking into a sailboat block system like Harken. The goal for this and the rest of the boat is no rattle and easy maintainance. Eugene had this block idea before we got started so I'm sure well spend some time on that detail in the near future to finalize his thoughts.
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Does your diver door still have the original copper, brass whatever it was link arms that connect it? I always thought about some kind of hidden sash weight, spring return system that could eliminate the clunkly link arms and still remain period with the times. I now know I have way to much time on my hands if I'm trying to redesign the original concept. But since I'm off until after Thanksgiving, I can potificate till the Armadillo comes home.
How about a remotely operated electro-mechanical servo-hydraulic, recessed and hidden. It opens, softly illuminated with romantic lighting, and Barry White coos in the background :salut:
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Mount gudgeon flush in door. I'm with you.
Quick quiz, all. What are the gudgeons? I never knew this until a few years ago...
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Mount gudgeon flush in door. I'm with you.
Quick quiz, all. What are the gudgeons? I never knew this until a few years ago...
Why it's a socket for a rudder pintle.... So what the hell is that?
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Mount gudgeon flush in door. I'm with you.
Quick quiz, all. What are the gudgeons? I never knew this until a few years ago...
Why it's a socket for a rudder pintle.... So what the hell is that?
Ah yes, the rudder pintle...blowboaters, you know...
The guys at Windline and Garelick call them that...the "feet" that mount to the deck on a swing down swim ladder. Think that term sort of got bastardized in this application. BUT IT STUCK!
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im guessing she's gonna get a closed transom?
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So I'm getting in another post or two before leaving the good old US of A and being incommunicado. Rick, I don't have any problem in injecting a little banter and levity in to the thread. I don't really see that as derailing, but rather good clean fun. It's not like Ashley and I will stop posting update photos and tips simply b/c there is some fun discourse going on. I started the thread w/ Ashley's approval, and we say let 'er eat boys. Tatties and beer (and other David Allen Coe songs for that matter) seem wholly appropriate tangential discussions to me. We'll keep posting rebuild photos and descriptions amidst the friendly chatter.
Incidentally, I tend to have minor chest pains for the first 2 days w/out internet and cell phone access. After the second night, I really don't miss it.
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Great boat, great builder, and great thread!
Have you ever added a diver type platform to a hull that was not originally a "Diver"?
Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing!
Charlie
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Charlie,
It is easy to place a dive door detent in a hull mold w/ a receiver placed in the actual mold w/ clean clay radiuses. It is exponentially harder and more time consuming (costly) to do on a rebuild. It can be done, just not quickly or cheaply.
Roll Tide my arse. The mighty Commodores were your homecoming game 2 of the 4 years while I was at Vandy. I do pull for the Tide when they are playing the Gators (who also seem to schedule the whipping post of the SEC as their homecoming game w/ some degree of frequency). Go Dores. See, it's friendly banter, not a derail.
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im guessing she's gonna get a closed transom?
Aaron, yes, an open transom. Eugene has a custom plan for the transom. Stay tuned, it's great thinking.
Rick:
Edit: Addressing your "derail" post, since deleted:
There is a fine line between natural flow and derail. In this instance, from a technical standpoint, this afternoons' input may have been construed by some as "derail". However, your judgement was most likely skewed by Lew's comment "Thread of the Year."
It is great for our club to have a professional builder that inputs here. As Eugene has stated, this is how they do it commercially. Time is money, and they get it done. But my word...this ain't a Gougeon Brothers technical thread.
I will be the first to say that Eugene could care less about interjected/related/topic-derived/ slightly to quite amusing discourse on his thread.
ashley:
Welcome! You have a rare and desirable sweet "skin" to start...and one of the best rebuild shops in the country capable of turning your dream to reality.
Good deal, we're looking forward to your build :thumright:
PS...after spending 20 minutes on this post, went to post, see other posts before. Not going back to change, takes too much time. ....Here's the post friends.
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Scott, you crack me up!!!
Gotta go catch a train... :thumright: :thumright:
And now that I read back, I'd say Eugene de-railed his own thread! How dare he!
Go Gators, Eugene... :cheers: :cheers:
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Driskell for president!
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Scott, you crack me up!!!
Gotta go catch a train... :thumright: :thumright:
And now that I read back, I'd say Eugene de-railed his own thread! How dare he!
:cheers:
You can't derail your own thread! Cain't be did... :rambo:
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Scott, you crack me up!!!
Gotta go catch a train... :thumright: :thumright:
And now that I read back, I'd say Eugene de-railed his own thread! How dare he!
:cheers:
You can't derail your own thread! Cain't be did... :rambo:
Rule 11.2.98, De-railment, sub-part D-
"The OP can NOT de-rail a thread..."
Well you're right, CJ!
Back to our regularly scheduled programming...
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Woo -David Allen Coe-"I gagged Linda Lovelace" a true classic among others.
Hey Eugene is it ok for is part time boat guys get a peek,
Gettin ready to do a 190
Need tips from the "Pro"
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Yo bro,
Eugene is abroad on fam vacation for awhile, most likely limited 'net. Have a great time Eugene :thumright:
Give him a holler when he gets back, all AS members are welcome there.
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Soon as Maggie gets home, gonna stop in myself.
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Eugene wrote - Transom core is glassed in. It was first constructed out of 2 sheets of 3/4" Penske board laminated together with 2x 3/4 mat between them. The 1.5" transom core was then clamped onto the transom with 3 x 3/4 mat between the core and the transom. After clamping overnight, the edges were smoothed with a filet of putty and 3/4 oz mat and 3x 1708 were glassed over top.
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(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/photo1.jpg)
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(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/photo2.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/photo3.jpg)
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Oohh, pretty! So what's our final laminate before it get's gelled? 3610? Or is that gonna be it? Maybe a couple layers of 3610?
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Completed transom lam schedule is as follows:
3/4 oz mat
3 x 1708
3 x 3/4 oz mat (clamped between core and outer transom lams)
3/4" Penske, 3/4 oz mat, 3/4" Penske (1.5" core)
3 x 1708
3/4 oz mat
Remember that the hullside and bottom laminates extend w/ overlaps 6" into the outer skin laminates of the transom as well prior to clamping of the core. Easy and effective way to beef up the lam schedule.
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(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab19/group_w_bench/Hefner/bottombraces.jpg)
The boat is leveled on the dolly and hook/sag taken out of bottom by bracing 2x6 along the chine until the hook falls out of the bottom. We just putty the uprights in place on the floor and long 2x6 and don't move them until we flip the boat. Hooks form in these old boats, and many restored flatbacks have trouble getting the bow up b/c the hook is most pronounced in the flat aft section.
Some folks have asked about the hook concept referenced in an earlier post. I may have not provided a sufficient explanation for the concept of the hook in the hull and the importance of bracing to mitigate the hook on rebuilds. A hook is an upward indention/inversion in the hull that can be intentional, but is more often the result of the weight of a boat resting on bunks or braces for a prolonged period of time. Many flatbacks have developed these hooks from trailer bunks. They generally appear 2-3 feet forward of the transom.
Hooks can be advantageous in applications such as ski boats where you want to keep the bow down. In a flatback, a hook will tend to make it difficult to free the bow while running, as the hook creates transom lift. That is why bracing and jacking up these flatbacks off the dolly bunks until the hook falls out is imperative. That is also one of the advantages of fully removing all stringers rather than simply cutting off the tops. It is easier to manipulate the gutted hull to a flat bottom again prior to glassing the bottom running surface. I hope that clears up some confusion.
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It is easier to manipulate the gutted hull to a flat bottom again prior to glassing the bottom running surface
Did you do something physical to manipulate the hook out or just rely on gravity?
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Great explanation of what a hook is. I’ll have to remember that, when trying to explain hull hooks to others. That’s also why I think it is important to support the hull and the transom with bunks. To prevent hooks from happening. I never liked roller trailers for that reason. Traveling over the road and your boat bouncing up and down on rollers never appealed to me. I may be wrong, but I think you can never have enough support for your hull and transom.
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Hooks are like built in trim tabs. The unfortunate thing is, sometimes we don't want to use our tabs!
Many times hooks are actually added to a running surface in an attempt to correct porpoising. They can also be added to one side or another to offset a boat imbalance rather than add a bunch of lead to one side or the other. The Proline 26 Express sports the exact same hull as the 26 Super Sport, with the addition of a hook on the starboard side to compensate for glass imbalance. Between the cabin glass weight and the starboard helm station (as opposed to the centered helm on the SS), too much lead was required, hence, the hook.
Remember when I was at Hydra-Sports, they brought in a bigger boat (around 27) that porpoised like mad. Added bigger Bennett tabs AND hooks on both sides...
But back to "unintended" hooks. Gravity, as well as sunshine and weight, can straighten out a hull bottom. The key is to "maintain" the intended bottom shape, such that when she starts to bend the other way, she doesn't go too far. Just like fixing a twisted pulpit on a boat where either the hull or deck were pulled "green", in other words, too early from the molds, nothing to hold the shape anymore, usually exhibits that quality in a pulpit that is twisted to one side. Deck the boat, and the whole pulpit is twisted. There is a way to fix that little problem...
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Did you do something physical to manipulate the hook out or just rely on gravity?[/quote]
Bob,
Gravity will do the trick just fine if the stringers are removed. I think the same would hold true for rebuilds where the stringers are not removed. If not, just weight the inverted areas from the top with sandbags until the aft running surface is flat on a straightedge.
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Bob,
Gravity will do the trick just fine if the stringers are removed. I think the same would hold true for rebuilds where the stringers are not removed. If not, just weight the inverted areas from the top with sandbags until the aft running surface is flat on a straightedge.
Ok then, after reading SB's post and your explanation, do you think that this condition (hook) could cause a hull like mine (WAC) to have a list to one side (port in this case) assuming that there is no additional weight as a contributing factor? This would explain my condition and is worth crawling underneath to take a look. Interesting stuff.
Thanks.
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Bob is the list while you are underway or just at rest? I would think a hook would only affect the boat while underway since it would cause a deflection of the water flow much like a trim tab.
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A hook would only effect the boat while moving. You can check it very simply. I use a 6 foot straight edge, and lay it from the transom along the bottom. I let it stick out just a 1 inch. If there is a gap between the straight edge and the bottom near the transom. You have a hook. You need to check it all along the transom. I just, slide the straight edge along the bottom from port to starboard. Checking it as I go. You don't need to use a 6 foot stright edge. I use it just because I have it. Some just use a 2 foot square because they are only interested in what is happening at the transom. Also like bob. I’ve seen them added to do just what he said some do. But sometimes you don’t want to add one, because it won’t help with some problems. A friend, had a bass boat that would porpoise and chime walk. The motor when trimmed up with the 21 pitch prop would cause it. Dealer told him to bring it in and they would add a hook to the hull. I told him it wouldn’t stop his problem. When trimmed up. The boat rode on the pad. A hook would only push the bow down. I told him to get a string ray hydro foil. We put it on the it did the trick. No more porpoise or chime walk.:mrgreen:
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List is while underway. She sits fine at rest. I noticed it when I did the sea trial a couple of years ago when I bought the boat but thought it may have been from weight distribution. Since then I have been conscious to loading placement with gear and people. Still rides port bow low but I correct with the tabs. Not a big deal but noticeable and not like either of the 170s or the CCP I have owned. I'll drag a straight edge over the underside of the hull and see what shows up.
Let's see if we can get this thread back to its author but thanks to GWB for the insight. :thumright:
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The author of the thread is Group W Bench.
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You're sorry, Scott... :wink:
A hook will present itself when underway at planing speeds. I'd take a straight edge to both starboard and port, CB, see what you have. I'd say it's pretty evident you'll find a hook or at least a bottom abnormality on starboard, but it would suck to fix that and then find starboard bow runs low...
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The author of the thread is Group W Bench.
Bravo.
Still, this thread needs to get back to his original theme.Thanking him for insight while derailing felt like the decent thing to do.
Thanks for pointing it out though, as I only read the part about the "hook". :roll:
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Eugene, what are you using for resin?
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Completed transom lam schedule is as follows:
3/4 oz mat
3 x 1708
3 x 3/4 oz mat (clamped between core and outer transom lams)
3/4" Penske, 3/4 oz mat, 3/4" Penske (1.5" core)
3 x 1708
3/4 oz mat
Remember that the hullside and bottom laminates extend w/ overlaps 6" into the outer skin laminates of the transom as well prior to clamping of the core. Easy and effective way to beef up the lam schedule.
Did you use the same visqueen, melamine and clamps approach here too that you used on the first layers supporting the outer skin?
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Rick,
The core is clamped to the transom with the same 5 clamps that we used for the melamine, but we don't use visquene. We just lay 3 x mat and wet out very thoroughly. The transom core should have 1/4 inch bleeder holes drilled every square foot or so. That way, you can actually see the resin weeping out of each hole to ensure that there are no voids. Torque clamps to ensure full bonding.
We use Reichold 344s resin on rebuilds.
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Hey got these from Eugene today. Looks like ring deck has new core and glass.
Eugene- what is the core material?
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/cap1_zps54645993.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/cap2_zps6df0e824.jpg)
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Now THAT is a donut deck! If you saw my post from another thread, that, in the business, is what we call a donut deck, basically a rectangular "ring" that finishes off the topsides and provides the flange for the hull-to-deck joint.
Eugene's guys do it right, you can tell from the pic... :salut: :salut:
And what's in the background, a Gheenoe rebuild? :shock:
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Speaking of old posts....check out how the top cap is set higher to the center, to mimic the curvature of the hull when right-side up.
The core is probably divinycell or similar. For sure not Home Depot foam sheathing, as used by other shops.
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Here are the latest from Eugene.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2012-12-18_14-43-22_673_zps4c23875e.jpg)
platform for fuel tank.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2012-12-18_14-47-53_668_zps4a3da661.jpg)
foamed and glassed deepest section of hull for drainage.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2012-12-18_14-43-13_355_zpsce4bb1ab.jpg)
casting deck with cast net bucket receiver.
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(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2012-12-18_15-38-47_918_zps03a93211.jpg)
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Wow!
Great ideas there ashley :thumright:
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(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2012-12-18_14-47-53_668_zps4a3da661.jpg)
foamed and glassed deepest section of hull for drainage.
The stingers are just tabbed in place w/ 3/4 oz mat right now. They will get 2 x 1708 over the entire stringers and pour foam tomorrow.
For folks restoring flatbacks, please note that water pools in the bow area of these boats on the trailer and at rest. The same goes for 24 Prolines. It is often beneficial to build a small "ramp" in the deepest part of the bow area as in the picture above. We just use 1/2 Nidacore scrap, and glass it in. We will drill a hole and foam in when foaming the stringers. This "ramp" prevents the water from pooling in the deepest v section in the bow, and directs water to the 1" drains that run under the fuel tank.
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That casting deck looks familiar!
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That casting deck looks familiar!
That cast net bucket drop-in is dechit.
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damn that things lookin slick!!
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That casting deck looks familiar!
That cast net bucket drop-in is dechit.
Scotty, no offense my friend, but the bucket receiver is fairly common down here. We did our first at PL in '06 on the 29 Grand Sport, sure it was copied from someone else...
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Gotcha bro. The concept is totally foreign up here.
Kudos to the originator....terrific idea.
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(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2012-12-19_09-53-01_825_zpse3509eeb.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2012-12-19_10-38-43_573_zpsa12ec346.jpg)
Stringers glassed down. I believe this is before they have been foamed and before adding height to the stringers for self bailing deck.
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Limber holes in and stringers foamed.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2012-12-20_11-59-41_162_zps48058cf3.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2012-12-20_11-57-38_930_zps9353ff83.jpg)
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Raised stringers. I believe thats Penske board, same as transom, on top of stringers for future tower/T top substructure.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2012-12-20_14-10-00_587_zps72ba47a4.jpg)
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They are getting there :thumright: Looks good!!
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Does anyone have a picture of the finished cast net bucket part of that hatch? Sharp idea,, but I was thinking maybe in a different location. Is it designed for a universal 5gal bucket?
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Does anyone have a picture of the finished cast net bucket part of that hatch? Sharp idea,, but I was thinking maybe in a different location. Is it designed for a universal 5gal bucket?
Check out shortpants' 1973 222 redo. I think page 13.
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Obviously the stringers were fab'd, wonder why the stringers were not just made taller :scratch:
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Obviously the stringers were fab'd, wonder why the stringers were not just made taller :scratch:
The original stringers were reused. Here it is after they glassed them in.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2012-12-20_15-51-44_18_zpse57c0d25.jpg)
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Wow, after seeing them on the parking lot in page 1 I assumed they were toast. :oops:
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Wow, after seeing them on the parking lot in page 1 I assumed they were toast. :oops:
yea, I was wondering how they were going to do that as well, after seeing that photo.
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It is really interesting the changes to the flatback stringer system over a relatively short period of time. First offering was plywood, albeit short-lived. Then the drop in one piece, '66-'67. Now these two beefcakes in '68. Then some of them had five stringers with two outboard longitudinal "nubs" for a total of seven.
The problem with dating is, they're so old...and transom #'s are long gone. On an old wet registration, a 7 may look like a 9, etc. Sure would be neat to date them by stringer configuration, have something we can hang our hats on in terms of actual production year. Or that my be out the door....they may have used systems in combo, depending on what they had, etc.
We can speculate/conjecture...But unless we can find a shop foreman who was 25 years old in 1970... :(
May be wrong...but from the looks of these two stringers...they appear bigger and badder than the two stringers on the following generation 12 degree 22-2.
Neat stuff :thumright:
Nice ride :rendeer:
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Scott,
This boat originally had the 5 stringer configuration to which you were referring. We only reuse the 2 inner stingers and trash the center and chine stringers. We will build bulkheads both between and outboard of the stingers.
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Thanks Eugene.
That keeps the timetable intact.
Still impressed with the size of the stringers. For posterity's sake, it would be great if you could take a width measurement of a single stringer at the hull base amidships so there exists a comparison from the original to the next generation 22-2.
You're getting the same job as always....outstanding :thumright:
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Bulkheads going in.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2012-12-21_15-45-01_224_zpsc3a6658b.jpg)
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Nidacore bulkheads?
Capt Matt
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Looks like the deck is going in soon.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2012-12-31_11-50-28_808_zps9146167c.jpg)
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Each time I see this thread I think Hugh!
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Sweet job on the high density inlay....the T Top will be mounted to some meat there.
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Nidacore bulkheads?
Capt Matt
Matt, we used Nidacore b/heads on all the Prolines that didn't have a glass stringer grid. Ours were 2" thick. Came in pre-cut kits from DIAB...
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Sweet job on the high density inlay....the T Top will be mounted to some meat there.
What material is being used for the inlay, and what material is being used for the rest of the deck? And are there any special interface requirements where the two meet, or are they just glassed on both the top and bottom?
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Each time I see this thread I think Hugh!
x2!
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Gotta love nidacore for bulkheads. Wish they made it with a lil more glass on the skins though! Whats your guys' method for filling the cells and bonding the sole? Arjay probably eh? Neverbeen a fan of the nidabond stuff. Fasteners?...
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Gotta love nidacore for bulkheads. Wish they made it with a lil more glass on the skins though! Whats your guys' method for filling the cells and bonding the sole? Arjay probably eh? Neverbeen a fan of the nidabond stuff. Fasteners?...
Check out page 11 of shortpants' 222 redo. Its all a chemical bond, not sure what there using for bedding?
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Deck is in. You can see the flush folding sea door recess as well as the rigging tub recesses. The half rounds in the transom corner are to be chases for trolling trim tabs.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-07_16-05-51_739_zps149a40ff.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-07_16-06-01_529_zps4de3f048.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-07_16-06-11_999_zps922d7b69.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-07_16-10-56_485_zpsc4bb41d8.jpg)
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lookin good!!! whats she gettin for power? twins?
man i need to swing by eugene's shop, its been a little while.
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lookin good!!! whats she gettin for power? twins?
man i need to swing by eugene's shop, its been a little while.
Thanks, not sure about power, but it will have single. I might wait for 2014 Yamaha 4 cylnder 200hp? Etec 200, Suzuki 175?
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Sweet job on the high density inlay....the T Top will be mounted to some meat there.
What material is being used for the inlay, and what material is being used for the rest of the deck? And are there any special interface requirements where the two meet, or are they just glassed on both the top and bottom?
Up here we call it "Duralloy". It is a heavy, high density synthetic that takes the place of plywood. It will hold screws.
Because of its weight it should be used only where needed for mechanical bonding applications. It is glassed in.
It is shown here installed on stringer tops:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6763&start=30 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6763&start=30)
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Sweet job on the high density inlay....the T Top will be mounted to some meat there.
What material is being used for the inlay, and what material is being used for the rest of the deck? And are there any special interface requirements where the two meet, or are they just glassed on both the top and bottom?
Up here we call it "Duralloy". It is a heavy, high density synthetic that takes the place of plywood. It will hold screws.
Because of its weight it should be used only where needed for mechanical bonding applications. It is glassed in.
It is shown here installed on stringer tops:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6763&start=30 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6763&start=30)
Thanks Gran398, as I understand it, he put a 3/4 sheet of Penske on top of the stringer and a 3/4 sheet Penske in the deck at the loctions above the stringers giving 1.5" of material to screw to. The rest of the deck is 3/4 Nida core. The deck is built in reverse, like from a mold, meaning 1st gel coat, glass, core, glass and flip over.
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Thanks for the info/details Ashley and Scott - good information there.
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More progress, casting deck, rod tubes, fairing.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-17_10-47-08_119_zps715660a1.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-17_10-47-15_825_zpsd98f74c9.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-17_10-47-25_89_zps314a6a9f.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-17_10-47-44_882_zpse27c3543.jpg)
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REALLY nice! Bet you're getting excited huh!! :salut:
Saw the Shipokes at the show last weekend. They make a top drawer product....and their rebuilds are equally impressive.
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Good old Dykem blue...we used to use it when scribing hole locations at Lockheed. Spray a bit on, scribe your location, shows up like a spotlight on a dark night. Equally great, as Eugene is using it, to find high and low spots...
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REALLY nice! Bet you're getting excited huh!! :salut:
Saw the Shipokes at the show last weekend. They make a top drawer product....and their rebuilds are equally impressive.
Thanks, very excited and Eugene has been great to work with.
Anyone have an IN hull transducer? Never had one and thinking about getting garmins sub $400 model.
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REALLY nice! Bet you're getting excited huh!! :salut:
Saw the Shipokes at the show last weekend. They make a top drawer product....and their rebuilds are equally impressive.
Thanks, very excited and Eugene has been great to work with.
Anyone have an IN hull transducer? Never had one and thinking about getting garmins sub $400 model.
They are the best in quality imaging from a purist standpoint.
Trust the pro's thinking on this... here on CAS, we have professional builders, licensed captains, guides, riggers, expert fisherman, lobster hunters, sportsmen, scallopers, chit-talkers, horse thieves, and nar do wells.
Certainly someone above :lol: can expound on the differences between a thru-hull transducer (in the old days were contained within an oil bath) and a transom mounted transducer.
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Ashley,
In regards to a "shoot-thru-the-hull" ducer, walk the docks and find someone who uses one on a daily/weekly basis. See what he thinks...
Eugene knows how to install them. No coring, solid glass. Mineral oil is the bath she needs to sit in. The bigger 2KW in-hulls nest in anti-freeze (propyline Glycol)...
And I AM a subscribed neer-do-well...
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Duratec high build primer.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-18_13-10-34_98_zps02fbccea.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-18_13-10-27_221_zpsb92ec054.jpg)
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(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-18_13-10-18_91_zpscd644d46.jpg)
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Caps on and more progress. They should be flipping soon.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-23_16-30-10_35_zps150fb1df.jpg)
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(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-23_16-30-20_828_zps355ed82a.jpg)
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Sea door in up position with gussets.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-25_09-28-04_367_zps9ce5ab70.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-25_09-28-14_551_zps284dfe53.jpg)
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Beautiful!
Great job guys :thumright:
Ashley, have you decided on the engine install?
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Beautiful!
Great job guys :thumright:
Ashley, have you decided on the engine install?
Hey, thanks. I got a good deal on a used etec 150ho from Eugene.
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Beautiful!
Great job guys :thumright:
Ashley, have you decided on the engine install?
Hey, thanks. I got a good deal on a used etec 150ho from Eugene.
That will be perfect. He had a 150 HO at the boat show...it was impressive.
As you're aware...Bombardier plays it coy on the propshaft HP rating for that engine. Suffice it to say she'll be a ball 'o fire. Looking forward to seeing the performance numbers. Open transom...betcha she'll run 37 at 4300...just loping along :salut:
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Whooooweee, she looks awesome
I agree, I think you'll be really happy with a 150, (perfect for a flatback.) Remember these boats dont require high horsepower to get moving.
Hey ashley, where about's are you located?
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Beautiful!
Great job guys :thumright:
Ashley, have you decided on the engine install?
Hey, thanks. I got a good deal on a used etec 150ho from Eugene.
That will be perfect. He had a 150 HO at the boat show...it was impressive.
As you're aware...Bombardier plays it coy on the propshaft HP rating for that engine. Suffice it to say she'll be a ball 'o fire. Looking forward to seeing the performance numbers. Open transom...betcha she'll run 37 at 4300...just loping along :salut:
That's what I'm hoping for (37 @4300) with a top end in the low 40's. I'll get back to you on that.
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Whooooweee, she looks awesome
I agree, I think you'll be really happy with a 150, (perfect for a flatback.) Remember these boats dont require high horsepower to get moving.
Hey ashley, where about's are you located?
Ya, wanted to stay light w open transom. I'm in Beaufort S.C. just south of Charleston on the coast.
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(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-29_09-43-39_54_zps0342fb97.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-01-29_09-43-51_900_zpsbd99d3fb.jpg)
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Gotta like that door :wink:
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Coming along nicely, they really are doing a superb job on your boat :salut:
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Interested to see if you opt for the keel extention
Capt Matt
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Interested to see if you opt for the keel extention
Capt Matt
What do you think Capt. Matt?
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Interested to see if you opt for the keel extention
Capt Matt
What do you think Capt. Matt?
I am not Capt. Matt but I can tell you from experience that if you have ever been in a flat back,fully trimmed up and running close to WOT and done a 180 you would opt for the keel extension.
I have been and it is not a fun ride. Even with my keel extended on my PL 24 flat back my boat slides and if I am not careful will swap ends.
It will only help the performance when turning.
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Interested to see if you opt for the keel extention
Capt Matt
What do you think Capt. Matt?
I am not Capt. Matt but I can tell you from experience that if you have ever been in a flat back,fully trimmed up and running close to WOT and done a 180 you would opt for the keel extension.
I have been and it is not a fun ride. Even with my keel extended on my PL 24 flat back my boat slides and if I am not careful will swap ends.
It will only help the performance when turning.
Capt Betz/Capt Matt/anyone else with flatback experience:
What are your thoughts on adding the bait boxes to the transom on these flatbacks? Similar to the ones Scott put on the Miss Delmarva (except for a flatback). I was wondering if you thought they would "bite" on a turn and give a little more control/traction.
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fairing continues.....
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-06_12-03-09_816_zps6fc24097.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-06_12-03-02_262_zpsd30a4770.jpg)
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I don't have a flat back but I do see where the hull would have a tendency to "slide" in a sharp power turn as apposed to having a little bite back there with a keel extension...I guess the million $ question will be your usage of the boat...on slick water will a little slide action be OK or would it not feel right :scratch:
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I don't have a flat back but I do see where the hull would have a tendency to "slide" in a sharp power turn as apposed to having a little bite back there with a keel extension...I guess the million $ question will be your usage of the boat...on slick water will a little slide action be OK or would it not feel right :scratch:
I think I'm going to leave the keel alone. The way I understand it is that with the original set up you don't need a keel extension. Boats with porta brackets have extra length and the keel should be extented.?? Anyone with a flatback with original keel out there??
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Nice work you guys.
Regarding the potential keel. Since she's flipped....now is the time to make that decision.
Will give Matt a call.... hang loose for just a bit.
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Nice work you guys.
Regarding the potential keel. Since she's flipped....now is the time to make that decision.
Will give Matt a call.... hang loose for just a bit.
Matt says without question install the extended keel.
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Nice work you guys.
Regarding the potential keel. Since she's flipped....now is the time to make that decision.
Will give Matt a call.... hang loose for just a bit.
Matt says without question install the extended keel.
Thanks man. Keel will be extended.
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Interested to see if you opt for the keel extention
Capt Matt
What do you think Capt. Matt?
I am not Capt. Matt but I can tell you from experience that if you have ever been in a flat back,fully trimmed up and running close to WOT and done a 180 you would opt for the keel extension.
I have been and it is not a fun ride. Even with my keel extended on my PL 24 flat back my boat slides and if I am not careful will swap ends.
It will only help the performance when turning.
Matt states exactly the same as Steve. The extended keel is a big plus. Minimizes sliding in narrow creeks. Particularly helpful turning in slick water.
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Eugene's got the keel extended and fairing continues.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-08_15-35-06_223_zpsf9ff802f.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-08_15-35-13_897_zps47dfd41b.jpg)
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That Eugene is quick! Any details on what materials were used? And any science behind stopping it at that point? I'll be doing the same thing to mine eventually.
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That is damn clean job.
A lot more to it than appears.
Sweet work guys :salut:
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i will also be extending my keel when that point comes.
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That Eugene is quick! Any details on what materials were used? And any science behind stopping it at that point? I'll be doing the same thing to mine eventually.
The core material was Penski board. Not sure about length yet?
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See if he can snap a pic looking almost straight down the keel?
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Sorry I was not here to chine in lol
the keel extention is a must do in my opinion, I made mine from coosa and it looks just like yours stopping about a foot from the transom.
The problem with these boats arises in flat calm water making a sharp turn, when there is a chop they don't slide much. It seems with so much surface area in the water the hull will kick from one side over to the other while making a turn. Simply slow down when making a turn and you will have no issues. I have trim tabs on mine which when down a little help some with the slide thing. Trim tabs are a must on these boats as a beam wind will blow one side down and get u wet, the tabs also greatly reduce the amount of water it takes to get up on plane and will keep you dry no matter what the chop is doing.
Even with the keel extention there is a learning curve to running a flatback boat, its unlike any boat I have ever ran before. Its not a bad thing it just takes a little time to get used to. When the boat is in super shallow water running on plane it seems to make a bubble on the surface of the water, you will feel the bow go down and the stern come up, By having so much hull in the water while on plane you kinda make your own water.
After having this boat in the water well over a year in still amazes me how shallow it runs, yet if you take your time in the rough stuff its crazy dry and smooth. These old flatbacks are a hybrid, giving you the best of both worlds.
If you ever have a question and I'm not on here feel free to call me, my number is on my fishing website
Capt Matt
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Sorry I was not here to chine in lol
the keel extention is a must do in my opinion, I made mine from coosa and it looks just like yours stopping about a foot from the transom.
The problem with these boats arises in flat calm water making a sharp turn, when there is a chop they don't slide much. It seems with so much surface area in the water the hull will kick from one side over to the other while making a turn. Simply slow down when making a turn and you will have no issues. I have trim tabs on mine which when down a little help some with the slide thing. Trim tabs are a must on these boats as a beam wind will blow one side down and get u wet, the tabs also greatly reduce the amount of water it takes to get up on plane and will keep you dry no matter what the chop is doing.
Even with the keel extention there is a learning curve to running a flatback boat, its unlike any boat I have ever ran before. Its not a bad thing it just takes a little time to get used to. When the boat is in super shallow water running on plane it seems to make a bubble on the surface of the water, you will feel the bow go down and the stern come up, By having so much hull in the water while on plane you kinda make your own water.
After having this boat in the water well over a year in still amazes me how shallow it runs, yet if you take your time in the rough stuff its crazy dry and smooth. These old flatbacks are a hybrid, giving you the best of both worlds.
If you ever have a question and I'm not on here feel free to call me, my number is on my fishing website
Capt Matt
Great information, I've actaully never even ridden in a flatback and have bought this hull based on how I thought it would preform. I am defintely going with trim tabs, hopefully be able to swing trolling trim tabs.
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Not a fan of the trolling tabs, not much control compared to a bow mount and every set I have ever known has broken. If you are chasing tarpon they are ok, but when trying to work a shoreline they sux
I went with a 36V I-pilot and love it, the anchor feature and track feature are awesome. I am on my second remote but no major problems yet. Mounted it on a removable bracket with a plug too so I can take it off when not in use
Capt Matt
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Not a fan of the trolling tabs, not much control compared to a bow mount and every set I have ever known has broken. If you are chasing tarpon they are ok, but when trying to work a shoreline they sux
I went with a 36V I-pilot and love it, the anchor feature and track feature are awesome. I am on my second remote but no major problems yet. Mounted it on a removable bracket with a plug too so I can take it off when not in use
Capt Matt
Ditto on that - even the 24V bow mount will work better than the trolling tabs, and the I-pilot is very cool... 8)
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Not a fan of the trolling tabs, not much control compared to a bow mount and every set I have ever known has broken. If you are chasing tarpon they are ok, but when trying to work a shoreline they sux
I went with a 36V I-pilot and love it, the anchor feature and track feature are awesome. I am on my second remote but no major problems yet. Mounted it on a removable bracket with a plug too so I can take it off when not in use
Capt Matt
Ditto on that - even the 24V bow mount will work better than the trolling tabs, and the I-pilot is very cool... 8)
Expensive too. Thanks
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Expensive too.
yup, you can buy an AS ready for rebuild for less. :roll:
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I-pilot is still less $ than trolling tabs
Even with 3 batteries, on board charger, custom bracket, and install.
I had my boat in a few months before making money to add the trolling motor
Your mid rebuild, by now you know its only money
Good luck
Capt Matt
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(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-18_11-39-36_498_zps4a398988.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-18_11-39-15_477_zps7b1643ad.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-18_11-39-02_156_zps09082f21.jpg)
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I especially like the idea of filling the floor up near the bow. Also great ideas on getting out the "hook".
Thanks for posting this stuff!
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The gel coat is on the bottom. Blue dye applied for sanding.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-21_09-02-23_559_zps991149f2.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-21_09-02-16_299_zps3aeb745d.jpg)
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Gel coat is buffed out. Not sure if there going to flip to do the sides are leave it upside down. The sides will be Awlgrip.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-22_10-36-04_538_zps258e210c.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-22_10-35-26_866_zps9d6f9cc1.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-22_10-35-38_147_zps43c52ba7.jpg)
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They have primed the sides and are board sanding. Painting this Fri.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-27_10-59-26_947_zpscbbdf900.jpg)
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man that think is lookin slick!
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Yup, very nice workmanship :salut:
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Coming along very nicely, hull looks great :salut:
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Wow, she is looking really good. Im curious, why gel on the bottom/transom and Paint on the sides?
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Wow, she is looking really good. Im curious, why gel on the bottom/transom and Paint on the sides?
Hey, thanks. The bottom has gel coat for durability, pulling up to beaches, oyster etc. The sides are paint just cause that is what we agreed to for cost reasons. I didn't know he was going to gel the transom but I 'm cool with it.
Here is the diver door (which has gel coat for some reason) being put in. Looks great Eugene!
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-28_11-23-15_708_zpseb24e450.jpg)
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Ashley, she is looking great....that door is THE HEAT :mrgreen: :thumright:
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Ashley, she is looking great....that door is THE HEAT :mrgreen: :thumright:
Thanks, heading down in a week to figure out console etc.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-28_11-23-36_893_zpsebb6ea93.jpg)
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Just checked my email and found these. They decided to paint today. Its a light grey and the bottom/ transom is a bright white.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-28_18-38-23_649_zps4bcaeba5.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-28_18-37-56_199_zps7916fbbf.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-28_18-37-47_264_zps874d72d5.jpg)
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Sweet :salut:
Looking back....this is a FUN part of the rebuild :thumright:
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Looking great, Ashley! Is the diver door white like the bottom or light grey like the sides?
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The dive door is painted in grey to match the topsides. The inside of the door will have the same nonskid as the deck for sure footing when climbing in/out. I'm really excited about the redesign of the hinging and opening/closing mechanism. It should prove to be a lot more functional and less fugly than the original design.
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Here is the diver door (which has gel coat for some reason) being put in. Looks great Eugene!
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-28_11-23-15_708_zpseb24e450.jpg)[/quote]
It is actually the APF 7 fairing compound. Ashley, you are used to seeing the fairing material after it has been blue dyed in all the pictures but this one. This dive door has already been faired so the blue dye is no longer visible.
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Here is the diver door (which has gel coat for some reason) being put in. Looks great Eugene!
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-02-28_11-23-15_708_zpseb24e450.jpg)
It is actually the APF 7 fairing compound. Ashley, you are used to seeing the fairing material after it has been blue dyed in all the pictures but this one. This dive door has already been faired so the blue dye is no longer visible.[/quote]
Yeah that was my 2nd guess, APF 7 :D
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The dive door is painted in grey to match the topsides. The inside of the door will have the same nonskid as the deck for sure footing when climbing in/out. I'm really excited about the redesign of the hinging and opening/closing mechanism. It should prove to be a lot more functional and less fugly than the original design.
Went back through the thread so....
We haven't seen the hinge assembly yet correct? This is what I'm waiting for because the side platform was a big deal in those days.
A rope would be an upgrade so post up when the mechanism gets installed. :thumright:
"Fugly" is being rather PC to say the least. :roll:
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(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-03-01_09-46-01_219_zps614dc3d8.jpg)
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(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-03-01_09-45-43_633_zps3e4d0cd1.jpg)
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I know your getting really stoked now, That paint looks perfect. You picked an excellent builder and Im sure you'll be happy for many years to come.
So when you come back into town to pick her up, are you gonna stick around and run her in the gulf for a bit?
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That is one hot hull.
She shows her lines even better upside down.
Nice paint job Eugene :thumright:
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I know your getting really stoked now, That paint looks perfect. You picked an excellent builder and Im sure you'll be happy for many years to come.
So when you come back into town to pick her up, are you gonna stick around and run her in the gulf for a bit?
Thanks, yeah I thinking I may have to do some fishing while I'm down there.
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I know these waters pretty well, having lived here my whole life. :thumright:
"if you cant tell already, Im itching for a ride on that fine girl"
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I know these waters pretty well, having lived here my whole life. :thumright:
"if you cant tell already, Im itching for a ride on that fine girl"
Ha, I hear ya, sounds good let's see how the schedule goes!
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Looks like there close to flipping back over.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-03-04_13-32-00_84_zps9c5745c0.jpg)
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Boy... I want to know how are they going to flip her back over without scratching up all that purdy shine?
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Boy... I want to know how are they going to flip her back over without scratching up all that purdy shine?
Wingtime,
You have to use both hands and hold your tongue just the right way.
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That is one hot hull.
She shows her lines even better upside down.
Nice paint job Eugene :thumright:
:shock: Shhhhhhhhhhhhhh..... I was always told not to use the words Hull and upside down in the same post..... :mrgreen:
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Was up at the Shipoke Shop today picking up my boat after having a few small/minor issues taken care of and looked at the Ashley Flatty. What an unbelievable job the guys at the shop are doing. For a 1968 it looks FANTASTIC! The fit and finish is bar none. Great job guys :cheers:
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Interior primed and moving ahead.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-03-22_08-17-32_536_zpsb67049cc.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-03-22_08-17-20_435_zpscbdf0705.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-03-22_15-50-33_970_zps09c557fb.jpg)
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Was up at the Shipoke Shop today picking up my boat after having a few small/minor issues taken care of and looked at the Ashley Flatty. What an unbelievable job the guys at the shop are doing. For a 1968 it looks FANTASTIC! The fit and finish is bar none. Great job guys :cheers:
Thanks shortpants, good to hear!
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Good lookin'! :thumright:
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lookin good! i may swing by the shop tomorrow afternoon to take a peek.
i see a familiar sea craft in the back ground
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lookin good! i may swing by the shop tomorrow afternoon to take a peek.
i see a familiar sea craft in the back ground
Cool, send me a picture if you can. I'm on photo restrictions :cyclops:
Just kidding Eugene
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lookin good! i may swing by the shop tomorrow afternoon to take a peek.
i see a familiar sea craft in the back ground
Saw that too. Needs a new motor...vintage mid late 90s Merc...
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lookin good! i may swing by the shop tomorrow afternoon to take a peek.
i see a familiar sea craft in the back ground
Cool, send me a picture if you can. I'm on photo restrictions :cyclops:
Just kidding Eugene
Ashley...you have the real-deal Flatback there bro...and a hot resto too :thumright:
I'd LOVE to have your ride. You and Eugene are getting another sweet job.
Tried to figure out a way to have two...guess that's why Craig has my former '67 :mrgreen:
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lookin good! i may swing by the shop tomorrow afternoon to take a peek.
i see a familiar sea craft in the back ground
Cool, send me a picture if you can. I'm on photo restrictions :cyclops:
Just kidding Eugene
Ashley...you have the real-deal Flatback there bro...and a hot resto too :thumright:
I'd LOVE to have your ride. You and Eugene are getting another sweet job.
Tried to figure out a way to have two...guess that's why Craig has my former '67 :mrgreen:
Thanks, I'm a big fan of Miss D as well. Can't wait to get on the aqua.
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lookin good! i may swing by the shop tomorrow afternoon to take a peek.
i see a familiar sea craft in the back ground
Cool, send me a picture if you can. I'm on photo restrictions :cyclops:
Just kidding Eugene
Ashley...you have the real-deal Flatback there bro...and a hot resto too :thumright:
I'd LOVE to have your ride. You and Eugene are getting another sweet job.
Tried to figure out a way to have two...guess that's why Craig has my former '67 :mrgreen:
And I'm hoping it comes out half as good as yours and Ashley's!
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stopped by Eugene's shop today to discuss a deck and stuff for my flat back. walked over and checked out Ashley's flat back, that thing is SWEET!!!
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stopped by Eugene's shop today to discuss a deck and stuff for my flat back. walked over and checked out Ashley's flat back, that thing is SWEET!!!
Great, can't wait to get some photos! Thanks
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Got these pictures today. Non-skid is on and looks like rigging will be soon. Console is not glassed down yet and is out of position.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-04-18_09-16-41_486_zpsfb631e6c.jpg)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-04-18_09-16-25_270_zps30085674.jpg)
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Looking fantastic Ashley! I'm hoping to get down to Eugene's shop next Friday and see it in person :thumleft: .
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Looks very nice. :salut:
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Thanks y'all, here is the latest of the boat with console in position.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-05-02_10-23-17_4_zps9ecd8267.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/ashleyhefner/media/2013-05-02_10-23-17_4_zps9ecd8267.jpg.html)
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(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-05-02_10-20-26_992_zps83cd9cb5.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/ashleyhefner/media/2013-05-02_10-20-26_992_zps83cd9cb5.jpg.html)
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Flip up splashwell?
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Flip up splashwell?
Yes
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looks sharp! I like that color.
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Looks amazing!
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she looks even better in person!!!
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Ashley she looks phenomenal.
One of the most pleasing aspects of the flatback is the integral spray rail on the deck cap. Especially as it wraps at the bow. Man...yours really seems to pop.
Her lines....know you must be stoked :thumright:
PS..[edit]..could you input on tank discussion on Oldschool's thread? tx
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I love my splashwell door on my boat. Looking really nice!
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Here is the diver door post Eugenied.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-05-03_10-06-45_868_zps09f46939.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/ashleyhefner/media/2013-05-03_10-06-45_868_zps09f46939.jpg.html)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-05-03_10-06-57_651_zpsfee260b2.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/ashleyhefner/media/2013-05-03_10-06-57_651_zpsfee260b2.jpg.html)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-05-03_10-07-27_245_zps7390967e.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/ashleyhefner/media/2013-05-03_10-07-27_245_zps7390967e.jpg.html)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-05-03_10-18-36_959_zpsbd14cbb3.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/ashleyhefner/media/2013-05-03_10-18-36_959_zpsbd14cbb3.jpg.html)
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Sailboat crap does come in handy sometimes! Pretty slick setup...
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Man!!
:cheers: :cheers:
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Look at the shine on that thang! :salut: Eugene has done some nice work there. :thumleft:
Gonna hate to get it messed up with fish blood, net marks, anchor dings, etc. :oops:
Looks great - I bet you are excited. :bounce:
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Very, VERY nice looking build. You guys do great work!
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Thanks, here is better pic of the door. They're finishing up rigging the boat now and I'm picking it up this weekend.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-05-03_14-01-14_185_zps0c8466b1.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/ashleyhefner/media/2013-05-03_14-01-14_185_zps0c8466b1.jpg.html)
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Here is how we laid out the console.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/2013-05-09_12-33-08_817_zps597a6212.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/ashleyhefner/media/2013-05-09_12-33-08_817_zps597a6212.jpg.html)
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Looks awesome, Ashley! I will be there tomorrow to see it in person. When are you picking it up?
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Looks awesome, Ashley! I will be there tomorrow to see it in person. When are you picking it up?
Hey thanks, around 3:00.
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Looks awesome, Ashley! I will be there tomorrow to see it in person. When are you picking it up?
Hey thanks, around 3:00.
Ok, I'm pretty sure I'll be gone by then. Good luck with her!
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I must say, as great as it looks in pictures, it looks even better in person :thumleft: . Eugene did a great job refinishing her. Enjoy the heck out of it, Ashley!
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Left SC and took the boat to Boynton Beach FL. Crossed over to West End and then over to Elbow Cay. Burned gas at around 3mpg on the 400 mile trip.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/Mobile%20Uploads/photo-3JPG_zps7861866d.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/ashleyhefner/media/Mobile%20Uploads/photo-3JPG_zps7861866d.jpg.html)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/Mobile%20Uploads/photo-1JPG_zps5de560e2.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/ashleyhefner/media/Mobile%20Uploads/photo-1JPG_zps5de560e2.jpg.html)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/Mobile%20Uploads/imagejpeg_zps7cb0f296.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/ashleyhefner/media/Mobile%20Uploads/imagejpeg_zps7cb0f296.jpg.html)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/Mobile%20Uploads/photo-2JPG_zps7f009c63.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/ashleyhefner/media/Mobile%20Uploads/photo-2JPG_zps7f009c63.jpg.html)
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:salut: Looks like a fun trip. I plan on doing a similar trip when mine is done.
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Man, that is quite a trip! How did the flatty handle the crossing? I know it has been pretty breezy here lately. Did you go it alone, or with a group?
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I did that trip many times with my brother growing up. West end has changed a lot since those days. We use to sleep on the picnic tables at the old marina and fish all day. Next time you go 85' of water due west of sandy key is a killer reef. Seine up some glass minnows in the cove on the east side of sandy key and take them out to the reef at night. 5# flag yellowtail as fast as you can get the bait in the water.
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Man, that is quite a trip! How did the flatty handle the crossing? I know it has been pretty breezy here lately. Did you go it alone, or with a group?
We crossed over two Fridays ago around 4:30 in the morning with winds 5-10 mph out of the south and it was no problem. It was my Aquasport and a friend 24 Scout.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/IMG_5602_zps72072b1b.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/ashleyhefner/media/IMG_5602_zps72072b1b.jpg.html)
The trip back was rougher, went through a hail storm between Mangrove Cay and West End and was 10-15mph out of Southeast crossing. Got back soaked right before dark riding in the Scouts wake.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o735/ashleyhefner/photo_JPG_zpse9ea9edd.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/ashleyhefner/media/photo_JPG_zpse9ea9edd.jpg.html)