Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Fuel tanks and anything about fuel systems => Topic started by: alandry100 on November 06, 2012, 06:13:28 PM
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Had an unexpected day off due to my 3 year old having pinkeye. He is totally fine - just not able to go to daycare.
So I opened up the can of worms. Actually all things considered everything looks pretty good. A lot of slime on the top of the tank
but some of it looks great. The coffin is dry - there is one drain hole in the stern center. The coffin cover was a little squishy around the clear pie plate over the "fuel gauge"?. I am going to dry it out and see if it is rotten or just wet. If just wet I think if I over drill fill with MarineTex and drill new holes.
There was no foam, interesting wood shims, and fiberglass? padding under the strapping.
Here are some pictures - I think I am going to use the marinesurvey.com method.
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/alandry100/CF3C16D8-3B46-420F-9B53-83476A4D423F-2758-0000012A13955629.jpg)
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/alandry100/FA27CFEB-BE7E-4B77-BD22-E0942E5AB82B-2758-0000012A26EB42E1.jpg)
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/alandry100/0264B9A6-6312-4776-B59C-8146061C5014-2758-0000012A2C2614DF.jpg)
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/alandry100/7B3F1A35-E491-488F-91CC-F118A5115D2E-2758-0000012A3863CB60.jpg)
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/alandry100/2B00A44B-8FCB-4C5F-8684-486DE418BD6E-2758-0000012A3D3C4004.jpg)
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/alandry100/9362D8D3-D145-4C06-8217-84D46A143EEB-2758-0000012A31E12B54.jpg)
Any hints or advice on how to change out the fill and vent?
Also - what is the goo on the top of the tank? Is it some sort of petroleum precipitate, product of corrosion of the aluminum, or deterioration of the lines?
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The tank has been replaced at some time. Was it leaking? If not I would just clean it up and put it back together. Leave the cover out in the sun if you can and dig out around the pie plate and fill it with thickened epoxy.
I like the way they correctly placed the 2 hose clamps in different directions.
Does the fill and vent need replacing for any reason? If you do the fill line is sometimes a bear to replace. I would remove the fuel pickup anti siphon fitting and repace it with an anodized aluminum barb fitting.
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kraw - there are no leaks that I know of. The tank has not been used since 2005 when the engine was replaced. The new engine has been used on a remote tank since then. I think the fill and vent need to be replaced. I hope it is not too tricky.
So you think the tank is not original? What makes you think that. I have the surface record for the boat and do not see any tank replacement - will have to look at it again.
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kraw - there are no leaks that I know of. The tank has not been used since 2005 when the engine was replaced. The new engine has been used on a remote tank since then. I think the fill and vent need to be replaced. I hope it is not too tricky.
So you think the tank is not original? What makes you think that. I have the surface record for the boat and do not see any tank replacement - will have to look at it again.
1. Use a little mineral spirits and clean the "Florida Marine Tank" label off. The build date will be in the left corner as it is shown in your photo. That will give you a good indication as to when that tank was placed in the hull. It's not always 100% for sure but still a fair indicator.
2. You have gone this far, it would be foolish not to pull the tank out completely and inspect. Corrosion will most likely be under the straps on the side and bottom. Non use does nothing to stop the corrosion. The tank surface must remain dry to slow the inevitable down. Pin hole corrosion will be what you're looking for and I'd bet there is some on that tank.
Good luck.
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Bob - thanks - I am inclined to replace the tank regardless of what I find.
So you think the best thing to clean the goop is mineral spirits?
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Bob - thanks - I am inclined to replace the tank regardless of what I find.
So you think the best thing to clean the goop is mineral spirits?
I've seen that goop before, on an old Mako tank. That was from foam being broken down to it's petroleum derived base materials. I'd use paper toweling to get the majority of it off, than any solvent to remove the stubborn stuff.
Like Bob said, pitting type corrosion is what you are going to be looking for, especially in areas where water could have been trapped against the tank. As it stands, the tanks looks top be a mess. But pull it, get it cleaned up, and then you know what you are dealing with. Also gives you the opportunity to clean out the tank compartment and get it set up right to either re-install the old tank, or receive a new one.
If there is any evidence of corrosion, ditch the old tank and replace with a poly tank of similar dimensions...
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So you think the best thing to clean the goop is mineral spirits?
As Bob stated, most solvents will do. I prefer mineral spirits. I like to follow up with Simple Green but "odorless ms" will clean the tank coffin very well and is easier on my nose.
Before
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/Fuel_coffin_uncleaned_91_WAC.jpg)
After.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/Cleaned_battery_housing_91_WAC.jpg)
Build date on manufacturer sticker in lower right corner.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/Original_tank_sticker_91_WAC.jpg)
Hard to see but reads 11/90. This is the original tank in my 91 WAC.
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That was nice work there CB.
A quick way to get that mung off alandry would be a pressure washer, then the solvent, if you decide to reinstall. I'm with the other guys, check the tank build date. A bad or potentially bad tank is dangerous.
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If I decided to keep it I would get it pressure tested - which I imagine would cost $100 at least, if it checked out I would want to get it steam cleaned? which would cost at least $100. Seems like replacement for ~ $300 is the right option. I am really less concerned about replacing the tank than the fill and vent lines.
What should I do with the tank?
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Again...what is the tank build date?
If it isn't over say 12 years old, it is most likely worth keeping. If it looks okay...clean it up and pressure test. You can do this yourself with a bicycle pump or a 12V air pump (save the money). Plug off the outlets, pump it to 4 psi and see if it holds pressure for 24 hours. That's it. Only 4 psi.
You don't have to pay to have it steam-cleaned either. If you decide to keep it, it can be cleaned with Varsol. Good news..the decent drainage/airflow in your tank coffin. Your tank may well be salvageable.
The hoses come later, and are secondary. Sometimes they can be a bit contrary. Never seen one that has whupped us yet.
No worries. Get that tank cleaned up :thumright: and post back.
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Cleaned off the label - build date May 1978. My guess is that it is shot - but no smell of gas and I can't find any holes. I plan to replace but ... I will clean and pressure test out of curiosity. It's a long winter.
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Good deal, you have the build date.
The tank is 34 years old.
Don't even bother with a pressure test. It's toast. Rip it out, take measurements, and plan on a new tank.
Nothing lasts forever, and in the case of a questionable gas tank...be concerned for the safety of your fam and crew. A new custom aluminum tank at 9 bucks per gallon on the fab is money well spent.
Any more than 9 bucks per gallon for an aluminum tank locally...you have quality options elsewhere....even with shipping.
A fave tank supplier to our membership is located in NJ.
Will save some bucks on shipping to you...fairly close.
You previously asked about the old tank disposal. Any scrap metal yard will be happy to make money on your delivered aluminum.
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When you get a new tank have them coat it with coal tar epoxy. That will protect it if water does ever get to it. You can use the 4lb. density 2 part foam to set the tank and fill in the sides. Trim the foam off flush with the top of the tank and use epoxy resin and fiberglass tape or cloth and it will give you a watertight installation.
(http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/handi2541/1976%20Aquasport%20170/IMG_0421.jpg)
(http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa331/handi2541/1976%20Aquasport%20170/IMG_0423.jpg)
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Pulled the tank today - will post pictures - cleaning out the coffin. Will post pictures of the tank tomorrow, much of it was good, but there were some really bad spots though I don't think there were holes.
I am inclined to use the, no foam/plastic runners 5200'ed to the bottom of the coffin method.
I like the idea of a drain just in case water gets in there somehow. It seems that the tank held up ok without foam, if there weren't pieces of carpet under the tank holding water it may have held up better.
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Agreed! Go the no foam route.
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At the least get it epoxy coated then if it does get wet there will be no problem. I had the strips and 5200 but after applying the coating I used foam and glassed it in. It will be good for many years and will probably outlast the boat.
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Make sure the strips are not starboard. 5200 will not adhere to polyethylene.
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Some pictures of the tank.
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/alandry100/989DF6B2-2494-43E6-8A4C-3506532F4E3B-1165-000000568D8B153A.jpg)
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/alandry100/242DB225-46F0-4E72-9F3C-51F28B629756-1165-0000005692210DC1.jpg)
Some of the coffin, still need to clean up - the fuel and vent lines are foamed in. I started cutting away foam from behind the pie plate near the fuel fill. I think this will be the trickiest part, any hints about how to get the lines free would be appreciated. Also the wood is soft and I think rotten around the coffin lid pie plate peep hole? I guess I will have to learn how to fiberglass.
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/alandry100/58052878-3BE1-45F2-946F-CBA6613A4224-1165-0000005675112A3D.jpg)
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/alandry100/353A71E2-C77C-44C5-8E88-FCD546813CD2-1165-00000056891A71D3.jpg)
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/alandry100/97E5EAC9-F7BF-488B-A61F-AF6800BF70B8-1165-0000005684729491.jpg)
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/alandry100/A289B31C-5EF2-422B-AFF8-C690CFB1503E-1165-00000056805FA682.jpg)
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/alandry100/F9D3CE6B-FB34-4A40-8DC3-4A13D30856A4-1165-000000567C1CD072.jpg)
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/alandry100/500E6832-F063-45E5-9736-A5146C8F12C6-1165-0000005677FFE2EB.jpg)
(http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/alandry100/27C4EF73-9D84-42FF-A53B-B29FB40954A3-1165-000000566B013301.jpg)
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the fuel and vent lines are foamed in. I started cutting away foam from behind the pie plate near the fuel fill. I think this will be the trickiest part, any hints about how to get the lines free would be appreciated.
Here's a start.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=6789.msg49146#msg49146
Good luck. <!-- s:thumleft: -->:thumleft:<!-- s:thumleft: -->
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Thanks for those links. I use the search often and every time I do it "ignores" tank and fuel even thought I use the + before.
I hope the removal of the lines is not as problematic as those - yipes.
Does anyone know if there is a genuindealz.com equivalent for fuel lines...?
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I have a new WEMA 5.5" sending unit if you are interested.
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I'm going through the same process that alandry is with the tank on my 1986 Aquasport 170. Mine looked similar when I exhumed it, but I did have a bunch of pin sized holes (and a few larger) from corrosion. Before I get the new tank installed, I'm thinking about adding a one-way drain plug at the aft end of the tank basin (what he calls the coffin) so that water can exit, but not enter. Any thoughts on this solution?
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I'm going through the same process that alandry is with the tank on my 1986 Aquasport 170. Mine looked similar when I exhumed it, but I did have a bunch of pin sized holes (and a few larger) from corrosion. Before I get the new tank installed, I'm thinking about adding a one-way drain plug at the aft end of the tank basin (what he calls the coffin) so that water can exit, but not enter. Any thoughts on this solution?
That is an excellent idea. Boat goes on plane, water goes out.
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Mine has a small hole in the center aft - this seems to have kept it mostly dry.
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Alandry,
That hole in the aft center of the coffin works well until the bilge gets too full, which might happen due to rain, a failed bilge pump, or when someone forgets to put the hull drainage plug in before launching. That's why I was thinking of adding a one-way drainage valve there.
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HDSC -That is a good idea - if you find a good valve please post.
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Best to you both for good thinking. By golly, we don't need water going anywhere we can help.
If the auto bilge pump fails...operator error, the float switch failed. No need to encumber the fuel cell with an unnecessary extraneous valve. Those one way transom drain flapper valves work off of pressure from the high side....heavy pressure.
That won't occur in the coffin.
Drill a nice drain hole in the aft bulkhead of the coffin...let it seep naturally.
That's all you need, you're golden.
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I pulled the tank out of my boat and plan to replace this winter. In the meantime I was worried about water getting into the empty tank coffin so I drilled a hole in the rear base of the coffin and I plug it with a regular 1 1/4 transom screw type expansion plug. I can access it from the deck hatch I have in the stern just forward of the motor. So every once in a while I can unscrew and remove to see if any water got in there. Something to think about but just make sure you have an inch or so at the rear of the tank so the plug doesn't bump into the tank and I don't know if this would work if you are going the foam route.
Dan
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The REAL key with fuel tank compartments and installations is to keep water out of the compartment. When I install a tank hatch, I do it in a similar fashion to installing a Bomar hatch. A seriously heavy bead of silicone goes down on the hatch receiver (the little "shelf" all around the opening that the hatch rests on) such that when I screw it down, I get GOOD squeeze out all around the hatch. The once it's screwed down, fill the seams up to the deck with silicone, smooth it out, no water is going to be able to get in that compartment now, at least not through the hatch seams.
For the inspection pies over the fill/vent necks and over the pick-up/sender area, you want to use a good quality pie, not a cheapie, ones that have a serious O-ring to seal the center cap. Bed these in the same manner as the tank hatch, such that when you screw them down, you get squeeze out all the way around. These 2 operations should ensure that no water is going to get into the tank compartment via the topsides...but...
It seems that water somehow, in it's wicked and mysterious way, gets into the compartment. So, the key here is that any water that gets in there doesn't have a chance to rest and pool against the tank. That is the biggest bane to fuel tanks. In the "business", we used neoprene rubber, adhesive backed, that we apply length-wise to the bottom of the tank. Easy to install. Length-wise allows any water that enters the compartment to drain aft without any chance of it being able to pool against the tank. Regardless of the material you use, you must do this...the tank must not rest on the floor of the compartment.
Install as described above and you'll never have any problems.
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That's why I foamed mine in, epoxy coated, and waterproofed. I also use solid cover plates. No way for water to get in.
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That's why I foamed mine in, epoxy coated, and waterproofed. I also use solid cover plates. No way for water to get in.
Kraw, while solid pies eliminate a potential leak point at the seal for the center cap, they can make yearly fuel system inspections problematic. ABYC recommends them, as do I. Most owners, when they pull off the solid pie to inspect there hose clamps, hoses, and wiring, will fail to re-bed the pies upon reinstallation. Good concientious owners will do it right, but there aren't a whole lot of those types floating around out there. The twist out or pry out solves that issue...
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Just got a quote for $340 +shipping from speedy, this is a lot higher than the $9 a gallon I have heard as an estimate. Has the price of aluminum gone up?
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That sound right to me. It's at least $10 a gallon around here.
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It's a free call. Plus an additional 10% off to CAS members.
Will be interested to see how they compare to your quote.
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=9353 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=9353)
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Don't know if you have found a tank yet, but if you need a source you can contact "Florida Marine Tanks"
FMT manufactured tanks for Aquasport for many years and still has the original drawings dating back to early 70's.
FMT moved to North Carolina, and you can locate them on the internet.
Improvements to the original design include: Fuel pick-up tube moved from center to rear of tank; Fuel fill tube and vent tube moved to from center to front of tank; Electric sending unit now standard replacing visual gauge.
I would definately consider keeping a drain hole at the rear of the fuel tank compartment. You don't want to take the chance that a fuel leak would allow that compartment to flood with fuel.
Also I would think foaming in the tank would not be advisable because in the event of a fuel leak the foam could become saturated with fuel and pose a safety issue.
I changed the tank on my Aquasport 17' couple of years ago and bought my tank from FMT.
I laminated 1/4" neoprene strips to the bottom of the tank compartment, length-wise as SeaBob4 suggested, so that moisture will drain out of the compartment .
I ran a bead of silicone caulk around the perimeter of the underside of the compartment hatch cover, and allowed it to dry before installing the hatch cover over the compartment. I then caulked the cover with 4200 to help prevent water from entering the compartment.
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I'm the long time owner of a 17' Osprey that was manufactured in 1988.
My boat has always been located in south Florida and used only in salt water.
In 1999 I decided that my aluminum fuel tank had deteriorated sufficiently
that I should replace it was a new aluminum tank. My original factory
installed tank when removed looked very similar in condition to the photos
shown in this thread of other tanks being removed from Aquasports. Not
a pretty sight, and only after a dozen years.
I chose to have a local fabricator who worked in aluminum make me a new
custom made tank, after I vistited their shop and saw that they were were in
fact fully skilled to do the job; they had several boating projects in process
at the time of my visit. They built me a new tank from 1/8" thick "5086"
aluminum. "5086" is an aluminum alloy specifically for marine applications
such as building hulls of aluminum. It is corrosion resistant and I'm adding
here a photo of what my "5086" tank looks like 13 years after I installed it
in my Aquasport (see photo showing fuel gage through clear plastic "pie
plate" - NO corrosion of the aluminum). Any one having a tank made should
ask about having it done in "5086"; it will cost more but will last much longer.
Suggest you "Wikipaedia" the words "Aluminum Alloy" and then go down
and click on "5086" and read about this specific alloy.
The main point of this post is to advise that I was able to increase the fuel
capacity of my tank from the factory 27 gallons to a new 35 gallon capacity.
This was accomplished by my measuring the tank well of the boat and then
having the new tank made to fill that space completely but with ample room
to get the tank in place (and remove it later if necessary). The new tank's
end-on view is keystone shaped (20" at bottom and 22" at top) rather than
the original tank's 20" dimension for both top and bottom, and is 1" taller
than the original tank.
I do take very good care of my boat, wash it after every use, and store it
inside. I've just finished reworking it and it currently looks like a new boat. The
rework included putting on a 2011 year model 90hp Evinrude E-tec motor which
is a fuel injected 2-stroke engine. I've now tested that motor, using new GPS
electronics (Garmin 740S) to calculate speed and have updated my "Specs Card"
to include the new E-tec. I'm posting a photo of that card here as others might
want to do something similar. The "Card" was made on my computer's word
processor and then taken to a "Kinkos", now "FedX" store and there "plasticized"
(encapsulated in a plastic sleeve) that makes it durable and waterproof (costs
$two bucks). I got the floor fuel gage readings for my 35 gallon tank on the
first fuel fill after the tank was fabricated and completely empty to start.
My new electronics include (1) Evinrude's "I-Command" digital multifunction gage,
(made by Lowrence) , which shows actual fuel burn to the tenth of a gallon per hour
at every engine RPM, and (2) a Garmin 740S Charplotter which gives GPS speed and
which can also "import" all of the information produced by the "I-Command" system.
Between these two pieces of electronics there is NOTHING that you don't know
when you're running your boat: RPM, Speed, Fuel Burn, Miles per Gallon, Engine
Temp, Battery Voltage, Water Depth, Water Temp, etc.
NorthPalmBeach, FL
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/May_2012_iphone_photos_029_Medium_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8549&title=quot-5086-quot-aluminum-alloy-fuel-tank-after-13-years&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/Fuel_and_Performance_Specs_Card.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7066&title=fuel-and-performance-specs-card&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/P1040635_800x600.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=4930&title=coverhill-s-1988-17-ft-aquasport-osprey&cat=500)
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After a few years of running the boat with a remote tank - Striper season came and I had to button it up - I am now back at it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/consolebow.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15459&title=console-off-bow&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/console_off_stern.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15458&title=console-off-stern&cat=500)
I am currently trying to get the fuel line and vent free. It is moving a bit but still not free - I am going to get at at it for a few more hours. If I can't get it out I will cut a pie hole on the deck but want to avoid it.
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Ok so several hours later - lots of foam removed - and lots of cursing - I freed up the vent and fill.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/beforeremoval.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15460&title=beforeremoval&cat=500)
40 years have taken a toll
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/oldlines.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15463&title=oldlines&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/closeupline.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15462&title=closeupline&cat=500)
I was not able to chase them with new lines - not even sure how you would do that given the difficulty of getting the fill out. It was stiff as a board - hopefully the new line is a bit more flexible.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/out.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15461&title=out&cat=500)
Now to get new lines - if anyone can recommend where to buy and exactly what kind of lines and what kind of fuel gauge to get that would be appreciated.
Got a quote for tank from Phil at Alloy Works and will be ordering this week.
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Longtime coming update - Just received a tank from Phil at Alloy, looks great. Got it in - hope I wired it up right.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/tank_rear.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15982&title=battery-issue&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/tank_front.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15981&title=battery-issue&cat=500)
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Looks good!! What's your plan to secure the tank in the coffin?
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Oh yeah, I used the pascoe method. Thought I snapped pictures before I put it in, but no. Hopefully it sticks.
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So it seems like everything is good - but the fuel gauge always registers a level, even when the key is off. Is that ok or is it running down the battery?
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So it seems like everything is good - but the fuel gauge always registers a level, even when the key is off. Is that ok or is it running down the battery?
When the key is off the sender is not supplied with power, so no. But if you haven't already sealed the fuel hatch I'd fix the sender so it reads accurately.
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Does the gauge move when you turn on the key? If so.....
Turn on the key, then turn it off. Try tapping on the gauge face. Did it move?
That's a brand new reed type sending unit and there is no adjustment on it as far as I know. Recheck your connections coming to the gauge itself. Of course you could remove the sender and slide the ring up and down to check the gauge.
Good luck. :thumright:
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The gauge seems to work fine- full when full- goes down as I use gas. It looks like it is always on though.
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Is the sender receiving the same power source as ignition?
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No, I guess I didn't - how to I connect to that?
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No, I guess I didn't - how to I connect to that?
No sure what you mean by this so...
If you turn on the key and the gauge moves (and you stated it did) then it is wired to the ignition, that is it receives "switched" power (the ignition key is the switch). If you have several gauges, they are usually wired as shown below.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/706/Switch_wiring_typical.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16005&title=typical-switch-wiring&cat=706)
Unless you rewired the gauge when you did the new tank install, you should be good but.....
If the gauge is receiving constant power (not switched) because it is wired directly to the battery then it will be a constant drain on the system. That stated, your description of its function doesn't indicate that.
Reviewing how the gauge functions, it receives power when you turn on the ignition (key). The needle moves in relation to the amount of resistance to ground in the circuit. This resistance is governed by the sender mechanism in your tank. You have (I'm assuming here) a reed type (aka WEMA) sender which uses a float to control the variance in resistance. Float at the top creates the least resistance (tank is full) and the gauge needle is indicating a full level. Float at the bottom offers the most resistance (tank empty) and the gauge indicates an empty level.
With that understanding, wired through the switch (ign. key) you will not be drawing power through the gauge with the key in the off position. Did you try tapping the gauge?
Understanding how the gauge works could indicate a malfunction with the gauge itself but before you remove and replace the gauge, again I suggest you check all connections. If you remove all the connections on the back of the gauge, it should read empty. I'm sure others here know more about the makeup of the gauge but I believe that it has two magnets inside. Mag 1 is a constant strength (?) that pulls the needle to empty while the other, mag 2 is an electro magnet that works off the resistance addressed above. The less resistance to the current supplied increases the magnetic strength and pulls the needle away from the other magnet. If the needle is sticking or mag 1 isn't as strong as it once was, the needle may not fully return to empty when you cut power (hence the suggestion to "tap the gauge"). Again, you will not be drawing current at this point if wired as shown above.
How about some pics of the gauge when the key is off and then on.
Good luck. :thumright:
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I don't know what I was thinking - I connected it to the nav lights. How do you access the power from the ignition harness? Looks like it's all factory and I'm now sure what is the best way to go about it. The gauge works properly except it is always on - as in always showing the amount of gas in the tan.
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Does this sound right? It looks like there are spots to connect snap connectors- so I should splice into the yellow or the blue?
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I don't know what I was thinking - I connected it to the nav lights. How do you access the power from the ignition harness? Looks like it's all factory and I'm now sure what is the best way to go about it. The gauge works properly except it is always on - as in always showing the amount of gas in the tan.
I see you have a yamaha. The tach harness is a set of wires wrapped in black rubber/pvc, with colored pigtails on either side and a yellow and blue pigtail in the middle. Refer to the schematic below. The red arrow is pointing to the tach harness. One side hooks to the ignition harness, the other side to tach. Black is ground, Green is tach signal, Blue is light, yellow is power. Each of these wires on the tach side have an additional 3 female bullet connections. Tie in your fuel sender power wire to yellow, fuel sender ground wire to black. Making these connections powers the fuel sender only when you turn ignition ON.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tach_Wire_Schematic_copy_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16020&title=tach-wire-schematic-copy-2&cat=500)
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Thanks Jason - I see those - I think I have it now.