Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Generic Aquasport Rebuilding Topics => Topic started by: Whitewater on October 01, 2012, 10:04:52 PM
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Hi Gang,
I am looking for any information on where to attain parts for a 1984 (I believe) set of Hydraulic Morse controls. At this moment I am looking for the bleeder screws that are a part of the control piston. I would be willing to buy many more parts if the right situation presented itself as I understand these are hard units to get a hold of. I just rebuilt the helm with a seal kit that the p/o had given me with the boat at the time of sale. Obviously i am in a position where I need to purge/bleed the system and without these two little bad boys I am up the creek without any steering.
I can post additional pictures if needed..............
Thank you in advance Aquasport fans!
Chris
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I should give further details
1984 AS 222 sandpiper dual console
1987 Merc 2.5 liter 200 hp
as always any additional info needed I will get right on it.
Thank you,
Chris
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Chris,
Email my friend Marc at Teleflex, they own Morse and Hynautic. madams@teleflex.bc.ca
He can help...
Tell him Bob C sent you...
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Bob I thank you very much I have sent him an email this morning! I had sent you an email yesterday but obviously since I was able to post here you can disregard.
How are things going with you? Any new projects?
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Bob I thank you very much I have sent him an email this morning! I had sent you an email yesterday but obviously since I was able to post here you can disregard.
How are things going with you? Any new projects?
Chris,
Here is the latest, a Triton LTS 220 bay boat that I have basically "cleaned up" for the owner...
Before...
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/StansTritonBayBoat/StansTritonBayBoat003_zps483e2c9e.jpg)
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/StansTritonBayBoat/StansTritonBayBoat001_zps2e34ab91.jpg)
After...
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/StansTritonBayBoat/StansTritonBayBoat027.jpg)
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/StansTritonBayBoat/StansTritonBayBoat023.jpg)
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/StansTritonBayBoat/StansTritonBayBoat044.jpg)
It's a lot happier now... :wink:
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I struck out with Marc on the bleeder screws..... his suggestion was to buy a new Piston his reccomendation was to "Go with steering cylinder part # HC5313-3" I am still trying to swallow the fact that I am going from $5.00 in parts to $500.00 in a piston replacement because no one on the planet has a pair of these laying around, and no one can machine them :scratch:
I know nothing about matching up old to new on a boat. I have the basic mechanical skills and know that if one lines up with the other I will be able to manage this task with no problems but if it starts taking funky twists and turns I am going to be really challenged. I have never taken anything hydro apart before and I managed to tackle the helm steering pump with only minor issues moslty due to tecnique in reassembly. Next time it will only take 1/4 of the time :idea:
Any ideas on the technical side you couuld offer would be tremendously apprecieated. My main concern is that I am going to buy the piston for the x amount of $$ and then I will find out that I will need to replace the entire control arm assembly.
For the record this piston as it turns out is in fact really a Morse controls piston. No one around where I am in Mass has ever seen one they all know the Hynautic pistons with the Morse helms. I should offer this unit to a boating museum when this is all said and done as it is apparently such a rare piston ! LOL!!
Chris
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Chris - take one of the bleeder screws to NAPA or another auto parts place and see if they can match it. These are usually not unique items - you might find a suitable replacement for a couple bucks... :thumright:
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Bob I thank you very much I have sent him an email this morning! I had sent you an email yesterday but obviously since I was able to post here you can disregard.
How are things going with you? Any new projects?
Chris,
Here is the latest, a Triton LTS 220 bay boat that I have basically "cleaned up" for the owner...
Before...
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/StansTritonBayBoat/StansTritonBayBoat003_zps483e2c9e.jpg)
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/StansTritonBayBoat/StansTritonBayBoat001_zps2e34ab91.jpg)
After...
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/StansTritonBayBoat/StansTritonBayBoat027.jpg)
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/StansTritonBayBoat/StansTritonBayBoat023.jpg)
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/StansTritonBayBoat/StansTritonBayBoat044.jpg)
It's a lot happier now... :wink:
That is some of the prettiest wiring I have ever seen! I have just started to get into learning 12volt electrical work. Right now I am just happy that when I put it together that "something" lights up!! I just put about 500 watts of lighting on my F-350 I managed to keep everything hidden so all you see is the lights which is nice but god help you if you look any further than the surface! Okay i't not that bad but boy it is nothing like the artwork that you put together!
I have no idea how to trace a problem other than trial and error. Example; I could trim the outboard up but not down so I strarted with the switch, I reversed it in the throttle controls and I still had the same issue (nothinhg was happening when the switch was depressed) It had to be electrical I thought so I traced the wires as best I could and assumed that it was a selonoid that I found corroded to all hell. Very excited that I had figured it out I swapped out the unit and fired up the batteries even got the wife out side to celebrate my victory of the dasterdly problem. Ah then nothign happened when I triggered the switch again.... GRRR making it short from that point I found a connection burried in the hull that was so corroded that it only had a bout one strand of connection left to it. Spliced a new connection in and it was good to go. Now I throw the party :jocolor: if I only had the knowledge of how to test the solenoid then I could have saved 25 bucks and 40 minute round trip to the parts departement.
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Chris - take one of the bleeder screws to NAPA or another auto parts place and see if they can match it. These are usually not unique items - you might find a suitable replacement for a couple bucks... :thumright:
Hey Cap'n thank you for taking the time to offer up some advise!
I have hit every auto parts store from Boston to the Cape as well as boat salvage yards and marina's and even mechanics shops. There was lots of but scratching in many of the stores until I got to one of the old timers in a NAPA store whol dragged out a secret stash box and came up with a really close match that was worth a shot. We came up with a close one but it does not screw in far enough to stop the bleeding before it bottoms out. Fear of what it might be hitting inside the valve body of the piston has prevented me from pushing it in further than hand tight. the tread depths are slightly different as well as the crown over the bleeder hole in the top (piston side) of the screw. I tried filing down the crown thinking that it would allow for further burrial of the threads but after taking off an 8th of an inch from the top of the crown point it is still not working yet. I do have intentions of filing further but I am not super hopeful that I will have that hallelujah moment just yet.
What angers me is that the P/O knew this was a slow leaking issue for years but did nothing about it aside from continually dropping more fluid in the helm. As a result one of the bleeders is completely dissintegrated in the piston but it is holding fluid. Not bleedable and will have to be extracted with an easy out. I am angered at that part but at the same time he was good enough to have purchased a Helm seal rebuild kit 20 years ago when he bought the boat second hand and he did give me that kit when I purchased it. Otherwise I would be completely burried in what would at that point essentially be a stright line drag boat LOL!
Chris
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Chris,
First, congrats on getting in and tracing down an electrical issue! Not fun, but worthwhile, and look at the bright side, you could have paid a marina over $200 to do the same thing you did...for free!
Can you post a pic of the bleeder fittings? One of us might say, "Aha, I know what those are!" On the other hand, we may say, "Damn, never seen nothing like that before..."
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Chris,
Have you thought of "adapting" out of the existing port, and then installing a newer bleeder assy. You said one of the prts has a broken fitting in it? if the other hole has good threads, a local hyd shop might be able to make a suggestion, by matching up the thread pitch for a female adapter, then inserting some type of bleeder instead of the style you currently have set up. Just a thought
Marc
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Chris,
First, congrats on getting in and tracing down an electrical issue! Not fun, but worthwhile, and look at the bright side, you could have paid a marina over $200 to do the same thing you did...for free!
Can you post a pic of the bleeder fittings? One of us might say, "Aha, I know what those are!" On the other hand, we may say, "Damn, never seen nothing like that before..."
You are right Bob! I thank you for the congrats!!
I can "take" a picture however I am not able to "post" a picture with my limited forum experience. This is harder than actually working on the boat LOL! I can email it to you however if that would work?
Chris
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Chris,
First, congrats on getting in and tracing down an electrical issue! Not fun, but worthwhile, and look at the bright side, you could have paid a marina over $200 to do the same thing you did...for free!
Can you post a pic of the bleeder fittings? One of us might say, "Aha, I know what those are!" On the other hand, we may say, "Damn, never seen nothing like that before..."
You are right Bob! I thank you for the congrats!!
I can "take" a picture however I am not able to "post" a picture with my limited forum experience. This is harder than actually working on the boat LOL! I can email it to you however if that would work?
Chris
Yeah Chris, you can email me the pic, I'll post it. Use my gmail account, seabobfour@gmail.com
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PM sent. :salut:
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Well, here's the bleeder fitting in all it's glory...
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/Proline%20website%20pics/Hardware/photo.jpg)
I'm saying take it to a hydraulic shop. And I'm a bit miffed at Marc Adams at Teleflex basically telling you to ditch a good steering cylinder simply because it needs a pair of $2 bleeders... :x
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Don't see too many of these around anymore...
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/photo.jpg)
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Well, here's the bleeder fitting in all it's glory...
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/Proline%20website%20pics/Hardware/photo.jpg)
:x
Chris the picture leads me to beleave that the end with the chamfer is the seat for the bleeder, is that correct and can you see a brass/hard plastics seat still in the hole for the bleeder? That looks like a relatively easy piece to make from an appropriately sized machine screw, with some carefully drilled holes..
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Don't see too many of these around anymore...
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/photo.jpg)
You know looking at the pictures it really looks like hell with that rust don't it!
Yeah I was not too happy with Marc's solution but he did give it a try with what capabilities and resources he has. It's a 28 year old piston from a company that has been bought out for a long period of time. He mentioned that they didn't even have mechanical drawings around to get the dimensions of the screw to suggest a viable replacement.
Bob THANK YOU for posting the pictures! It's worth a thousand words just as they say
Chris
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Hi Dave,
Unfortunately I can't see in the hole on this one. It is under the piston and only leaves about 6 inches to get between the livewell cover and the piston. the shiny end with the hole on the side of the screw (the top of the picture) is the end that sets into the tap on the piston. The rusty side on the bottom is the exposed side that the fluid is expelled from.
You know if I had the time to learn how to machine a screw I would go out and buy a "insert explative here" lathe and make one myself LOL!
C
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Chris,
Have you thought of "adapting" out of the existing port, and then installing a newer bleeder assy. You said one of the prts has a broken fitting in it? if the other hole has good threads, a local hyd shop might be able to make a suggestion, by matching up the thread pitch for a female adapter, then inserting some type of bleeder instead of the style you currently have set up. Just a thought
Marc
So you are thinking a close nipple to a bleeder cap ? Like a water shut off valve set up? do they make a nipple that smalll? Okay have to stop saying nipple...
does that follow your train of thought?
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So you are thinking a close nipple to a bleeder cap ? Like a water shut off valve set up? do they make a nipple that smalll? Okay have to stop saying nipple...
does that follow your train of thought?
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/Smilies/rofl_neu_test.gif)(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/Smilies/rofl_neu_test.gif)(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/Smilies/rofl_neu_test.gif)
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Chris,
Have you thought of "adapting" out of the existing port, and then installing a newer bleeder assy. You said one of the prts has a broken fitting in it? if the other hole has good threads, a local hyd shop might be able to make a suggestion, by matching up the thread pitch for a female adapter, then inserting some type of bleeder instead of the style you currently have set up. Just a thought
Marc
So you are thinking a close nipple to a bleeder cap ? Like a water shut off valve set up? do they make a nipple that smalll? Okay have to stop saying nipple...
does that follow your train of thought?
This is exactly what I am thinking, it replaces the entire bleeder, you would have to disassemble the ram because of the shavings caused by drilling the existing hole out. But this would solve your problem
http://www.levineautoparts.com/bleederrepair.html (http://www.levineautoparts.com/bleederrepair.html)
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I like Marc's idea. Granted, there is disassembly, which could get a bit sticky, but it will be the fix...
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Chris,
Have you thought of "adapting" out of the existing port, and then installing a newer bleeder assy. You said one of the prts has a broken fitting in it? if the other hole has good threads, a local hyd shop might be able to make a suggestion, by matching up the thread pitch for a female adapter, then inserting some type of bleeder instead of the style you currently have set up. Just a thought
Marc
So you are thinking a close nipple to a bleeder cap ? Like a water shut off valve set up? do they make a nipple that smalll? Okay have to stop saying nipple...
does that follow your train of thought?
This is exactly what I am thinking, it replaces the entire bleeder, you would have to disassemble the ram because of the shavings caused by drilling the existing hole out. But this would solve your problem
http://www.levineautoparts.com/bleederrepair.html (http://www.levineautoparts.com/bleederrepair.html)
I may not have to drill out the other one.... I intend to give the easy out route a try first... easy out LOL!! Yeah like this part is ever easy !! If I can get that done and adapt this out then I would have to disassemble nothing. Do I capiche you correctly?
Bob it is nice to see I am not the only one that giggles over close nipples :mrgreen:
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Chris that looks like almost the same type of bleeder screw as there is on some types of furnace burners.. If you have an old geezer plumbing and heating guy he may be a good source. The young guys may not have seen enough to be able to help..
Do you know the thread size? If not head to your local Ace hardware store and spend some time in the fastener section trying different nuts to get the right fit. It looks like the end of the bleeder slides up into a seat to make a seal. If you can't find something to make the seat on the inside you may want to try a correctly sized stainless machine screw with a washer and an o ring underneath the head. If the diameter of the o ring is big enough you may get a good seal. The steering system is relatively low pressure (not 3000psi) and getting a seal should not be that hard. Before I would go drilling out threads of just the o ring doesn't work, I would try putting a "flat" across the hole with a file to make a better seat for the o ring, you might have ORB fittings for the hoses, if you do, that's the idea. In the ORB fitting, o ring squash makes the seal not threads..
If you can make an o ring seal, then bleading is easy, leave the screw loose and make a big mess till the air is out then tighten her up and go boating.. No need to drill out for a NIPPLE :mrgreen: if this works..
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Do you know the thread size? If not head to your local Ace hardware store and spend some time in the fastener section trying different nuts to get the right fit.
There are many types/brands available and they're inexpensive. :idea:
http://www.amazon.com/GRIP-Metric-Threa ... m_sbs_hi_1 (http://www.amazon.com/GRIP-Metric-Thread-Pitch-Gauge/dp/B004ROIU2A/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1)
It's a tool I use quite often.
I'm just sayin'.
Good luck.
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Looks mighty suspicious!! Gotta know the thread size...
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_21260012-P_x_x?cm_mmc=ACQ-_-Google-_-enhancedRM-_-21260012&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=21260012&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw=%7Bkeyword%7D#utm_source=acq&utm_medium=google&utm_campaign=enhancedrm&utm_content=21260012
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it is going to Pipe Thread (NPT) probably 1/8 or 3/16, so you will not find a nut that will thread down on it correctly, but you could find a small brass pipe fitting that it will thread into, then you will know the NPT size to get the adapter in the same thread?
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BE CAREFUL...... Because of the type of bleeder with the seat on the END it is unlikely that the thread is actually NPT (Taper), but is NPS (straight). The pitch is the same, but the fit and type of seal is completely different. Putting taper in straight will ruin the fit if it gets crammed in, putting straight in taper will leak like a ba$tard...
I've made that mistake more then once I am embarrassed to say... :oops:
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Chris that looks like almost the same type of bleeder screw as there is on some types of furnace burners.. If you have an old geezer plumbing and heating guy he may be a good source. The young guys may not have seen enough to be able to help..
Do you know the thread size? If not head to your local Ace hardware store and spend some time in the fastener section trying different nuts to get the right fit. It looks like the end of the bleeder slides up into a seat to make a seal. If you can't find something to make the seat on the inside you may want to try a correctly sized stainless machine screw with a washer and an o ring underneath the head. If the diameter of the o ring is big enough you may get a good seal. The steering system is relatively low pressure (not 3000psi) and getting a seal should not be that hard. Before I would go drilling out threads of just the o ring doesn't work, I would try putting a "flat" across the hole with a file to make a better seat for the o ring, you might have ORB fittings for the hoses, if you do, that's the idea. In the ORB fitting, o ring squash makes the seal not threads..
If you can make an o ring seal, then bleading is easy, leave the screw loose and make a big mess till the air is out then tighten her up and go boating.. No need to drill out for a NIPPLE :mrgreen: if this works..
Replied to your PM :salut:
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BE CAREFUL...... Because of the type of bleeder with the seat on the END it is unlikely that the thread is actually NPT (Taper), but is NPS (straight). The pitch is the same, but the fit and type of seal is completely different. Putting taper in straight will ruin the fit if it gets crammed in, putting straight in taper will leak like a ba$tard...
I've made that mistake more then once I am embarrassed to say... :oops:
I have sent a side by side photo to SeaBob via email in hopes that he can post the picture for me...... I have to cut Bob out as the middle man and learn how to do this myself though. Poor guy is so busy helping every body, now that is a good doobie!!
C
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Like Bob said, try a hydraulic shop. Atlas Hydraulics and Goodyear Rubber may be up in your neck of the woods, but most communities have an independent hose and hydraulic shop that has a wide assortment of functionally obsolete parts (until you actually need the part). The trick is finding the guy behind the counter that is the oldest, brownest toothed, curmudgeonly sort first. He will likely be your huckleberry who will know exactly which part of the old Massey Ferguson mini loader or 40 year old piece of equipment on which the same part was used. More importantly, he will likely know just where in the bowels of the shop that they have 2 of them.
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After looking at the picture again, I don't understand why a new Teleflex style bleeder screw will not work if you take out the top o-ring. As long as the new style barrel nut doesn't bottom out and still allows the taper to seat at the bottom, it should work. PM me your address and I will send a couple to you to try. They are used but plenty functional.
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Eugene, if the thread size of the standard Teleflex bleeder is the same, they should work. One is looking simply to have the bleeder seat, effectively closing off the orifice when tightened...
Let me go look at those pics, Chris...
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Weeeellllll.....
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/photo-1.jpg)
Now that I've re-sized it, let's take a look...
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I don't know, that's a tough one. Possibly just an optical illusion due to the larger "cone" on the fitting on the right, but the chamfer angles look different. That's key to the bleeder properly seating on the mating surface inside the cylinder, allowing the orifice to be closed off. Since you have this one Chris, I'd go ahead and play with it. Keep in mind that the heighth of the chamfer is critical as well...or maybe not. Depends on if it's seating into a blind hole, or the hole is drilled through and then the chamfer is created by a subsequent machining process...
Hey, can't hurt. How much did that fitting cost you?
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I don't know, that's a tough one. Possibly just an optical illusion due to the larger "cone" on the fitting on the right, but the chamfer angles look different. That's key to the bleeder properly seating on the mating surface inside the cylinder, allowing the orifice to be closed off. Since you have this one Chris, I'd go ahead and play with it. Keep in mind that the heighth of the chamfer is critical as well...or maybe not. Depends on if it's seating into a blind hole, or the hole is drilled through and then the chamfer is created by a subsequent machining process...
Hey, can't hurt. How much did that fitting cost you?
Thank you for posting the picture!
They cost $2.35 each. He only had two so I can't play too much if I want to use them both. I did a trace comparison on the 2 cones and they are pretty spot on perfect to each other pitch wise. The pitch or the thread looked slightly different but in twistong her in it went without issue. Now off to the vise to have at it with the file. I have been blasting the busted one with penetrating oil for a day now so I should be good to try the easy out this afternoon.
Wish me luck !!
I will send you anothe rpicture when I think I have it close to right height for seating.
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The way I figure these bleeders work is that this is a through-hole, whereas once the bleeder is backed out, it allows fluid up from the cylinder, through the orifice, then out, or visa versa, into the bleeder. Soooo, I'm think that as long as you can thread the new bleeder in to where the mating surfaces, the bevels, actually meet and seal, you should be good to go.
On Teleflex Seastar and Baystar cylinders, as soon as you just crack the bleeder, fluid will start coming out, so obviously, the angles of the bevels or chamfers have GOT to be correct...
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Bob,
I'm sending Chris a couple of Teleflex bleeders to try. I'm cautiously optimistic that it will work if he removes to top o ring to allow it to seat further down the threads. Want to wager a case of Natty vs. a case of Busch Light on whether the lazy man solution will work? (Actually I owe you a case of Natty when we meet anyways for the Star Wars pen. So I guess it's 2 cases of Natty on one case of Busch. Gabe still has managed to hold onto it all these months without misplacing. Surprising for my little guys who go through school pencils and pens like tic tacs.)
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I agree Bob, if the tip of the cone comes off a little with a file, even if the angles are slightly off a seat can be made just so long as the thread is correct.
Chris you are going in the correct direction, good luck!
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Eugene,
The Triton at the house has a 5345 cylinder on it, I'm tempted to pull one of the bleeders to take a look...NAH! Then I'd have to go to airport and get some fluid to fill it back up and bleed!
My feeling is if the threads allow the bleeder to go in deep enough, the bleeder will seat. Some Loc-Tite on the threads would be a big plus...
Eugene, I have a couple more pens in my desk drawer, unopened. Anakin Skywalker and some goofy looking alien. Want 'em?
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That would be great Bob. The boys will really appreciate it.
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That would be great Bob. The boys will really appreciate it.
No prob, bud. PM me your address again. Or do you want me to send them to Shipoke? I can get that on here...
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Shipoke is fine. Thanks a lot.
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Well boys ...... I got the one to seat just fine. The rotten/corroded one did not come out with the easy out instead it dissintegraded up to flush in the piston. I am fearfull of stripping the threads at this point so I am not sure how to proceed. The thick of it just got even more foggy.
Now I am wondering if it is treacherous to think that I could bleed that side out at the line feed into the piston without leaving or introducing rather air into the piston? I am confident that there is a strong enough seal in the broken off bleeeder that I would not be risking a blow out down the road but it's a band aid hackney solution at best.. thinking I may now need to remove the piston completely and bring it somewhere to have them extract the broken screw so the seating brass ring rubber o-ring or plastic seat is not destroyed.
Thoughts? every thing I own is old so I am thick skinned enough with this sort of setback to not be pulling out my already thinning hair. :afro:
With many thanks,
Chris
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Chris,
You may not want to hear this, but I believe you next course of action is to remove the cylinder from the motor so that you have proper access to the bleeder fitting you need to extract. You have good mechanical skills and know how, it's just that much easier when the part is staring you in the face, rather than have to contort to even get a semi decent look at the area you need to perform some semi precise operations to.
Keep in mind this. Should you bugger up a hole, it can be drilled and tapped oversized and a heli-coil installed to bring it back to it's original thread dimensions. But I wouldn't want to be doing that upside down, with 6" of clearance...
Spray all the attachment points with PB Blaster liberally over a couple days. Take a pic as to how the cylinder mounts, all the fasteners, that sort of thing. Then pull the cylinder off, set it in front of you, see what you got...
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Chris,
You may not want to hear this, but I believe you next course of action is to remove the cylinder from the motor so that you have proper access to the bleeder fitting you need to extract. You have good mechanical skills and know how, it's just that much easier when the part is staring you in the face, rather than have to contort to even get a semi decent look at the area you need to perform some semi precise operations to.
Keep in mind this. Should you bugger up a hole, it can be drilled and tapped oversized and a heli-coil installed to bring it back to it's original thread dimensions. But I wouldn't want to be doing that upside down, with 6" of clearance...
Spray all the attachment points with PB Blaster liberally over a couple days. Take a pic as to how the cylinder mounts, all the fasteners, that sort of thing. Then pull the cylinder off, set it in front of you, see what you got...
:scratch: you are right I am being a cheapskate and that is okay but now I am also being a lazy arse trying to get by with the least amount of work in the interest of getting back in the water by Tomorrow and that is shooting me in the foot. The one I am workign on is actually facing out towards the bow but it's still an awkward angle with the live well wall in the way, compared to having it right in front of me on the bench, it's a no brainer. Thank you for being the voice of reason !! 8 PM and I am going back out now to remove it and get it on the bench.
Saw all of the other posts about Star Wars? You guys would die if I told you how many of those Star wars figures and GI Joe's I blew up as a kid..... I grew up in RI, my entire family, parents, aunts, uncles and grandparents all worked for Hasbro in Pawtucket so you can imagine with an employee discount what my Christmas presents were all about. The only thing I have left is a 12 inch Boba Fett with the magnifying eye. Well that and the full size GI Joe jeep with the munitions trailer and wooden "footlocker" that used to hold his gear, both from the 50's.
Chris
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Ah, GI Joes. My favorite get ups were the flight suit including helmet, and the dress blues with matching dress headgear (y'know, the Captains hat). My Dad was a fighter pilot in his Air Force days, so my brother and I kinda leaned towards that end of the GI Joe wardrobe...
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Thanks to another great
Bob'ism
and many others help. The piston was removed and put in the vice. Applied an ever so slight amount of heat and a little love tap and the rotten bleeder valve body was easy out! New bleeder valves are modified and in place and the piston is re installed. Now, it is time to beer to celebrate THIS victory and tomorrow with any luck I will have the time and help to try to bleed and see if them valves is seati'n like good ole boys.
8)
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Ah, GI Joes. My favorite get ups were the flight suit including helmet, and the dress blues with matching dress headgear (y'know, the Captains hat). My Dad was a fighter pilot in his Air Force days, so my brother and I kinda leaned towards that end of the GI Joe wardrobe...
Oh I know (and had) all of those pieces as well as the Navy ( my grandfather's influence, he was a SeaBee). My Dad was Army infantry (Nam) so I had that set along with the Jeep (that was his as a kid). I know some of these are still up in my Parents attic I would just have to get up there and find out of the moths got to them. Do you remember when they went to the Joes that had the movable arms that swiveled? They had all of these screws at the pivot points that I used to take apart and swap them out with other Joes.... it's bewildering how my family allowed me to survive those days! I have always just been a tinkerer and neeeeded to know how things worked. I once made a bedroom door alarm out of a "simon" game that I dismantled.....useless information but true just the same...
Okay sorry to ramble but I am just elated that this project has come along as well as it has.
Thank you to all of you for your selfless help thus far!!
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:thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
You don't get the :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: until she's bled and working... :shock:
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:thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
You don't get the :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: until she's bled and working... :shock:
Fair enough :silent:
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Had time to give it a dry go this morning and so far no leaks.... :cheers:
Does anyone ever remember owning or using one of these systems? It seems really stiff to me but that could be the new helm seals breaking in or could be that I need more grease in the engine pivot sleeve ( I will be doing that after dinner so that can get checked off the list)
Chris
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Chris,
That would almost be anybodies guess as to whether they had one of these old cylinders or not. In comparison to a newer Seastar, I've never had one that I would call "stiff", or harder to turn than one might think is normal. Even if there is air in the system, the wheel won't be hard to turn, the motor just won't do anything until the pistons can get past the air and start working on the fluid.
I have seen cases posted on THT in regards to the steering pivot tube of the engine. Seeing as the old Merc has zercs on it, I would try my hardest to try and force as much old grease out as possible using the new grease. It certainly can't hurt. Another thing to consider is the helm displacement, measured in cu. in. Teleflexes helms, the higher the displacement, the less turns lock to lock, but the higher the steering effort. Lower displacement, more turns but less steering effort. It may be that kind of deal...
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Chris,
That would almost be anybodies guess as to whether they had one of these old cylinders or not. In comparison to a newer Seastar, I've never had one that I would call "stiff", or harder to turn than one might think is normal. Even if there is air in the system, the wheel won't be hard to turn, the motor just won't do anything until the pistons can get past the air and start working on the fluid.
I have seen cases posted on THT in regards to the steering pivot tube of the engine. Seeing as the old Merc has zercs on it, I would try my hardest to try and force as much old grease out as possible using the new grease. It certainly can't hurt. Another thing to consider is the helm displacement, measured in cu. in. Teleflexes helms, the higher the displacement, the less turns lock to lock, but the higher the steering effort. Lower displacement, more turns but less steering effort. It may be that kind of deal...
I am going to sound like a fool but "Mercs have zercs"? Wasn't that where buzz lightyears arch enemy was from? What's a "zerc"?
Just tested your thought.... couple of things.
From zero (C) I marked the top spoke of the wheel.
1) 2.25 turns took me to the full right turn stop.
2) 5 full turns took me stop to stop port
3) 5 full turns took me stop to stop starboard
4) I can turn the wheel even after the stop is reached, it take considerably more effort and it has a skip or jerk feel to it but I can turn
the pump past the stop to port and starboard. As a result the spoke I marked as the top center or 0 was slightly off on the final 0 sighting.
I am just now hearing a slight whining sound in the helm as I turn it
Is it possible that I still have air in the helm or is this normal as some sort of an anti kickback feature (like they have on the single cable steering systems that teleflex seastar is marketing these days?)