Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Engines & engine woes => Topic started by: mevince on September 04, 2012, 07:37:24 PM
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Im looking at a Grady White that sunk overnight in saltwater. Only the motors and back half went under. Was removed the following morning and washed down. The motors had the oil changed and manually turned over. Was told the wiring harnesses needed replaced. The seller prob got insurance check and dont care now cause he said he didnt want to mess with it now. What are the chances these motors are still good? They are 2001 Yamaha V6 Saltwater Series 2. I can get the whole package for $2000. Is it worth it and can the motors be salvaged?
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(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz269/vavangogh/2012-07-26_17-16-31_745.jpg)
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Grady is a 1985 25'
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The trailer alone is worth $2000, as far as the motors go if they were under water they should have been pickled immediately. If not internal corrosion may be an issue. The boat and trailer are well worth the asking price. There is a set of 200 Yamahas for sell right here on the site.
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Here they are. If Bob says they're good, they're good:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9626 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9626)
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Salt water is hard on electronics, but sometimes you get lucky. I've seen a motor get submerged, pulled out quickly, washed off, plugs pulled, cleared out, and then ran fine. BUT - I think that was highly unusual. How long was it under water - a full overnight means salt water got to places where it should not go - like injectors and/or carb bushings.
So consider the others advice and maybe get the boat with the intention of throwing the motors away or selling them to a rebuider - but maybe invest a couple hundred $$ and - just maybe - you may find the motors are OK and you've really stolen that boat!
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Buy It..!!
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Going to get the Grady tomorrow in Rock Hill. 2hrs one way. Meeting Scott sunday to deliver 22-2. 3hrs one way. Need to sell a 1978 SeaCraft Master Angler Potter Hull that I picked up 2 wks ago in Tenn. 4hrs one way. The things we do for water toys! :scratch:
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Man you have been busy. I wish you weren't so far away. I would tank one off your hands...
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Somebody here needs to think about that Potter. They don't grow on trees :salut:
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Kraw2 Ill meet you halfway for the right price. Obviously Im not worried about going far! :lol:
Its a good hull. Just too small for what Im going to be using it for or it would stay here. Needs the usual redone. Floor, transom, and cap. Hull has 4yr old gelcoat that has not seen the water. Center console. Seats. Tank that has been pressure tested. Aluminum Ibeam tandem axle trailer.
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(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz269/vavangogh/0811122000.jpg)
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Scott, you building up a used boat lot? :lol:
An Aquasport Fleet. :salut:
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Scott, you building up a used boat lot? :lol:
An Aquasport Fleet. :salut:
:lol:
Say the word...never seen a boat that wasn't for sale :lol:
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A seventies 20 Seacraft is smoking hot, and desirable.
Good looking too.
It rides like a knife through warm butter. "Nothing rides like a Seacraft" and that phrase, although a former marketing term, is the truth regarding the 20 Potter Seacraft.
The 20 runs FAST in a head sea. Not a small sea either. Three foot decent sea, the hull will happily run a solid 28 mph all day....and dry on the entry. You won't believe this old twenty foot hull will scald a 23 Contender in the open ocean. But it will.
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There IS a reason this site exists...http://www.classicseacraft.com/ (http://www.classicseacraft.com/)
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I dont like it over there Seabob4! Please dont make me go back :|
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Picked up the Grady today and got a picture from the PO of how he found it the morning under water. Appears the motors never actually went under. What are the thoughts now? Any better than once thought?
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz269/vavangogh/1346973893972.jpg)
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz269/vavangogh/1346972464520.jpg)
(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz269/vavangogh/1346972463978.jpg)
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Any damage that has been done is already done... I'd say the boat will have some electrical problems in due time. I'd spray the motors down with corrosion X or something like that and run the snot out of them... cant do any more damage than what has already been done... either they will be OK or they will have problems.
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What caused the boat to "sink"?
looks like that guy is pretty good friends with his insurance-man! haha. All kidding aside, looks like you got a really good deal and hopefully the motors are in good shape.
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:cheers:
Completely different story now. The powerheads weren't submersed, GREAT news.
Get them running as Bruce suggests :thumright:
You got a DEAL :lol:
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They may be very well alive and unharmed. If the carbs didn't go under they may be just fine. Get them running now!
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Awesome! Thats what I was hoping to hear. He said his mech said they needed wiring harnesses. I plan to rewire everything that went under. I got him to show me why it sank. He showed me a hose that is attached to a hull drain out the side. It "some how" fell below the water line. :scratch: Im gonna bust them open & see what they look like.
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Good hevans that hardly counts as being sunk! A friend of mine used to fish a 22 Sisu that had a 175 Black Max with a hydraulic pump mounted on top of the fly wheel to run the pot hauler.. After a paticularly raucous night :drunken: :!: :shock: loading herring she was left on the mooring with the scuppers stiil blocked (so the fish couldn't get out) at about 3am, but they also could not drain :shock: . Then the rain started.. It was cats, dogs and elephants, and she filled, rolled and sunk so only the bow was showing. The rain stopped and a group of us, much worse for the wear, :pale: :pukel: went to work and had her floated by noontime. The plugs were pulled, WD 40 shot in the cylinders, and everywhere else on the head. The battery was changed and the wire harness connections were pulled, heated carefully with a torch, then dipped in a 50/50 mix of acetone and Marvel Mystery Oil, then blasted with contact cleaner.
Somehow there was no water in the gas or the 10 gallon hydraulic oil tank.. She fired right up and then ran fine for the next three years.
You got one whacking great deal! Even though it is a Grady.... :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
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dburr thats a great story! Drink and fish all day. Sink a boat and come out with nothing but a hangover!:cheers: The Grady will def need a transom. I wanted a project so that will give me something to do. Took a good look at the motors today. There is some corrosion in a few places as expected. Def doesnt look like its ruined in any way. Looks like the mech he took it to may have sprayed it down with something already but didnt get everything. Has two tanks. Both will def come out and all lines replaced this winter. All wiring will get replaced. There is only one spot in the entire boat that feels soft surprisingly but Im not sure if I wanna cut into the floor this year of not.
Should I concentrate more on getting the motors running asap or leave them for later? I will have more play money after the first of the year which would work better for me but if they need run asap I will try to work on them. If it doesnt matter either way I will concentrate more on the boat now. That way if the motors dont work out I can get some before next season.
seabob4, I did go back over to the darkside and post the SeaCraft. They never really took me in over there though. Scott and others made me feel welcome here. Im more about family, friends, and camaraderie. Thats why I only look around at THT too. Your just a number over there.
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Hey, we're glad you're here!
Looking forward to meeting you Sunday morning and seeing the flatback :lol:
We won't forget you were an AS guy first :wink:
Everyone recommends you get those bad boys running ASAP. Even if you have to wait on the harnesses, get them spinning, cranked and running. Run on a remote tank for safety's sake, keeping H20 out of the equation.
If you can spin them over, and at least get them coughing is certainly better than nothing. And running would be great, even if they don't sound just right for now. You'll preserve some serious money with an effort right away.
You could show that pic to any knowledgeable potential buyer, and double your money right now. Get 'em running Top Priority, and good for you :thumright:
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I'd fire those suckers up. Like Scott said use a remote fuel tank to be safe. Unplug them from the harness and rig up a remote start and kill switch.. Get em running and nice and warm!
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Ok, I uncovered these beasts today. There was not as much corrosion as expected. A few nuts or bolts here & there but mainly on the positive terminal of the solenoids. I cleaned and sprayed them all down. I dont quite understand the three solenoid setup. Was going to try to at least turn them over but couldnt figure it out & didnt wanna burn anything up. Steering arms looked rough too. Ill post pics later.
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Two of the solenoids are for the power trim system. One for up, one for down the third is the starter. Get them running on a 6 gallon tank with 50-1 pre mix and get them oiled up. I would not waste another minute!
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(http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz269/vavangogh/2012-09-08_09-38-44_840.jpg)
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fitz is it the third from the top or the bottom? On a car you can jump out the solenoid to turn it over. Is it the same here? There are a lot of pigtails unplugged I assume by the mech that looked at them. Should I put everything back together and start them from the switch at the cc or try to do it from the motors? My number is 864-723-5365 if someone would like to call me and walk me thru the process. Im pretty quick with stuff once I understand it but Im cautious enough to not try it on my own for fear of burning something up and costing more money in the end.
Pulled all the plugs also and there is no corrosion on the plug or inside.
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What Fitz said, fresh mixed gas, fresh batts, and start cranking.
The rust you show is the only piece on the engine that is cast steel. Maybe the steering tube additionally. Take a wire brush/scraper to it and get some Ospho in a spray bottle and load it up. The rust will turn black and then powdery white. At some point in time it should be replaced.
Get the engines running first
PS just saw your new post pop up, wish could assist you there. But you'll be assisted :salut:
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Weeell, I hate to break the bad news, but they are locked down. :cry: Talk about taking the wind out of your sails! Instead of winning the lottery Im still coming out with a good deal so time to move on. Im seriously considering buying a sailboat. They last three powered boats Ive owned have had engine problems. Guess Im going to tear these down and have a look inside. It will be a learning experience. May just rebuild them myself. Anybody have a good set of wrenches for sale? Just kidding....I have plenty of tools just no outboard experience :scratch:
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They are locked up? can you turn the flywheel by hand at all? Pull the spark plugs and spray some pb blaster in there. The rust in the pics is probably from normal use not the sinking. the corrosion on the wires could be from the sinking. But even a wire harness for those things is not that expensive. I'd try to put a bar on the flywheel and if they are locked solid or if the turn a bit. You can't make things worse.. put a breaker bar on there and break those things loose.
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I removed the plugs and put a rope on the flywheel. Im 230lbs and was pulling hard enough to lift the motors up. I was thinking of doing the pb blaster but fitz said it probably has got water in the lower carb and seized in places that are x rated for lil kids to look at. I may still do it thru the carbs and plugs. Whats the worst that could happen right?
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you can try squirting some diesel fuel mixed with ATF in the carbs and into the cylinders too and let it soak for a day. The rings are probably just stuck. You need a big ass breaker bar on the flywheel to bust it loose.
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Wing,
It's been sitting since May like this! Even if you could break them loose they are going to blow. I recommended a tear down and exploratory look at what is going on and see the extent of the damage and make a decision on a rebuild or part out and replace them.
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Take a look at those Yammie's from Bob's customer viewtopic.php?p=82647#p82647 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?p=82647#p82647)
OBO is pretty open-ended, as Bob suggests.
You could put $2500-3K per motor on a rebuild....yet still have the stigma of engines that were formerly sunk. The powerheads weren't sunk, but in a small town, perception is reality....they were sunk. Selling them down the road will be difficult. Forget getting your rebuild money out of them. Just selling them at any price will be rough.
Or you can part them out....350 each min. for the lower units, 200 each for the hoods (they're clean) blocks, starters, tilt and trim etc., etc...may end up 2K or more for the pair, piecemeal.
At that point you're in the boat and trailer for free.
The 5 to 6K you saved on two rebuilds....plus the 2K in your pocket from the sale of the old ones...you'll have some cash in hand (theoretically) to go shopping. Twin 150-175's are all you need. Twin 200's are deluxe.
If they're indeed toast...think it through.
G'luck :thumright:
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I tell you what, Vince. You offer $7.5K for the HPDIs (remember, all rigging including BRAND NEW 704 twin binnacle), he'll take it. I have diagnostic reports if you want. New impellers, new VST filters and gaskets, new intermediate and primary filters. The oil tanks have the Artec Stainless mounting brackets...
Yeah, I make a bit of money on the deal. Obviously, the higher the selling price, the more I make. Just sayin'...
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Vince,
Apparently you've discovered some further issues with the GW, particularly transom delam and some soft areas in the sole. Understand, GWs of that vintage were all wood (just as pretty much every other boat out there was!), so, even without the sinking, there were probably coring issues before.
If you're not bashful about poking some holes in her, I would drill a number of 1/4" "exploratory" holes, in the transom where the engines mount, at the bases of the stringers and b/heads where you can reach. If the transom is delammed throughout, you'll be able to feel the "gaps" as you drill. You'll also be able to inspect the wood shavings when you back out the drill. Dry and looks like wood...good. Black and stinks like chit? Not good. Same with the stringers and b/heads.
As far as the soft spot (or spots), do the same, working away from the soft areas. Hopefully you'll get to a point away from the soft area where you have good solid wood, then you know the extent of the repair. Obviously, you have to work in all directions in order to isolate the rotted area to a degree of certainty...
Yeah, you're gonna have a bunch of small holes to fill and repair, but, you're gonna have some pretty big repairs anyway, right?
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I didn't know they had been sitting that long. That's a different story.
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Bob I will def do as you suggested. I was looking for a cc project to have ready for next season so the work is welcomed. The twins if able to get running would have been a bonus. The flatback I sold Scott had a lot of mystery but not a lot of usable equip. CC, controls, etc. The SeaCraft looked had all the equip for a restore but turned to be too small. So now the GW. Would love to have the twins you posted but Im not ready to repower right now. Guess the 94s got me excited & out of focus. Ive bought a truck & three boats in less than 2mons. Ive gotta move some stuff before I look for more twins. Know anyone looking for a set of parts Yammies Im gonna sell these. 1994 200TXRS & L200TXRS.