Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => Flatback 22-2 Rebuilds => Topic started by: LilRichard on April 25, 2006, 10:24:44 AM
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Hello all-
This is my first post, but I have been lurking here for a while now. I just acquired a 1971 Flatback, and will be beginning the long task of restoring her. The plan is a new transom and floor, refurbing the cap, and refinishing the console... then onto a new motor and rigging. Easier said than done though, right?
I have done a some restoration before- but not to the level of which I will be attempting on this boat. I will be posting pics along the way, and certainly would request any feedback (both positive and negative) that you all may provide.
I have spent quite a bit of time reading restoration threads, but that being said, I will be posting up some questions as it goes along... hopefully not repeating too much of what has already been discussed.
One question that I do have is where do people prefer to start? So far my plan of attack (per advice from Tommy at Hammerhead) was to cut out the floor and front cap, then have the inside and outside (to remove bottom paint) sandblasted. From there I was planning on doing the bottom first- as I have some cracks in the gelcoat that need attention. Your thoughts? I just figured I'd rather get the bottom done first, then work on the inside.
Also, what is the best (read: safest) way to turn these boats over?
Thanks in advance eveyone. Here is a starter pic- there is more in my gallery.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Aft_View.jpg)
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Wow, it is refreshing to see that i am not the only one taking such thing on. I just started a 1973 170 project. Hopefully I can get some pics posted.
Have fun
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Great to have another re-builder here to commiserate with :D :!:
You task plan sounds good. Only change I suggest is to leave the floor in place for rolling the hull over. It will add rigidity to the structure so you will have less flexing of the hull.
You mentioned sandblasting on the outside & inside...what needs sandblasting on the inside?
Here's how warthog5 did the operation with his Mako:
http://classicmako.com/projects/xshark/bw7.htm (http://classicmako.com/projects/xshark/bw7.htm)
Notice the internal bracing to support the hull shape.
One other thing which has to do with my project. If you are planning on replacing the flip-back cooler seat please let me know. I need one for my 240.
Again, welcome to the fun & games!
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I was advised to sandblast it inside and out so that all of the foam reminants and other residue would be removed from the inside, and I would have a *fairly* clean, almost-ready to glass surface to start with. Obviously this does not preclude the requisite sanding/grinding for any work areas- but just that it gives me a nice surface to start.
I saw that post of Wart's before (read the whole thread previously)- thanks for the link. However my concern is the rigidity of the sides of the boat, because form the pics, it looks like the boat is rolled onto it's side, then onto it's bottom, right? Will my hull withstand that kind of force? The sides of my boat (including gunwhales) are less than confidence inspiring....
Thanks.
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Oh, one other question- I am in the market for a good work canopy- does anyone know where to find them reasonably priced? I was going to just construct my own out of galvanized pipe and a tarp, but I cannot find the fittings in the angles I need. I have seen a few "DIY" kits, but each fitting is like $10. Just trying to figure out if I can build one of these on a budget.
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Build one yourself with a conduit or wood frame. You could also get something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/20x10-He ... 9460QQrdZ1 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/20x10-Heavy-Duty-Close-Portable-Garage-Carport-Canopy_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6755QQitemZ4634419460QQrdZ1)
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Regarding rolling your boat, look closely at warthog5's pictures. There are wood braces running from one inside gunnel to the other to hold the shape of the hull. With that kind & amount of bracing you should be "good to go". Without bracing there's a high certainty of distorting the hull & popping the cap.
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Regarding rolling your boat, look closely at warthog5's pictures. There are wood braces running from one inside gunnel to the other to hold the shape of the hull. With that kind & amount of bracing you should be "good to go". Without bracing there's a high certainty of distorting the hull & popping the cap.
I did indeed notice those- but was still concerned. Anyone know how those were fastened to the sides? Glass?
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So I managed to build my canopy, and get the boat off the trailer this weekend.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432On_Blocks.jpg)
I finally got to the fun stuff (cutting the floor out) and began to realize that the hull is in worse shape than I had hoped. I only have half the floor out, but it seems that both the port and center stringers have delaminated from the hull. You can see in the close up of the port stringer, the bottom arrow is pointing to where the stringer has separated. You can put weight on the stringer and watch it move, and watch water squirt out of the bottom. Also, the upper arrow is pointing out a crack in the stringer.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Bad_Stringer_w_Arrows_copy.jpg)
So I guess from here I will finish removing the floor and begin removing the stringers. I talked to SeaDog and he said that I may need to put the boat in a cradle or the hull could contort without the stringers. However I have seen some stringer replacements on the Mako forum, and people did it on the trailer. Anyone have any other opinions? Is it time to build a cradle? I have it pretty well supported on the stands- but I don't want to take any chances either.
Last- what stringer setup do you guys recommend? I saw where Wilson Alaya built his on a form out of glass- that seemed like a good setup. But I have also seen JamesC and a few others using composites. Pros / Cons of both please?
Thanks guys!
Rick
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Why remove the stringers? I have the exact same delamination situation in my 240. In my case, pulling the stringers from the boat would have been a BIG project.
What I'm doing is opening up the top of the stringers, removing the foam (with the help of a steel paint stirrer on the end of a drill), re-glassing the stringers to the hull, refoaming and closing up the top of the stringers again.
The cause of the loose stringers in my boat appears to be a combination of poorly wetted-out roving (and not enough roving) and normal flexing of the hull. Enough flexing and the glass strands in the roving start snapping one after another and, after 30 some odd years, the stringer has broken free.
The cover looks good! Makes all the difference if you can keep things dry.
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Thanks for your input Jim- that's exactly why I was posting up before moving ahead... to get some direction. Seadog had also mentioned reusing the stringers- I guess I figured they were not salvagable. So the moral of the story is (after removing the foam and refoaming) to rough up the glass on and around the stringers, and just begin laying alternating layers of mat/roving? That certainly will make things easier.
I was also planning on removing a good portion of the center stringer to put the tank in the floor... and was told that glassing in a few runs of PVC down the middle will give me some added rigidity. You also subscribe to that practice?
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Avoid cutting out any stringers, or parts of them, no matter where they are. Their purpose is to give rigidity to the hull. If one is missing, cut or broken, the hull will flex excessively when pounding along in a seaway. With the hull flexing, other structurals and joint areas will start letting go. The box pattern of the stringers (girders, actually) provides linear and torsional stiffness which PVC pipe cannot match. With the original girder structure in place & bonded properly to the hull, she will be sound as a nut and be able to handle more than you can.
Was the original tank uder the floor? If it was, I'd suggest putting the new tank where the old one was. Saves having to re-engineer the boat.
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Original tank was above floor in the center console... which left zero space for anything else. I'd like to get the tank in the floor... so the question I suppose is can I keep my original stringers and still sink a tank in the floor, or do I have to re-engineer the boat and build a new stringer system?
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As far as I know, most 222s have a gas tank under the floor in the middle right underneath the console. You should be able to put one there. My advice would be to move it as far as possible forward so that you can do things like add a bracket, close the transom, hang a heavier motor, etc. without making it too stern heavy.
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My stringers had separated from the hull as well....a common problem. Glass them back down and follow Jim's advice.
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One thing you'll discover when you dig out the wet foam from the stringer cavities is how much it weighs. If all your stringer foam is wet it could be as much as 200 pounds. That extra dead weight kills speed performance and causes the boat to sit much lower in the water to the point where your cockpit scuppers could be underwater at rest.
It's a good size job you have on your hands but taken a step at a time and done properly, you'll have a strong performer under your feet.
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Welcome Aboard LilRichard! How did I miss this thread!
Your going to find that for any particular project you do on your rebuild, like the stringers, if you talk to 10 guys about what you should do, your going to get >15,000 different opinions. Best advise is to look at all the options you have and pick the best route for you. Take your time 'cause it's going to take forever to get done if your workin on it part-time.
There really is no effective way to put the tank under the floor without removing a good chunck of the center stringer. If you leave the tank above the floor, under the console then the fuel fill is on the console. That's a PIA 'cause you'll have to climb in the boat at the fuel pump to fill it up. If you put the tank under the floor then you can run the fuel fill outboard to the side.
There's a lot of options for the stringers. If your going to remove them all it might be best to remove one section at a time, replace that one, then move on to the next. That way you cut down on the chance of the hull getting wacked-out and forming a hook. But it's a lot more work to grind down a section, get it all cleaned up and preped and glass that section back in, then move on the to next and start the process over.
I'm by no means an expert at this. I've stumbled through this project for two years, made my share of mistakes, grinded them back off and moved on.
Welcome to the fun!
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(after removing the foam and refoaming) to rough up the glass on and around the stringers, and just begin laying alternating layers of mat/roving?
I would cut the top's open enough to remove the foam and get them dried out.
Then I would be sure they were back in the right spot and use biaxle 1708 or 1808 +45/-45 in several layer's covering more with each layer.
It will be much stronger than woven roven with a 0/90 bias.
Then refoam the stringer's with 4lb density foam and reglass to top's.
I know you can't see it in this pix, but you asked how all this stuff is fastened.
(http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/images/File0028.jpg)
There is a piece of 3/4in plywood fastened to the inside side's. Then there is a short 2X4 fastened to that. The 2X4's that go port to STB are seperated by that short 2X4 and screwed into the short one.
The 4X4's is dropped down between the seperated 2X4's and a piece of 3/4in plywood is scred to the bottom of the 4X4 before it was screwed to the 2X4's. Then screw's were run thru that bottom 3.4in plywood into the deck and the 2in X8in caster's were fastened to it so I could roll it around the shop. It would take at least 2 people to still roll the hull around.
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So here's the update from the weekend:
I spent time grinding out all of the glass on the inside of the transom, exposing the core.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432No_Glass.jpg)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Core_Exposed.jpg)
I then proceeded to scrape, chisel, and pry all of the layers of wood out of the transom. The air chisel was a lifesaver here- I would have quit halfway through without it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Rotten_Wood.jpg)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Pile_of_Wood.jpg)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Wood_Removed.jpg)
In that last picture you can also see where I have trimmed the stringers back in order to give myself some working room. 3 garbage cans of rotten wood later, the fiberglass shell is all that remains.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Wood_Removed2.jpg)
Now it's time (next weekend) to start grinding away the last little bit of wood that is stuck to the fiberglass, and grind out the remaining bits of fiberglass joints from the prior transom. I also need to fill in all the holes that were in the transom from the years.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Holey_Transom.jpg)
I think this was the original transom- it was 3 layers of 1/2" with glass between each.
You can also see that at some point there were two motors on this thing. Wow.
More to come next week!
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Good work! Looks like you have your job cut out for you!
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Back in the "old days" many of the 22-2's had 2 smaller engines rather than the one big seen today.
Progress looks good.
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Alright, so I went to fgci today and bought a bunch of glass. Other than having a heart attack at the counter from sticker shock (resin is now $127 a pail), I am ready to start glassing this weekend if everything goes well.
My question is, what is the best way to fill in the void when I close in my transom? I saw how Fletch did it here: http://www.classicmako.com/projects/fletch/fletch8.htm
But I do not have a "Donor" piece of glass. Do I just lay in my main transom core and then start laying mat up on the outside until I get to the same thickness as the original skin?
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Look at Capt Rick's rebuild in the photo gallery here - he did what you're asking.
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Look at Capt Rick's rebuild in the photo gallery here - he did what you're asking.
I did see that before, thanks Rick. From the pic I assumed he just laid up extra mat until it matched... but my concern was that without any overlap onto the old skin, I might devlop cracks in the gelcoat there from flex. Thoughts?
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There are a LOT stronger material's than mat out there.
Biaxal is most favored. 1808.
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You can get ideas from the rebuild JamesC did on his flatback also. Beautiful boat when he finished.
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There are a LOT stronger material's than mat out there.
Biaxal is most favored. 1808.
Wart- my mistake... I said mat, but meant glass in general. I was planning on mainly 1808, then a few layers of mat to finish. Just got myself 20 yds of 1808 to start with.
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This weekend I spent quite a bit of time grinding out the remains of the wood and old glass from my transom. While I was grinding, I found some delaminated glass on the lower part of the transom, so I had to grind all of that out- leaving some spots very thin. From there I had to add glass from the inside to fill in the spots I had ground out. In the low spots, I put in a layer of mat and two layers of 1808. Here is a pic of the transom with the wood out, and some new glass in at the bottom of the transom:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Bare_Transom.jpg)
As you can see, there is a wavy line of new glass I have blended in at the bottom. I need to do some more grinding to get it perfectly smooth, and then I need to add about 1 more layer of 1808 to get it perfect.
Here is a pic of the corner where there was some delaminated glass:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Filled_Transom.jpg)
If you look carefully, you can see where the new glass is towards the bottom right side of the pic, on the transom.
After getting the voids filled in, I plan on laying up at least one more layer of 1808 across the entire transom, then it's time to start building the core.
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Something's wrong with the pictures on you last post... won't display. Regarding grinding the transom down to good glass, that's the stage I'm at with my 240. Real mess of a job which I've been putting it off.
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Something's wrong with the pictures on you last post... won't display.
Weird.... worked for me. I changed the post and added the pictures to the AS gallery. Should work now.
Regarding grinding the transom down to good glass, that's the stage I'm at with my 240. Real mess of a job which I've been putting it off.
I agree... it's no fun. Grind out all the old stuff, then lay in new stuff. Grind new stuff to get it as even as possible, repeat procedure.
My glass was bad pretty deep- like more than half the thickness of the transom skin. Why did it delaminate- from water exposure over the years? Either way, the worst of that project is behind me- I hope to add my layers of 1808 this weekend, and if I am lucky, start fitting the core.
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Another weekend down, and more projects completed. This weekend was all about fitting the core of the transom. I had to fill in some bad glass (see previous posts) and I finally got the transom faired out pretty well- but I wanted to add an extra layer of 1808 just to give it a little more strength / continuity.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Glassed_Transom.jpg)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Glsd_Trns_Close.jpg)
After that setup, I started to dry fit the core, piece by piece. I am using 3 sheets of Marine PT 1/2". It's called Marine tech, and it's pressure treated, then kiln dried so the glass will adhere to it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Core_fit3.jpg)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Core_Fit2.jpg)
I had to bevel the rear edge of the first board to match the contour of the transom... I took it slow, and it ended up fitting well. After I had all three boards fit together, I took them out and laid them up as a sandwich with a layer of 1.5oz mat, and a layer of 1808. I presoaked each sheet of wood with resin, then laid the glass up, than put the two parts together and weighted them with cinder blocks. This took a little over two gallons of resin for both pieces of the "sandwich". And yes, that was the original color of the house when I bought it. I have repainted the outside, just haven't done the inside of the garage yet.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Core_Glassed.jpg)
After that I ran out of time. I did manage to buy my lumber and bolts to form my "clamp" for when I bond the core to the transom... but that'll have to be in two weeks. I am taking memorial day weekend off- I think I deserve it!
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Richard. before you install the core you will want to cut the top edge of it.
I cut mine down 3/4in lower than the top edge of the existing fiberglass that make's up the original transom.
This create's a shelf for the top cap of the transom encolsure.
I used 3/4in Kledgecell core on mine. If your plan's are to use 1/2 plywood the cut it down 1/2in lower.
You can barely see it in this pix.
(http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/images/File0014.jpg)
Lay out the camber you want with a batten to give you a nice even curve.
A batten is just a nice stright grained piece of lumber cut 3/4in X 3/4in. It's stiff enough, yet limber enough to make a clean curve.
Do not pound nail's thru a batten. It will screw it up. Use small finish nail's beside the batten to form it in place. This is just for tracing purpose's to put a line on the plywood to follow with the saw.
A 2in rise in the center is about the right amount of camber across the a$$ end. It's pleasing to the eye and is not so radical that it's a pain to walk on.
I've seen some boat that have to much camber and it doesn't look right.
If you install the core and don't cut the camber "Before" you install you will have a mess, as the saw will run into the side of the boat and stop you from completing the saw cut.
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Coming along nicely.
I was driving to my grandson's birthday party Sunday and I see this yellowish colored boat being pulled down the freeway so naturally I speed up to take a look.
Sure enough, a redone 222. No emblems but you could tell from the ridge of the cap, the side vents, and the rubrail. He'd closed in the transom just like you're doing, put a jack plate and a collapsible tower on it. Sharp looking boat. Kind of a light mustard color.
Anybody own this one?
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Nice work LilRichard.
Good tips Warthog. It is in the back of my brain to close my transom and install a bracket. I am saving all of this good info.
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It's the little tricks and proceedures, like what Wart's describing, which can take away the tears & gnashing of teeth in these projects. "Continuing Education" in the true sense.
Rick, you should keep a camera in the car... you have a sharp eye for spotting the gems. My brother got this shot at 70 mph on 95...
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/OldMerc.jpg)
Tell me that puppy doesn't fly!
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Thanks guys. And thanks for the pointers Wart, I will use them as I proceed. I had actually been debating whether to go with 2 or 3" of camber, so now it will definitely be 2". Please keep the feedback coming.
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Rick, you should keep a camera in the car... you have a sharp eye for spotting the gems.
I always keep mine in my travel bag. Like reading glasses, I guess I need to keep a few laying around :lol:
My brother got this shot at 70 mph on 95...
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/OldMerc.jpg)
Tell me that puppy doesn't fly!
Homemade boat? Doesn't look like much too her, so yes I'd say she'd fly with that 115 on her.
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http://hometown.aol.com/raveau/walwork.htm?f=fs (http://hometown.aol.com/raveau/walwork.htm?f=fs).
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Another Sarasota/Manatee/Palmetto connection. As I said earlier, my hometown is a hotbed for boat building.
Look at the front (http://hometown.aol.com/raveau/walwork.htm?f=fs) of this boat - one big chine.
I'll take the port (http://hometown.aol.com/raveau/walwork.htm?f=fs)side.
Thanks for the link Jim.
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I was out of town for Memorial day, but did manage to get the top of the core trimmed down in preperation for this weekend... when I will hopefully glass it into the transom. I took Wart's advice about leaving a lip with the old glass- so here it is:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Shaped_Core.jpg)
Here's a pic from the rear- you can also see I have been busy griding out all the holes and beveling them before I fill them.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Transom_Rear.jpg)
And here's one last shot of the overlap on the transom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Snug_Fit.jpg)
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The shape of that really shows how flat the flatbacks are. Great pictures. Whate grade plywood are you using? The outside of the transom looks like Al Capone used the boat for a getaway.
Keep the pictures coming...
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I used plywood called Marine Tech, from Plum Creek. It's Marine grade, pressure treated ply, kiln dried again to remove the moisture- thus glass will stick to it. Seems to be good stuff- and I believe the rating was A/B.
I plan to use that as the core for my cap also. Going to steal Capt Rick's design I think... and modify it a little.
And yes, that transom was full of holes.
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Alright! I got my core in this weekend. After roughing up the 1808 I had laid in the inside of the skin, I started by spreading some putty thickened with milled fibers and a little cabosil. I then troweled it with a 1/4" grooved trowel (learned this from tiling around my house) to get an even distribution of resin. I made sure to lay a thick fillet of putty around the corners where I had milled the edges of my core. I didn't want the chance of any air pockets.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Transom_Putty.jpg)
Meanwhile, my dad and my buddy Jake wet out a layer of 1.5oz mat on the backside of the core
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Wetting_Out_Mat.jpg)
When that was done, we set the core in the boat, and clamped it down using landscape timbers (idea borrowed from Fletch on Classicmako). I hit it with my impact, and really squeezed out the excess resin and resin putty.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Core_Clamped_Down.jpg)
And here is a view from the inside.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Inside_of_Core.jpg)
Anyway, I set this all up this morning, so the thought is to disassemble all the clamps this week and start laying up the layers of 1808. I purposely did not lay up any fillets yet because I want to avoid any grinding I can...
Did I mention I am thrilled to have this out of the way?
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Nice pictures! The step by step sequesce and your using the timbers solved a problem I've been mulling over in my head. I need to laminate two pieces of 5/8 ply to the inside of my transom to build the core up to 2 1/4" thick. The timbers, bolts, the notched trowel for the resin and the impact will work out perfectly.
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Nice pictures! The step by step sequesce and your using the timbers solved a problem I've been mulling over in my head. I need to laminate two pieces of 5/8 ply to the inside of my transom to build the core up to 2 1/4" thick. The timbers, bolts, the notched trowel for the resin and the impact will work out perfectly.
Jim- a note on the bolts: I could not find any bolts the size I needed, so I made mine. I needed about 12" of bolt to go through two timbers, the core and the skin.They make bolts that length, but they were only threaded for about 1" on the end, which did not give me enough working room. So I bought 1/2" threaded rod from home depot and used a metal cutoff wheel to cut each section. Then I ran my grinder over the ends to fix the threads... took me about half an hour for 18 of them... but worth it. Also- I waxed all of my bolts with mold release in an attempt to ease the removal process. I'll tell you later this week if that part worked!
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Ok, this weekend, ahead of our first tropical storm, I managed to get my inner layers of glass laid in the transom. Here is a pic of the entire transom:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Finished_Transom.jpg)
Here is a semi-close up:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Finished_1.jpg)
As you might guess from the numbers written on the glass, I laid up four layers of 1808, then added some extra tabbing in the corners just to be ultra-safe. Last I finished off with two layers of 1.5 oz mat.
Her is a pic of the back of the transom, where I wrapped one layer of 1808 around the back. Note the air bubbles at the very bottom... those will have to be ground out. No fun.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Transom_Back.jpg)
I'm going to take a couple of weeks off of the boat... I have a big race to prep for in July. However I will be getting ready to do the stringers soon!
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Great progress!!! That transom will outlast all of us.
It's interesting to see the stringer difference between the AS boats and Makos. AS stringers are massive compared the Mako system.
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Alrighty, given the cooling weather here in FL, I have gotten back to the boat. Here is the removal of the stringers:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01497sm.jpg)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01499sm.jpg)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01501sm.jpg)
And here is the pile of foam and glass:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01500sm.jpg)
At this point, I am trying to figure out my next steps. the front stringers (in front of the compartment with the windows) seem to be secure- but at this point, do I just remove ALL the stringers? I think the anwer is yes... your thoughts?
Also- I have two options- using something like divynicell (like shine did), or using a lighter foam (10 lb) with more glass (four layers of 1808+) like Tommy at Hammerhead does. Thoughts? Mr Wart?
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If the front part of the stringers are bonded well to the hull, maybe not. The question is how do you make certain you tie them together with the new stringers. It might not be easy with that shape. You have gone this far, I would take them out and go with continuos stringers.
As for stringer construction, either way will work. I prefer for the core to participate in the structure (true composite sandwich) vs. just using it as a form for the all glass stringers. This method also gives more space under the sole for compartments.
If you go the trapazoid PU foam route, there is no need to use heavy foam like 10 lb. The foam is only there to be a form. Most of the preformed stringers used in production boats are only 2 lb density – you push your finger right through them. Its only there as a mold, once the glass is laid, its only flotation.
Cooler weather means we should all make serious progress over the next few months
Joel
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So the boat is slowly picking up momentum again... finished removing all but the front of the starboard stringer this weekend... and I am picking up materials to begin constructing the new stringers with over the next few weeks.
Here is the remainder of the stringers coming out:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/uploads/432/More_Stringers.jpg)
I am glad to be almost done with this!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/uploads/432/More_Stringers2.jpg)
So the plan is to use 2" 3lb poly foam to build my stringers. Not positive on the layup structure yet, but I am thinking either 3 layers of 2415 or 3 layers of 1808. From what I hear, the 1808 has more strength for the weight, but there may be something to be said about nearly 75oz of material too. Either way, I will be beginning the shaping of the foam this weekend.
Any thoughts - tips - etc are always appreciated.
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one is 44% mat by weight the other (2415) is 63% so your right about that.
That also does not account for Biaxial being stronger be equal weight over Roving by 20% - that means the 24 oz. roving has roughly the strength of 19 oz. of Biaxial (24 x 80%).
make a little test to see if your resin dissolves the foam :shock: it can happen
have you thought about making a plywood trapezoid mold to pour the foam into? I was considering that for our boat
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I had thought about doing the foam molds, but decided to go with the grid system that I see a lot of folks doing, and I think the rectangular stringers would be easier to work with in that fashion.
I will continue to ponder my 1808 vs 2415 decision... heading back your direction again. :?
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What is "my direction" :D
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Meaning using 1808...
I was just impressed by what the gentleman at FGCI demostrated to me- he gave me a laminated sheet with 2 layers of 1808, and then a similar sheet laminated with 2 layers of 2415. Obviously the 1808 was thinner due to less mat, but it was also less stiff. His point was that for stringers, the more material the better, due to increased (longitudinal) stiffness.
But then hearing your input (and I think Mr. Wartman also commented on it before), I am thinking about sticking with 1808.
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I went with the original trapezoid stringer system on mine but after I got to building the forms I realized I might as well incorporate them into the stringer itself. I was using 1/4 luan for the forms so my layup ended up being: inside the "form" 1 layer of 1708 biaxial, then the 1/4 luan form, then 1 layer of 1708 biaxial. This part was done outside of the boat. Next the stringers were installed in the boat using 2 progressively larger tabs of 1708 "tape" and then 2 more layers of 1708 over the whole stringer and each extending further out from the tabbing. The final layer literally reaches across the bottom of the hull and part way up the outer stringer on one side and to the middle of the hull on the other and slightly overlaps the final layer from the other side. The stringers ended up with the 1/4 luan and 4 layers of 1708 (plus the added strength of the trap. shape). I will say this about the shape of the stringers, they do take up space and make running the rigging tubes harder though.
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A laminated sheet does not well represent a stringer. If the guy gave you 78 oz. of plain mat (same as 2 layer 2415), it would feel just as stiff on a small sample.
with the 24 oz roving, only 12 oz. are running the warp direction - lengthwise.
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One last thing, Tim has a good point: The shape of the stringers are also very important in giving stiffness. Imagine plain aluminum sheet, now bend it into corrugated panels - instant stiffness with no additional weight. Come to think of it, the original trapezoid stringer shape looks a lot like corrugated sheet metal. you have wonder if thats what they were thinking 40 years ago, pretty smart?
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I am getting strung out... here is a pic of me fitting my 3lb foam board for the stringer core. I managed to get both of the longitudinal stringers cut today. Hope to glass these in this coming weekend.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01508sm.jpg)
I have decided to use two layers of 1808 with a layer of 2415 in the middle for a little extra glass.
You all enjoy the meeting at Shell Island... I will be thinking of you all while I am grinding and glassing.
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You all enjoy the meeting at Shell Island... I will be thinking of you all while I am grinding and glassing.
Thinking ahead, she'll be just broken in by next years gathering - looking good 8)
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I've seen the stringer's cut in AS's and Mako's like this from the factory. I have a BIG time problem with it. It's piss poor engineering.
The hole should be cut in the dead center of the stringer. If there is not enough room for a round hole then make it oval.
Look at the chopped out section for the fuel/vent line in the right stringer.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01501sm.jpg)
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I've seen the stringer's cut in AS's and Mako's like this from the factory. I have a BIG time problem with it. It's piss poor engineering.
The hole should be cut in the dead center of the stringer. If there is not enough room for a round hole then make it oval.
Look at the chopped out section for the fuel/vent line in the right stringer.
Yeah, ya like that? Funny- that is where a lot of the delamination (that led to their total removal) occurred.
Since I have been talking offline to Wart and Wilson about a seperate topic, I will share my thoughts here for some feedback. Due to weight issues in this hull (motor on a porta-bracket, enclosed transom), I am thinking about removing the windows from the hull so that I can push the fuel tank all the way to the front of the V in the boat. I hate to lose the "cool factor", but I think I would rather have my 60 gallons of fuel in front of the COG so that the boat will sit level and maybe even self bail...
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Ok, nobody spoke up, and after dinner I decided to stop worrying about the windows. They are no more:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01514sm.jpg)
The glass was about 1/2 an inch thick, give or take. Here's a shot:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01518sm.jpg)
Here's the glass compared to a piece of 3/4" ply. The Mako guys should like this shot...
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01519sm.jpg)
:)
Here it is beveled to a 12:1 ratio:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01525sm.jpg)
Glassing to start tomorrow.
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That was fast!
The viewing ports were an interesting gee-whiz feature but not really too useful. Your progress looks great!
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Thanks Jim, I hope to have it glassed up by this weekend, and *maybe* get the port stringer in too...
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Richard - when you use the foam stringer "boards, like you have, what are your plans of securing the floor to the stringers? Float it - no attachment? Put a "Cap" of wood on top? I think my liner kinda floated on the stringers, before I replaced the floor that is (if I only knew then ....)
I guess I have the same question for Shine AND I could just wait and see how both of you do this :roll:
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My plan is to secure the floor to the tops of the stringers either using a thickened resin, or possibly something like 5200.
I'll tell you once Wart let's me know the best route :)
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5200 and some temp drywall screws. After a day or two remove the screw's, fill the hole's with some runny resign/Cabisol and then lay the glass over the top of the floor.
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There's your answer Rick!
Wart has given me some great advice, and hopefully will be kind enough to continue.
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Not Warthog but...
I use resin thickened with cabosil AND 1/4 chopped fiberglass. Cabosil is strong but can be a bit brittle, the chopped glass makes it better. Think concrete with figerglass added for a comparison. I used this mix any time I am "glueing".
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That will work too.
But it takes more time to make and you need to hussle to get it all down and the deck laid in place.
It's much easier to shoot something out of a calking gun.
It's not uncommon when removing a motor bracket that the 5200 will pull the gellcoat right off the fiberglass. That's pretty strong.
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Didn't want to scare anyone off from responding to my posts, nor offering advice- I was just laughin that soneone was asking my advice when I get most of it from Wart anyway...
But that being said, while some of you folks were out enjoying the AS meeting, I was grinding fibergalss... :roll:
You saw the pics of the missing windows, well here are soime pics of how I covered up the holes.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01527sm.jpg)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC015293sm.jpg)
I laid up six layers of glass to cover those holes - I did not want a failure. There are 3 layers of 1808 and 3 layers of 2415, at increasing width.
Next I moved onto my stingers. I set them up with resin thickened with Cabosil, and then I tabbed them in.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01531sm.jpg)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01532sm.jpg)
After that, I laid in progressively larger layers of 1808, 3 in all.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01538sm.jpg)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01539sm.jpg)
I was using 38" wide fabric, so you might notice the seams. I made sure to overlap and stagger the seams.
Next weekend I plan to get the starboard stringer in - time to order my tank!
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That's looking good Rich. :D What did you end up using as a backing plate/mold on the bottom of the boat for the spy hole's?
I was afraid you would have void's on those top square corner's on the stringer, but it look's like you handled that just fine. :D
On the stringer's I would just butt the same layer, but have the butt's staggered between layer's.
The extension to the stringer going aft you can stagger those joint's in the glass too. leave what you have there and sand it. When the next section of stringer goes in the glass will go from one section to the next and butt to that layer that is stopped short of the end.
make your stagger's at least 6in, but 12in would be better. :D
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Thanks Wart. I think the reason the tops of the stringers were easier is because I shaved a 45* angle on the corners... hoping to ease the bend a little. Seems to have worked - I will do the same for the next stringer!
Oh, and I used luan with visqueen as my backer... just like someone recommended. :wink:
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Well I got the starboard stringer in today... Same process as the port side- 3lb foam tabbed in, then glassed over with 3 layers of 1808.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01547sm.jpg)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01551sm.jpg)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432DSC01549sm.jpg)
I have my tank on order from RDS, should get it around Dec 1. Then I will begin building the bulkheads.
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Looking good Rich.
Wart,
You ever thought about writing a book? I'm serious. All the books available are out of date and seem to concentrate on snailboats.
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How am I supposed to post up all the progress I made this weekend... I usually use the AS photo gallery. Guess I need to go register for a photobucket account...
:(
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Yeah, dunno what is going on and I don't have access yet to anything. I've been using photobucket too. Pretty easy from there, look for the same "IMG" line you normally use from our gallery.
Wish I knew how to get ahold of the Capt to alert him to our dilema.
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Not to be outdone by "the other project", aka Shine's project, I too decided to add in two layers of 1808 to the hull. Actually, I was speaking with a few folks who recommended it on the older hull... apparantly adds considerable strength... so here it is. For now I have added it between the stringers, I will do the outer areas when I start building in my cross members.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01552.JPG)
After that, I added my half-round center stringer. This will give the tank something to sit on, while also adding extra rigidity down the middle.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01558.JPG)
From there I worked on adding a short center stringer up front. I saw that a lot of guys were not adding them, but my boat had one stock, so I decided to err on the "overbuilt" side. Here it is being shaped:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01561.JPG)
And here it is glassed in. Despite the nasty angle, I only got a couple of minor bubbles.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01563.JPG)
The next thing to do is to glass in the bulkhead where the stringer will terminate. Here's a pic the core:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01565.JPG)
And from the rear:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01569.JPG)
Fuel tank should be here in two weeks, courtesy of RDS.
Now I just need a day back at work and away from the boat!
:)
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Coming along nicely Rich
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That'll be one strong hull when you're done. Looks good. Appreciate the updates & detailed narrative.
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:D
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I got that damn cold that's been going around, so no real work this past weekend... hoping to get some done tomorrow and Sunday. I did start cutting up my center console yesterday.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01572.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01571.JPG)
the console was originally 39" wide... much too wide for a tower boat. Plus the design was not very useful. Plan is to cut the top off of it, then cut it in half and take about 7" out of the middle. Hopefully put it all back together and make it look nice. We'll see about that last part.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01578.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01577.JPG)
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I noticed in your last picture the lights set into the sides of the console are the old original Marinium stern lights. If you plan to pull them out there may be someone who could use them.
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Really? Ok... interesting.
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My "help" should be around this weekend to finish some bulkheads, but until then I am still working on the console. Here are some pics as I started to frame up my new top:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01640.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01641.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01639.JPG)
Meanwhile I also received an early Christmas present:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01642.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC016431.JPG)
Got it from RDS- very nice people, good price.
Looking forward to getting it installed this weekend (if all goes well).
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So, you already cut the middle out of the console? Looks good - hard to tell it wasn't always like that. 8)
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Wish the gas tank Santa would come down my chimney. Console looks good.
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Thanks guys. Trying to figure out the best way to tackle the lip on the cooler. Not gonna be fun to glass and fair...
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Wish the gas tank Santa would come down my chimney. Console looks good.
That might be dangerous if the tank was full... it'd be the end of Santa.
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I'm a newby to this forum and am beginning a rebuild of a 71 222. I'm wondering about supporting the hull, to keep the hull straight and true while stringers are out and new stringers are going in. Mine is in my garage, blocked at transom rear corners, and blocked under bow. with stringers and floor out, seems to have twist and flex, if I induce it purposely from pulling on gunwhales. Should I have more support points along the chines and under the keel to keep the keep straight? Could you include a photo of where you blocked the hull, please? Also, how much higher are you locating the floor? I've heard 2" higher than the old floor was is the new standard.
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I'm a newby to this forum and am beginning a rebuild of a 71 222. I'm wondering about supporting the hull, to keep the hull straight and true while stringers are out and new stringers are going in. Mine is in my garage, blocked at transom rear corners, and blocked under bow. with stringers and floor out, seems to have twist and flex, if I induce it purposely from pulling on gunwhales. Should I have more support points along the chines and under the keel to keep the keep straight? Could you include a photo of where you blocked the hull, please? Also, how much higher are you locating the floor? I've heard 2" higher than the old floor was is the new standard.
Yes, you need to support the hull or it WILL deform without any internal support. There are more than a few ways to do it. You can see in my rebuild thread how ours is braced, but thats just the easier way I found.
Ideally you really want to have the hull braced before you cut out the supports.
Have you started a new thread for your boat?
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I agree with Shine- I braced mine in multiple points along the chine before pulling the stringers. I think I have something like 9 support points in all- all towards the very outer edges of the hull where it should not cause the bottom to hook. I can take a few pics if you'd like.
I am raising my floor 1.5".
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Please see my new thread posted tonight. Looking forward to the project on this forum.
Jim
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While my man Jim in Ct is shoveling snow, I was busy grinding glass and adding bulkheads. Doesn't look like much forward progress, but with my help out of town, it is slow going!
Forward bulkhead installed- 2 layers 1808, with one layer 2415 in between.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01689.JPG)
In this pic I have already added a layer of 3/4 ply so that I have something to screw my fuel tank tabs into. The lamps are cooking the thickened resin that I glued the wood to the bulkhead with.
Here's a shot from the bow side
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01691.JPG)
After applying the wood to the bulkhead, I added another layer of 1808.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01693.JPG)
And finally, here is a shot of the two forward bulkheads and short stringer up front.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01695.JPG)
My goal now is to get the fuel tank in place, and build the aft bulkhead. Obviously all of these bulkheads will continue out to the sides of the hull, I just haven't ground those spots out yet. :cry:
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Looking good Rich.Gonna have her done for the next "Rendevous" - late Apr or early May?
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No way... but thanks for the thought! I am aiming for that same time NEXT year. Still have to build the rest of the bulkheads, drop in the tank and floor, build the rear cap, pull and rebuild existing cap, then rig the thing.
I might however be able to ride out on, say, a nice 230- if I were invited!
8)
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No way... but thanks for the thought! I am aiming for that same time NEXT year. Still have to build the rest of the bulkheads, drop in the tank and floor, build the rear cap, pull and rebuild existing cap, then rig the thing.
I might however be able to ride out on, say, a nice 230- if I were invited!
8)
Sounds like a couple week gig :lol:
You're welcome on my boat - haven't figured out which one I'll tow up there yet though. We talked about having the next gig at a place where people could get there without a boat - for people in your position (or Jim and Miquel who can just fly in :wink: ) NOT Disney World :lol:
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I continued building bulkheads this weekend- today I got the bulkhead aft of the fuel tank installed. Once again, I added a 3/4 piece of plywood so that I would have something to screw the tank into. This picture is looking toward the stern.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01698.JPG)
Here is a shot looking toward the bow. The fuel cell is sitting on top of the bulkhead I installed last week.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01700.JPG)
Here is a shot of the "coffin" that is formed by the stringers and bulkheads. You will see two strips of 3/4" ply glassed into the hull- that is what the sides of the tank will sit on. Pardon the glass dust- it's everywhere :x
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01703.JPG)
And here's a shot of the console... haven't touched it since I laid the glass over the top. I need to add another layer of mat to it, then start the fairing.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01697.JPG)
Next weekend is the last bulkhead, then I will start grinding out the places where the bulkheads will connect to the sides of the hull from the outside of the stringers.
First I need to order some more tyvek suits up... anyone ever order from Tasco Safety? They have suits for ~$4 each before shipping...
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Beautiful progress. The glass dust simply shows you've been working.
Four dollars a suit is a good price. I need more bunny suits too so maybe I'll give Tasco a try.
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Feels like I have not made as much progress as I would have liked... but I have had stuff going on almost every weekend. Here is a quick update- tank is ready to be strapped in now... just want to get the rest of the glass work and rigging done before putting it in for good.
I cut out all of the "wings" for the bulkheads this weekend, as well as added the final aft bulkhead (in the foreground of this picture)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01733.JPG)
Here's one more shot to give you some detail:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01734.JPG)
Going to glass over them next weekend, then start getting ready to finish the stringers and form the transom knees. Hopefully after that I will start rigging it with the intention of having the floor in by start of the summer.
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Moving right along there! Bet the floor's in well before summer.
The ways I've seen so many of our AS's here being rebuilt demonstrate how much stronger and longer-lived they'll be. Better stringer layout & bonding, better drainage, superior materials etc., etc. I complain about how the factory did things but had they done it like your boat, production costs would have been out of sight.
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First I need to order some more tyvek suits up... anyone ever order from Tasco Safety? They have suits for ~$4 each before shipping...
Hey Rich, I've searched the "tascocorp" site and don't find anything about tyvek. Got a different url for me to look at?
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Is this it
http://www.tasco-safety.com/clothing/Di ... cks.html#b (http://www.tasco-safety.com/clothing/Disposable_clothing_sample_packs.html#b)
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JJ- yup, that's the site, here's the case pricing:
http://www.tasco-safety.com/clothing/clothing.html#b
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Thanks guys - wonder why, when I entered "tasco safety" into the search engine (yahoo), that didn't come up?
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I gave up on yahoo and msn search and only use google now.
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I ordered a sample pack of the 2oz cheapo ($15) suits - should keep the fiberglass dust out (I hope).
Thanks for the lead.
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The pseudo-wife was out of town this weekend, so I had plenty of time to get 'er done.
Continuations of bulkheads out to hull sides complete:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01744.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01740.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01741.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01743.JPG)
I also started work on the transom knees:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01747.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC01746.JPG)
My goal of having the floor in by April still stands... hoping I can make it. I bought some 3" PVC today to start building rigging tubes... still have one more set of bulkhead "wings" (extentions to sides of hull) to complete. From there, I think I can start cutting floor panels.
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Really rolling along! I'd pay cold hard cash for a weeks worth of Fl weather about now.
You've got to cut into some of that nice new grid work to put the tubes in? If so, I hope you don't cut notches in the grid... better to drill holes with a rt. angle drill & hole saw. Notches will weaken the structure; holes won't.
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Right on Jim, holes, not notches.
Oh, except for the fuel fill lines.
:oops:
My fuel tank leaves me no room to run through the stringer, thus I have to notch it... even to Wart's dismay. I plan on double reinforcing that area (it'll be about 2" deep by 3" wide). If anyone has a better idea, let me know.
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Cut a semi-circle if you can. Square corner is a break waiting to happen.
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I had been wondering about that... I think you may be right. Like I said- either way I will reinforce the area with some extra glass... trying to avoid that problem.
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Also try to use PVC elect sweep's, instead of 90 degree turn's on your rigging tubes.
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Wart- that's a good idea. I looked at electrical conduit sweeps and a 3" sweep is HUGE. I actually picked up a PVC plumbing (sewer) sweep- wider that a standard 90deg bend, not as wide as an electric conduit.
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That will work, but the elect sweeps are easier to maneuver wires thru.
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I agree Wart- but it is important to note that my hull is flat at the rear, and my stringers are only about 10" in height. The 3" elect sweeps require close to 16".
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So between marriage and honeymoon... well Ok, afterward... I got some work done. On a positive note, I got the rest of the stringer work complete. Here is a shot from the transom- blocked partially by the fan and tools in the boat:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02046.JPG)
As you can see, I have cut the holes to run the rigging tubes through, as well as the in and outflows for the livewell.
Also, I got the transom knees done:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02045.JPG)
Last- the notch in the Stbd stringer for the fuel and vent lines (still need to glass over):
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02048.JPG)
Now the bad news. I am ready to mount the spray rails (prior to dropping the floor in), and decided to patch a "few" of the spider cracks in the gelcoat. I started grinding away the cracks... and grinding, and grinding...
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02039.JPG)
As it turns out, it looks like I had quite a bit of hullside flexing around the floor. I have ground it all out, and will start building back with 1808 then mat. from there I will fair it out, then bolt (and glue) on my spray rails.
Here's a shot form the Stbd- yuck:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02043.JPG)
I guess the bright side is I will not have to worry about any more gelcoat cracking and crazing.
Now my question is: before I mount the spray rails, my plan is to seal up the bare glass with a barrier coat... will that be sufficient to protect the fiberglass should water get between the rail and the hull?
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Sorry I have not checked in for a while... been busy as usual, and then I managed to get the stomach bug... :cry:
Anyway, my project continually tosses me curve balls- and here is the latest. As you may recall, I was planning on mounting spray rails. I noticed some spider cracks in the hullsides (most likely from flexing around bad stringers). I ground that glass out from the outside, only to find that the glass was very thin on the sides (and was mainly mat, with what seemed to be 1 layer of roven). I then recalled JamesC telling me that he wished he had reinforced the hullsides of his hull (below the floorline) because he was getting gelcoat cracking from flexing around the chine.
So this lead me to my latest chore, which was to lay 3 layers of 1808 from the outside of the stringers up to the floor line. Here are some pics:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC021373.JPG)
You can see where I have ground the gelcoat away from the outside... it's the light areas. The real pain is grinding the gelcoat out from the inside... they must have coated the hull with 2-3 times the amount that is on the outside.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC021383.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02136.JPG)
In the last picture you can see that I layed up a decent fillet with thickened resin (cabosil and fibers) before running the glass up the side.
Now it's time to start fairing the outside, then mount the rails... THEN put the floor in.
On a side note, I did go to TA Mahoney's over the weekend to shop for seacocks and plumbing... should start working on that soon too.
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Chine areas are prime spots for glass delam and failure because of the concentration of flexing stresses. Add a failed stinger structure to the mix and and the hull starts coming apart. Boats are symmetrical objects so you might want to do a thorough check of the starboard side chine area. If you can't see any visual signs of problems, sound the area with light taps using a tack hammer. Good glass will return a hard, clean sound. Delaminated or cracked areas will sound a bit deader or more hollow to the tap. If you do hear something a bit "off", now's the time to investigate further.
Stringer work looks great! Your grandkids will thank you.
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Man, that's really coming together nicely. And I thought I had a major project going. LOL
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Badger- thanks for kind words.
Jim- you are absolutely correct. Although the pictures did not clearly reflect it, I did both sides the same way. I agree- I would not fix just one side of the problem... at least not when I am this deep into the project. However I am surprised you did not see that in picture 3 that the glass has "Stbd" written on it... you are typically WAY more observant than me!
I am hoping that the thick fillet I laid into the corner will help alleviate some of the stress by spreading the load out. We'll see in a few years!
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Alright, so made real progress for once. Today I setup the spray rails on my boat... still need to fair out the side before mounting, but I'll do that this week. As for now, I countersunk all the bolts and drilled all the holes.
I used 1/4" x 2" SS bolts with fender washers and nylock nuts spaced every 12". Started drilling from the front and tightening as we went- drilling 2-3 holes at a time. The thought is I will bolt and glue (5200) the rails back on after fairing. One note, I decided to mount the rail with the broad side mounted to the hull. I thought the increased bonding surface area was a plus... here is a link to the manufacturer of the rail:
http://barbourplastics.com/marine-products/R1059.htm
Here are some shots:
From the rear:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02143.JPG)
From the profile (yes, the chine is NOT finished nor fair yet) but this gives you an idea of the angle of the rail from the chine downward:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02144.JPG)
From the front looking aft:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02145.JPG)
Port side:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02146.JPG)
An example of a counter sunk bolt:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02147.JPG)
Port side finished product:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02142.JPG)
Next week is gluing them on... btw, big thanks to "Dieseldude" from the CM site- his work helped me think through how to tackle this...
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Looks good! With the rails going that far aft you should have a real dry ride. The pictures I took of Joel's FB show how effective they are. They provide a degree of lift too.
Will you have problems fairing the chine with the end of the rail right there?
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Jim-
I hope you are right... I would rather be dry.
Rails will come off before fairing... glued and bolted on after it's all set.
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I'm confused. shouldn't the 1 5/8 side be mounted to the hull? with the flare cupped down to flare the water away? 5200 is strong stuff and should hold just fine and with 1 foot spacing of screws - plenty strong.
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If you get the same flare on the other edge, you should be fine. Your progress looks great.
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CapnJ- I thought the 1 5/8 side should go against the hull, but upon laying it out, it just looked more sturdy and seemed less likely to fail the way I set it up. I think it also looked better- when the 2" side was facing out, the rail looked a little clumsy.
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I'm confused. shouldn't the 1 5/8 side be mounted to the hull? with the flare cupped down to flare the water away?
I think capnjfran is right, something doesn't look right there and the way you have it, it would just be a decoration instead of really knocking down the spray .... I would ask Captflatback to look at his.
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If you gentlemen will notice, there is a flare on both the 1 5/8 side and the 2" side. If you're interested, I can supply you with a section of the rail to examine... I cut off about 2' from each side. If you look at the profile from the stern looking forward, you will see the same flare downward on the trailing edge as is on the 2" side.
The bottom line is this- sure, with 2" of deflection there might be a little less spray, but 1 5/8 inches still extends the chine much further than it was stock. Plus it really gives a lot more bonding area to the rail...
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Looks to me like you'll be in good shape the way you have it laid out.
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Richard with that surplus section of rail. You may be able to pickup a plug cutting kit and make plugs to cap off the screws for a even cleaner look.
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/PC03-05 ... nk--Fuller (http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/PC03-0500/Plug-Cutter-38-Shank--Fuller)
(http://www.mcfeelys.com/images/prodimages/pc020250.jpg)
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Great idea Wart! I had planned on just filling the holes with 5200 and sanding them flush, but cutting out those plugs might be the best bet. I will go search for those locally.
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looking good Richard :) Im not sure if you already mentioned this, but I would defiantly fair the hull sides before permanently mounting the rail. Your going to want to move a faring board across the patch area, and the rail would get int the way.
Also, 5200 stains pretty bad - so go with the plugs if you can
Thanks for that plastic link, I was looking for some trim molding profile for our boat.
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What should he use to hold the bungs in...5200?
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Thanks Shine.
Jim- I was thinking 5200 would secure the plugs well... Either way, it will be painted over.
I am going to do some serious fairing today / tomorrow in hopes of having the rails on permanently by end of weekend... if not next week.
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Use 3M 4000UV. 5200 turns yellow in about a week. I have some 2 year old 4000UV that is still white. It holds just as well.
product overview
Resistant to weathering, saltwater, and stresses caused by joint movement. Seals between mechanically fastened joints on wood, fiberglass, metal and most plastics above and below the waterline. Applications include sealing deck to hull joints, thru-hull fittings, window and door frames, deck hardware, navigation lights, hatches and porthole frames. It is also paintable.
http://www.marine-products.com/boat_parts/accessories/adhesives_and_silicones/3m_adhesive_sealant_4000_uv_fast_cure_white_10oz.jsp
It comes in the "toothpaste" tubes also. Most of the "boat" stores have it.
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I can't remember if I told you guys about my idea of how I was going to reinforce my floor for the tower or not, but a quick recap: I have an aluminum "cap" that will fit over the top of the stringers where the tower will mount. I will then place the floor over stingers and cap. When I go to install the tower, I will drill holes into the floor and through this aluminum cap, then tap the cap for threads.
Well I had the caps fabricated, and thought I would show you some pics. The top of the cap is 6" wide by 6' long, and overhangs off the sides of the stringers about 2" on each side. The profile is basically the shape of the greek letter "pi".
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02148.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02152.JPG)
The idea is that the tower will be bolted not only to a backing plate under the fllor, but that plate will be glued (5200) and through bolted to the stringers, thus creating a very strong junction.
More to come as they are installed. I just wish I could TIG weld... all I have is a MIG.
:(
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Amazing work LilR!
Did you have to compensate for the thickness of the 'cap', I mean, did you
have to take off a little of the top of the stringer where the 'cap' will rest
so the top of the cap is at the same level as the rest of the stringer?
The production boat guys should build their tower supports as sturdy as
yours. Some are just screwed into the floor.
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Wow! That ought to hold the tower like the Rock of Gibraltar. With that Pi-section it will be stiff enough to distribute the load on the stringer over its entire length... and thereby avoid point stress on the stringers. Thinking out of the box is how improvements are made. Good job!
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Kinda like a sliding glass door top frame - nice. Do you have to secure it to the stringer?
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Thanks guys.
The plan is that when I lay the floor down I will route a 1/4" section from the bottom of the 3/4" plywood- thus the top of this cap will be slightly recessed into the bottom of the floor. We'll see how that works out.
Rick- yup- the plan is to secure that cap to the stringers with adhesive and a few bolts (the holes through the stringers will be sleeved with PVC so that it will not compress the stingers when torqued).
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The plan is that when I lay the floor down I will route a 1/4" section from the bottom of the 3/4" plywood- thus the top of this cap will be slightly recessed into the bottom of the floor. We'll see how that works out.
Any plan on how you're going to get everything lined up before routing? Maybe coat the top of the cap with something that will transfer to the wood when you lay the plywood into place and stand on it, so you have the exact outline of the cap to route out. I'd hate to rely solely on measurements for that (plus it's easier this way). I'm sure there is something that will transfer to the resin coating on the bottom of the wood, give you the outline and be removeable.
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Maybe chalk the aluminum and lay the deck on it to transfer the location? Dry erase pen will do the same thing... maybe better?
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Yeah, haven't figured out yet how I will get the measurments for routing, but you guys all have good ideas. I was thinking that the chalk method (or some sort of dye) might work well. I am only capable of one good idea per week... I'll have to wait till next week for a solution.
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That's nothing... I hatch hundreds of "good ideas" each week... 99.99999% of which are unworkable and just plain ignore all laws of physics.
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1) Hot as hell in FL? Check
2) Is Rick a slacker? Check.
3) Somehow got spray rails on? Check.
FINALLY- after tons of fairing work... managed to get the rails permanently affixed. Now it's rigging tube and tower supports... then the floor. More to follow soon.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02280.JPG)
Looking at the starboard side:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02283.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02286.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02285.JPG)
So the rail was bedded in 5200 then bolted to the hull (as described in above posts). I then covered the inside of the bolts and washers with 5200 in attempt to avoid any water entering the hull, and to keep the nuts from backing off over the 20+ years this rebuild will last! I may chop the remaining part of the bolts off a little shorter... not that it matters that much. <!-- s:afro: -->:afro:<!-- s:afro: -->
Not that the 'fro has anything to do with spray rails... it just looks cool.
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Lookin' good Rick. Progress is always a good thing. Gotta get her done before football season starts or she'll have to wait another 6 months :wink:
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Actually... football saeson is when I work on it most... because it is cool out! I would like to get the floor in before I take a break for the hottest part of the year.... we'll see if I acheive that objective.
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It gets hot up here for a bit in the Summer, but you guys down there must get fried. Take it easy in the heat... heat stroke is insidious. You'll beat me to splash-day anyway, so no heroics.
I put 5200 right up there with WD-40, PB Blaster, Visegrips, decent screwdrivers and rum. With those in the kit, anything can be fixed, modified or put in perspective.
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I agree about the potential for heatstroke... although I am typically immune to that after cycling in this heat for the past 10 years. Rode 50 miles mainly offroad over about 3 hours on Saturday... makes working on the boat seem rather enjoyable!
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So as you might guess from my post in the classifieds, I picked up a motor from my rig... 150 Suzuki 4stroke... it is identical to the motor on James' boat in the gallery. Luckily it cost a lot less though! 8)
I spent part of the day welding up a motor stand because the darned thing takes up too much space lying down. I'll post up picks of the stand as it comes together.
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One more thing of the list! Nice feeling having the powerplant in hand. Congratulations!
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So as you might guess from my post in the classifieds, I picked up a motor from my rig... 150 Suzuki 4stroke... it is identical to the motor on James' boat in the gallery. Luckily it cost a lot less though! 8)
I spent part of the day welding up a motor stand because the darned thing takes up too much space lying down. I'll post up picks of the stand as it comes together.
great motor from all I hear. Having a motor waiting will probably speed up your work :)
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Hey- what are you trying to say? :)
I think it will be a good thing in that regard. Everytime I walk into my garage and see that beautiful motor sitting there, I just want to put it on the back of my partially complete hull and go for a ride.
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:D The motivation to get her done so you can use that new motor is good
or
8) The temptation to cut corners so you can get on the water is bad
I know both :?
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I have felt both too... but everytime I feel the "cut the corners" feeling, I just remember how much #$%@#$G work I have into this thing, and how much I would hate to have something hanging over my head in two years I wish I had taken the time to do.
Great example: the three extra layers of glass in the hull. Or the reinforced chines. Or the extra work building generous filets on all joints. Any of those could have easily gone undone and the boat would have been "fine". But down the road when you see stress cracks, or just have that "uncertain" feeling when you're a few miles from shore and you're wondering about how strong that bond REALLY is... it's just not worth it.
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Agreed. A cut corner will nag every time you think of the boat. I try to do at least a good workman-like job in order to sleep better.
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So not much headway with all this heat, but thought I would at least post something. I worked on fitting the tower supports this weekend... I am hoping to get all rigging related work done in the next month or two in order to be ready to slap a floor in it as soon as it cools. Anyway, got out the chop saw and grinder for some aluminum work...
Here's the "finished" product:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02744.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02745.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02746.JPG)
Also hit the tank with the DA to prep, then coated the tank in coal tar. Here is the work in progress:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02287.JPG)
I'll post one of the finished tank as soon as I take it!
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When I cleaned up the tank for the 22-2 I was too chicken to use the power sander on it. Although all the gas was out of the tank I still worried about some stray fumes getting to the sander brushes.
Work looks 1st class!
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Thanks Jim.
That's why you need to buy an AIR sander though!
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Looks good Rich. I like air tools also but they require a large compressor. They will kill a little shop compressor in short time and I hate having to wait on the compressor to catch up.
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Nice Lookin', Rich!! Are you going to notch the stringers to lower the aluminum so it's flush?
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Rick- Nope, do not want to notch the stringers. I will most likely route the bottom of the floor where those plates will sit so that they are actually slightly recessed into the bottom of the floor.
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With t-top mounting bases like that you will be able to pick the boat up with the t-top! :D
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The main thing the T-top will not be just mounted by putting screws into the deck and then working loose and pulling out in a year or two.
Rich and I discussed this a bunch. :)
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Hey Rich,
Nice tank.
I just had C.L.Mattson and Company out in south Tampa, build a tank for me and they told that if you run a wire from the grounding tab of the tank to a peice of zinc sitting in your bilge, it will act as warning mechanism. If the peice of zinc starts getting eaten away, then more than likey there's some stray current trying to eat at your tank. Ever heard of this?
I actually didn't do this, the guys doing my boat suggested gelcoating the tank for extra protection.
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The main thing the T-top will not be just mounted by putting screws into the deck and then working loose and pulling out in a year or two.
Rich and I discussed this a bunch. :)
Absolutely. I am going to have to put a classicmako sticker on the boat in honor of the feedback I have gotten from that site, especially Mr. Wartman...
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Hey Rich,
Nice tank.
I just had C.L.Mattson and Company out in south Tampa, build a tank for me and they told that if you run a wire from the grounding tab of the tank to a peice of zinc sitting in your bilge, it will act as warning mechanism. If the peice of zinc starts getting eaten away, then more than likey there's some stray current trying to eat at your tank. Ever heard of this?
I actually didn't do this, the guys doing my boat suggested gelcoating the tank for extra protection.
Thanks Mike. Interesting... never heard of that (zinc). I would NOT gelcoat a tank- I would either paint it with coal tar (what I did) or use an etching primer and a suitable epoxy paint... Raybo on the CM site has outlined a process for that.
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So I had a few extra minutes... started back on the project!
Here you can see the pads I glassed into the bilge for two pumps, two switches. Note the pad on the port side has two heights, one for the primary float switch, the higher one for the auxillary pump. That way both pumps don't run at the same time unless the water gets HIGH.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02967.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02968.JPG)
And I got the tank in!
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02969.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02971.JPG)
Tomorrow I will paint the bilge with Tileclad epoxy paint.
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Lookin' good :thumleft:
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Very nice!
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Thanks guys. Some more boat porn for you...
I used tile clad HS 2 part paint for this... a bunch of CM guys have had good luck with it.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02981.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02977.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC02979.JPG)
Hopefully this stuff will dry by this afternoon- maybe get the rigging tubes in!
:afro:
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Time to drop the sole in and get it buttoned up so you can drag it out to the get-together :afro: :thumright:
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I wish it was that easy! Don't worry, another rendevous or two by car and this one will be making an appearance. :D
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What are the front 2 bilge areas going to be used for? I see the drain from the very front one going into the second one. Does the second one drain into the gas tank area?
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The front two areas will be storage. I plan on building a mold for a false floor in the middle compartment so that I can put a 5 gallon bucket on each side (one for castnet, one for whatever else).
The second area actually drains back to the rear bilge via the half moon PVC glassed over the keel area. However these hulls tend to sit low in the front such that water actually collects in that second compartment, so I am installing a bilge pump up there... there is a wood pad glassed in there too (just didn't show it).
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looking good, mine will be back in the next week or so :lol:
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Alright... back at it again. This weekend I mounted the tower supports that fit over the top of the stringers. I mounted the supports with 1/2" stainless bolts, secured with nylon locknuts. Prior to bolting them down, I sleeved the holes (1/2" Sch40 pvc, cut to fit) to eliminate any compression of the stringers.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03027.JPG)
Applied 5200 to all holes to eliminate possible water in the stringers.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03025.JPG)
Sorry that one is a little blurry... you get the idea though.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03026.JPG)
Here's how it fits in:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03029.JPG)
Also ran the rigging tubes:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03030.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03031.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03034.JPG)
Also bought the floor panels this weekend... 3/4 Pressure Treated Marine ply. Same stuff I built my transom with.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03041.JPG)
Also worked a little bit on the center console... just some grinding prior to fairing.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03042.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03036.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03039.JPG)
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Looking good Rich :thumleft:
Be done in no time now.
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Makes me tired just looking :wink:
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JJ- anytime you want to head north for an afternoon let me know... I'll provide the beverages. Wait, better yet, let's go fishing when she's done!
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Why did you go with plywood decking instead of a composite material? Any benefits? Cost? etc?
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Well I had seriously considered Coosa, but the weight difference was nil... After coating Coosa on both sides with glass (versus one side for wood- you just coat the bottom with resin and light cloth) it weighs the same as wood. The sole I had in the boat when I got it was 30 years old with only a few soft spots. So for $70 a sheet I got PT wood... versus $190 a sheet for Coosa. Fairly easy decision for me.
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Got ya, im doing nidacore board myself just was interested to see why you were going the ply route. The port side of my sole was completely dry after 34 years, it was the starboard side that had a single 4" hole cut in it for the rigging cable that rotted out the entire sole. I cant believe nobody sealed the edges where it was cut, if they did it would still be solid. Thats also with the balsa ply, I would think it would be more prone to rot than even standard non pt wood. Check out the nidacore site, they have been doing promotions to get their product out. If your a qualified business they will give you their special deal. I got all my decking from them for $150, about 160sq ft. of material. They have more specials on the site as well, free gallon of core bonding compound, etc. Check em out.
http://www.nida-core.com/english/promotions_h8pp.htm (http://www.nida-core.com/english/promotions_h8pp.htm)
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Nidacore is good stuff- but it takes quite a bit more prep than wood or Coosa. I need this boat functional... been working for a year+ so far... want to get fishing. If I get 30 years out of this floor I will be happy. Thanks for the heads up though!
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If the wood is used correctly and preventative measures are taken (which you are) then you should have no problem getting 30 years or more out of that wood deck. As long as you seal up any holes and dont let it get wet you'll be fine.
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Well here it goes (with the wood):
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03060.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03061.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03063.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03064.JPG)
I got most of the floor cut today before the rain came... going to finish tomorrow. After that I need to get the final preparations done below the sole, then hope to get glassing next weekend.
By the way, I am using a wood called "Marine Tech". It's an AB quality pressure treated marine plywood. They pressure treat the wood, then kiln dry it a second time... thus the glass will stick to it.
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Finished cutting the floor today, along with the casting platform. Pretty happy with the fit...
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03078.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03086.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03088.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03082.JPG)
Last pic is for the CM guys... gotta get the foot in the shot!
Time to get grinding... ugh. :roll:
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Good job :!: :!:
Are you going to build a column from the top of the casting deck down to the storage under it? Or are you going with the "hidden" storage like Mike?
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Rick- Thanks. Are you referring to a support for the middle of the casting platform? If so, yes, there will be a support down the middle of the platform connecting it to the stringer below.
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Oh, I thought that white area was a baitwell or storage.
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You are correct... white area will be storage, but I will have a small support going from the stringer (white) up to the platform.
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where did you get your ply wood from for your sole? how thick is it and what is the exact name of it.
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Got it from LLT in Tampa. It is 3/4" Marine Tech.
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Really really nice Richard. I keep thinking about stopping by to see it in person but it just hasn't happened yet.
When do you think you'll have her in the water for the first time?
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Thanks!
Hoping mid next year... there's still a LOT to be done.
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Ok, got the majority of the floor glued, screwed and tabbed in today. I will post up procedures later, but wanted to get some pictures up tonight. Quick recap: 5200 gluing floors down, radiused and tabbed with with FGCI products.
This has been a long time coming, and I am thrilled:
Three stooges:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03145.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03144.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03142.JPG)
After it was glued and screwed, we started tabbing:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03148.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03151.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03152.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03157.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03158.JPG)
Sorry about the picture overload... but I am REALLY happy about this stage of the product!
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No turning back now :!: Looking good Rich.
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A major step like that has got to feel good.
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Today I finished the glass on the floor. Layed down a layer of 3615, then a layer of 1808 XM - butted each layer and staggered the seams. Should make for a very strong floor. It was my first time using 3615 and I thought it was actually pretty easy to work with.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03170.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03172.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03174.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03176.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03177.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03179.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03183.JPG)
Now it's time to start rigging the plumbing in the bilge, then put in the last section of the floor.
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Looks awesome! way to go man! derfinately keep the pics coming. that things gonna be done in no time!
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Nice work.
Are you paying the helpers or do you owe them some time on the water?
Or maybe are you going to ----> :o :lol:
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Or maybe are you going to ----> :o
:shock: :safe:
No, they will get some water time. Two younger guys are buddies... old dude is my dad. By default, all dads are committed to helping out on their son's projects!
:D
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Looking real good rich, did you glass bottom of floor? Only reason i ask is when i just did the work on mine the guy glased bothe sies of the floor wasnt sure if that was a standard?? Your gonna be ready for paint soon was doing that? If your doing yourself i would like to stop by and observe as my bottom is gonna need to be sanded and redone in the future. Again nice job!!
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Thanks Dave.
Yup, bottom of floor was glassed... otherwise it would certainly absorb water.
I am not sure about painting yet... may try roll and tip, but may have a guy who can shoot Imron for me. I'll keep you posted.
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pardon my ignorance, however, did ya just glass the bottom in the different individual sections leaving the glass hang over the sides and then just plop them in right side up and then do the whole top?
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Bear-
Don't know that I completely understand your question. I glassed the underside of the panels and let them kick. I roughed the glass up to match the stringer design (didn't want to grind the entire bottom of every panel if I didn't have to) so that 5200 would adhere to it. Then glued the panels down with 5200 and ran drywall screws into the stringers to pull it snug. Tabbed the sides of the floor down to the hull, let it kick. Then glassed over the entire new floor with two layers of material.
Make sense?
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yea man, you hit it. thats what i was asking. i thought my question was a bit confusing, but you got the point. thanks!
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richard question you tabbed the edges with what? also what was the cloth you used for the floor looks smooth wanting to do mine about same as yours looks great yourr a little ahead of me 6 hands are always faster than two any info helps thanks johnny!
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LilRichard,
I like what you've done, she is looking great. You'll have quite a boat when you're done. I've been thinking about how I would replace the deck in my 17' and I will likely do it the same way. When you get a chance I'd like to know what you used on the backside and your layup plan you used on the topside.
Keep up the good work.
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I give you guys credit. Short pants and fiberglass? ITCHY!!!
A couple questions.
What did you screw the DRYWALL screws into and will they rust?
Did you "hot coat" the plywood before you glassed it in to the sole?
It looks great. Good Luck! aqua 70
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Thanks for the encouragement guys. Yeah, I should have given better detail on the procedure.
Bottom was coated with 1808... I should have used a lighter cloth, but that was all I had and it needed to be done, so I probably added 20 lbs to the deck by doing so.
After the bottom kicked, I ground out the pattern of the stringers on the bottom (because 5200 needs rough glass for adhesion). Ground glass on tops of stringers, and cleaned with Acetone. Then liberally applied 5200 to stringers, laid the sole down. I used drywall screws to secure the floor to the stringers, then laid down a fillet of thickened resin and tabbed down the floor with 1808.
The screws should not be an issue for two reasons: 1) they are not structural... they were only used to bring the floor completely into contact the stringers until the tabbing and 5200 cures. 2) the screws went through the floor into the stringers, but they are completely encapsulated. They are sealed by 5200 at the stringer/floor seam (where they enter the stringer) and they have been glassed over on the top.
Then the top of the floor was glassed with a layer of 3615 followed by a layer of 1808. Basically that's equivalent to 3 layers of 1808.
Let me know if anyone has any other questions...
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LilRichard,
Thanks for the info on the sole -- I like the plan. Any idea yet on what you plan to put down for paint on the sole??
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Most likely going the imron route for the entire boat if I can find a suitable facility in which to paint it. My friend has a paint booth, but it's automotive... so it's too small. I have considered rolling/tipping... but with this much work into the boat, I would rather spray. I will let you know as I figure it out.
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Just a suggestion: I would just gel coat the sole. Use an Interlux non skid additive to the final coat. You can color or tint the final coat as well.
It worked out well for us.
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Gelcoat is very porous I have heard that and stains easily when used for floors... any problems with that on your hull?
And why gel over paint inside?
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RickK has a good floor procedure.
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JJ- Was planning on that exact procedure using Imron. Would really like some input here... have heard Imron is the way to go... any reasons not to?
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Imron or Awlgrip.
I have no preference. Both are great.
Imron is seriously hazardous to your health. I don't know about Awlgrip but I assume it is about the same health-wise. DuPont (Imron) suggests a full body suit with forced air supply when spraying, not just a mask. I have used it in industrial applications. It is good stuff.
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I believe imron is easier to blend, plus it is sandable/buffable. Agreed on the health risks. My old man says they sprayed that stuff in the 70s with cotton dust masks... maybe that's why his kid is crazy?
:lol:
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For the hull out and insides - I've never used Awlgrip but my 170 is Imron'd - the Imron is pretty durable and if done right has reflectivity like a mirror. The first time I sprayed it, I had mirror until it sagged down in a few places. The 2nd coat, I was spooked by the first and it didn't end up as shiny.
For the floor, I think I would use Gelcoat with the procedure that I posted in the resource section - very easy to do and a superb anti-skid surface and then wax it using Woody's wax to protect it from staining. Woody's is a non-skid wax that JJ turned us on to.
My $.02
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My other boat I used Awlgrip throughout, spraying the hull in/out and rolling non-skid on the cockpit sole. I was real pleased with the results and find it extremely durable. I've heard alot about Imron from here and CM but have never used it.
RickK,
In the resources you mention the wax to prevent staining, is that something you would have to do routinely??
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Woody Wax does prevent staining and makes clean-up much easier. My flats boat non-skid is pretty much like Rick's procedure with the glass beads. Blood, guts, cast net muck just hoses off. Exposed to the sun it has to be re-applied about every month. I have a cover on the flats boat so I get about 3 months between applications. It is not labor intensive like paste or normal liquid wax.
Clean the boat
Squirt a tiny amount of WW on your brush.
Scrub it in good.
Let it dry.
Rinse it off completly with a hard spray from the hose.
Dry with a towel.
I have not put any wax of any kind on the AQ because I don't want it to interfere when I get around to painting.
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Squirt a tiny amount of WW on your brush.
That's the part I was unsure of (directions didn't say how much) and used probably 10 times more than I should have and rubbed it in by hand - floor was kinda brown when I was done :shock: . Still wasn't slick at all and is wearing off now but still have enough for a year. Next time I'll use a "tiny amount" :roll: .
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Everyone does that the first time because it just doesn't seem to be enough. :) Two squirts does the topsides of my flats boat.
I have been using Collenite Fleet Wax on the hull but everyone I know is raving about RejeX. One guy I know swears even love bugs just hose off of his truck. RejeX does NOT contain any cleaners or abrasives so the hull must be prepped with something else the first time to get the oxidation and stains off. NOT for non-skid.
http://www.corrosionx.com/rejexFAQ.html (http://www.corrosionx.com/rejexFAQ.html)
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Everyone does that the first time because it just doesn't seem to be enough. :) Two squirts does the topsides of my flats boat.
I have been using Collenite Fleet Wax on the hull but everyone I know is raving about RejeX. One guy I know swears even love bugs just hose off of his truck. RejeX does NOT contain any cleaners or abrasives so the hull must be prepped with something else the first time to get the oxidation and stains off. NOT for non-skid.
http://www.corrosionx.com/rejexFAQ.html (http://www.corrosionx.com/rejexFAQ.html)
They don't tell you how much to use so they sell more. As long as it doesn't hurt anything I guess it's ok.
So, should we add Rejex to the resource forum?
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Up to you. I can't vouch for it yet other than word-of-mouth.
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You guys are hijacking me! 8)
Another weekend, more work accomplished. I am getting close to putting down the last section of floor but there are quite a few things I wanted to do first... including setting up where my cap and false bulkhead will end so I can get the rigging exact.
I began shaping the cap, one thing lead to another... and I decided to build the whole thing this weekend.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03221.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03223.JPG)
I was REALLY concerned about making sure the curve was even and symetric.
I traced the transom curve onto a piece of cardboard and then transferred it to a sheet of 3/4" ply that makes up the false bulkhead. The cap was built out of 1/2" ply.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03224.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03225.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03226.JPG)
I attached the cap to the 3/4 false bulkhead and screwed it down to bring it to shape (making sure it was square obviously). I then glassed the inside of the joint by adding a fillet and 2 layers of 1808 along the seam. I then glassed the underside with one layer of 1808, and the top with two layers of 1808. I will remove it from the boat to finish the floor work, then put it back in and begin tabbing it to the hull and floor.
I will add either two or three hatches to the front cover so I have plenty of access to the rigging. I considered one big one like on the X-Shark (classicmako) but it might be too cumbersome to move in/out. We'll see.
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looks good. how wide is the cap you added?
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18" wide... gives me about 10" of width at the bottom (due to the slant of the transom at the top).
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You guys are hijacking me!
I'm good at that. (http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emsmilep.gif)
I'll try to do better. :wink:
Lookin' good Rich. I wish I could come up with the initiative to just start working on my cosmetics.
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I know you have told me before... but what exactly do you have to complete on your boat?
I'll be done with this mid next year... after that, I am willing to help you out if you need it.
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Just sanding and painting. I have done all the ding and dent repair. The deck has several coats of a crappy home-done non-skid. It looks like house paint and beach sand :roll: It's peeling in some places, stuck good in others. I tried a 2750 psi pressure washer. It knocked a lot off but still a lot to go.
Just a bunch of sweat and elbow grease. Skill not required :wink:
It's cooling off now so I will probably get back on it soon.
I really appreciate the offer.
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looks awesome. way to go man.
my question is how are you going to "merge" that "lip" from the original cap to the bulkhead?
again, please pardon my ignorance, however, with 1/2 inch, will that be strong enough to walk on, if necessary? if so, do u have supports underneath or will just glassing it itself make it strong enough?
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I think you may do better seeing pictures of that cap transition than me trying to explain it, but in a nutshell I will be tapering the rolled edge in the cap down into the new cap, then glassing the old cap to the new one on the top and to the bulkhead on the bottom. It will look very much like this picture:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/527/363aqua-sport-hh012.jpg)
1/2" will be plenty strong with the support it will have (remember, it is only 18" wide, and is supported on both edges). But yes, there will also be some bracing on the underside for good measure... because I always tend to "overbuild". That's the mark of a rookie...
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its a good mark to have too. better to overcompensate than under! especially for all the time ur putting in.
are you gonna do the bench seat like tommy did on that one too?
have u thought about ur non-skid yet? about how you're going to do that? i love the way that yellow boat looks but I dont have the slightest clue on how they did it!
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I like having a bech seat, but I think Tommy's design takes up too much space. However I made my cap wider for a reason... I plan to have a removable seat pad made up that I can snap onto the cap in lieu of a folding seat. I will have the upholsterer make me up a seatback that will fit into the aft rodholders.
That non-skid is basically the same thing that RickK details, or any of the similar ways demonstrated on Classicmako (Check out Warthog's boat, or Tim Fletcher). I have not done it, but it seemes fairly reasonable. Just takes a lot of tape work.
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:*:, if it looks like that afterwards, its definately worth the taping time. It looks awesome.
I'll check out those posts too. i frequent mako toio, not as much as here, but i check it out. I've made up my mind that i want either a AS or Proline.
i guess i could use some "grip-tape" like I used to use on my skateboard! haha!
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i guess i could use some "grip-tape" like I used to use on my skateboard! haha!
Not if you care to have any knees left should you actually slip! :lol:
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i guess i could use some "grip-tape" like I used to use on my skateboard! haha!
Save that for your trailer tongue - works good. Been using that and "tub tape" for years on my trailer.
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So the floor is now complete... finally. It looks like less work than it was, but building the hatch receiver (second set I used gelcoat on) and glassing it into the floor was a PITA. Plus I added 3 layers of 1808 to the hull in the back- the last sections were just as thin as the other glass I have encountered during the project.
Here's some shots of me setting the hatch receiver into the floor:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03299.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03300.JPG)
The white stuff is polyester putty I used to bed it in and smooth out the transitions.
Here is is in the boat:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03308.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC033093.JPG)
The actual hatch door I will be using is gelcoated - the one in the pictures is just a placeholder that was taped down to keep the resin out of my beautiful receiver.
Next up: glassing the cap in and building those hatches.
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Looking good!
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Thanks Rog.
Here we go again... I glassed the rear cap in this weekend... trying to keep my momentum here. Please excuse my overspill of the gelcoat. It all has to be ground and faired anyway, so no big deal right?
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03322.JPG).
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03318.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03319.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03320.JPG)
This week I need to build a few more hatch molds in oder to finish up the front casting deck. I can't wait to eat some turkey and grind some fiberglass...
May have a new tower next week... think I found a killer deal.. Will post up more after I secure it tomorrow.
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You go girl!! :smurfin:
Thanks again dude and keep up the momentum. Can't wait to see what you found for a tower.
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I know you want to sell me that mold :)
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It'll be kept in the "AS Family"... let's see who needs it... but my goal is to keep it in the area.
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i talked to you a few times and the floor is going in soon i was wandering since we live 15 min away from each other if i could buy or rent that mold from you? it would stay in the AS family on my 71-222. i hope that this works out since i have been following alot of what you have done to your boat and i love the way that your hatch turned out. PM me and we can talk or ill send you my number cause i would love to see your work of art in person!
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Sure Wiler, shoot me a PM and we'll chat. Thanks.
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I started reading about your project and it seemed like old news but very interesting. I just got a '72 170 with a crack at the top of the transom but with a solid core. It wasn't until I got to your coment about "eating some turkey and grinding some glass" that I realized I had read all the way to real time. Great project thanks for all the posts.
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Thanks Fishon.
I kinda wish it was not real time... ground some more today. Nothing terribly exciting... I just added my cap supports... and started fabbing the casting deck. Hope to pick up my tower this week and then I will divulge details.
:afro:
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So I think I can safely let the cat out of the bag... I found a tower! I was speaking to Travis at Quality last week and he mentioned they had a 3/4 tower they built for someone and they backed out... and it just so happened to fit. Travis was/is really cool to deal with - great guy. Very impressed with his operation... can't say enough honestly.
Anyway, we're finalizing details, but I will post up some pics here soon.
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Hey Rich, I'll be moving on to the outer wings in the grid system. Did you just carry out the bulkheads by adding 'wings' and then put one in the middle of each bulkhead.
Looks good!
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Sorry, can you clarify the question?
My stringers are continuous, so yes, I did just add the "wings" onto the bulkheads - and glassed it all together. Don't know if that answers the question.
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Last weekend I added some supports for the cap - two foam supports toward the aft and a wood support that I ran my fuel lines through on the starboard. The port side is a false.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03362.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03363.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03364.JPG)
The supports are all straight - although the picture does not look like it.
Today I worked on glassing the hatches into the casting platform and then glassed the platform together (it was two pieces of ply).
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03358.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03360.JPG)
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rich pm me your phone number so that we can get together for those hatches!
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Are you gonna have two hatches in the front deck?
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Are you gonna have two hatches in the front deck?
Yup... Here it is all glassed up as of an hour ago:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03366.JPG)
Blue stuff is masking tape to keep the resin off the gelcoat.
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Yea that looks good. I might do mine similar to that
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Note that the two hatches are the same width from front to back... 24". It is an optical illusion that the front hatch is narrower. The rear hatch is twice as long (side to side) - 48".
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PM me your number so that we can set up a date to make these hatches. thanks
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Note that the two hatches are the same width from front to back... 24". It is an optical illusion that the front hatch is narrower. The rear hatch is twice as long (side to side) - 48".
Your garage is very messy! Or is that an optical illusion too? :)
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Hey hey hey... no comments on the surrounding area!
But yes, it is. Too much time grinding/glassing - not enough time cleaning.
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Exactly why I have never posted a picture of my garage, or yard. 8)
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You must have a clean, safe working environment. Or you may have to file Workers Comp on yourself! :D
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It's safe, and mostly clean. Just too much stuff to be neat. :wink:
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Hey Rich, Greetings from Paris!
Where are the pics of your new tower you promised?
Don't forget, I have the badges for you.
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Yeah, where's the tower pix? :wink:
BTW - Greetings from Shanghai - one more week here.
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Sorry guys... it is coming, but we are waiting on a console from Gause. The tower was built for a Gause console (tapers at the front) so mine will not work. Travis wants a console there before we do some "personalization" to the tower. Plus I still need to pick a color for top/upholstry. I'm in no hurry though- lots of fairing to go.
BTW, that means I will have a center console available, should anyone be interested.
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Is this the console you'll be getting rid of?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Console.jpg)
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That was it... but it has been rebuilt. I needed a norrower console for use with a tower. Some may find that to be good - others not. It just needs to be faired and painted - all glasswork is done.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03036.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03042.JPG)
It is about 6" higher than the original, and 6" narrower.
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So here is the casting platform coming to fruition. Set up for final measurements:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03391.JPG)
Glassed into place:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03405.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03407.JPG)
Now it's time to build some more lids. Also gelcoated everything upfront this weekend prior to installation - nice to get some things done.
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keep up the good work
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Thanks... trying to keep it moving.
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Sorry about the lack of posts lately. I have made some good progress, but have been too busy (read: lazy) after getting done to put them up.
As of now, transom/cap joint is glassed, transom overlap over old skin is finished, and I have done some other small glasswork.
However last weekend was all about getting the boat upside down. The bottom of the hull needs some glasswork - and I WILL NOT do that on my back with resin falling on me. So I needed to get the boat to a shop to flip it - but that meant I needed to trailer it. However the trailer I bought (knew this when I bought it) needed new brakes and bearings. While I was doing that, I decided it would be nice to do all new springs/shackles/bolts. So this past weekend I built myself a new trailer - give or take. Kodiak stainless disks on all 4 wheels - and all other hardware.
Then the boat was trailered to Hammerhead where Tommy was kind enough (for a fee, obviously) to flip her over. She is now sitting in my yard upside down on the trailer - begging for me to remove the bottom paint.
I bought a "wet sandblast" attachment for my pressure washer - will try it out saturday and report back on details. Goal is to remove all bottom paint with no dust - and less pitting than traditional sandblasting. This should be somewhere between sandblasting and soda blasting.
Here is a link to the tool:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_8520_8520
Plan is to get the bottom fair, then paint it while it's still upside down. In addition to that, I am going to glass the deck/hull joint from the inside while she's upside down too.
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Could please post some pictures of your boat upside down on the trailer!
I need to flip mine and the trailer the only place I have to put it!
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Yessir - will have some up Sat/Sun. Between the rain and getting dark at 6:30pm - I have not been able to take any.
I did build a decent support system to keep the majority of the weight off the gunnels. Will post that too.
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What I want a report on is how the blaster works. :wink: The only other attachment I found was $300.
Glad to hear you are still making progress Rich. I was beginning to wonder.
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JJ- I keep wondering myself. I work and work and it looks like not much gets done. However being "done" with all the major construction is a goo feeling - all fairing, paint and rigging from here.
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You have made some major progress. Sad to say but the little stuff takes more time than the big stuff. :roll:
Hang in there.
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So here are the pictures promised. First, the boat upside down on the trailer - and a shot from the stern looking forward from the underside. Note the supports.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03508.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03504.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC035061.JPG)
Note in these pictures the bottom was obviously painted. Here it is coming off. I used a "wet sandblast" method - basically a pressure washer attachment that picks up sand at the end of the venturi. Worked very well - did not kill the gelcoat, but took the multiple layers of paint off easily. Took me about 4 hours to get it satisfactory.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03499.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03502.JPG)
Note that in those shots there is still sand on the hull - that's why it looks very rough.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03513.JPG)
Paint is finally off. Time to hit it with a high speed and 60 grit to get some of the remaining paint off (didn't want to pit the gelcoat with the blaster)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03519.JPG)
Found some stress cracks around the windows I filled in - so I ground out the cracks and filled them, then a layer of 1.5 oz mat. Have some more cracks I need to grind out and see how deep they are - not happy about that. This will take some time to fair.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03528.JPG)
While that glass was kicking, started hitting the hull with the DA (and the board sander) to get the grinder marks out. The blue areas in these shots are fairing compound.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03530.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03526.JPG)
Here is my attempt to show you the finished product (minus a little more fairing)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03531.JPG)
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Thanks for the pics! I've been follow your project from the begining. It has been very helpfull I'm pretty much following it step by step! Only differents is the size mine 19'6 you 22'2 also your way ahead of me! Keep up the good work I know I'm not the only one you've helped!
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Thanks Matt - it is nice to hear that it helps folks out - keeps me motivated to continue the detailed commentary and photos.
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Glad to hear that wet blaster worked Rich. I have a good Honda washer, 2750 psi and 2.something gpm so I think mine will work. The savings on that will buy a gallon of paint ;)
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LilRich man I wish I had the time and knowledge you have to sit down and take this job on, but with kids, work, and the wife there not that much time left in my bank. you should be real proud of this project when your done. keep up the good work and keep the pics coming.
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Thanks Dave. I don't have kids, but the work and wife do tend to prolong projects. Why do you think I have a year and a half into this darned thing? :shock:
I just need to get this bottom work done quickly and get her flipped back over.
As for the knowledge, that is not something I had when I began this project - other than general knowledge of glasswork and a desire to learn. It is all from members here, at CM, and a few other kind folks like Tommy.
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So last night was not so good. I had some pretty heavy gelcoat crazing/cracking I found when the bottom paint came off. I knew the stringers in the inside were cracked, so attributed it to that. However when I started grinding into the cracks, I found that I had some VERY serious de-lamination in the hull. The most serious area was around the keel pad - looked like whoever laid up the hull did not grind the skin coat before laying the keel pad down - because as I ground away more glass I kept finding voids where there was actually shiny glass.
Needless to say this is yet another setback in this saga. It is an easy fix (prolly 10 hours of work total) but the fairing is going to be impossible. I basically have a four foot wide strip down the middle of the boat that needs to be faired in. In addition, there was some more deflection cracks that occurred randomly around the keel. I have some pics, will post up soon. Just a little disappointed that what should have been a month of bottom work just turned into a really big deal.
I am really frustrated with the way this boat was built - shame. However I am not going to half a$$ this thing and have to go back and do more work later. Sorry to vent.
:(
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...The most serious area was around the keel pad - looked like whoever laid up the hull did not grind the skin coat before laying the keel pad down - because as I ground away more glass I kept finding voids where there was actually shiny glass.
Rich, just what is a keelpad - I read that in a lot of rebuilds but have no clue.
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I am referring to the glass (inside the hull) which serves to cover the keel. It is basically a 6-8" wide strip of glass that is flat when viewed from the inside of the hull.
I highlited it here on the inside of my hull... it runs in the direction of the arrow...
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/Keelpad.JPG)
The actual keel is directly below that. When they laminated the hull, that joint was flawed - and there is significant delamination at the joint.
I ground it all down (finished tonight) now it's time to rebuild.
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Lilrichard: What ever happened with the tower you were getting from travis? I was in last week and i didn't see it in the shop, you end up getting it or he sell it to someone else?
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It is still there - I told him to take his time on it because (obviously) I am in no rush. Spoke to him last week and they were finishing it up... should have it this month. I just didn't see any reason to have him hurry through it when it's just going in my garage for a few months.
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Richard, that really stinks. We found the same thing in our demo. We ground a lot out and added quite a bit of new glass.
At least you have the boat upside down and you can make some repairs
That keel really takes a beating and should have been made a little thicker (they should have known these boats would be re-built 40 years later :D ). Ours still had a solid, but waterlogged, piece of fir in there.
Off the top of my head I cannot think of an easy way to make the repair. A sure way is to grind the keel down until its very thin, and use it as a form to lay new glass. You would have to lap it down onto the hull be about 6" on each side, which would require some faring work. :cry:
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I hate to hear that Rich.
Keep your spirits up.
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Shine - that is exactly what I have done - I ground out 6" on either side of the keel the entire way down the hull. My keel however is solid glass so far as I can tell. I did a few test holes in it and I think it is solid polyester/fibers. I just need to reglass the keel to the hull - which is easy. Fairing is hard.
Plus the delam of the keel combined with the cracked stringers led to some pretty heavy crazing/cracking - so I ground that out too.
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My keel however is solid glass so far as I can tell. I did a few test holes in it and I think it is solid polyester/fibers.
Im sure it is.
What I was referring to was to basically make a new keel from the outside, using the old keel as a form (after you ground it down thin). So if the keel is a couple inches high and wide, then you would lay 18" wide strips over the ground down keel, building up the new part..... this is the more drastic option
Im sure the new tabbing will work also as long as the glass in the keel is in decent shape.
All in all its not too terrible a set back, I know its frustrating because you were probably mentally past all the glassing and grinding :lol:
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Gotcha.
The old keel is in OK shape - but I was planning on adding a few layers of 1808 to it - most likely 2 or 3, and carrying those layers out onto the hull in increasing widths. That should cure nay issues (hopefully).
And yes, I was VERY over the grinding/glassing stage.
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Ok, here is a great shot illustrating the delamination and subsequent craking along the keel:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03532.JPG)
Not very pretty. As you can see, some spots were worse than others:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03534.JPG)
Here I am looking silly applying glass to the keel. As you can see, there is a layer of 1808 laid across the keel that overlaps where the bad glass was - there are 2 layers of 1808 total. This picture is after I had already patched some of the deeper areas I ground out:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03559.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03560.JPG)
Time to grind again and start fairing.
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...may the Schwartz be with you....
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(http://llamabutchers.mu.nu/spaceballs.jpg)
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Started the fairing process last night. Here is the Stbd side window (recall I removed them and glassed this area in):
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03598.JPG)
Here is a shot of the glasswork around the keel being faired:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC0359931.JPG)
More to follow after this weekend.
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Alright - another weekend gone and I am closer to priming the bottom.
The front of the keel was not in particularly good shape - even all the way up to the stem of the boat - so I added a little structural putty to fill in some voids and layed a new layer of 1808 all the way up, followed by a layer of 6oz to reduce print through.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC036043.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03606.JPG)
That was obviously all faired out too. Thanks to my good friend Jake for giving me a respite on the DA:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03721.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03722.JPG)
Looks a little better now:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03723.JPG)
There were some areas along the chine which I repaired a long time ago - but never faired or got the edges right - here is an example before any fairing:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03724.JPG)
Then it was time to move back to prepping for paint. Where I had done glasswork already had been faired out - but the some of the gelcoat still had some deep scratches from the high speed I took the bottom paint off with. So I started with an 80 grit and removed the deep scratches. Then I "tiger striped" or guide coated the hull with cheap spray paint. Then hit the hull with 120 grit. It took us a few hours of work, but the hull is now SMOOTH.
I forgot to take shots of the "finished product", but will toss some up laer this week. Also started fairing the transom - it looks nice.
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Think END OF APRIL, END OF APRIL, END OF APRIL :wink:
Looks good man.
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This is where it starts getting fun.
I had never shot a LPU paint before - and from the tribulations I had witnessed from other folks on these sites, I was a little worried. I used Awlgrip 545 - both gray and white primers - gray on the bottom as a "signal coat" for sanding, and white on top to reduce the amount of topcpat I will have to put down. I followed the directions (imagine that) and I thought the process went smoothly. Granted, this was only primer - but if it is any indication of what the topcoat will spray like, I am really happy.
So first I built myself a "redneck paint booth":
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03787.JPG)
I setup my inline air filter in the canopy. Setup my mixing area in my workshop - didn't want any contaminants in the paint. For the record, you should use forced air when shooting these paints - but with a ton of ventilation this setup is marginally acceptable.
I sprayed a "tack coat" of gray first, and let that kick for 45mins:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03780.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03781.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03783.JPG)
Note the paint is not layed on thick in the "tack coat" stage.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03785.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03786.JPG)
After a second coat of gray, I switched to white and layed down two coats. Here are the results:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03789.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03791.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03792.JPG)
Now I will start sanding this down - and fixing some of my shoddy body work that popped out when I put the primer on (no surprise). I will spot prime the areas that I fair out, sand them, and then it is time for the topcoat.
I am torn as to what I will use for the topcoat. I can use Imron, or I might use something like Interlux VC Epoxy - apparently that is what they use on a lot of go-fast boats. Supposed to be very hard and very slick. Anyone have any feedback/thoughts on either? This boat will be a trailer queen - maybe left in the water for five to seven days max - and that would be very infrequent.
I am starting to really get the itch to finish this thing up!
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I've heard nothing but bad things about painting the bottom sides of boats, it will bubble and start to peel if it stays wet for any amount of time. Even trailer bunk carpet holds enough water to ruin a painted finish. You might want to consider gelcoating the bottom or using a bottom paint.
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Actually I have heard nothing but great things about painting the bottom of boats with Imron or Awlgrip - that's actually what a good deal or rebuilders do. This will not work for boats that sit in the water, but for my application it should be fine.
And btw, VC Epoxy is a bottom paint - if that is what I decide to use.
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Just wanted to give you a heads up, a local builder I know has had problems with it on bottoms, blisters very easily once scratched as well. I would definately go with a paint that the manufacturer recommends using on boat bottoms. Call up the manufacturers and check before you make that kind of investment. Might want to check into dupont's nason finishes. Quite a bit cheaper than awl grip and its basically the same.
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I appreciate your input... I will do that.
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LilRichard, I painted my last boat with Awlgrip. It was painted white on the bottom just like yours and it was a trailer queen. Never left it in long enough for anything to grow on it. I never had a problem with any bubbles in the paint or anything of that nature. Boat was painted 2 years ago and still looks good as I see it on occassion when I fish with my father. :wink:
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Thanks for the feedback... I am leaning toward either Imron or VC Epoxy - need to make up my mind. The white on there now is Awlgrip 545. Sadly I still have a little fairing to do, then spot prime, sand again, and paint.
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More work complete... "Tiger striped" (guide coated) the primer to ensure an even sand:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03865.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03863.JPG)
Then came the sanding:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03898.JPG)
Hit it with the block and the DA - a little of each. I will hand block the sides, but the bottom is the bottom.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03899.JPG)
You can see the grey primer underneath where I hit some high spots:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03905.JPG)
Then came the topcoat... WOOHOO!!!
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03914.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03915.JPG)
Then we went over to Quality and checked out the progress on the tower:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/PIC-0037.jpg)
That's all she wrote for now. Need to lightly sand the bottom (it was a mass suicide of bugs) and buff - but it will be right side up soon.
Heading to the Keys in two weeks for some fishing, so it might be a little while till I post more pics.
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Looking good Rick.
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I'll go to the Keys in your place and you stay home working on the boat ;)
Looking great.
I can show you a ton of boats with Awlgrip or Imron bottoms with absolutely no issues. I can also show you the same number of boats with factory gelcoat that are blistered all to hell, including trailered boats with bunk blisters. Gelcoat is no better at sealing water out than a good paint. Bottom paint will NOT seal out water. That's the reason one is supposed to seal the bottom with something like Interlux Interprotect 2000E to prevent water absorption by fiberglass before using bottom paint on boats that are left in the water.
https://secure.international-coatings.c ... 000186.htm (https://secure.international-coatings.com/pds/yacht/GB_ISO_I_5000186.htm)
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Lookin good bro.
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Don't want to deny you guys any boat porn - so here is a (not so exciting) update...
If you recall, the transom DID look like this:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03503.JPG)
After about an hour with the grinder, another light layer of mat, and some fairing compound, it now looks like this:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03955.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03958.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC03956.JPG)
It is VERY straight. I have hit the entire transom with compound and sanded it twice - I will do a little more spot filling, then it is done. I also hit the bottom with a high speed (I was bored Sunday after a few beers) and the shine really came out in the paint.
My plan is to have it right side up again when I return from the keys in two weeks - then it is time to fair the inside. One of these days I may actually put it in the water...
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So it's been a while since I have posted, but that is due to a lack of good pictures, not a lack of progress. The boat is rightside up now, and I have been grinding all of the glass on the inside of the hull. Did I mention how much I hate grinding glass? Anyway, will begin fairing today on the inside - hope to be painting in the next month or so.
The only cool pictures I have are of the tower I picked up last night from Quality. I have mentioned it before, but they are really great to work with. Travis was very patient with me, and really treated me like his only customer. Not to mention his product is really a work of art.
Here is the best porn I can provide at this time:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04173.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04175.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04176.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04174.JPG)
I'll post some fairing pics later this weekend.
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That tower looks great :!: :!:
Remember as you go through the filling/fairing process, that if it ain't a structural thing and your beating yourself up over cosmetic perfection, remember that first huge wave that'll crack anything that you did on the cosmetic side. Don't get too perfectionist.....
"get her done"
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Thanks Rick.
I am going for a moderate level of "perfectionism". 8)
No, I am not planning on going overboard. This is the part people "see", so I want to make sure it looks good too.
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As promised, some fairing pictures... Casting platform - needs a few touch ups but otherwise done:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04183.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04179.JPG)
Transom cap 1st fairing coat:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04186.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04192.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04190.JPG)
Going to try to get the transom done today, and maybe another couple of sections of the inside sides.
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Looking Good.
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looking great, finished product should be awesome
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that first huge wave that'll crack anything that you did on the cosmetic side.
Not if it's done properly ;)
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that first huge wave that'll crack anything that you did on the cosmetic side.
Not if it's done properly ;)
Agreed - but don't want to jinx myself either!
8)
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wow - removing all the gelcoat, what a job :!: :D
I think its a good idea.
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LilRichard,
I've been wrapped up in my own project I have not followed anyone else for awhile. Looking good!!
I'm probably a week or so from turning my boat over to do the bottom and hull and you've gone thru that process, did you sand thru the gelcoat to the glass??
Have you decided on Imron or Awlgrip??
By the way, tower looks nice.
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Thanks!
Only sanded through the gelcoat where necessary to make deep repairs... although that was about 1/3 of the bottom - ugh. If the gelcoat is good, leave it and prime/paint.
I'll prolly go Imron outside (on account of being able to blend a repair) - Awlgrip inside.
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LilRichard,
Got it, that's what I was thinking. I haven't done enough research on paint and I hadn't heard that about being able to blend Imron for repairs. What type/size of compressor/spraygun setup do you have for spraying??
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I have an 80gal compressor that supplies about 15CFM @ 90psi. I have been using cheap HVLP guns - but I may let someone else paint the hullsides... we'll see how the inside turns out.
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So nothing of excitement this weekend - all fairing/sanding that does not add any "wow value". I got the floor done, then started on the cap. 80% of the cap is done, just need to get the corners finished.
Plan is to do a little more work this week, then hopefully be priming the first weekend in May. Hopefully.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04239.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04241.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04237.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04238.JPG)
I'll post some pics once it is primed!
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LilRichard,
Looking good -- this is the part that is time consuming and requires alot of patience!! The worst part is you can spend hours and it looks like you've made no progress, but you'll be able to tell with that first coat. Good job!
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I have been dying to get some primer on the inside to see how well (or not) I had faired this thing out. This weekend I got my wish. Keep in mind all of these were taken while the primer was still wet, so some of them look rather wavy (even more than it is) because of that.
I first sprayed 545 on the insides and about a foot into the floor (those will be the only shiny surfaces - rest of floor will be nonskid. Then I hit the cap with highbuild to take care of a few small issues.
Note the anchor storage area I built this weekend in the front of the bow:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04257.JPG)
The good news? The cap is better than I thought - the only imperfection is in this picture, note the dimples right near the fuel fill:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04254.JPG)
The bad news? The hullsides are worse than I thought. I need to do one more round of fairing on the inside:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04253.JPG)
I have a bad eye for this stuff when there are different colors, textures, etc - so I always have to hit it with primer to "see where I am". Here's a few more shots. Back cap transition looks pretty smooth (IMO):
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04252.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04255.JPG)
I did have a few bugs commit suicide:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04256.JPG)
So I will now guide-stripe the inside, sand away, and fair one more time with a hope of priming again next weekend.
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Looks good LilRichard, at least your starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel
Marc..
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Yea, right. It's gonna look like crap when you're done. All you are doing is rushing through the job, not thinking anything out and basically making a huge mess. It's like you don't even care. Geesh, I mean, only 22 pages of threads, that's ridiculous. What an embarrassment.
8) 8) :lol: :lol:
She's lookin' great dude... :twisted:
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LilRichard,
You're motivating me!! What a difference a coat of primer makes, coming along very nicely!!!!
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I don't mean to bring up old posts, but where did you get the foam for your stringers and does it have a name? I am ready to do my stringers and have really found your step by step posts very helpful! Any help would be great.
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Why would anyone mind you bringing up old psts? That's what we post for! :D
Anyway, it is 2 (or 3?) pound polyurethane foam from FGCI in St Pete. It comes in 4x8 sheets , I used 2" thick board. It is REALLY easy to work with, and is not too brittle. I think I bought 3 sheets total in my hull for everything, and have a half sheet left.
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The suspense is killing me!! What happens next??? LOL
Looking good.
What kind of primer are you using? Can you use automotive gray primer? Also I AM new... What is fairing? Same as sanding it down smooth?
DoubleL
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Thanks again Richard, I go up to FGCI all the time!
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Double L:
Yes - fairing / sanding are the same thing.
I am using an epoxy primer made by Awlgrip called 545. You could use other epoxy primers - but I get 545 pretty cheap (comparatively).
What's next? Wear my arms out sanding, then reprime, then sand some more and paint. It's almost there.
8)
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Sadly, I missed the gathering this weekend - I decided to work out my arms instead. Hit the entire hull one more time with some compound, and really focused on the corners and edges.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04263.JPG)
As you can see, I just skim coated the insides - easier than spot working, and more effective IMO. I blew through a lot of sandpaper this weekend.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04265.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04269.JPG)
Also finished a few low spots on the transom cap. You would most likely never see these imperfections (it will be non-skid) but hate to find out that's wrong later.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04264.JPG)
Will be doing some more detail work this week at night, then final priming next weekend for sure. I am getting excited.
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ALRIGHT! Now we have some progress!
First I hit the entire hull with gray 545 so that I will have a guide when I sand (if you see gray - STOP sanding).
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04350.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04349.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04347.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04352.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04354.JPG)
Let that coat setup, then started hitting everything with white 545 - it will be easier to spray white topcoat over white primer:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04374.JPG)
A few small runs - this was my first time using a pressure pot.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04370.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04372.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04369.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04371.JPG)
Then just for grins, I hit the transom too:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04367.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04373.JPG)
So now it is time for a light sanding, then the topcoat! Sorry for all the pictures - I am just rather excited right now... all my effort in fairing did pay off. The lines look clean, the corners are in good shape, and I only have a few small pinholes to fill.
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It's really coming around Rick. I would be excited too.
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LOOKING GREAT!!
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Man, with all that work done, once finish I'm sure you are not going to start another project like this, just looking at it, my arms are sore
Nice work
Marc..
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Thanks guys.
Guide coated the primer today, started sanding again. Will post pics shortly.
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lilrichard,
Looking good!! Progress is a beautiful thing!!
BTW, wondering what type of fairing compound you are using??
Again, nice job!
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MJB-
Thanks.
I started with America's Cup over the bare glass - it is cheap and fills well without shrinking. Once I prime though - I have to switch to an epoxy based compound to adhere to the 545 - so I am using Interlux Watertite. That stuff is great - spreads super smooth, no pinholes, easy to work with.
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LilRichard,
I opted for the Interlux Water Tite and ordered it yesterday and will be picking it up tonight along with some 545 primer. I'm really hoping to get some fairing done this weekend.
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ALRIGHT!!! Here is something fun to post - the inside sides are finished!
Here are some shots of the inside being guide coated for sanding (after priming):
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04392.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04393.JPG)
Yes, my arms are tired. Some shots of priming the floor this week:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04414.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04418.JPG)
Now the good stuff - first coat of Awlgrip Offwhite. Keep in mind I have NEVER shot Awlgrip before - but it is very easy, and the results were very good. The first coat is a "Tack coat" only, so you will see a few primer spots showing through:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04419.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04420.JPG)
I put down three coats all together. I was debating how much gloss I really wanted on the inside, and I opted for a small amount of flattening agent so I won't be blinded in the direct sun. Here is the final coat - note even with the flattening additive it still has plenty of gloss:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04423.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04426.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04427.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04433.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04434.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04435.JPG)
Tomorrow we will paint the cap - then it is time for non-skid! I would like to reiterate - this process was really easy. If you have ever painted - it will be no problem to lay this stuff down. Obviously spraying it is the easy part - the prep work is the time consuming part.
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SWEET :thumleft: :thumright:
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Looking good. What color non skid you going with?
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Thanks guys.
Going to go with a light gray - my top is gray, along with the trim on my upholstery.
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It really is a great feeling to have two days of work pay off like this. All the nights of fairing, priming, fairing again have finally come together. Here is a shot of us this morning prepping for painting the cap:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04438.JPG)
Then came the fun part again. Here are some results:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04441.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04443.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04446.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04444.JPG)
Once again, very impressed with how well this paint flows and the shine is awesome - I just went outside a few minutes ago and it still looks wet. Great stuff. Anyway, will be prepping for nonskid soon - then hoping to paint the outside in the next three weeks.
Have a great Memorial Day tomorrow!
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Boy, that does shine!
It looks like it's poured on :wink:
In the sun it will show up on a satellite photo.
Lookin' really good!!
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that looks great man for the hull just wet the floor down every were around the boat no fans blowing towards your work and park the cars far away :wink: and let rip
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The interior is now complete! Taped off the non skid yesterday:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04487.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04488.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04489.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04491.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04492.JPG)
Then we applied the non-skid. Used Kiwigrip - see here: http://www.pachena.com/
Note the Aquasport logo in the deck:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04493.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04494.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04496.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04497.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04498.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04504.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04506.JPG)
So now it is time to fair and prime the outside - want to be shooting paint within 30 days, MAX. Will order the porta bracket shortly, along with helms, throttles, etc. After that, time to start rigging!
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The badge/logo is a very nice touch which also adds to the originality of this rebuild. Looking GREAT Rick 8)
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(http://www.floridasportsman.com/art/cool.gif)
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Way Cool!!!!!
:thumright: :thumright: :thumright: :thumright:
See ya on the water - soon!!
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Awesome.
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Thanks again guys - just want her done now!
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Wow that is nice
Marc..
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+1 on the logos. This will be some kinda rebuild :compress:
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LilRichard,
Man that looks good -- really nice touch with the logo, looks incredible. You should be real proud of this rebuild!! What a major evolution to finally get paint on the inside. Keep up the good work!!
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Thanks again guys - appreciate the kind words.
BTW, I got a PDF made from the badge JimCT sent me - that's how I had the decal made for the floor. So if you are interested, PM me and I'll email along the file.
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THAT NONSKID LOOKS REALLY NICE. DID YOU USE THE WHITE OR GREY KIWIGRIP?
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That is "Whisper gray".
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awesome job dude. i must say, as this has progressed, im not surprised of the job you have done. excellent!!!!!!!
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Once again, I am in fairing mode and there just aren't a lot of exciting pictures. I had some cracking along the chine I had fixed - which took some fairing to get right. The transom/hullside joint also needed work. Here you go:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04562.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04565.JPG)
Obviously the hull was taped off and ready at that point, and I shot the primer Saturday. Started with a layer of gray - it is a great aid for me while sanding. If I see gray, stop!
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04568.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04570.JPG)
I don't lay the gray on heavy - just a light coat. Then I put down three coats of white... that way I have some material to sand off.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04573.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04574.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04575.JPG)
Then it was time to "guide coat" the hull:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04578.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04580.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04579.JPG)
I actually got the hull sanded yesterday, however it started raining right when I finished, so no pics. I did manage to snap an amusing shot of my dog running away with my (empty) 12 pack:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04611.JPG)
I am now ready for a topcoat, although I will be out of town this weekend... so it may have to wait until the next week.
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So I am heading up to Chicago this weekend and expect to come back plus a few pounds (Lou Malnati's rocks!) but thought I would add a few pictures before my departure.
Here are a couple of shots of the sanded outside (pretty boring):
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04615.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04617.JPG)
But here is the cool part - I got my switch panel from Scott Cambra at Vector Imaging. It is all LED backlit, and has a main bus that makes it easy for wiring. The workmanship on this is top notch, and Scott is very enthusiastic about getting things right...
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04613.JPG)
I am also having him do some underwater lights, and he is replicating some badges for me for the exterior (in my color scheme).
I also picked up my rubrail, ordered my porta bracket, and am about to order my steering and throttle setups. This is definitely the fun (but expensive) part of the process.
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All looks good. Have a nice, safe trip.
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WOW looks like there might be a boat better looking then mine on the water soon. :D Keep up the good work you have come so far!! Just picture the days of you and your wife cruising around the gulf are just around the bend..... I think the large snook are attracted to the flatback. I had a large snook out work my 2500 staratic last trip. I got some good pics on myspace find me www.myspace.com/jamesx54x29 (http://www.myspace.com/jamesx54x29)
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Thanks James... hope she looks as good as yours.
Been buying lots of parts - got my helms and throttle setup this week. Also mounted the door on the console and the seat up front:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04776.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04777.JPG)
Also got this on Thursday - as you can see, the boat will be Aquamist...
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04770.JPG)
Also picked up my paint - going with Dupont MS600 - it's a new Imron specifically for marine use. Has some blister additives in it and is supposed to be a very high solid base. More to come soon.
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So I decided to gamble on the weather today, and it looks like I got lucky! Got up at 6am and started taping. Wanted to spray as soon as the AM humidity dropped off in order to avoid any afternoon Tboomers. I was painting by about 9.
By the way, I have something on the lens of my camera, note the small dark semi circle in the middle of light pics... need to get it fixed. It is not a big flaw in the paint!
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04778.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04779.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04782.JPG)
Then the tape and plastic came off...
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04784.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04786.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04787.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04791.JPG)
The paint came out well, but I definitely think Imron is harder to shoot than Awlgrip. The Imron was more prone to orange peel, and I also got a few small sags. Lucky for me, I can sand/buff Imron... so that will be happening shortly. Time to start rigging!
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Richard.. That is looking really good. Keep it up. I can't wait.
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VERY nice 8)
When I shot my boat with Imron I found the paint to be very thin/fine and I got sags too.
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If your getting sags and your not laying it on real heavy you probably want to go down to a smaller tip size on the gun. It means that the thinner paint is coming out of your gun easier and your piling it on. Either change the tip or change your spraying technique to compensate. Try to spray in long runs if you can, that way you dont have vertical overlap blocks, you just have the horizontal lines that overlap over the length of the boat, like lapstrakes.
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If your getting sags and your not laying it on real heavy you probably want to go down to a smaller tip size on the gun. It means that the thinner paint is coming out of your gun easier and your piling it on. Either change the tip or change your spraying technique to compensate. Try to spray in long runs if you can, that way you dont have vertical overlap blocks, you just have the horizontal lines that overlap over the length of the boat, like lapstrakes.
Nope, just sh*tty technique on my part. Thought I could lay it on heavier than I could... the paint looks like it is orange peeling badly when you spray it lightly - but it actually flows after a few minutes. I am used to "flowing" automotive paints by laying it down a little heavier... however that is not how this paint behaves.
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It looks good from the pics. What psi are you spraying? Im shooting mine at 35-40 psi, but thats the gelcoat. However, I have noticed a big difference between air pressures and how it lays out. You might just be able to tweak the gun a bit to make it lay out. Even straight gel will lay flat if the tip and psi are correct. Try fiddling with it some to see if you can get it right before you spray more, might save a lot of wetsanding. Looking good though.
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It just keeps getting more and more fun for me. The more parts I put on, the closer I feel myself getting to the water - and Tarpon!
Rubrail and Porta-Bracket on:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04825.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04826.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04829.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04831.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04833.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04835.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04839.JPG)
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SWEET!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D
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Someone likes Red Stripe....
Good call on the black rubrail. It's the way to go.
Looking sharp.
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So the question I had been pondering was how to get the tower in the boat. After trying various rigs, we figured it would not be possible without some help... and the wife had a good idea. So how do you do it? Get 2 fellow jokers to help carry it to the vacant yard across the street:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04853.JPG)
Rent a cherry picker (heh heh, always wanted to play with one of these):
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04856.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04861.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04866.JPG)
Walla!!
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04872.JPG)
Just don't tell the folks at Home Depot...
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So, it looks like a race between you and Wysongia to see who's on the water first.
Your boat is looking great, can't wait to see it wet.
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Won't be long now 8)
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Wow, looks great!
The cherry picker looks fun too! :o :shock: Good idea, chalk one up for the wife!
BTW, I was out in the channel next to Egmont this weekend catching crabs and fishing for Tarpon. It seemed like everyone around me was hooking up except me! Oh well, still a good day on the water.
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beautiful boat! Its been a while since i've been on this site but my boat that I built looks identical. Awe grip sea foam green, quality tower and a 175 suzuki 4 stroke.
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beautiful boat! Its been a while since i've been on this site but my boat that I built looks identical. Awe grip sea foam green, quality tower and a 175 suzuki 4 stroke.
Why'd you stop posting pix?
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beautiful boat! Its been a while since i've been on this site but my boat that I built looks identical. Awe grip sea foam green, quality tower and a 175 suzuki 4 stroke.
Why'd you stop posting pix?
yea dude, WTF?! i wanna see!
sweet job Rich, that looks awesome!
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Looking nice!
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Looks real nice!! Great work.
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Richard, is that motor a 20" or 25" shaft? I can't tell from the picture
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It's a 25".
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I know I have not posted recently, it's just because I have been working on the boat, and managed to change jobs in between too. The hull is almost fully rigged, needs the pumps mounted, lights mounted, and a few other odds and ends.
Here are some shots (excuse the mess while rigging):
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04909.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04912.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04924.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04916.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04915.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04919.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04921.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04918.JPG)
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how many life jackets fit in your t top storage
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awesome dude. coming along very nice!
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how many life jackets fit in your t top storage
Dunno yet - I will let you know. I guess 3-4 type 1s
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Almost there. 'Bout time to get some fish blood on that rig....
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Almost there. 'Bout time to get some fish blood on that rig....
Yep, that's the only thing missing
Marc..
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You have no idea Steve-O, I am DYING to run this thing. Took it to have her fired off at the marina where the motor was purchased (to activate warranty). The motor took a few tries, but fired up and killed all mosquitoes for a 2 mile radius.
Boat should go in the water late Saturday early Sunday for a sea trial. Pictures to follow.
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I can officially say that I will not have to bum a ride to the next gathering!
Dropped it in at Gandy yesterday afternoon for a quick run - ran around the bay (near the launch for the first half hour). Then got brave and ran up to the causeway to put some time on the motor. Ran great - think I may need slightly more prop - but will not know for sure till I can open her up a bit. As of now, it runs about 30mph at 4500 RPMs - but I think it has a LOT more room on the throttle. From Ken's (Propgods - nice guy, great to work with) recommendation I am running a 19P Power Tech OXP on it...
Boat still needs the front two hatches bolted on, but I HAD to get on the water this weekend. What can you do?
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04950.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04951.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04953.JPG)
My buddy Jake (who helped me build this thing) gets a turn at the wheel:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04959.JPG)
Then went out today for some sun and more hours on the motor. More pics to follow of that later.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/theproject/websize/DSC04996.JPG)
I am VERY happy to have this (mostly) done! Time to go fishing.
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Congratulations Richard :!:
She looks great and appears that you got the balance just right as well.
:D :) :D :) :D :)
MD :wink:
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Looks GREAT!!
Quit smiling so much :wink:
We'll save a place for you at the upcoming gathering 8)
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:lol: Great looking boat//// ART work! Richard. You realy know how to inspire a fellow. LOL I was going to sell mine ?? But after seeing yours i want to go right outand start on mine. i dont blame you for that big smile!!! just send evereone sun glasses. congrads. sweeeet!! 8)
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Wow, looks great. I'm going to have to stop by and see it in person.
How's it ride up top?
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Wow, looks great. I'm going to have to stop by and see it in person.
How's it ride up top?
Thanks!
Rides well - my 62 year old dad thought it was the best seat in the house, if that is any indication.
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Glad to see you got it wet, now you need some fish in her. Looks great, nice job all the way around.
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Well this thread is about complete as far as the "rebuild" portion is concerned - thought I would post one more "on the water" shot for you guys:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/usingtheboat/websize/DSC05055.JPG)
We had a nice trip out yesterday... what a relaxing way to spend the day (versus grinding fiberglass)!
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Its good to see hard work pay off. Nice boat
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Great job Rich, I love the color!
Just an FYI, you need to add a full letter space to your registration numbers after FL and before HK.
http://www.flhsmv.gov/dmv/vslfacts.html#8 (http://www.flhsmv.gov/dmv/vslfacts.html#8)
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Great job my man.
I especially like the two drink holders :)
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I wanted to update you guys on the boat, and show you the cover that was made by Shumake Boat tops in Tampa.
For the record, I am pretty darned meticulous - and I thought the work done by Shumake was top notch. Pete was very cool to work with, had some good ideas, and steered me toward (gasp) a more cost efficient material for the cover. I would certainly recommend them for your upholstery needs.
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/themonster/websize/DSC05138.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/themonster/websize/DSC05143.JPG)
He also did some more interior work, pics to follow.
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Did you use Sunbrella? Also, what's the height from the deck to the bottom of the upper helm platform?
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I must say, amazing inspirational work. I must ask, what was your budget, not including the massive tower?
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Love2fish - actually we used something called "Top Gun", it is less expensive then sunbrella and more tear resistant. I asked about Sunbrella, and he was happy to oblige for more $$$, but I followed his recommendation - he has been doing it for most of his life. This stuff looks very tough.
We did use sunbrella for some hatch drapes - matches the top (shade on the tower). Pics of those soon.
Compcrasher - thanks. I would guess excluding the tower I am into it for the high 20s (excl trailer).
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Did you use Sunbrella? Also, what's the height from the deck to the bottom of the upper helm platform?
Sorry - meant to add - tower floor is 6'4 off the sole.
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thanks. I have been wondering about the height of the 2nd level of towers. I've really learned alot reading your write up on your rebuild. Thanks for going the extra mile on explaining and taking pictures of everything. Great looking boat!
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The screws should not be an issue for two reasons: 1) they are not structural... they were only used to bring the floor completely into contact the stringers until the tabbing and 5200 cures. 2) the screws went through the floor into the stringers, but they are completely encapsulated. They are sealed by 5200 at the stringer/floor seam (where they enter the stringer) and they have been glassed over on the top.
Then the top of the floor was glassed with a layer of 3615 followed by a layer of 1808. Basically that's equivalent to 3 layers of 1808.
Let me know if anyone has any other questions...[/quote]
Richard, did you use treated screws? Asking because I think pressure treated wood has chemicals that will eat threw regular drywall screws. I think I've read somewhere that "marine grade" plywood does not use the same chemicals thoguh. Just wondering what you used. Thanks
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Beautiful...
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?
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OOPS...non sequitur.
Was referring to LilRichard's masterpiece.
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L2F - think they were regular drywall screws.
JimCT - Thanks! Where you been man? We need to get you down here!
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You've had her floatable for a while now, any updates?
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Nothing you guys don't already know, but a few thoughts:
1) When it gets sloppy, bury the tabs and she'll plow through pretty snotty stuff. I have been in real 2-3' heavy chop and it does not pound if you keep the bow down and ease back on the throttle.
2) She runs SKINNY. When running around St Pete / Clwtr, you could almost ignore the channel markers (except being careful for the sea grass, of course).
3) When tabs are down, she bow steers heavily. Not the worst thing, but takes constant input at the helm to keep her in line
4) She's fun in a tight turn. Back end will definitely let go if you don't take it easy. I have had inboard ski boats (flat back, tend to slide) so I am used to it...
5) I overbuilt the boat. The two layers of glass I added to the hull put my mind at ease, but she is definitely a little heavy. Even with all the weight moved forward, she still sits rear-end heavy.
Luckily I have not run into any "ah ha" moments yet - where I realize I should have done something different. Very pleased with the hull, motor and porta bracket.
Still need to do some finishing work - I put the hatches in without a top coat so I could get a few months of summer in, those will be done this fall. Still need to do my LED courtesy lights, and need to install my raw-water washdown.
It's all good. Now when is the next raft-up so I can bring my boat?
:D
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Now when is the next raft-up so I can bring my boat?
:D
I posted a poll for the next get-together in the Chum forum. Pick your date.
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not to threadhijack but legos make great courtesy lights, check my tutorial on the resources page :wink:
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LilRichard,
I can't tell from the pics, when you secured your console to the deck/sole what did you use to anchor it in place?? I'm assuming you screwed it down in place and probably used 5200 -- did you place anything inbetween the console and deck/sole?? Starboard or something??
Did you predrill enlarged holes, fill with epoxy, then redrill??
Reason I ask, my 170 used to have 3/4" teak that was held in place with screws through the deck into the stringers and then the console was screwed in place into the the teak. My console is low, I'm thinking that I may want that 3/4 of an inch, but have yet to decide on something to use or just forget the idea and bolt it down. Starboard would be good since it will not deteriorate, but nothing adheres very well to it, even 5200, so I'm worried about water making its way into the deck/sole via the screw holes.
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LilRichard,
I can't tell from the pics, when you secured your console to the deck/sole what did you use to anchor it in place?? I'm assuming you screwed it down in place and probably used 5200 -- did you place anything inbetween the console and deck/sole?? Starboard or something??
Did you predrill enlarged holes, fill with epoxy, then redrill??
Reason I ask, my 170 used to have 3/4" teak that was held in place with screws through the deck into the stringers and then the console was screwed in place into the the teak. My console is low, I'm thinking that I may want that 3/4 of an inch, but have yet to decide on something to use or just forget the idea and bolt it down. Starboard would be good since it will not deteriorate, but nothing adheres very well to it, even 5200, so I'm worried about water making its way into the deck/sole via the screw holes.
I drilled, filled, then redrilled, yes. It is just the console on top of the floor with 4200 and SS screws. There was a slight overlap of the plates in my floor for the tower - so those overlapping areas got 1/4x20 bolts into the aluminum plates. It is very secure.
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Thanks for the info, I figured that's probably what you did. 4200 good choice. I'll probably skip the 3/4" spacer inbetween.
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On the flip side..... (and not to steal the thread), my 170 console was/is the ONLY place to hang on and having people on board in other than smooth conditions, we ended up ripping the glue & screws that held the console down, right out of the sole :shock: The whole console leaned forward at 25+ mph when we hit a wave :shock: :shock: After that I tried to prolong the inevitable (sp?) to no success - the sole had to come out.
Anyway, my answer to this was to glue/screw/glass a 5/8" peice of resin coated plywood, that matched just the bottom edge (inside and out) of the console - bevelled out at 45 degrees, to the sole, gelcoating it while I did the sole and now I have double thickness of sole to screw into. The bevel up to the top of the wood keeps any water out of the screwholes which I siliconed as I put the screws in anyway.
Super secure to this day and I did that 15 years ago.
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Rick,
See my thoughts/question on my 170 thread........
http://www.classicaquasport.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2579&start=60
LilRichard,
I don't want to take away from your thread with other questions about my 170. By the way I saw your skinny water picture, hope you didn't scratch the bottom!! She's a pretty boat!
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Rick,
See my thoughts/question on my 170 thread........
http://www.classicaquasport.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2579&start=60
LilRichard,
I don't want to take away from your thread with other questions about my 170. By the way I saw your skinny water picture, hope you didn't scratch the bottom!! She's a pretty boat!
Hey man, no worries - this thread is not just about my boat, it's about helping others see and learn... same thing I did from reading / questioning other folks' threads.
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who did your cover for your boat and If you dont mind me asking about how much did it cost for the top and the bottom?
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It came from Shumake's Custom Boat Tops in Tampa. He did a lot of other upholstery for me, can't remember the price for just the top. I was told he is the best in town, his work certainly is impressive.
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First of all, your boat turned out awesome. I was wondering how the kiwi grip on the floor if holding up. Is it easy to clean? I was thinking of using it in mine.
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First of all, your boat turned out awesome. I was wondering how the kiwi grip on the floor if holding up. Is it easy to clean? I was thinking of using it in mine.
Thanks!
The kiwi grip has held up very well, and I think it was an easy process. I would definitely recommend it. If you're ever in the Tpa area, I would be happy to show you the results.
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Lil Richard, Did you roll on the Kiwi Grip? Also did you have to order it or did you buy it locally. Looks Awesome. :thumleft: thanks, RC
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RC, I went to the main site and ordered it from there. And yes, I used their "loopy goopy" roller.
Thanks!
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How much kiwi grip did you have to use to do your boat?
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I used right at 1 gallon for everything.
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I was hoping you could elaborate on the spray rails. Did it provide a noticable difference?
I need to do something or my girl is going to kill me. This weekend she got hit over and over with splash after splash of 60 degree water. :oops:
I love the boat but the spray is out of controll.
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I have ridden in a few FBs, and in my opinion it makes a big difference - I would go for it. there are other options that are easier to install (but way more $$$) like the "Smartrail". Let me know what you decide.
R
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hey rich how'd those scupper holes out the side end up working out?
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Worked out great - boat has not sunk yet!
:D
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Rick,
Let's see some interior photos. Also I would like to see how the hatches turned out. Have you got to the raw water wash down yet?
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Sure, let me get some pics tomorrow while on the water and I will post up.
In the meantime, here are a few I had already:
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/usingtheboat/websize/DSC05048.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/usingtheboat/websize/DSC00103.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/fishing/websize/DSC05949.JPG)
(http://photos.imageevent.com/jodi/bradandbrycevisit/websize/P5160067.JPG)
As you can see, I still have one unfinished hatch up front - it will get done this winter.
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LilRichard,
Great job on your boat. Do you still have the center console you started to rebuild? I just started my 73 22.2 and would be interested in buying it from you if you still have it. I just read your thread again to get ideas and motivation. Your boat is top notch.
P.D.
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Thanks Pete. no, I sold the CC a while back. If you have any questions, let me know!
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I am having/did some of the rebuild myseld a 74 222, and was wondering exactly how much you though it drafted at rest. I am trying to make mine self bailing and was thinking 15inches would be a safe bet, but was not sure as I will have a 225 opti back there on a porta bracket.
Also what setback bracket did you use I am debating about which one I should buy.
Thanks Kyle
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Lilrichard/Anyone,
Where did you get your 3lb divinyfoam for your stringers? I am looking for a place to get the 3" sheets. Thanks in advance! BTW, absolutely beautiful rebuild, she looks amazing!
Chris
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Nutts: Closed Cell Foam came from FGCI in St Pete.
Kyle: Don't know the exact depth she sits at rest - never measured it. If the weather gets out of the 40s, I will toss her in the water soon and will tell you. But I can say that I raised my floor almost 2", and I can BARELY self bail with my drains on the sides of the cockpit... if they were in the rear they would be under water.
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dont start with the bottom, you dont want to redo work
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Welcome aboard aquasport :!: :!:
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I have to say...This is the rebuild that inspired my rebuild. I have looked over every post in this thread 10 times. I am curious how the boat is holding up? Any recent pictures?
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After I had all three boards fit together, I took them out and laid them up as a sandwich with a layer of 1.5oz mat, and a layer of 1808. I presoaked each sheet of wood with resin, then laid the glass up, than put the two parts together and weighted them with cinder blocks. This took a little over two gallons of resin for both pieces of the "sandwich".
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/432Core_Glassed.jpg)
Hi Rich,
Am starting the rebuild of my 170 and am going back with wood. The transom wood didn't look all that bad for being 41 yrs old. Probably would have lasted another 30.
Anyway, if I read the layup schedule for your transom correctly you laid a piece of the ply down, coated it in resin then layed a 1.5oz mat and rolled (brushed?) that in and then a layer of 1808, rolled that in (or brushed?) and then coated the bottom side of the next layer of wood with resin, layed that on top and repeated the schedule for the next layer? All wet on wet? How thick was the finished product? and how thick was the total transom after mounting it on the boat?
Would you have done anything different when doing your transom now that you're through? Would you have gone with a thinner floor - like 5/8?
I put 5/8" in when I replaced the floor 14 years ago and when I cut it out a couple weekends ago 95% looked like the day I put it in. For some reason the front 5" of my floor, where it met the casting deck, got water damage - not sure how, no penetrations or anything, just rotted away. Weird.
Where did you buy the plywood?
Did you use polyester resin everywhere?
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Richard,
Beautiful job on the rebuild - your boat looks great! How tall is the highest part of the tower? I mean, what is the clearance when you are trailering it? It doesn't look like it is hinged anywhere to lower the top section for overpasses, traffic lights etc.
Is there anything you would do differently if you had to do it over again?
Craig