Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => 270/281/286/ 290 XF/Osprey Owners Group => Topic started by: SaltH2OHokie on June 19, 2012, 09:09:23 PM
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Howdy,
The "how to attach pictures" has me slightly confused, but I've got a few pictures and I'm going to give it a shot in a minute.
In any case, the current state of my boat is starboard motor is new (4hrs), port motor has thrown a rod. A replacement port engine was ordered tonight. It floats.
I cleaned it up and now plan to 'tighten up' the head and associated fixtures, the fresh water system, the stereo and hopefully get the nagging things cleaned up like: sagging headliner, anchor pulpit that holds water, new name on transom, etc.
First question I have: can someone recommend a toilet/system that is simple and effective?
Currently installed is a head with a manual/12v pump that goes painfully slow. It does not appear to be plumbed with fresh water. It runs to a "y" valve that either goes through a 'lectra san' then overboard or into the holding tank.
I'd like to go to a y valve that either goes overboard or into the tank, and I'd like a macerator to pump out the tank offshore. I don't intend on keeping this in a marina or even using the head short of offshore (40+ mile) trips, so I really just the best replacement for pooping in a bucket and heaving it overboard...nothing more.
Thoughts?
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Howdy,
First question I have: can someone recommend a toilet/system that is simple and effective?
Thoughts?
This is how you do it Slick.
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=9015.0
First one's always free. :mrgreen:
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Dealt with plenty of marine sanitary systems. The best, simplest head? A manual pump Jabsco. No motor to crap out (HEE HEE!), all seals and parts replacable for minimal $, and you can feed it from a fresh water tank, but you definitely have to have a vented loop and a check valve in the feed. If you don't mind raw water feed, just use your existing pickup.
The Lectra-san? Get rid of it. Complicated chemical/electrical means of dealing with poop. All you need after the holding tank is a y-valve, one direction going to the dock-side pump-out fitting, the other to the macerator for overboard, when 12 miles out or so, depending on area...
But the manual flush heads work great...
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/2012-05-25_17-21-08_14.jpg)
Picture?
As for the head: Capt Bob...I see his works...but mine doesn't (at least not very well) :mrgreen:
The charter boat we fish on (54' custom carolina) has a head that sucks about as hard as the head on a 737. What's that? I like it.
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Probably a Vacu-Flush...
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Don't waste your time and money on a Jabsco pump based system. They are not very robust and the joker valves get stuck regularly. Additionally, they are difficult to rebuild, particularly while throwing up all over yourself in 8 foot seas in the head of a sailboat in the middle of the Florida Straits. A violent fart with some discharge (commonly referred to as a shart) can clog one of these chitters.
The Blake Lavac head, on the other hand, is a great dump sump. I'm not saying you can pump an old Converse Allstar and a yesterday's Wall Street Journal down it, but it has handled some pretty serious deuces that I have thrown at/in it like a champ. The best part is that it is very easy to rebuild and has very few parts in the Henderson diaphragm pump. The top half of the pump comes off with a few screws, and is dead simple to rebuild.
Peggy Hall has a good book on marine sanitation and controlling permeation/odors. I can't remember the name, but it was a good resource for figuring out the source of our hog pond smell.
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Never having owned a boat with a head, could someone run down what I should be looking for on the current one? It has a dry/(*something...flush, rinse...something implying water) valve/knob. It has a spot that would clearly take a handle to manually work it as well as a button that when held results in a slow, rhythmic pumping that has a very slow lowering of the water in the bowl as a result. The toilet has no source of fresh water short of some miraculously hidden plumbing.
I'm hesitant to put anything other than creek water in it to test it because it goes down so slow, but is that normal?
The marina where the boat was stored when I bought it said they had trouble pumping out the holding tank, so I'm assuming that it has someone else's poop in it, which doesn't make me very excited. It has no provision for pumping out while at sea (that I could find). The lectra san seems to have some sort of timer associated with it next to the button that makes the toilet pump.
I would almost prefer to just start completely fresh rather than fight with old, poopy stuff (minus the holding tank...probably keep that). That sound like a terrible idea?
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Eugene, c'mon, bud, the sole distributor in the USA is in Green Cove Springs? When you need seals and parts, you need them where you are located. Imagine if you have one of their heads...in Seattle!
One thing that has to be considered is immediate availability of parts and re-build kits. While no doubt the Blake system is excellent, and has a great following across the pond (English manufacturer), the parts availability in the states I would say is somewhat suspect...
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Good points. Single tennis shoe was an applicable analogy on rare occasion.
Best discussion yet regarding an odoriferous topic.
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Start in the wet flush position until the bowl is empty and switch to the dry pump position to clear the lines. With the vacuflush, hold the pedal up with your foot until the bowl is full and step on the pedal to flush. It should come back up automatically if operating properly.
Never having owned a boat with a head, could someone run down what I should be looking for on the current one? It has a dry/(*something...flush, rinse...something implying water) valve/knob. It has a spot that would clearly take a handle to manually work it as well as a button that when held results in a slow, rhythmic pumping that has a very slow lowering of the water in the bowl as a result. The toilet has no source of fresh water short of some miraculously hidden plumbing.
I'm hesitant to put anything other than creek water in it to test it because it goes down so slow, but is that normal?
The marina where the boat was stored when I bought it said they had trouble pumping out the holding tank, so I'm assuming that it has someone else's poop in it, which doesn't make me very excited. It has no provision for pumping out while at sea (that I could find). The lectra san seems to have some sort of timer associated with it next to the button that makes the toilet pump.
I would almost prefer to just start completely fresh rather than fight with old, poopy stuff (minus the holding tank...probably keep that). That sound like a terrible idea?
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Then comes the fun part with a Vacu-flush...
You get an air leak in the system...not a poo-poo leak, but an air leak. Vacuum pump can't hold vacuum, keeps cycling on and off. Big time PITA to isolate. God, sometimes I just want to chuck the whole system overboard!!!
The old KISS principle... :salut: :salut:
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I wasn't aware that there was only one distributor for parts in the US. I had a rebuild kit on our Pearson sailboat, but never needed it. That Baby Blake was a great little poop chute. The only problem in 4 years came from the hard deposits that would build up from the salt water. The one time I disassembled the thing, I simply rubbed off the hard deposits that were preventing a good seal on the discharge valve. A little Vaseline on the rubber valve and it worked like new. Carrying a rebuild kit onboard is a given on any boat with a head. Carrying a rebuild kit and 2 joker valve springs is a prerequisite for any Jabsco head with lots of females aboard.
Eugene, c'mon, bud, the sole distributor in the USA is in Green Cove Springs? When you need seals and parts, you need them where you are located. Imagine if you have one of their heads...in Seattle!
One thing that has to be considered is immediate availability of parts and re-build kits. While no doubt the Blake system is excellent, and has a great following across the pond (English manufacturer), the parts availability in the states I would say is somewhat suspect...
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http://www.blakes-lavac-taylors.co.uk/d ... rs.htm#USA (http://www.blakes-lavac-taylors.co.uk/distributors.htm#USA)
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Bob,
The more I think about it, any diaphragm pump would work if parts ever became and issue from Blake. Whale makes the same manual diaphragm pump that you could get at any Worst Marine. Even the Whale manual bilge pumps would probably work just fine. The pump is not specific to Blake, as they use a Henderson pump.
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Bob,
The more I think about it, any diaphragm pump would work if parts ever became and issue from Blake. Whale makes the same manual diaphragm pump that you could get at any Worst Marine. Even the Whale manual bilge pumps would probably work just fine. The pump is not specific to Blake, as they use a Henderson pump.
But Eugene, do you think the average boat owner would think like you and I do? Whale makes excellent chit, could never get their stuff into Proline due to my a$$hole boss, but none the less...
Not what the average boatowner wants to think about. They just want their chit to work... :wink:
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And when it doesn't, which is inevitable, they want to get it fixed readily...and with out a lot of $$ dropped "down the toilet", so to speak...
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Every boater thinks differently about heads once they have been elbow deep in a discharge hose punching compacted :*: and paper out the other side.
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The key is sanitation system maintenance, my friend, regardless of the make or set up...
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I don't intend on keeping this in a marina or even using the head short of offshore (40+ mile) trips, so I really just the best replacement for pooping in a bucket and heaving it overboard...nothing more.
Thoughts?
First off, Howdi to you too, Mr. Hokie. Anyone that says "Howdi" the first thing out of their pie-hole - I like 'em. :tongue:
Second of all, I can see you are of the same mindset as myself - a true minimalist, to wit:
"... pooping in a bucket and heaving it overboard...nothing more"
With that in mind, I say clear out all the plumbing, all the Johnson Flanges, Hoover Gaskets, and Flapper Valves.
Just put a nice flat spot for one of these contraptions below. It'll be as easy as the Town Whore and won't cost you much more than a gen-u-ine Buffalo Nickel.
http://www.seacoastservices.com/960-san ... 02-096506/ (http://www.seacoastservices.com/960-sanipottie-5-gallon-096502-096506/)
I have this in my little 215 Explorer, and it could not be more carefree, simple, and with like ...two? moving parts, very little to break.
And I really, really like your boat. I know you're gonna enjoy it !!! :sunny:
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Okay,
So I purchased:
A manual, regular size Jabsco.
A macerator.
A Y-Valve.
A vented loop in 1-1/2" and in 3/4".
I want to start fresh: get rid of the lectra san, give myself the option to either discharge the toilet overboard or into the tank and to either pump the tank out at dock or through the macerator.
Can I accomplish this? Is this wise? Can I accomplish this with what I purchased (minus hose and thru hulls...I've got to either reuse, or add thru hulls, but I can't really do much adding until I haul it for the motor.)
Thanks,
Ryan
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How far off is this?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/Head.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5173&title=head-diagram&cat=500)
Water in through a yet to be determined through-hull. I have a 3/4" check valve and a 3/4" vented loop. Are both/either of these necessary?
Poop out to a Y valve. One side goes straight to a through-hull. Other side goes to holding tank. Holding tank either has two ports or I Y into the current one going to deck pump out with another valve. From there "out" is either to the deck plate or to a macerator which is then Y'd back into the through-hull for poop water.
If that works, my questions are: Where are the vented loops necessary? Can I just Y or Y valve into the discharge thru-hull line or does it have to a separate thru-hull? Where should I wire the macerator from? 12V panel in the cabin to a switch or just a 12V switch off of one of the fuse bars that are in the electronics box and behind the console/helm?
EDIT: I just found this...which I think is what I was trying to draw...so in case this is clearer:
(http://www.boatus.com/boattech/assets/img/13_E.gif)
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Well, the big news is, my new motor should be here early next week, so the head project might have to wait until new power. We're going to limp her to the boat yard Sunday with the hopes that Saturday saw us finish the stereo and the head.
Any chance anyone knows where they put the thru-hull for flushing water for the head? I can't follow the hose much further aft than the motor (it's outboard of the motor), and surely they wouldn't have put a thru-hull on the outside of the motor (where it is nearly impossible to access the sea cock)?
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Hokie,
The second engine matches the first....what are you running?
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Hokie,
The second engine matches the first....what are you running?
310hp 350ci Indmars. The starboard motor had 4 hrs on it when I got it and the same yard that put it in is going to put in the one I purchased...so hopefully everything will be matched up nicely. FWC w/ Merc manifolds.
Also getting the fuel fill hoses replaced while they have it. One less thing to worry about.
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Do you know where your USCG capacity plate is located on your boat?
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No I haven't seen one, but I don't think it has one. Boats over a certain size aren't required to have one but sometimes still do. I think its 20' or less.
New motor just landed in Chesapeake. Hooray.
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On the slings replacing the motor (old out...new was going back in as I took the picture). Got transom lettered while it was at the boat yard.
Doc'd Up (my wife just graduated from med-school).
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/2012-06-26_17-28-19_152.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5277&title=new-name&cat=500)
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Ohhhhhhhhhhh.
We need many more pics.
Please. :mrgreen:
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Hopefully they say its ready to leave the yard tomorrow or Friday and I'll get some running pictures :)
This is where she sleeps...notice the lack of water at low tide...channel is about 3' at low, but if you didn't tie-up in the channel (I don't) you can't get to it. This is behind my best friend growing up's parents' house. Luckily his dad sold his (big) boat that used to occupy that slip, and now just has the Proline on the lift in the background, so I'm rent free in that slip for a little while until I get the boat sorted out.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/2012-06-21_18-28-02_507.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5278&title=her-berth&cat=500)
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Salt,
She's pretty damn clean looking outside. No big tower like many, helps (IMHO) with that look.
How about below?
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Yup - ditto on the comments - SWEET :cheers:
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I like the Sampson post!
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Thanks for the compliments.
As for the sampson post...my previous boat had one and this one has one, and yet I don't know if I'm fully/correctly utilizing it.
Boat won't be ready until Monday at the earliest :cry: Getting at the fuel fill hoses was apparently not a simple job.
Also, the prop shop seems to think it is capable of better speed than what most folks seems to report with the small blocks. Said his calc's put it at 34kt wide open and his experience (he has a lot) with similar boats puts it at a 30-32kt boat wide open. I've seen 24-28kts as wide open numbers...from folks on the interweb. Something isn't adding up. My last boat, this same shop netted me 12kts on the top end after a similar repower, so I actually have hope that he's onto something.
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We installed 350 Crusaders as a standard package at Stamas on the 32 Express I/B, she was good for low to mid 30s. Heavier and larger boat, so prop selection should get you around 35. The Crusaders are 320 PHP...
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Please pardon my angry vent/aside:
Admin Edit please see the site posting rules at the top of each forum.
Background: My previous boat was a single inboard and in 2007 I repowered with a B/E I 350ci 310hp chevy carb'd motor (my understanding is that I____ builds them for B/E who finishes them off/sells them.) I didn't really have any issues with that motor aside from things that I caused or could explain (bad gas, left the raw water seacock shut, carb needed a wedge, etc.)
Fast forward to this boat...twin inboard, standard rotation motor has just been replaced with the very same motor (I/B 310hp). I feel comfy with this and purchase the counter rotating counterpart from ebasicpower.com.
It arrives 1 day after payment cleared. Can't argue with that.
I ordered it "complete, turnkey", with the addition of Merc manifolds (for FWC the manifolds) and specified that it was for an inboard.
My mechanic gets the motor and right off the bat points out that is has a remote mount oil filter. I said "sweet...that'll help with oil changes". He said, "keep looking..." The damn thing was mounted right where the exhaust hose needed to go onto the manifold. He said no big deal, I'll just cut the mount and move it over.
The next day he calls and says, hey, "I bought a top mount starter for this thing since the bellhousing was setup for it" (and he explained that a top mount was correct for an inboard application 99% of the time), "and I put it on and the flywheel is setup for a bottom mount." He asked that I call ebasicpower and see what they had to say.
Their response: Was your old motor top or bottom mount starter? I said, I don't really know, but I'm 99% sure it was top mount. He responds to that, in a somewhat pissed off tone: "then put your old flywheel on your new motor".
I paid $8,300 for a "complete, turnkey" motor and not only does it not come with a starter, but when the bellhousing/flywheel are setup for 2 different starters and the motor is in the boat, the seller's suggestion is the yank the motor back out and put my 2,200 hour old flywheel on there. I saw red.
Few terse words and he says he'll call the manufacturer and get back to me, but he adds that since I called during lunch (it was 12:53pm) that I'd have to wait at least a half hour before he could get anyone. Manufacturer (Admin Edit) called and while apologetic, all they could say was: we should have sent a starter, we'll send one now. It also came next day, which was great...get a call today: starter is too big and the nose cone literally won't fit.
Called B/E back...response given: Sorry, there's not a reverse rotation, bottom mount starter that fits.
THEN WHY THE HECK WOULD YOU SEND ME ONE THAT DOESN'T?
The guy, who was very polite and apologetic essentially told me that had Indmar put a starter on the motor, either I___ or E/B would have ground down the nose cone themselves.
I don't see why it is even offered in a bottom mount starter setup that being the case.
Okay...I feel slightly better.
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Well...
Indeed, all the Mercruiser, PCM, and Crusader gas I/Bs I've messed with have been "top mount" starters. Not to say bottom mounts aren't out there, they just put the starter in bilge water...nice.
Flywheel should be the same, top or bottom, it's just the access port where the bendix engages the wheel that is different...bell housing?
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Well...
Indeed, all the Mercruiser, PCM, and Crusader gas I/Bs I've messed with have been "top mount" starters. Not to say bottom mounts aren't out there, they just put the starter in bilge water...nice.
Flywheel should be the same, top or bottom, it's just the access port where the bendix engages the wheel that is different...bell housing?
The bellhousing was an either/or...like you said it just had a cover plate and bolts one place or the other. Apparently the ring gear is either inside or outside or maybe inset...something like that...depending on the starter? I'm sorta playing a game of telephone, but both the mechanic and the manufacturer agreed the flywheel would only work with a bottom mount.
I'd never heard of such either. But beyond repowering a few boats, I've not had cause to hear of that.
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Ran yesterday on two engines, for the first time since I've owned her.
With whatever props I have, which the shop said if they were correctly stamped, then they were going to be plenty close enough to try, I saw 22kt at 3200rpm, 23-24 at 3600 and a 26kt top that was really kind of hard to gauge because the new motor was lagging, possibly slipping the tranny at higher RPM.
This sea trial occurred at 8pm the day before the 4th of July, and while the guys were plenty happy enough to get me ready before the 4th, I don't think they were interested in starting to diagnose a new problem at that hour.
I'm happy otherwise (can't afford to run much higher than 3600 anyhow :lol: )
Happy 4th!
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Congratulations :cheers:
Even with some stuff that needs to be corrected with the suppliers and the new found problem - you still have something to putt around with today and enjoy the day on the water.
Happy 4th!!
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Hey guys,
New to the board. At least haven't been on in forever. I as well have a 290 in which I just finished an identical re-power. Although your speed numbers are off from mine. In not such a good way for me. I'm seeing 18 at 3200 about 22 at 3600 and I top out at 30 but I'd love to get your 22 knot cruise at 3200. mind filling me in on the wheel your running? I'll post up some pics of my step by step re-power tommorrow. A nightmare to say the least. I removed the lectrasan as well. Installed exact system you showed and works flawlessly. Hope to hear more of your boat, hope you like it. I love mine
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Wheels are stamped 17x20 I believe. Haven't had them scanned to see what they really are. After adding 150 gallons of fuel and some seas, I was seeing 20kt at 3200 yesterday instead of 22. That 22kt was flat water, light fuel, 4 people onboard. I'm just enjoying running her on plane for now and not looking for anything else to fix (ie props) until my wife forgets the bill we just paid for the repower. :mrgreen:
Took her on her first ocean trip yesterday to troll for some Spanish Mack's and blues. First we "caught" a 96gal trashcan floating off of Cape Henry. Figured free trashcan, plenty of room...just as well rescue it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/2012-07-08_10-17-45_519.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5336&title=first-catch-of-the-day&cat=500)
Then I finally washed the skunk off with a little bluefish. (Also, the hat I'm wearing was fished from the ocean...)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/2012-07-08_13-50-23_569.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5337&title=washing-the-skunk-off&cat=500)
Here she is in the slip Saturday after a boat ride. I'm just tickled with this thing...first twin engine inboard and it's making me look like a pro at the fuel dock. I can even spin it into this slip given I hold my mouth right. My last boat was a single inboard that required some artful talent mixed with luck to coax into a slip or berth with any wind/current...so this is just awesome.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/2012-07-07_16-51-30_827.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5338&title=in-the-slip&cat=500)
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So, I've put over 600miles on her this summer and I'm not sure how many hours (I reckon I need to check).
Got a list for what I'm doing/checking when I haul her:
1 motor idles higher than the other. 1 tranny seems like it might be slipping.
She rides pretty dry, right up until she doesn't. We fished one day that we probably shouldn't have gone offshore and the ride home was done almost blind based on the water constantly thrown onto the curtains. Enough leaked through that the whole boat was wet and touching the throttles shocked you (NOT GOOD). Made it home after a terrible 3.5 hour ride and decided next time we see NE winds on the way out, we're headed in, even if we REAAAALLLLY want to fish.
I think I'm going to take the port side seat off and replace it with a cooler...if anyone has done that...how did you accommodate the cabin door opening? Seems a cooler would be mightly small to fit there and still let the door open.
I also am considering (cost dependent) losing the fighting chair and getting a fish box built that would span from where the current small fish box is to where the livewell ends.
I think I'm going to repaint the topsides some form of white. Opinions on what color the non-skid should be? Currently a gray...wouldn't mind doing something greenish since the hull is hunter green...but then what if I go with flag blue next year...
I've added 6 speakers and an amp. Sounds good, but killed the FM reception (antenna is too close to power wires to amp...working on that currently.)
Adding some spreader lights, perhaps some UW lights, ASAP. Night time operations have sucked without lights. Headlamps all around.
Lots of random leaks from the portlights, hatch, etc. when the going gets rough.
Overall I like the boat...on the other hand, the .7mpg that I'm averaging, that sucks the big one.
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I don't like the "touching the throttles shocked you" bit... :shock: :shock: :shock:
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Sweet ride!
You can get a nonskid mat or fitted deck chocks for a passenger side cooler. You can move it as need arises.
They make some really nice (and large) fishboxes these days. Yeti's, etc. The greatest thing is, two or three guys can set it on the dock, and clean fish...your not dragging blood all over the deck, then draining/cleaning the boat's fishbox.
http://store.yeticoolers.com/tie-down-kit/ (http://store.yeticoolers.com/tie-down-kit/)
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I don't like the "touching the throttles shocked you" bit... :shock: :shock: :shock:
Me neither. It hurt.
That day (terrible quartering sea hitting the starboard stern quarter) required more use of the throttle than I'd have liked. We took a neoprene huggy (koozie as my friends say) and a rag and made me a glove for my throttle hand.
Only happened that day (gallons upon gallons of salt water dumping on the dash/console/CAPTAIN). Checked all of the wires, followed the cables all the way to the motor...couldn't find anything that I thought would explain the controls shocking me, but to be sure it wasn't just me, I made sure it shocked one of my buddies, too :twisted:
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I don't like the "touching the throttles shocked you" bit... :shock: :shock: :shock:
Me neither. It hurt.
That day (terrible quartering sea hitting the starboard stern quarter) required more use of the throttle than I'd have liked. We took a neoprene huggy (koozie as my friends say) and a rag and made me a glove for my throttle hand.
Only happened that day (gallons upon gallons of salt water dumping on the dash/console/CAPTAIN). Checked all of the wires, followed the cables all the way to the motor...couldn't find anything that I thought would explain the controls shocking me, but to be sure it wasn't just me, I made sure it shocked one of my buddies, too :twisted:
Never heard of this. Bob, what do you reckon is the cause?
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I don't like the "touching the throttles shocked you" bit... :shock: :shock: :shock:
Me neither. It hurt.
Never heard of this. Bob, what do you reckon is the cause?
Were you running a generator? If so, it's likely a bad ground feeding back through the throttle cable. :shock: If you were not running a generator, the shock was likely from the ignition. :evil: Probably a spark plug wire touching or arcing over to the throttle cable.
Do an inspection of your coil and plug wires for cracks or wear. Make sure all ignition wires are well loomed and not in direct contact with other metal, especially the throttle/shift cables. A good way to find an arc is to simply run the engine(s) at night with no lights and you will be able to see any spark jump. Remember that you probably have low spark on one cylinder if you've got a wire arcing - that can lead quickly to a fouled plug - and one cylinder missing is not always easy to detect on a V-8. :x
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Few updates from past couple if months: no more offshore trips...0.7mpg left us all broke/in the doghouse with our significant others, etc.
Added:
2 rear facing scarab chris led spreader lights, 1 forward facing. I like them a lot. Probably could have done without the forward facing light as I'm really only up there at night to haul the anchor or secure a line...both of which I can do in the dark, but it certainly can't hurt to have more light.
Go-light stryker remote controlled spotlight. Also a fan of this...beats the heck out of a handheld light.
Fuse panel in my electronics box and fresh 6ga tinned wire feeding it.
Boatsafe bilge heater. Seems functional. Most obvious mounting point was also where I jump down to service the motors or hide from pirates, so I'm considering some form of semi-permanent mounting vs. super-duper-permanent.
Changed oil and t-stats on both motors. You know they are the same brand motor, 1 yr apart and have different oil pans, different intake manifolds, different heat exchanger mounting points, different t stat housings and one operates consistently 10deg cooler than the other.
Next up is a bus heater for the helm area...any recommendations?
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Hey, good to hear back from ya - know that feeling on gas consumption :roll:
So did you find out what was shocking you?
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No, and in the course of adding all of that stuff, I had that issue in mind. There are no electrical wires hitting control cables, no plug/coil wires anywhere on a control cable, etc...so while I don't ever feel good leaving something unexplained, for now I'm just going to have to hope it self-healed.
I also added 2 more boats to the fleet, a 17' custom built Harkers Island flat bottom skiff that is probably best suited as a yard ornament and an 18' Chincoteague Scow. Scow had a 30hp Johnson on the back until it came off in a turn at about 20mph. That was a terribly scary experience and made me further appreciate my inboards :thumright: From hence forward, all outboards on my boats will be through-bolted...right down to a 2.5hp...
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Ryan,
Most likely in regards to the "shocking" issue, you have a ground that is seeking a path back to the batt. Normally this would be one end of the wire to the other. But when that wire is interrupted, it will seek whatever means possible, even going through "positive" wires to achieve that path. The way that I know to fix it is to start taking equipment out of the electrical loop until the problem goes away. I'm betting there is a chafing problem whereas ground is making a SLIGHT contact with positive. Keep in mind your shift binnacle has neutral safety switches inside there, would be worth a look...
As far as a helm heater, I really like Boatsafe's 120VAC heater. Most heaters are diesel powered, but if you can stand to run the gennie while underway, they are sweet...http://www.theboatsafe.com/products/cabin-heaters/ (http://www.theboatsafe.com/products/cabin-heaters/)
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Only time I've been shocked was on the 70 mile ride home in stacked 3-5 seas and a stiff wind. If I never have to do that ride again it'll be too soon...so I hope its impossible to replicate :mrgreen:
As for heater...i was thinking of using the engine coolant/bus heater method because I don't have a gen set and am not a fan of any 12v heater I've used.
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Yeah, 12V heaters draw way too many amps and don't put out squat for heat. Sorry Ryan, didn't realize no gennie...
I'm kinda with you on the replication of the "shocking" issue, although, like you, I HATE when problems go away by themselves. Just means they MAY come back... :evil: