Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Trailers => Topic started by: bondobill on June 16, 2012, 10:36:24 PM
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Took day off from my sons project car to pull AS out of shop and fire up motors.
Front axle, brake L side froze up
(http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww317/bondobill/077.jpg)
(http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww317/bondobill/080.jpg)
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Took 2 beers to get the hub off :wink:
Trailers 2 years old.
Brakes electric over hydraulic
I flush brakes after every launch with salt away.....except for last time out.... :(
Should I ????
Replace brake shoes :(
Clean em up and run em..notice crack
Chit can the brakes and run with out em...I like this idea :cheers:
Bill
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I run my boat trailers with no brakes... but I have a heavy tow vehicle.. Those look like straight electric me judging by the puck. Drum brakes have no business on a boat trailer in my book. If you need brakes ditch the drums and convert it over to stainless steel discs.
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Wing
You are right
Electric.
A buddy has stainless disc brakes under his 25ft Parker,his brakes :pukel: in the first 2 years also
Bill
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I will never have drum brakes on a saltwater boat trailer again. Stainless discs are the only way to go and then they require very persistent anal (yes, that is ANAL, not annual) maintenance to get any life out of them.
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Best way to fix those brakes.... See the 4 bolts in the middle of the backing plate? Get rid of them, and have your good pair of dikes standing by to cut whatever else may be trying to keep them hanging on, proceed to your closest trash receptacle and toss all that chit in the can. :thumright:
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Must be in the air +/- 3200 miles away... Had the same wheel lock up on a new to me trailer but was able to get it free by backing up.. All was well till it hit the water after a three mile ride to the ramp. The steam was impressive :oops: and the Big Boss was not impressed.
Note: Dumba$$ here, failed to notice that all the brake lines had rusted and broken. Not one of my finer moments.
So a week later, it wasn't a two beer job getting the wheel off, it was a ride to Sears and new 6 point deep socket set and a new impact wrench (happy fathers day to me early)... BUT what saved the day was 3 cycles of heating and cooling with the torch and that was just for one lug nut so they all ended up getting cooked. So it was a two bottle (gas) job I 'spose :mrgreen:
It really was a bummer having the boat overboard with three days of rain and 20kts plus, an unknown mooring and no way to haul out.. All survived but I am still on the fence about putting brakes back on.
Bill you have have shifted my thoughts on break types. I have what you have on a horse trailer and they work great. My thought was to convert the boat trailer to them. I was concerned about the electrics, but now it seems more likely the drag magnet would freeze up to the drum cause the retract spring ain't much. Is that what got you bound up?
And happy Fathers Day to all that apply!!!!! :salut:
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Dave
I think it was the shoe to the drum that froze up. Just got the rear drum off on the same side.
same issue there, pulled the spindle nut this time so I could beat on the back of tire to get it to break loose, shoe busted on that one also.
Bill
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Interesting... So, if you put them back on would you opt for more slack between the pad and drum?
I had a busted spring that got someplace it shouldn't have gone and intermittantly jammed the shoe, can't blame it, data tag is gone off the trailer so I've no clue how old it is or the age of the brakes....
Wing and JJ I am listening, but we have to many hills up here and trailer brakes are easier than the ones on the F150...
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I hear you about the hills. If I were going to put brakes on a trailer it would be the best ALL stainless set that Kodiak offers. Then they still require serious desalting after every trip if you want any life out of them. I know several people that carry a pump up sprayer with Salt Away or some other acidic cleaner and flush their brakes when they launch the boat instead of letting it sit all day at the boat ramp with the salt having all day to do it's dirty work. It's a royal pain but it does work.
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I just replaced all the Tie Down disc brakes on a 3 year old triple axel trailer. Tie Down brakes are crap. I replaced them with Kodiac's SS calipers and Dacroment rotors w/SS backed pads. The price difference in the SS rotors and Dacroment is huge. The rotor is a wear part and can be changed easily when needed. The pads and caliper have a lifetime warranty.
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Best way to fix those brakes.... See the 4 bolts in the middle of the backing plate? Get rid of them, and have your good pair of dikes standing by to cut whatever else may be trying to keep them hanging on, proceed to your closest trash receptacle and toss all that chit in the can. :thumright:
(http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww317/bondobill/gtosusp090.jpg)
Thanks Marc :salut:
Thats all I needed to hear :lol:
2 down, 2 to go.
Bill
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Bill, Nice round file on those suckers!
Dburr, I have a super duty that is heavy enough and has big enough brakes to stop my boat with ease. Plus things are flatter here than in New England sot that helps... but we have all the darn snow birds down here in the winter clogging up the roads!
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Yeah and especially from your area to Naples, most of the snowbirds can't see past the hood ornament on their 1988 Buick and they will pull out in front of you in a heartbeat. :roll:
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I have Kodiaks and rinse them after every salt bath, carry a 30 gal water tank in the truck, the salt never has time to dry, 2 years since i upgraded and they still look and work like new.
Ditch the drums!!!
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Chit canned the whole maryanne !!
Going naked :D
Bill
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My original disc brakes lasted 7 years with changing pads a few times as the the only maintenance. They were Kodiaks and I repalced the with the same. Didn't go to SS since the others lasted quite well with constant salt water dunking. Mine get rinsed every time (in or out) they get wet since the ramp I use is only about 200 yards from my property.
One thing I did learn though is to only use NON-METALLIC pads (or shoes). The original ones locked up within a year and I assume that they were probably metallic pads. The pads rusted right to the discs and locked the wheels. I always use the non-metallic ones now and have not had a problem since.
By the way, before you trash your trailer brakes, you may want to check you state regs. Many states now require brakes on all trailers above 25 feet. Getting fined on the road is not the way to start or finish a trip to the water!