Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Center Console Professional (CCP) Rebuilds => 222 CCP Rebuilds => Topic started by: fishinonthebrain on June 14, 2012, 08:15:14 PM
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Just bought this 1987 CCP222 and started to go through it. Pulled the rub rail off starting to clean it up to see what i am in for. :lol:
I am planning on using this boat for fishing and diving and would like to put a armstong engine platform with a swim deck. What is the transome angle on this boat?
I will keep posting pictures as I go along.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/6-14-12_004.JPG)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/6-14-12_003.JPG)
Here is some more pictures taking hardware off and stripping boat down.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/6-14-12_007.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5323&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/6-14-12_014.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5321&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/6-14-12_005.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5320&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Here is the worn console. Have a lot of work to do to it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/6-14-12_006.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5322&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Removed console and have a huge mess of wires. Lol.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/7-6-12_005.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5304&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Started Stripping console out. The prevous owner must have cut the livewell out. What a shame!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/7-6-12_010.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5305&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/7-6-12_012.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5306&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Started to sand holes and get ready to re-glass and fill.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/7-6-12_013.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5307&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Just got in my new guages and switches for console. Motor shouls come in next week. :D
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/Guages_and_switches.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5442&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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I was able to get some to work on the boat this weekend. Here are some pictures.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/7-29-2012_008.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5462&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Rigging up motor to remove. I brought a small boom truck home made it easy work by myself.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/7-29-2012_010.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5463&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Got the motor removed had a lot of sand buildup behind the aluminum plate on the transom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/7-29-2012_013.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5464&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
after pressure washing all these holes popped up. Are these water blisters?
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Progress! :salut:
There is a guy here in the Tampa area that has been advertising a bracket for sale that he bought for his 222 CCP. He abandoned the project and got rid of the boat and now he is tring to sell the bracket and fuel tank.
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The splashwell is real soft so i reached into the hatch cover and felt around. The plywood is all separated. I am going to cut it out.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/7-29-2012_019.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5466&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Take a look right next to the white bilge hose. There is a square cut out of the top one of the stringer. Is That common? I didn't notice the cut out and washed the bilge area down real good with water and soaked the foam ontop of the stringer. :cry:
There is a hole on both stringers in the same place. I drilled a small hole in the base of the stringers on both sides and the foam didnt seems too wet. No water came out. Since I drenched the holes on top of the stringers i can't tell if I dampened the stringer or its was a little damp already. Crap!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/7-29-2012_022.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5468&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Here is the link to the guy I described above ^^^^
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/boa/3111672524.html (http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/boa/3111672524.html)
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Thanks I was just going to pull my tank and see how it looked.
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You are in rarified air, rebuilding a CCP. Looking forward to seeing the stringer and transom condition. Keep up the good work :thumright: thanks for the pics.
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The livewell loss is actually not a loss. The owners aren't happy with them, for many reasons.
Add an above-deck oval well later :thumright:
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Both access boxes in the transom and floor plates have a lot of rotten plywood in them. I planned to close in transom so i will cut a lot of that out any way.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/7-29-2012_017.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5467&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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The livewell loss is actually not a loss. The owners aren't happy with them, for many reasons.
Add an above-deck oval well later :thumright:
I was maybe going to make some dry storage area out of it.
I ran accross a picture of a guys boat he rebuilt and he got a oval livewell built in to his transom. Maybe from hammerhead. I am real interested in doing that.
Any suggestions.
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If you are going to stay with an open transom....keep the water weight forward. Under the leaning post is ideal.
Closed transom, bracketed engine....different boat, nice touch.
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If you are going to stay with an open transom....keep the water weight forward. Under the leaning post is ideal.
Closed transom, bracketed engine....different boat, nice touch.
Closed transom, live well in center of transom, access door to one side to access swim platform/engine bracket from armstrong.
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There ya go...good deal :thumright:
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Did some fiberglass work on console weekend before last since it was raining. Wanted to work on transom but it has been raining and wanted to do something.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/medium/8-26-12_025.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5710&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Patched some holes with 1.5 CM.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/medium/8-26-12_026.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5711&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Sanded down CM and mixed up some West System epoxy and some 407 filler.
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Last week started to cut out transom sides getting ready to tackle transom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/medium/8-26-12_016.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5719&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/medium/8-26-12_017.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5724&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Started slicing up transom. Took everything that worm drive saw had to cut through the plywood. It's a pretty solid transom. Hate to cut it out but I want raise it, close it in, and build in a baitwell.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/medium/8-26-12_029.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5726&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Good work.
The blisters behind the stainless transom plate were caused by held water. No biggee...gonna be new.
The plywood in the cap looks good :thumright:
How is the floor?
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Winds are starting to pick up here in Baton Rouge as Isaac is starting to hit land below New Orleans. Got the generator ready and plenty of food. :lol:
I hope to work on boat tomorrow since it should be cool ans windy. :cheers:
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Good work.
The blisters behind the stainless transom plate were caused by held water. No biggee...gonna be new.
The plywood in the cap looks good :thumright:
How is the floor?
The floor of the splash well was rotten but from then on seems good. I dont plan on replacing any additional floor just replacing transom, boxing it in, adding a live well and a tuna door.
It's been raining a lot the last few weeks and them Isaac came so I have been working on the console. I will post some pictures tomorrow.
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i have the same hull. what r u planning on doin with the transome. and are you replacing the floor?
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I plan to close in transom, put a tuna door in, and build in a livewell.
The transom seemed solid before I started but did find some wet spots and a rotten area. i found the rotten areas at the end of cutting out the plywood which i was gratefull for because it was really tough going. After tearing the transome out I give a lot of credit to those who have done this before.
I dont plan to tackle the floor right now since it seems solid.
I have a 6 year old son asking me on the hour when I am working on the boat "are you finished yet" and " the boat is going to look real cool right". :lol:
I will post some pictures this week of my progress.
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I have what is probably the original pickup and shut off for a live well for my boat. I plan to install a inline pump to feed a new live well but was wondering if there has been any issues with this original setup to loose prime or not work very well. Should i use this set up or would another set up work better? Since I am rebuilding this area it would be time to change this out if needed. See pictures below of set up.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/9-12-12_010.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5795&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/9-12-12_012.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5796&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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I plan to close in transom, put a tuna door in, and build in a livewell.
The transom seemed solid before I started but did find some wet spots and a rotten area. i found the rotten areas at the end of cutting out the plywood which i was gratefull for because it was really tough going. After tearing the transome out I give a lot of credit to those who have done this before.
I dont plan to tackle the floor right now since it seems solid.
I have a 6 year old son asking me on the hour when I am working on the boat "are you finished yet" and " the boat is going to look real cool right". :lol:
I will post some pictures this week of my progress.
I also am plan on putting in a closed transom. I wasn't so lucky with the floor thought. When I bought the boat I was just going to pull the tank and throw in a poly tank. Once i started pulling the screws out i found that ever screw was wet. Then I found a soft spot right next to the console. Looked like someone had cut a larger hole where all the wires and controls came through which caused water to get into the wood. So I plan on just pulling the entire deck up and all the foam and starting from scratch. Have you found anything on separating the insert, floor and gunnels, from the hull? I have been thinking about it for awhile and I just don't want to do a half ass job on it. I would like it to be as good if not better then it was coming out of Aquasport.
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Fish,
Swap out that strainer for a forced water clamshell pickup. Perko makes a nice one, bronze, 3/4 inch.
Will fit the same hole.
Jdupree has your boat, he switched out, priming issue solved.
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Fish,
Swap out that strainer for a forced water clamshell pickup. Perko makes a nice one, bronze, 3/4 inch.
Will fit the same hole.
Jdupree has your boat, he switched out, priming issue solved.
great thanks.
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Finally got the transom stripped of the two layers of 3/4" playwood. That was a job alot more work than I thought it would be. The plywood was solid a little damp in areas but solid.here is some pictures.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/9-15-12_005.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5805&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/9-15-12_006.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5806&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/9-15-12_007.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5807&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/9-15-12_008.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5808&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Nice job :salut:
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I plan to close in transom, put a tuna door in, and build in a livewell.
The transom seemed solid before I started but did find some wet spots and a rotten area. i found the rotten areas at the end of cutting out the plywood which i was gratefull for because it was really tough going. After tearing the transome out I give a lot of credit to those who have done this before.
I dont plan to tackle the floor right now since it seems solid.
I have a 6 year old son asking me on the hour when I am working on the boat "are you finished yet" and " the boat is going to look real cool right". :lol:
I will post some pictures this week of my progress.
I also am plan on putting in a closed transom. I wasn't so lucky with the floor thought. When I bought the boat I was just going to pull the tank and throw in a poly tank. Once i started pulling the screws out i found that ever screw was wet. Then I found a soft spot right next to the console. Looked like someone had cut a larger hole where all the wires and controls came through which caused water to get into the wood. So I plan on just pulling the entire deck up and all the foam and starting from scratch. Have you found anything on separating the insert, floor and gunnels, from the hull? I have been thinking about it for awhile and I just don't want to do a half a$$ job on it. I would like it to be as good if not better then it was coming out of Aquasport.
I have not had to deal with separting the insert from the gunnel cap and transom.
If you need to replace the floor I have seen guys cut out the floor around where it meets the inside walls. But make sure you leave an inch or so of the existing floor all the way around to have somewhere to attach the new floor too. If you do a search on this forum you will see what I am talking about.
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Fish,
Swap out that strainer for a forced water clamshell pickup. Perko makes a nice one, bronze, 3/4 inch.
Will fit the same hole.
Jdupree has your boat, he switched out, priming issue solved.
I did a search of the clam shell your talking about and found that you can buy it separate from the thru hull fitting. Can I use my thru hull fitting, shutoff and just buy the clamshell? The clam shell is just screwed onto the hull where the thru hull fitting is coming through the hull.
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Fish,
Swap out that strainer for a forced water clamshell pickup. Perko makes a nice one, bronze, 3/4 inch.
Will fit the same hole.
Jdupree has your boat, he switched out, priming issue solved.
I did a search of the clam shell your talking about and found that you can buy it separate from the thru hull fitting. Can I use my thru hull fitting, shutoff and just buy the clamshell? The clam shell is just screwed onto the hull where the thru hull fitting is coming through the hull.
Exactly. Buy the bronze clam shell only, you're good to go :thumright:
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Made a templet out of 1/4" plywood so I could accurately cut the new coosa board for the transom. After cutting and fitting the plywood strips I then hot glue gunned the strips together to make the templet you see here.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/9-23-12_010.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5842&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Placed the templet on new 3/4" coosa board. Will cut two sheets out to make an 1 1/2" transom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/9-23-12_008.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5843&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Epoxied the two sheets together clamped and weighted down sheets with whatever I had around.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/9-23-12_009.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5844&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Applied thickened epoxy with a notched trowl normally used for thinset in tile floors. Applied a liberal amount and then ran screws though outside skin into coosa board. When I ran screws in i did every other one to make sure epoxy came out of the other predrilled holes.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/9-23-12_013.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5846&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/9-23-12_012.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5845&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
It looks like some missing screws buy they were not long enough to go all the way through both pieces of coosa.
Outside shot of transom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/9-23-12_011.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5847&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Nice job :thumright: What $ do you have in the two sheets of Coosa?
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Nice job :thumright: What $ do you have in the two sheets of Coosa?
$195.00 a sheet. For all the work it was to cut the old wood out I do not want to ever do it again. A little investment and I won't. :cheers:
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Cutting some 1708 with the templet I used to cut the coosa board for the transom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-6-12_001.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5927&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Laid two pieces of 10" 1708 where the transom meets the hull then 4 layers of 1708 accross the whole transom overlapping the sides of the hull. I also patched up the holes from a temp sensor and the old livewell feed. I will relocate the intake for the new livewell a little farther up the hull for easier access.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-6-12_003.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5929&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-6-12_002.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5928&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Started on making a mold for a livewell out of some thin 1/4" material I found at a hardware store. To keep the oval shape I made a wood structure inside so I could screw where the two edges came together.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-4-12_029.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5930&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-4-12_030.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5931&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Sweet, nice work!
What height/capacity are you figuring on the livewell?
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That’s will make a good mould. But take the time to put five or six coats of past wax on it before using. :thumleft:
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That transom should be there a long while :thumleft: ..looks like you have a good plan for what you want it to turn out like. I like the oval live well, will it be under the transom cap and built as part of the whole back or will it be "free standing" or behind your seat?
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Sweet, nice work!
What height/capacity are you figuring on the livewell?
I dont know how much it will hold probably 30-40 gals. It's 30" tall x 18" deep, and 27" wide. i know someone here would know the equation for the capacity. :lol:
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That transom should be there a long while :thumleft: ..looks like you have a good plan for what you want it to turn out like. I like the oval live well, will it be under the transom cap and built as part of the whole back or will it be "free standing" or behind your seat?
I plan to build it in under the cap I love that look.
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Sweet, nice work!
What height/capacity are you figuring on the livewell?
I dont know how much it will hold probably 30-40 gals. It's 30" tall x 18" deep, and 27" wide. i know someone here would know the equation for the capacity. :lol:
49+ gals based on your measurements.
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Fish,
Don't go too big. You will add a lot of weight off the back with the bracket and engine. You can always trim some off the top. Just my .02!
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^^^^^^^
What Alex said.
Think about trimming it down. That is a lot of weight up top in a seaway.
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When I was making the mold I had a 30 gal plastic drum near by for a guage of the size. So i am trully closer to 50 gal? I by now way wanted it that big because of the weight.
The 30 gal drum is 30" tall by 18" round.
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Sweet, nice work!
What height/capacity are you figuring on the livewell?
I dont know how much it will hold probably 30-40 gals. It's 30" tall x 18" deep, and 27" wide. i know someone here would know the equation for the capacity. :lol:
49+ gals based on your measurements.
Based on a calculator I found online it showed a 54 Gal capacity. Way more than I wanted. Thanks Capt. Bob.
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If I cut it down to 22" I will be just shy of 40 gal. or 340 lbs that should be ok for this boat right? I will have a sealed motor bracket and swimplatform to add some buoyancy to the back of the boat.
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Depends on how much bait you plan to use.
A 17 gal. was enough for the amount of bait I used and fit my full bracket on the CCP perfect.
Then again I don't use a lot of live bait.
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If I cut it down to 22" I will be just shy of 40 gal. or 340 lbs that should be ok for this boat right? I will have a sealed motor bracket and swimplatform to add some buoyancy to the back of the boat.
Fish, depends upon where you mount it. Presume it is going directly behind the console like most.
Before you cut it, go online and look at the height dimensions for the Dorado-style livewells (Tampa style). You can always adjust the seating height by the thickness of the seat cushion on top.
The weight shouldn't be a concern if it is mounted behind the console. If you use an internal standpipe as a drain....(keeps the outlet hose off the deck) you can adjust the water capacity based upon the height of the standpipe.
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When I was making the mold I had a 30 gal plastic drum near by for a guage of the size. So i am trully closer to 50 gal? I by now way wanted it that big because of the weight.
The 30 gal drum is 30" tall by 18" round.
From your dimensions, the above is a cylinder and calcs. closer to 33 gals (room for fluid expansion).
What you built is an oval shape (based on pics and dimensions).
Two different geometric shapes, thus two different volumes.
Like Gran says, don't fill it all the way up. Set your drain accordingly.
You can always put 20 gals in a 50 gal tank. :mrgreen:
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I plan to make a fiberglass engine bracket with a swim platform. Is there a set setback from the transom that's needed for the engine to tilt back without hitting transom. I have a 225 optimax.
Also is there a standard with a certain setback on how much the engine bracket can be raised and the prop not cavitate?
here is a link to a guy who is rebuilding his boat and making his own engine bracket. Enjoy.
http://s728.photobucket.com/albums/ww29 ... =slideshow (http://s728.photobucket.com/albums/ww290/88bowtie/?albumview=slideshow)
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Man that was a long slideshow - pc went to sleep 3 times through it. That rebuild was something though. The owner is quite skilled.
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I plan to make a fiberglass engine bracket with a swim platform. Is there a set setback from the transom that's needed for the engine to tilt back without hitting transom. I have a 225 optimax.
Also is there a standard with a certain setback on how much the engine bracket can be raised and the prop not cavitate?
here is a link to a guy who is rebuilding his boat and making his own engine bracket. Enjoy.
http://s728.photobucket.com/albums/ww29 ... =slideshow (http://s728.photobucket.com/albums/ww290/88bowtie/?albumview=slideshow)
mercury recommends for every 12 inches of setback, you can raise the motor 1 inch, but i personally would lean towards 6 inches back 1 inch up, but running a good prop will keep it from cavitating/ventilating
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I like the fiberglass bracket, but would like to here from him on the build. The swim platform has to be structural because he has no internal support. So the attachment of the platform to the box is critical. He certainly has confidence in his design and build. I’m less confident. I would have to see the numbers. Does any one here, know him? Is he on the Seacraft board? With that said, I wouldn’t mind building one myself. I bet if anyone here knows him. It would be seabob. Fishinonthebrain when you build yours. Please do it in detail. I would love to follow your build. :thumleft:
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I like the fiberglass bracket, but would like to here from him on the build. The swim platform has to be structural because he has no internal support. So the attachment of the platform to the box is critical. He certainly has confidence in his design and build. I’m less confident. I would have to see the numbers. Does any one here, know him? Is he on the Seacraft board? With that said, I wouldn’t mind building one myself. I bet if anyone here knows him. It would be seabob. Fishinonthebrain when you build yours. Please do it in detail. I would love to follow your build. :thumleft:
He does mension about glassing in a center support down the center of the engine bracket but does not show it done. I would expect once all the coosa and center support is installed the inside would be once again glassed in. Hopefully seabob or someone else could shed some light on these good questions.
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A center knee brace is what I would like to see. Also his total; thickness at the motor mount and more importantly, the thickness at the mounting to the transom. 1.5 inches Coosa at the motor and if the glass, inside and out is .25. That would be 2 inches for the motor to mount to. That’s good, but he states .75 every place else. Unless I missed something. .75 and lets say .25 thick glass in and out. Isn’t enough. At leasted I don’t think so. All so inside corner radius, is important. The larger the radius. The better the strength and less chance of creaking. Also where the platform meets the tub. The larger the radius the better. Those would be questions I would have. you asked about the set back. His is close. most maufs. use 28 to 30 inch set backs for six cyclinder motors. Just my thoughts. :thumleft:
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A center knee brace is what I would like to see. Also his total; thickness at the motor mount and more importantly, the thickness at the mounting to the transom. 1.5 inches Coosa at the motor and if the glass, inside and out is .25. That would be 2 inches for the motor to mount to. That’s good, but he states .75 every place else. Unless I missed something. .75 and lets say .25 thick glass in and out. Isn’t enough. At leasted I don’t think so. All so inside corner radius, is important. The larger the radius. The better the strength and less chance of creaking. Also where the platform meets the tub. The larger the radius the better. Those would be questions I would have. you asked about the set back. His is close. most maufs. use 28 to 30 inch set backs for six cyclinder motors. Just my thoughts. :thumleft:
I would agree his radius seem a little small and I am thinking of wrapping the whole inside of the motor mount with coosa and then fiberglass. On the setback I was thinking 30" I dont think my motor has the limit switch adjustments on the tilt up of the motor.
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Here’s another one you may want to look at. He has some good ideas. I normal y don’t like to refer to another site, specially, one I was thrown off of. Bwahahahaha
http://www.classicseacraft.com/communit ... om+bracket (http://www.classicseacraft.com/community/showthread.php?t=14261&highlight=building+fiberglass+transom+bracket)
I also don’t know if you can get their with what I’m showing, but I’m sure, one of the other guys here, will be able to fix my screw ups. :thumright:
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Here’s another one you may want to look at. He has some good ideas. I normal y don’t like to refer to another site, specially, one I was thrown off of. Bwahahahaha
http://www.classicseacraft.com/communit ... om+bracket (http://www.classicseacraft.com/community/showthread.php?t=14261&highlight=building+fiberglass+transom+bracket)
I also don’t know if you can get their with what I’m showing, but I’m sure, one of the other guys here, will be able to fix my screw ups. :thumright:
He definitly has some good ideas i can incorporate into my project Thanks for the link :thumright: .
I am definitely staying away from plywood with anything I am building or rebuilding on this boat though.
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You may want to check out this site as well. Go to the bottom of the page. Look at their fiberglass core matl. Mite be worth looking into.
http://fiberglassenginebrackets.com (http://fiberglassenginebrackets.com)
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If you are interested in who the person is who ‘s slide show you found. His board name on classic seacraft is kneedeep. He lives in the Florida pan handle. I’ve tried to find away of contacting him, but since I’m not a member of that site ( I think I‘m still not well come over there). I can’t find out any more then I did. If you find away to contact him, I would be interested getting info help from him as well. Maybe some one could get him to join us here. :thumleft:
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If you are interested in who the person is who ‘s slide show you found. His board name on classic seacraft is kneedeep. He lives in the Florida pan handle. I’ve tried to find away of contacting him, but since I’m not a member of that site ( I think I‘m still not well come over there). I can’t find out any more then I did. If you find away to contact him, I would be interested getting info help from him as well. Maybe some one could get him to join us here. :thumleft:
Thanks saltfly i will go over and join and try to contact him. I will also mention I have a rebuild on this site and maybe that will spark his intrest to come check our site out. Thanks for the heads up I am getting real close to getting started on that engine/ swim platform all the materials are starting to come in.
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Not that I've gone through the slide show or anything, but since I was summoned (sort of), you guys wouldn't happen to be talking about Hermco, would you?
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I have a 30" setbak on my bracket and can tilt the motor all the way up no problem.
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Bob I don’t know if it is Hermco or not. I’ve been on his site to see his work. But I thought his board name on CSC was different. I could only find , the guys board name who made the slide show. But if it is. I would love to ask him some question. I’m getting really serious about building one my self. It maybe the only way I’m going to finish this boat by next spring.
ops just found out kneedeep isn't hermco. Oh well. But Bob if you know hermco. Just wondering out loud. :thumright:
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Not that I've gone through the slide show or anything, but since I was summoned (sort of), you guys wouldn't happen to be talking about Hermco, would you?
I don't think it's Hermco because he has chimed in on other threads and he goes by Hermco. There is another guy from california that goes by "Strick" and has built several of the same style engine bracket with the same design. I will try to contact him too to see how his are holding up.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/communit ... NE+BRACKET (http://www.classicseacraft.com/community/showthread.php?t=14261&highlight=FIBERGLASS+ENGINE+BRACKET)
saltfly mentioned this thread already.
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Not that I've gone through the slide show or anything, but since I was summoned (sort of), you guys wouldn't happen to be talking about Hermco, would you?
I don't think it's Hermco because he has chimed in on other threads and he goes by Hermco. There is another guy from california that goes by "Strick" and has built several of the same style engine bracket with the same design. I will try to contact him too to see how his are holding up.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/communit ... NE+BRACKET (http://www.classicseacraft.com/community/showthread.php?t=14261&highlight=FIBERGLASS+ENGINE+BRACKET)
saltfly mentioned this thread already.
Here is a link to all Strick's pictures. http://www.casdvm.com/photos/swimplatform2/index.htm (http://www.casdvm.com/photos/swimplatform2/index.htm)
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I started a thread over in Classic Seacraft inquiring about design of fiberglass engine bracket/ swim plarform and will let you guys know what I find out. If anybody wants to follow thread over there Here is the link.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/communit ... hp?t=24655 (http://www.classicseacraft.com/community/showthread.php?t=24655)
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Finished fairing mold for livewell and applying 5 coats of carnuba wax.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-19-12_010.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6024&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Applyed 4 layers of 1708 with laminating polyester resin.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-19-12_015.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6025&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Pulled mold from table and started to get mold out of fiberglass livewell.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-19-12_016.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6026&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Picture of fiberglass livewell ready to clean up, trim edges, and gelcoat.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-19-12_018.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6027&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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How hard was it to get off the mold or the mold out of it?
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How hard was it to get off the mold or the mold out of it?
It took about an hour. The mold needed to be cut up in multiple pieces to come out. It wasn't to bad for my first time but will do mold making a little different next time.
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Started back up on closing in the transom with making a mold for the curved top cap. I made the cap mold out of 1/4" plywood bent and screwed to the underside of the gunnel cap.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-19-12_006.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6028&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Screwed a piece of 1/2" plywood and 1/2"x 1" board to the center of cap to flatten it out to recieve livewell from underneath.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-19-12_007.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6029&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
View from the rear showing how I build up plywood layers underneath gunnel cap to hold 1/4" plywood and have enough offset for Nidacore and 1708.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-19-12_008.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6030&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Cut a piece of 3/4" Nidacore and fit it ontop of 1/4" playwood. Next will be 4 layers of 1708 which is curing while I am uploading these pictures. I will show pictures of glassed in transom cap in the morning.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-19-12_009.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6031&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Here is a 3D drawing of the bracket/ swim platformi am working on.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-20-12_003.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6032&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-20-12_002.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6033&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-20-12_004.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6034&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Yessir....great work :thumright:
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What drawing program are you using? I was thinking of getting one to use myself. You know that is crazy for me to say that. Since I spent to may years using a drawing board and then a computer, to do my designs on. I told the guys at work. I never wanted to see another design program again. :oops:
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Great rendering! Would you consider making the bracket wider to get more interior volume of to help provide floatation? I saw what the Seacraft guy did and wondered why on a custom build you don't go as wide as possible to help offset the weights/moments of moving the engine close to 30 inches aft.
Really cool! Now, if we could convince you that you need the practice drawing so how 'bout trying for a stern shape of the Osprey :wink: :mrgreen: :salut:
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Going wider doesn’t necessarily add more flotation. And it does add weight. And the weight you add may offset the little bit of flotation you may get. You also have to consider if trim tabs are on your boat or you may want to add them later. Also if you look at later pic’s of both brackets from the CSC site on the boats and in the water. The smaller one actually sit the swim platform higher, which I personally liked better. But each person has to decide for them self's which they like and how they want it to sit.
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What drawing program are you using? I was thinking of getting one to use myself. You know that is crazy for me to say that. Since I spent to may years using a drawing board and then a computer, to do my designs on. I told the guys at work. I never wanted to see another design program again. :oops:
The software is Graitec and it is integrated with audocad and is designed for structural steel. All I did with this drawing is draw everything in steel plate which would be no different than plywood, coosa, or nidacore for the layout or design of the project.
I hate when new software comes out too because there can be such a learning curve but usually the new stuff is a time saver once you learn how to use it. :thumright:
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Great rendering! Would you consider making the bracket wider to get more interior volume of to help provide floatation? I saw what the Seacraft guy did and wondered why on a custom build you don't go as wide as possible to help offset the weights/moments of moving the engine close to 30 inches aft.
Really cool! Now, if we could convince you that you need the practice drawing so how 'bout trying for a stern shape of the Osprey :wink: :mrgreen: :salut:
I didn't want to stray to far from their design since their design is proven. :(
This design was relativly easy but when you talk about anthing curved meeting a compounded angle talk about complicated.
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Laid out all the panels out of 3/4" Coosa.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-21-12_001.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6035&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
The software used will make drawings of each panel with dimensions. Makes it easy to for layout.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-21-12_002.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6036&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Screwed all the panels together might change the back panel the engine hangs on it looks a little bulky.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-21-12_004.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6037&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Back side where engine will hang off.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-21-12_005.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6038&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Very nice!
Question, and please don't take this the wrong way....structural engineering, torque, stress, HP rating etc....
Manufacturers like Armstrong and Gil have to meet codes and standards, ratings, liability issues, etc.
Asking only in terms of assistance and another train of thought....your work is superb :thumright:
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Very nice!
Question, and please don't take this the wrong way....structural engineering, torque, stress, HP rating etc....
Manufacturers like Armstrong and Gil have to meet codes and standards, ratings, liability issues, etc.
Asking only in terms of assistance and another train of thought....your work is superb :thumright:
Thanks it's good to bring up the fun stuff. Keeps people thinking and would not take it wrong. :)
I am building this for myself and don't plan to sell these to anybody so the liability will only be with my use. Good point by the way that's why I am over engineered it and made a complete box out of coosa instead of inserts like they have. Cost is definitly secondary because I don't care to look in the rearview mirror to see a 225 optimax bouncing down the interstate or lose the motor miles out to sea.
Over at classic craft the guys who have made a few of these didn't claim to have any real problems with their designs so I am not to worried with the beefier version i came up with.
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I assume because you used Coosa. Your not making a mould. Are you going use what you are building and glass over it ?
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I assume because you used Coosa. Your not making a mould. Are you going use what you are building and glass over it ?
I was thinking of 6 layers of 1708 and 2 layers of 1.5 CS outside and maybe 4 layers of 1708 inside. It was recomended to me to use polyester resin instead of epoxy due to cost and the extra strength was not really needed. I still have not decided on that issue yet. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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I assume because you used Coosa. Your not making a mould. Are you going use what you are building and glass over it ?
From the designs I have seen they have used coosa or samwiched plywood on the front, back, and sides why not just do the bottom too and make a complete box.
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There is nothing wrong with polyester resin. In fact I’m going to build one at some point. I’m going to use vinylester. I will also tell you what a friend who is a fiberglass guy told me, to use one layer of 1708, which is made at 45 degrees. Then lay the next layer opposite of the first. Which gives you a ‘v’ look to your lay up. Then put a 3rd layer of 1808, which is 90 degree over that. You will get the strongest lay up possible that way. After I ran some numbers, he is right. I’m looking forward to seeing your work as you progress. Al so I like you aproach.
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Oughta be fun to fair! Whats the stringer plan? Looks good.
Good point about the layup too Salt
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There is nothing wrong with polyester resin. In fact I’m going to build one at some point. I’m going to use vinylester. I will also tell you what a friend who is a fiberglass guy told me, to use one layer of 1708, which is made at 45 degrees. Then lay the next layer opposite of the first. Which gives you a ‘v’ look to your lay up. Then put a 3rd layer of 1808, which is 90 degree over that. You will get the strongest lay up possible that way. After I ran some numbers, he is right. I’m looking forward to seeing your work as you progress. Al so I like you aproach.
Good point i will definitly alternate the layers like you suggested. I will read up on the vinyester too. I wish I knew about vinylester is looks to be as strong as epoxy at a fraction of the cost.
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Oughta be fun to fair! Whats the stringer plan? Looks good.
Good point about the layup too Salt
Staight line air sander. :thumright:
Stringer of Coosa down the middle from top to bottom. I want the stringer to be glued to the bottom on top swim platform.
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I-beam effect :thumleft:
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I’m using vinylester because that is what Tom my glass friend uses. He is also going to order all my matls. For me. He said he never uses epoxy. The cost is just to high for his costumers and vinylester is more then strong enough. Most of the boats he works on are off shore boats and none have had problem with his repairs.
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I’m using vinylester because that is what Tom my glass friend uses. He is also going to order all my matls. For me. He said he never uses epoxy. The cost is just to high for his costumers and vinylester is more then strong enough. Most of the boats he works on are off shore boats and none have had problem with his repairs.
Epoxy can be tougher to work too. If a poor kick, stays soft. Hard to fair.
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Gran that a good point. If to much hardener is used, epoxy doesn’t cure hard. It will stay soft. Just the opposite of what you expect.
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Hey fish, I just bought a used fiberglass bracket. I’ll have to modify it, to make it work. Its what they called a wet bracket. Its open to the water, which I don’t think is legal to sell now a days. They use to catch water and could pull some transoms under when backing down. So I need to close it up. I’ll take a few pic’s as soon as I get the chance. The big thing for me, is I won’t have to start from scratch, it’s a good base to start with for this boat I'm restoring for my granbabies. I think you will like it. It reminds me of the one your building with out the swim platform. What I means, all the thickness's are the same as you are using. That should make you feel all warm and fussy, to know your building one the is all ready proven. :thumright: But I will still be building one for my 222ccp.
Just was outside and took a few measurements. It has a 26 1/2 inch set back and a 2 ½ inch thick mounting plate for the motor. Other then that all other thickness’s are the same as you are using. All 3/4.
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Hey fish, I just bought a used fiberglass bracket. I’ll have to modify it, to make it work. Its what they called a wet bracket. Its open to the water, which I don’t think is legal to sell now a days. They use to catch water and could pull some transoms under when backing down. So I need to close it up. I’ll take a few pic’s as soon as I get the chance. The big thing for me, is I won’t have to start from scratch, it’s a good base to start with for this boat I'm restoring for my granbabies. I think you will like it. It reminds me of the one your building with out the swim platform. What I means, all the thickness's are the same as you are using. That should make you feel all warm and fussy, to know your building one the is all ready proven. :thumright: But I will still be building one for my 222ccp.
Just was outside and took a few measurements. It has a 26 1/2 inch set back and a 2 ½ inch thick mounting plate for the motor. Other then that all other thickness’s are the same as you are using. All 3/4.
Oh great I am glad you found something you could use and thanks for taking the measurements. :mrgreen:
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Hey fish I mite be a day late and a dollar short, but here are a few pic’s of the bracket I pick up. Like I said, its all fiberglass no wood. 3/4 inches thick all over except the motor mounting plate which is 2 ½ inches thick. As you can see, this was a wet bracket. So I need to glass up the three 2” drain holes and the big cut out in the top and add a hatch cover to get access to the bolts. Also notice the taper, from the transom mounting surface to the motor mounting surface. It tapered on the two sides as well as the bottom running surface. Having the two side tapers eliminates the need for a center beam. Also there are two flanges, one on each side, near the top. They add stiffness to the bracket as well as the step in each side. So your brackets number are near enough to this one, that should prove your design. The one thing I don’t like, is only six mounting bolts. I’m adding two more, at the top and bottom center.
(http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/saltfly/boating/DSCN0561.jpg)
(http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/saltfly/boating/DSCN0559.jpg)
(http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/saltfly/boating/DSCN0555.jpg)
(http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/saltfly/boating/DSCN0560.jpg)
(http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/saltfly/boating/DSCN0562.jpg)
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Hey fish I mite be a day late and a dollar short, but here are a few pic’s of the bracket I pick up. Like I said, its all fiberglass no wood. 3/4 inches thick all over except the motor mounting plate which is 2 ½ inches thick. As you can see, this was a wet bracket. So I need to glass up the three 2” drain holes and the big cut out in the top and add a hatch cover to get access to the bolts. Also notice the taper, from the transom mounting surface to the motor mounting surface. It tapered on the two sides as well as the bottom running surface. Having the two side tapers eliminates the need for a center beam. Also there are two flanges, one on each side, near the top. They add stiffness to the bracket as well as the step in each side. So your brackets number are near enough to this one, that should prove your design. The one thing I don’t like, is only six mounting bolts. I’m adding two more, at the top and bottom center.
(http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/saltfly/boating/DSCN0561.jpg)
(http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/saltfly/boating/DSCN0559.jpg)
(http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/saltfly/boating/DSCN0555.jpg)
(http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/saltfly/boating/DSCN0560.jpg)
(http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/saltfly/boating/DSCN0562.jpg)
Looks good patch some holes make some new ones and hang a motor on it. :mrgreen:
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Here is the engine bracket propped up to the transom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-26-12_002.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6050&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Cut the swim platform out did some changes to make it less bulky looking.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-26-12_005.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6053&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-26-12_004.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6052&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-26-12_003.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6051&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Looks good. Can’t wait to see it finished. Have you measured for how high it will be mounted on your transom? I looked for later pic’s on sticks and knee-deep brackets mounted to their boats. on cs. I found them and don’t care for how low stricks sits. His swim plate form is all most sitting on the surface of the water, when slow running. Looks like there is to much drag. Kneedeeps is much better. His swim plate form sits higher and looks as though there is much less if any drag at slow speed. So I think that is some thing to conceders when you decide to mount how high up the transom. Some of the bracket manufactures’ give mounting numbers on their sites. You may want to look at what they think.
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Looks good. Can’t wait to see it finished. Have you measured for how high it will be mounted on your transom? I looked for later pic’s on sticks and knee-deep brackets mounted to their boats. on cs. I found them and don’t care for how low stricks sits. His swim plate form is all most sitting on the surface of the water, when slow running. Looks like there is to much drag. Kneedeeps is much better. His swim plate form sits higher and looks as though there is much less if any drag at slow speed. So I think that is some thing to conceders when you decide to mount how high up the transom. Some of the bracket manufactures’ give mounting numbers on their sites. You may want to look at what they think.
The height of the swim platform is a concern for me too. I am going to use it for diving and would like it low enough but not to drag in the water. The problem I have though is that i don't know where the water line will be since I have never had it in the water. Can help me with that issue?
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Will you have a ladder for the platform or is the plan to press up and kick then spin and sit?
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Sanded 6" around the cut out of the transom to get it ready to lay some glass in when we get a warm front come through.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-28-12_003.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6059&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Installed a 1 3/4" peice of coosa to help make match the flange or lip around the top edge of the hull.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-28-12_004.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6060&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
I found that when I calculated my height of the engine bracket I was shooting for 28-29" from keel but forgot to subtract the 4" offset. So I unscrewed the bracket and cut the 4" of height out of it. From my picture earlier it seemed high and really big. here is a picture of bracket and swim platform on the boat. The swim platform is about 1 1/2" low there is a black mark on the transom where it should be.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-28-12_005.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6061&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-28-12_006.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6062&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Will you have a ladder for the platform or is the plan to press up and kick then spin and sit?
Ladder for sure.
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My CCP with full platform. Note platform is mounted flush with factory transom opening.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/IMG00009.jpg)
Note location of boarding ladder
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/IMG00010.jpg)
Port side view of platform/bracket
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Tank.jpg)
CCP in calm water. Note waterline stripe.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/rom3andkarlatdogisle.jpg)
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My CCP with full platform. Note platform is mounted flush with factory transom opening.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/IMG00009.jpg)
Note location of boarding ladder
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/IMG00010.jpg)
Port side view of platform/bracket
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Tank.jpg)
CCP in calm water. Note waterline stripe.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/rom3andkarlatdogisle.jpg)
Capt. Bob thanks for chiming in. How many inches do you recall your waterline stipe is off of the chine
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Capt Bob thanks for chiming in. How many inches do you recall your waterline stipe is off of the chine
My pleasure Fish.
I can't ever remember measuring that dimension but there are a number of members with 80's model CCPs including Keith Knecht who now owns the CCP pictured. Hopefully we'll see some hard numbers on that distance to help you with yours.
Good luck. :thumleft:
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I think cap. Bob has it just right. My 150 Yamaha pulls my transom down a little more then my 175 Johnson did. But my over all water line didn’t change much. So I had planned to mount my bracket, when I build it, just where Capt. Bob did. My water line is just about the same as his.
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I think cap. Bob has it just right. My 150 Yamaha pulls my transom down a little more then my 175 Johnson did. But my over all water line didn’t change much. So I had planned to mount my bracket, when I build it, just where Capt. Bob did. My water line is just about the same as his.
Can you measure your water line for me? You have a 222CCP right?
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Looking good
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Fish sorry for taking so long getting back. Had a little problem called sandy. My water line was at 4 !/2” measuring from the chime were the side meets the transom. It is now 6”. The reason being, the motor change. The weight of my 175 Johnson was 393 Lbs. the new 150 Yamaha is 468 lbs. Why I say the average water line did not change, because the bow has a little more rise to it. In my opinion, these boats are a little sensitive to weight on the transom. I never had water come in the rear drains till I changed motors. Now when sitting in the water and only me at the transom, water comes in the drains and flows over the deck to were the beginning of the front edge of the splash well. So that is why I would mount it were Capt. Bob mounted his. That weight will pull your transom down.
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As a reference, the 96 Evinrude weight 450+ lbs. and was mounted 26" off the factory transom using the bracket/platform. The bracket was advertised as having floatation (air trapped in motor mount). I also had a 17 gal. bait well mounted on the platform on the starboard side. That added about 100+ lbs. when in use. I used the platform to fish off of and that (at the time) added another 180 lbs. so.......
Last I heard, boat hasn't sank.
I kept expandable plugs in my drains (cockpit) and they worked fine at keeping my feet dry.
Just a thought.
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A friend who is a guide of the Chesapeake also uses these expendable plugs in his chawk to keep his and his clients feet dry. i would prefer not to use them if i don't have to. I fish off shore with my boat and their is almost always wind and I would prefer the spray that comes in, goes out. My point was I never had to use them before the motor change and that on these boats, some times a little weight can make a difference in how the boat sits on the water and how it performs. I feel that yours is placed right for the weight that was added. Sence fish has at this time a chance to do his the best way the first time and not have to do it over, he is asking the right questions. Also mine hasn’t sunk yet either. :thumright:
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Thanks Alex yours is coming along well too.
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Fish sorry for taking so long getting back. Had a little problem called sandy. My water line was at 4 !/2” measuring from the chime were the side meets the transom. It is now 6”. The reason being, the motor change. The weight of my 175 Johnson was 393 Lbs. the new 150 Yamaha is 468 lbs. Why I say the average water line did not change, because the bow has a little more rise to it. In my opinion, these boats are a little sensitive to weight on the transom. I never had water come in the rear drains till I changed motors. Now when sitting in the water and only me at the transom, water comes in the drains and flows over the deck to were the beginning of the front edge of the splash well. So that is why I would mount it were Capt. Bob mounted his. That weight will pull your transom down.
No problem Saltfy glad you fared ok looks like just north of you did not take to the storm very well. Man what a disaster and I have seen what huricanes can do like Andrew when I lived in S. Florida to Katrina here in LA.
Thanks for the water line measurements I have some last minute figuring to do. I just got in some more glass and resin for the platform and will start soon since our cool front moved on. It's a race until the next cool front. :roll:
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As a reference, the 96 Evinrude weight 450+ lbs. and was mounted 26" off the factory transom using the bracket/platform. The bracket was advertised as having floatation (air trapped in motor mount). I also had a 17 gal. bait well mounted on the platform on the starboard side. That added about 100+ lbs. when in use. I used the platform to fish off of and that (at the time) added another 180 lbs. so.......
Last I heard, boat hasn't sank.
I kept expandable plugs in my drains (cockpit) and they worked fine at keeping my feet dry.
Just a thought.
Thanks Capt. Bob you have been a lot of help I appreciate it.
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Well it looks like my 225 optimax comes in at 497 a little more than Capt. Bob and Saltfly's engines so I will be looking at some water coming in possibly. I was thinking of those ping pong scuppers from keeping water from coming in and letting it out when you are on your way? Do they work or are they just a pipe dream? :mrgreen:
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Fish the Max flows are in my opinion the best in these type of drain covers. They work the best when mounted on the transom. Not as well when mounted on the side. I made a mistake an bought the other brand for my 19-6 . They don’t work that well, so I’ll be changing them to the max flows. I also like the fact, you can take them off with a twist to clean them. My other ones you can’t unless you take out the mounting screws. I get leave in mine and their a pain to clean.
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I was thinking of those ping pong scuppers from keeping water from coming in and letting it out when you are on your way? Do they work or are they just a pipe dream? <!-- s:mrgreen: -->:mrgreen:<!-- s:mrgreen: -->
Here's one member's experience with the side mounted PP scuppers.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=8109.msg64549#msg64549
The drain system on CCPs isn't a terrible design but as noted, additional weight in the stern can lead to damp toes. In the earlier model aquas, you'll find plenty of comments on keeping water out of the stern area when there are several people fishing or re-powering has lead to the use of a heavier engine. On these earlier models, the ping pong ball scuppers have been used with success and a search will show that a fair amount of members do indeed like them. The CCPs however have a different type of self bailing cockpit with the drains using a displacement method to remove water and are located on the hull sides. Not good for devices protruding into the water flow.
I often pondered that if I had re-built my old CCP, I might have relocated the drain hoses (re-plumbed) to empty into the bilge. Of course the thru hull side drains would need removal and re-glassing but that could be handled properly during the re-build. Draining into the bilge eliminates the need for the expandable plugs in the deck and keeps the toes dry. Yes, one needs a properly installed and functioning bilge pump with float switch/chip type but it's something that really should be in place anyway.
I see no downside to draining "cockpit to bilge" at all. If the boat is trailered, removal of the drain plug (SOP) is all that is needed if the hull is stored in the elements. If the boat is kept in a slip, then a functioning bilge is a necessary item anyway. Additional weight of engine or corn fed fishing buddies are no longer factored in, at least up to a point. <!-- s:roll: -->:roll:<!-- s:roll: --> During prolonged periods of rain, the electrical source for the pump(s) would need closer monitoring but then I would think that too would be SOP for slip dwellers. <!-- s:idea: -->:idea:<!-- s:idea: -->
Just a thought.
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I don’t know what your plans are for your drains. I did notice you glassed the holes in the sides. What you may want to think about, which is what I’m going to do. A friend suggested I put them out the transom. Since you are rebuilding it any way. I also was looking again at your pic. Of your boat with your bracket. Did you have trim tabs? It looked like there is a shadow line were they where. If you mount your bracket were it is in the pics. It look like you will interfere with remounting your tab cylinders.
Also thanks for showing all the pics. I’m going to be referring to them a lot when I redo my 222ccp and build my bracket. :thumleft:
I also went back an looked at keths redo of his 222ccp open transom (reef or madness). His bracket is also mounted even with the top of his transom.
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The biggest issue the CCP owners are having is clogged drains/hoses. Through the years they just get an accumulation of stuff down them.
Since you're changing her around...how about straight out the back end like Salt is doing?
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Or out the side. I'm getting those black plugs and closing mine off from the inside when not rough or getting spray over the side!
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I also went back an looked at keths redo of his 222ccp open transom (reef or madness). His bracket is also mounted even with the top of his transom.
So there's no confusion, (it may just be me who's confused) Keith's "new" rebuild is my "old" CCP. Same bracket and motor. I removed the trim tabs and installed them on my 91 WAC. Therefore, with the mounting of the top of the platform flush with the old style transom cutout, there was room for the tabs but......
While the tab location themselves did meet Bennett's minimum clearance standard between tab and lower unit, I would have liked to have mounted them a little further out (closer to the chine) but that would have interfered with the upper actuator mount. That stated, while tab performance was excellent, I'd bet it would have been a noticeable difference (less tab/more action) so.....
With Fish closing in his transom, he could mount the platform a little higher to allow for the optimum tab mount position and still get the benefit of the bracket/platform.
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I don’t know what your plans are for your drains. I did notice you glassed the holes in the sides. What you may want to think about, which is what I’m going to do. A friend suggested I put them out the transom. Since you are rebuilding it any way. I also was looking again at your pic. Of your boat with your bracket. Did you have trim tabs? It looked like there is a shadow line were they where. If you mount your bracket were it is in the pics. It look like you will interfere with remounting your tab cylinders.
Also thanks for showing all the pics. I’m going to be referring to them a lot when I redo my 222ccp and build my bracket. :thumleft:
I also went back an looked at keths redo of his 222ccp open transom (reef or madness). His bracket is also mounted even with the top of his transom.
My drains are out the back of the transom. I might have glassed over the bildge hole on the inside. But will redrill out later. I do have trim tabs and do want to put them back on so my bracket hieght will be an issue. I have seen where you can get shorter rams for them though. That might be the ticket.
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Or out the side. I'm getting those black plugs and closing mine off from the inside when not rough or getting spray over the side!
I saw how they did your's and wanted to do it myself but they would be in the way of my factory rigging tubes. Since i was not re-doing my floor I will need to keep them going out the back.
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Capt. Bob their must have been some confusion, I thought we where both saying the same thing. I said in the beginning I liked were yours was mounted. If you look at the pic. On page 7 Were fish has his bracket with the swim platform, sitting against his transom. It is below the old transom lip by a few inches. I also have my trim tabs mounted out near my chimes. If you look at my post on mounting my trim tabs you will see how far out I did mount them. Also I get great response from my tabs out there.
Fish was your drains out the back?????????? On my 222ccp they are out the sides, and like grand said, the 90 degree turns are a problem with any debre. So I’m going to do away with those 90’s and go strait with just some drop.
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Capt. Bob their must have been some confusion, I thought we where both saying the same thing. I said in the beginning I liked were yours was mounted. If you look at the pic. On page 7 Were fish has his bracket with the swim platform, sitting against his transom. It is below the old transom lip by a few inches. I also have my trim tabs mounted out near my chimes. If you look at my post on mounting my trim tabs you will see how far out I did mount them. Also I get great response from my tabs out there.
Fish was your drains out the back?????????? On my 222ccp they are out the sides, and like grand said, the 90 degree turns are a problem with any debre. So I’m going to do away with those 90’s and go strait with just some drop.
yes mine were out the back.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/7-29-2012_010.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5463&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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You can see to the left of the picture the large hole in the transom was the drain hole and to the right of that was a group of holes for the top mount of the trim tab actuator.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/7-29-2012_013.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5464&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Ok that explains it. So yes the maxflows will work great on your boat. I made the mistake. I thought yours came out the sides like mine. The only thing about all of these types of drain stoppers, you need to have a large flat surface for mounting. On my 19-6, the person who had it, put plasetic drains. That didn't have a flat surface. so I had to remove them to put on any of those drain stoppers.
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Capt. Bob their must have been some confusion
Yes there is (was) on my part. The 89 doesn't not have the standard cockpit drains as earlier models but rather the drains used on later models like my 91. The transom is not at all like the earlier CCPs. They did have those drains also to remove water from that area of the transom. I don't know why I didn't see that. Just didn't look that close. That stated, just use the rubber or ping pong scuppers. You need to replace the rubber ones when they get brittle but keeping them clean and covered with 303 spray works well.
My bad for not looking closer at the 89 model. Mine (was) is an 84.
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Hey fish how is your bracket coming along? Looking forward to see more pic’s of your boat and the bracket. Like I said I plan on referring to them when I get around to doing mine.
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Hey fish how is your bracket coming along? Looking forward to see more pic’s of your boat and the bracket. Like I said I plan on referring to them when I get around to doing mine.
Hey saltfly been working on glassing in the back of the transom and the transom cap. I'ts been getting a little cold here so I have had a smaller window to lay glass in.
I also ran out of 1708 again and will have to work on the engine bracket until the 1708 comes in. :x
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Looking forward to seeing your progress. i'm going to order matl. from the same company you and others are ordering from. Thier pricing is better then were i was going to order from. :thumleft:
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Between Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Years, Anniversary cruise, and what ever life can throw at you I was able to work on the boat this last weekend. Oh and I forgot cold weather.
I made some fiberglass pieces to fill in the voids I cutout in the stringers to install the new transom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/10-6-12_003.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5929&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Made some templates out of 1/4" material that has a smooth laminate on one side. Hot gun glued it together.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/1-28-13_010.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6475&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
layed 4 layers of 1708 and placed some heat lamps to help the epoxy setup due to temp droping around 60 deg.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/1-28-13_011.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6476&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
The heat lamp heated everything up so much the hot glue started to soften up so I had to turn lamps off. Placed the forms in the laundy room overnight where it stays warm enough for the epoxy to set up. I will show finished form when it is all cleaned up.
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:thumleft:
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Damn,
Looks like a machine did the overlaps. :thumleft:
I love these CCP rebuilds. :cheers:
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Any work on the bracket?
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Yep. Have all 4 layers of 1780 cut out ready to glass in on the interior of the bracket.
Next two weekends are pretty busy with superbowl and mardi gras in New orleans but will get back to it after that.
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Finally was able to get back working on the boat today. I cleaned up and fit the stringer extensions I had build a few month's ago.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/4-5-13_044.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6966&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/4-5-13_045.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6967&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/4-5-13_046.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6968&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/4-5-13_047.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6969&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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I placed the live well that I made a few month's back in it's place to see what is needed to do next.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/4-5-13_048.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6970&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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I really want to put a access hatch in the floor in front of the livewell but I am running out of room since the livewell will come out into the floor a lot. So I was thinking of shortening the gas tank compartment giving me more room for a hatch. the squiggling lines show how much I can take out of tank compartment giving more floor space. See what you all think. Of coarse any suggestions would be welcome. :D
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/4-5-13_049.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6971&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Sure,
Why not.
That setup you have is typical of the 80's CCPs. Mine had an old rotted 2x4 installed to keep the tank from shifting fore and aft. :o
Good idea if you can pull it off. :thumleft:
Good luck.
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Well I jumped in and did some more demo today I hope I can get it all to work out. I feel like I have gone off the deep end at this point but I tend to push the limits in a lot of things I do.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/4-7-13_002.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6986&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
I cleaned the transom and stringers with acetone then mixed up some epoxy/cabosil and set the stringer extensions.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/4-7-13_003.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6987&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Nice clean work :salut:
I'll be scoping this next phase out to learn too.
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Was able to get out last weekend to work on the boat and was able to fit the rear of the gas tank coffin back into place. Ended up with some gaps but will be able to shim and get it close before glassing it in.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/5-8-13_0011.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7253&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Cut and ruff fit some 1/2" coosa for a new rear floor. Maybe this weekend I can cut an access door in the floor and work on tying the floor and transom together. Take a look in the gas tank coffin I was able to line up the gap in the coffin much better.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/5-9-13_003.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7252&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Hey everybody was able to get some work done this weekend. here is a picture of new coosa floor with bilge access door cut out.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/5-19-13_007.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7311&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
I added some 1 1/2" strips of coosa to the bottom of the door for extra strength then two layers of 1.5, then 4 layers of 1708 on top and to top it off a piece of visqueen.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/5-19-13_008.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7312&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/5-19-13_009.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7313&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
I finally got some glass on my engine bracket. 4 layers of 1708 on the outside overlapping starting at 4" down to 1".
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/5-19-13_011.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7314&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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It's been awhile but doesn't mean I haven't been at it. I finally figured out how to make my bilge hatch cover frame that has a groove to catch the water off the deck.
The 1/4' template to route out MDF pieces.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/6-16-13_018.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7469&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=500)
First layer of MDF.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/6-16-13_020.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7471&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=500)
Second layer of MDF.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/6-16-13_019.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7470&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=500)
Both layers screwed together, routed, and bondo applied to fill cracks, screw holes, and filet edges.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/6-16-13_022.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7472&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=500)
First layer of duratec primer then sanded and filled with some polyester filler to fill any blemishes left from bondo filler.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/6-16-13_024.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7473&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Second coat of duratec then 4 layers of wax and PVA.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/6-16-13_027.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7474&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Should be ready for some fiberglass now. :mrgreen:
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That mold looks great! :cheers:
I can't wait to see how it turns out.
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That mold looks great! :cheers:
I can't wait to see how it turns out.
Thanks Carl it has been a learning experience.
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Sprayed multiple coats of gelcoat/ duratec clear gloss.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/6-18-13_001.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7482&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Laid 4 layers of 1708.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/6-18-13_002.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7483&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Popped off fiberglass part. There is a little of PVA that need to be washed off but the part looks pretty smooth and shinny. I am pretty pleased with the first try. Now its time to fit this part into the floor panel.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/6-18-13_003.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7484&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Beautiful :salut:
I might have to try my hand at that :idea:
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Beautiful :salut:
I might have to try my hand at that :idea:
Thanks Rick. The mold comes off looking really simple looking but the wood work and design work of the mold really tested me.
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VERY professional. That would have been big money at a glass shop.
:thumright:
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Thanks Rick. The mold comes off looking really simple looking but the wood work and design work of the mold really tested me.
Working in negatives is not easy but you did it well.
I am surprised you got the 1708 to roll into that small groove - that stuff is not corner/edge friendly.
I have no experience spraying gelcoat but my entire boat will be re-gelled so eventually I will get good at it. I'll probably be pinging you for tips on that. I have the equipment and the ability, just never tried it.
Will you be draining the gutters anywhere or just letting them sit with water in them? What about the lid - just laying flat over this beauty?
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Thanks Rick. The mold comes off looking really simple looking but the wood work and design work of the mold really tested me.
Working in negatives is not easy but you did it well.
I am surprised you got the 1708 to roll into that small groove - that stuff is not corner/edge friendly.
I have no experience spraying gelcoat but my entire boat will be re-gelled so eventually I will get good at it. I'll probably be pinging you for tips on that. I have the equipment and the ability, just never tried it.
Will you be draining the gutters anywhere or just letting them sit with water in them? What about the lid - just laying flat over this beauty?
The 1708 had to be stuffed in crack with a plastic spreader used to apply bondo and 2 layers we stuffed in at a time. the last two layers were difficult but worked out. I did 2 layers in the straight runs first, then corners, and then the last 2 layers in same sequence as first run. The router set up with a 1/2" round over bit did the trick a lot better than the 3/8" I have used in the past.
I have sprayed a few different types of paint including base coat clear coat so I am not afraid to paint but have never sprayed gelcoat. Now mixing the gelcoat with duratec gloss clear probably made it a lot easier due to thinning the gelcoat out a lot.
With the gutters I am planning on plumbing it into a sump box so the water can be pumped over board. I don't want it to enter bilge. I am trying to work out the front fish box and anchor locker to drain into this sump box ( if you can call it that because I don't have it all designed yet).
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That came out great! You obviously had good success with the 1708, but for a fiberglassing newbie, what would be a better cloth to use for those tight corners and bends?
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That came out great! You obviously had good success with the 1708, but for a fiberglassing newbie, what would be a better cloth to use for those tight corners and bends?
I don't know I am a newbie too. It wasn't that difficult. In the corners I cut a piece in a triangle shape and then cut slits in both sides at the round over edge. You just have to wet out the fiberglass real good and take charge of it don't let it take charge you. I also used vinyle ester so you have more time to work it unlike epoxy.
I have a few more of these hatches for the transom and console to make so I can show more pictures of the process of applying the fiberglass.
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Spraying gel:
Guys...check into renting a gelcoat spray gun. It mixes the gel and catalyst via two nozzles before it hits the surface...no mixing on our part.
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Hey guys, I've been thinking (could be dangerous!)...
We've seen several folks do a nice job making up these molds for their rebuilds, but what happens to the mold when they are done? :scratch:
It would be cool if we could list/collect who has these molds and maybe others could use them in their builds - think of the time and effort that would save! :cheers:
What do y'all think about (maybe in Resources?) having a section on molds/fixtures where members could show a pic of a mold - then others could borrow it for their build?
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Hey guys, I've been thinking (could be dangerous!)...
We've seen several folks do a nice job making up these molds for their rebuilds, but what happens to the mold when they are done? :scratch:
It would be cool if we could list/collect who has these molds and maybe others could use them in their builds - think of the time and effort that would save! :cheers:
What do y'all think about (maybe in Resources?) having a section on molds/fixtures where members could show a pic of a mold - then others could borrow it for their build?
John, that is an excellent idea!
We borrow/source/send each other stuff anyway. The legend of Classic Aquasport lives on! :thumright:
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Hey guys, I've been thinking (could be dangerous!)...
We've seen several folks do a nice job making up these molds for their rebuilds, but what happens to the mold when they are done? :scratch:
It would be cool if we could list/collect who has these molds and maybe others could use them in their builds - think of the time and effort that would save! :cheers:
What do y'all think about (maybe in Resources?) having a section on molds/fixtures where members could show a pic of a mold - then others could borrow it for their build?
ON EDIT---SORRY FOR THE DERAIL. PROBABLY SHOULD HAVE MADE A NEW THREAD.
I was thinking about this. I have decided to keep my hatch covers and incorporate at least 1 maybe all three into my build. I was thinking about cutting the cast deck off in one piece(just the deck, not the front step up) and making a mold out of it for the hatch lips. Would this work. I could make 2 molds, one to keep in one piece and one to cut into 3 pieces for individual molds. Would this be something that people might want to reuse.
cut it where the yellow line is for mold purposes.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/txshadow49/The%20BOAT%20BUILD/classified%20photos/2e538d1e-cfb3-48b7-a60f-3292b2010332_zps863af671.jpg)
this how you could cut them to get individual molds. I think it would be worth the effort, what do you think.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/txshadow49/The%20BOAT%20BUILD/classified%20photos/d3babb17-918f-43d8-8ba3-6c399697c8bb_zps22eac31a.jpg)
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That would work if you made a mold from the originals and then make a new part from the new mold the size of the new part should be the same as the original right? :mrgreen:
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There is slight shrinkage...but yes, should fit.
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Hey fish how are you making out on your rebuild? I’m really interested in how your bracket is turning out and if you have done any fit checks. Your doing what I hope to be able to do this winter. looking forward to seeing more.
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I have not been working on the boat since last post. I hope to get back at it maybe next weekend. It's been so damn hot and humid here. Been thinking about building temp walls in carport and sticking a window unit in a wall.
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Man I can understand that. That’s why I’m doing my boat this winter. I going to put it in a heated building. The boat I’m fixing up for grandchildren, is being done in the dive way, and I’m only working on it from 8 to 11 am. After that its to hot to work on it. An down their where you live is even hotter then here, but you have some great red fishing. That we would love to have.
:thumleft:
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7a to 11a is my work day in this heat.
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Man I can understand that. That’s why I’m doing my boat this winter. I going to put it in a heated building. The boat I’m fixing up for grandchildren, is being done in the dive way, and I’m only working on it from 8 to 11 am. After that its to hot to work on it. An down their where you live is even hotter then here, but you have some great red fishing. That we would love to have.
:thumleft:
We do have some great fishing here from inshore to offshore. What gives our state some great fishing also gives us mostly chocolate milk for water color. :(
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With this heat I have had problems with gel-coat curing in my spray gun so I went ahead and bought a ( ES-200) two part spray gun that sprays gel and hardner separately. Has anybody had any luck with this type of gun? Hopefully this new gun will help with the problem I am having.
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Hey fish, how did you make out with that new spray gun? I have to do some gel coat spraying next week. Temps here have been great for all types of fiberglass or gel coat work. 55 in the morning 80 by noon. Trying to get this 21 done for the kids. Going to spray the transom and bracket, so I can get the bracket mounted. Made a bunch of templates off the bracket, so I can build one for my 222ccp. how did yours turn out?
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No I haven't been able to do much but re arrange everything a few times. I am real organized for nice fall weather. Its still hot here with highs in the mid 90's to low 70's. Real conductive to setup times of resin and gelcoat. Let me know how your spaying goes.
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If you don’t mind me asking. How much glass and rosin did you use for your bracket. I’m going to order material for mine, so I can start it before it gets cold up here. Its going down in the 50’s at night here and getting in the high 60’s and low 70’s during the day, all this week so it will be good for working with gel coat and glass.
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It's been awhile but I think it took about 7 gals of poly resin and it took a 52" roll of 1708 to do my transom and bracket. I did 4 layers inside and out of bracket and 4 layers on inside of transom and 4 layers on outboard cutout on outside of transom. By the way that is just bracket no swim platform. Hope this helps.
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Thanks that will help a lot. When I get the boat inside this winter, I’ll be closing in my transom. So the info your giving me will be of great help. :thumleft: I did have one more question, if you don't mind. How thick is four layers of 1708?
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Thanks that will help a lot. When I get the boat inside this winter, I’ll be closing in my transom. So the info your giving me will be of great help. :thumleft: I did have one more question, if you don't mind. How thick is four layers of 1708?
Right around 1/4".
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Thanks again much appreciated. That's just what I was hoping.
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Hey fishin, well I finished spraying my gel coat, on my transom and the bracket. It turned out fine for what I’m doing, 4 coats. It just needs to be wet sanded with 420 then 900 grit wet and dry. Then compounded with fine compound then waxed. That will be a job for my son in law. I used my Kobolt gravy feed spray gun. I did remove the liquid sieve ( thats what they call it, its just a screen filter) from the nipple. I do that so the thicker gel coat will flow thru the gun better. It also gives me better control over the gel coat out of the gun. Its been great for spraying here. Its been in the 50’s in the morning and 70’s in the afternoon. So I’ve had plenty of time to spray then clean up before any problems with drying gel. It takes 6hrs to dry and over night to get hard, so I can sand it. The only problem I had was mixing the pigment to tint the gel coat, I'm color blind. :colors: :cry:
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That's great saltfly the cooler weather really helps when spraying gelcoat. Did you take any pictures while you did your project? I know I would have loved to have folloed your progress.
I have been working pretty hard on my boat the last two weekends since it has cooled off some. Working on my floor insert, livewell, livewell bracket off stringers, and faring engine bracket. I have been working on all these parts at once and when they are finished up I will post all the pictures.
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I took some pic’s and will be putting them on the thread I started for that boat. I just want to get the bracket mounted and a few thing done on the inside. Then I’ll update that thread. I don’t want to high jack your thread. :salut:
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Hey all I have been purchasing all new fuel lines and need to know what size hose is normally used to go to my outboard? I have the old hoses from 1986 but no size is shown and measuring the ID seems to be around 3/8".
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Hey all I have been purchasing all new fuel lines and need to know what size hose is normally used to go to my outboard? I have the old hoses from 1986 but no size is shown and measuring the ID seems to be around 3/8".
Can anybody help me out on this hose size? Thanks
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3/8ths is correct. :thumleft:
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3/8ths is correct. :thumleft:
Thanks. :mrgreen:
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Feed hose, 3/8". Vent hose, 5/8". Fill hose, 1 1/2".
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Feed hose, 3/8". Vent hose, 5/8". Fill hose, 1 1/2".
Thanks bob.
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I know it's been awhile but here it goes. I removed the boat off it's trailer got it on some jack stands and filled some of the low spots with polyester filler.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1259.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8380&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Had to grind out the gas tank vent fitting and wanted to fill over an old livewell drain so patched it with some 1708.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1262.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8381&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Used some tape to keep any runs of the hull and to adhere visquene to the patch to cure the vinylester resin.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1263.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8382&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Sprayed the hull with a few coats of Duratec high build primer.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1277.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8383&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Sanded it down with a long board and some 80 grit paper to make the low spots pop, which are the dark spots.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1278.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8384&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Applied some more polyester filler over the dark low spots and started to sand again.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1279.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8385&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Sprayed some more coats of Duratec primer over the filler.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_12801.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8386&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Hopefully this weekend I can get some white gelcoat on this side of the hull. :cheers:
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Great progress :cheers:
What are you using for filler - is it Bondo?
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Looking great! I assume you used a pneumatic long board? I am a long way off from the stage you are at, and I have a lot to learn, so I appreciate the photos of the process!
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Rickk and CLM65 you can see in the picture what I am using for filler and sanding.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1306.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8387&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Great work! Thanks for the step by step. Thats going to look insanely awesome. What color are you going with for the hull?
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Keel Blue sides - white bottom, cap, and inside.
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I applied three coats of gelcoat/ duratec clear gloss today as a base coat for the keel blue. This white should really make the blue look electric. :lol:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1307.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8388&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Little bit of orange peel some sanding can take out.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1308.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8389&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
A rear view. Lots of orange peel lots of gloss. :mrgreen:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1309.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8390&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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What are you shooting it with? A gel coat dump gun or an HVLP spray gun? And if you know what tip size that would be cool to know as well. Thanks!!!
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I am using a husky HVLP from Home Depot. I don't know the tip size but when you mix the gel coat and duratec clear , 50%/50%, it ends up real thin so it sprays easy. I have tried the dump gun with the duratec primer and the results were not good on a vertical surface. Flat it works well.
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It's most likely a 1.4 or a 1.8 mm tip. For unthinned gel coat you need a 2.4mm, but if its thinned a bit from the duratec then you should be right on the money. I'm thinking of going HVLP for final coats.
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Koz you could spray gel with the dump gun, sand to knock it down then spray with gel/ duratec. Which ever you go there is a lot of sanding then buffing.
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Last week I finally finished faring hull and was ready to spray some gel on again.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1315.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8514&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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As usual I had planned on working on old CCP over the thanksgiving break but the weather has had a plan of it's own. :roll: Highs in the 30-40's and lows in the 25-30's not ideal for outside boat working. Well Saturday I was able to get out and work on some forms and interior work that I will show pictures of later. On Sunday we had some beautiful weather started in the low 40's and ended up high 60's. I was able to shoot three coats of gel/Duratec high gloss on the hull.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1334.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8515&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1333.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8516&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Ok here is where I left off the inside work a month or so ago. I fit and cut a 1/2" piece of Coosa and cut a hole in it for the access door gutter I made.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/5-19-13_0071.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8521&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Took out the floor piece to fit gutter in and vinylester it in with four layers of 1708.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1215.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8517&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Embeded gutter with vinylester/ Cabosol.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1216.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8518&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Cut 1708 to fit around gutter.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1229.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8519&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Finished and ready for gelcoat.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1230.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8520&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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I set up everything to check fit of floor, livewell stand, livewell, and temporary transom cap.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1331.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8526&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Next I am going to work on a transom cap mold with access doors and livewell lid.
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I want to make a form that follows the transom curve on the temporary transom cap. So I traced the cure on 2... 2x6x8 and cut the curve out with a jigsaw.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1322.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8527&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Then Cut some 2x4 to complete the jig.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1332.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8528&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
You can see right next to the jig there is the top cut out of 3/4" MDF board. It will be set on the jig and glued then nailed to follow the new curved profile.
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This is great stuff. :salut:
I'm interested in seeing how this all fits in place. As I've stated before, spatial is not a strong suit for me. :scratch:
Good luck. :thumright:
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This is great stuff. :salut:
I'm interested in seeing how this all fits in place. As I've stated before, spatial is not a strong suit for me. :scratch:
Good luck. :thumright:
Thanks Capt. Bob it's been a real journey. A good one though. :mrgreen:
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Fish, that looks good Man! Is that gelcoat as smooth as it looks? If so, is that sanded and buffed out or did you spray it that smooth? If so please tell you secret.
Also, I was trying to post pics but I can't get them to upload. I'm not sure if it's the site or I have a connection issues this morning. If I don't get them posted before I leave for work I will get them posted at work.
Talk to you later.
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Very impressive!
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Fish, that looks good Man! Is that gelcoat as smooth as it looks? If so, is that sanded and buffed out or did you spray it that smooth? If so please tell you secret.
Also, I was trying to post pics but I can't get them to upload. I'm not sure if it's the site or I have a connection issues this morning. If I don't get them posted before I leave for work I will get them posted at work.
Talk to you later.
Carl remember I sprayed the boat with half and half gel/duratec gloss so it lays down a lot easier. I also plan so sand and buff in a few weeks when it's all cured.
I had a lot of problems uploading post too so it must be something going on with site. That's why I uploaded so many post due to problems with posting multiple pictures in post.
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Very impressive!
Thanks Craig.
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All of it looks super :salut:
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Totally cool! love it. looking great!
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Thanks Rick and Steve I can't wait till this weekend I hope the weather is good.
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Ok guys I know its been a month since I posted anything but that doesn't mean I haven't been doing any work on the old CCP. Between the holidays and cold weather this is what I have been able to accomplish.
I mounted some MDF board onto the curved jig for the transom cap top. Then traced the livewell to give me an idea of its placement and cut some 1 1/2" strips of MDF to start the mold for the livewell gutter.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1372.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8865&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Here are the 1 1/2" and 2" MDF strips laid out in place with the corners marked out with 3' schedule 40 PVC pipe to trim later.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1373.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8866&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Here I have trimmed the corners with a jig saw and removed the top layer of MDF to expose the 2" inner layer of MDF.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1385.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8867&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Now I have placed 3" sch. 40PVC pipe in the corners and secured them down with some scrap MDF. Once in place then bondo was applied to easily fill and form a perfect radius in the corners ( thanks Craig for sharing). Also at this time filled any other nail holes and imperfections with bondo.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1386.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8868&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Then in around 30 minutes removed the PVC pipes and sanded everything smooth.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1388.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8870&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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First step was a router with a 1/2 round over bit was run around the inside of the outer layer of MDF. Then the inside layer of MDF was nailed down and a final hand sanding over everything to smooth out any ruff spots.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1390.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8871&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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For the final touch 3 coats of Duratec highbuild primer was sprayed over the mold to seal and produce a hard coating to be able to lay some fiberglass.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1391.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8872&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Taking advantage of the cold weather I did some grinding on the transom to get it ready for the new transom cap. Well I really wanted to have the original lines where the hull is attached to the cap to continue around the back of the boat. You can see when I rebuilt the transom the fiberglass was just folded over the transom and did not look like the factory mold on the ends of the transom. So I decided to make up a piece to cover over that area so it would have a factory look. So here it goes.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1324.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8873&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Here is the mold made from some 3/4" MDF board and a strip of 1/2"x 2" scrap wood laying around. Then I nailed them together, sprayed some duratec primer on the mold and finally 5 coats of wax.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1318.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8874&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Next here is the finished product of cleaned up 4 layers of 1708 ready to be installed.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1370.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8875&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Now the piece is dry fitted and ready to be epoxied this weekend when the weather warms up. :cheers:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1371.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8876&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Beautiful work :thumright:
Been here a while, and IMHO the current rebuilds are the best yet. Great talent and craftsmanship.
A professional is expected to deliver a professional job. Yet, a "professional" can deliver a poor job. Either way...or in between...you're billed a hefty labor rate per hour.
The DIY craftsman who has studied and researched the experience of others....thank goodness for Al Gore and the Internet....can in many ways get a better and more careful project than the pros.
Case in point...drain channels. Most shops would say no biggee. It will only be a little water anyway, don't worry about it. Heck...they'd be surprised if you brought it up at all.
Vacuum bagging, mold-making, coring, drains, gelcoat application, polyester/vinylester/epoxy, measuring, radii, etc., etc...it's all here on Classic Aquasport.
Great work guys :thumright:
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Ditto ^^
Doing some fine work there :salut:
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X3! That looks great!
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X4 That looks really good :salut:
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Have to absolutely love the custom one offs here!!!!!
Really late question Fish, did you trace the top transom shape or did you go from cap top to cap top? I missed that part when looking back at the 2x4 setup..
Damn nice work!
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Nice, nice, nice! :salut:
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Awesome work and execution. Looking great!
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Just a heads up... Make sure that spray of duratec filled every seam where your nailed on pieces meet the backing board. If resin or gel coat creep under you will be very unhappy. I learned the hard way and it took me longer to fix the resulting chips than it did to make the pieces in the first place. It looks fairly sealed but I question the spray guns ability to have sprayed well in that narrow channel of the gutter rings.
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Thanks guys for the praise and great support.
Koz I know what you mean. I probably will do a light sand and a few more coats to make sure everything is well covered and smooth.
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Have to absolutely love the custom one offs here!!!!!
Really late question Fish, did you trace the top transom shape or did you go from cap top to cap top? I missed that part when looking back at the 2x4 setup..
Damn nice work!
I used a temporary piece of plywood to creat the transom curve I was looking for. Then traced that curve onto the 2x6 boards.
Hope to get back to work this weekend. It should warm up to lower 70's. :cheers:
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New to the thread, just wanted to chime in and say that's some beautiful work you're doing. Wish the weather here would cooperate so we could see more of your progress!
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New to the thread, just wanted to chime in and say that's some beautiful work you're doing. Wish the weather here would cooperate so we could see more of your progress!
Thanks buddy I appreciate the compliments. I have been doing a little bit here and there between holidays and family fun. I will post some progress today.
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I have been working on my transom cap for a few months off and on in the cold winter this year.
Here is a picture of the front of the transom cap with two access door hatches.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_13991.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9307&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
This picture shows top form of transom cap in place.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1401.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9301&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Here I am fitting live well in place to make sure everything is fitting as needed.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1400.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9302&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Now the front form of the transom cap is in place ready to cut up for a bump out so the live well will fit.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1402.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9303&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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I cut up the front form to provide a bump out so the live well will fit.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1445.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9304&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Here she is all put together ready for some filling, sanding, and primer. I did forget to take a picture of the rear of the cap wrapping down the back of the transom. Well now you can see it upside down. That was a real pain in the butt. That wrap around the back literally made this whole form take more than a month to come together.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1447.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9305&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Here I placed the liv well on top of the form for fitting purposes. I will need to build up around the flange for a flush fit while I glass everything in.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1446.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9306&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
I do like working on the boat but it sure is hard to do this when tuna and wahoo are running 12 mi off of Venice. :cry:
I might have to spring for a charter trip. :mrgreen:
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I wouldn't know how to tackle a form that big - WOW.
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I wouldn't know how to tackle a form that big - WOW.
I am thinking of two separate lay ups doing one side then laying it over and doing the other side. This whole piece has tested me so far. I hope it works there would be a lot of time and material invested in the final piece.
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WOW X2.
VERY impressive. Pros can't take the time to get a job like this :thumright:
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Thanks Gran.
Here is my next mold to build. A console designed after a Mako that was sitting over at Bas Pro shops. What a nice looking boat. Then I added a seat and raised the console 4" for a toe kick. The toe kick was added not just for the toes but to hide the install led lights.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1449.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9308&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Nice!
You will like the toe-kick. Makes for a really clean install too, since its screwed to the deck from inside.
Guess you'll core it?
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That is some piece of cabinetry!!!! :thumright: Wow!!
In the picture the corners on the bump for the live well do not look like they have been radiused yet is that just because of the picture angle?
As an after thought what about making a flange on the vertical side of the new face to give you a tab surface that is molded to the new piece? That would give you a surface to glue direct to the liner and then you can tab over that to make that whole joint stronger. Added step and more time but it might make for easier fairing in the boat because you would not be fairing in the corner but "on the flat"..
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The Radio Flyer wagon seals the deal... :thumright: :thumright:
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Nice!
You will like the toe-kick. Makes for a really clean install too, since its screwed to the deck from inside.
Guess you'll core it?
Yes your right I plan to make a flange on the floor to attach the console down. I will need to core a good bit of the console because I want to attach the t-top directly to the console not the deck.
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That is some piece of cabinetry!!!! :thumright: Wow!!
In the picture the corners on the bump for the live well do not look like they have been radiused yet is that just because of the picture angle?
As an after thought what about making a flange on the vertical side of the new face to give you a tab surface that is molded to the new piece? That would give you a surface to glue direct to the liner and then you can tab over that to make that whole joint stronger. Added step and more time but it might make for easier fairing in the boat because you would not be fairing in the corner but "on the flat"..
After I screwed the two pieces together I did notice I missed routing the radius. Good eye! The first thing I have to do is take the two pieces apart. Not too big of a deal.
The vertical form overlaps the existing liner by a few inches so the fairing will be done on a flat area. Another good point though. :mrgreen:
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The Radio Flyer wagon seals the deal... :thumright: :thumright:
My sons been looking for that wagon. Have to keep that quite. :wink:
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The transom mold is coming out sweet! Your a few months ahead of me with a similar layout so its nice to see it happen before I take a stab at it. Looks awesome cant wait to see more progress.
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Man that looks great! Awesome job!
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Thanks guys for the positive support.
I have been working on the outside of transom prepping it for gelcoat and prepping this transom cap mold all last weekends thru the week after work and all this weekend. Been taking lots of pictures so I should have a good progress report maybe tomorrow night or early next week.
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As promised been working on this segment since last weekend. Even took a couple days off during the week to get this part of the project going.
Took form apart routed some more edges, formed clay radius, re-primed, 5 coats of wax and three coats of peel ply.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1456.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9462&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Sprayed multiple coats of straight gelcoat no duratec additive. Of course every bug in town had to visit. :roll:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1460.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9460&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Screwed the two forms back together and started to form the clay radius.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1461.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9461&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Simple easy way to sculpt the clay with a socket and extension then wipe it again with your finger and presto perfect radius.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1462.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9463&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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1 layer of 3/4oz. CS, 4 layers of 1708, then 4 additional layers at turn up of 8" wide 1708.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1475.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9464&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Then two layers of 3/4" Coosa at turn up for rod holder support and two layers of Nidacore to flush out the bottom of the live well gutter so the live well mount and seal.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1476.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9465&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
I will go back and add two more layers of 1708 over Coosa and Nidacore.
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Flipped form on its side to work on other side.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1477.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9466&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Filled cracks and ends of nidacore with thickened vinyle ester/ cabosil. Then 4 layers of 1708 over everything. In the bump out for the live well I added 1 layer of Nidacore and 1 layer of 1708.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1478.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9467&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
We had a front come thru last night... :roll: ... so to speed up cure I added a tent and halogen light for heat.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1479.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9468&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Awesome :salut: :salut:
4 layers of 1708 cloth is a 1/4" so it's going to be stout.
Have no idea how you're going to get the finished product off the mold. Are you going to use long wedges to pop it off? Or just destroy the mold?
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Awesome :salut: :salut:
4 layers of 1708 cloth is a 1/4" so it's going to be stout.
Have no idea how you're going to get the finished product off the mold. Are you going to use long wedges to pop it off? Or just destroy the mold?
The mold is made from two parts so I will unscrew them and wedge it apart. If that doesn't work then tear up the mold. It's a one off anyway. :cheers:
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You do fantastic work! One thing I'm trying to figure out...it looks like you prepped the form (primer. wax. etc.), then sprayed gel, then assembled it and made the clay radius, followed by the glass, etc. Why did you make the clay radius after the gel? Doesn't that mean the clay is sandwiched between the gel and the glass, becoming a permanent part of the product?
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You do fantastic work! One thing I'm trying to figure out...it looks like you prepped the form (primer. wax. etc.), then sprayed gel, then assembled it and made the clay radius, followed by the glass, etc. Why did you make the clay radius after the gel? Doesn't that mean the clay is sandwiched between the gel and the glass, becoming a permanent part of the product?
You are right placing clay after gel is not normal but to get gel on all areas of this mold would have been difficult when fully assembled. So I did it this way and will have to sand that corner, remove all the clay and re-gel. I have to glass in the cap anyway and will have multiple areas that need to be gelcoated and finished. I used plain gel is the mold and will use 50/50 gel and duratec additive for the finish spray coat for looks and durability.
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Gotcha :salut: . Thanks for the clarification!
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Well I felt like a 6 year old on Christmas morning with the unveiling of my transom cap. It came off pretty easily except for the gutters.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1481.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9470&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
To remove the gutter material I had to drill some 1/2" holes in one of the corners and chisel the MDF out. Once it got started it wasn't so bad.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1482.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9471&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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I love it. I am so happy with how it looks after months of planning and weeks of work.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1483.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9472&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1484.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9473&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Here is the gutter cleaned out of the live well lid. A little sanding of the gelcoat and it will look great.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1485.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9474&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Here she is in the boat. I have some trimming and fitting to do but she should look good.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1486.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9475&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Her sexy rear end!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1487.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9476&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Ya know, if someone just looked at those last photos and didn't know where all of this came from they might think, "ah so what"?
Following the thread, I have to say, "quite impressed" as to how this is coming along. I would guess you have just did it with some plywood and glassed it over but the mold is really a big step.
Gonna be a little heavier in the stern but that's one price for form with function. :thumright: :thumright:
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Very nice :cheers:
How much do you think it weighs? Did you hoist it into the boat yourself?
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Came out great! That beveled rear end is a great touch!
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Thanks guys....I agree family is just ho hum about it all. :roll:
I was able to pick it over my head and place it into place with some strain. Couldn't wait for anybody to get home. :mrgreen: It's Estimated weight is around 65-75lbs I couldn't imagine getting 100lbs over my head without struggling to get it into place. The form which it was made from was a lot heavier.
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That's pretty light - I would have guessed 150-200 with all that resin in there. Cool, not too heavy.
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Came out great! That beveled rear end is a great touch!
Thanks, I wanted to try and follow the factory lines as much as possible. I have seen a lot of these caps done on other boats and definitely knew what I was looking to accomplish. I wanted to have a subtle arch with clean crisp lines without having too much of a flat spot on top for live well.
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That's pretty light - I would have guessed 150-200 with all that resin in there. Cool, not too heavy.
I think if I would have followed the normal plywood base and multiple layers of glass it probably would have reached those weights. This was a perfect application of the nidacore with inserts of coosa where needed.
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Fish! That looks super! All the prep really payed off, very well executed. :salut:
As a side note, you did a really good job prepping that mold too. There was a good amount of complexity to it and you only had those few small areas that stuck. That is truly a feat in itself.
When i popped the bait well out i had the same situation, all joy for me and most everyone else was pretty much ho hum about it. I know what you did there, and you did it very well. :wink:
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Fish! That looks super! All the prep really payed off, very well executed. :salut:
As a side note, you did a really good job prepping that mold too. There was a good amount of complexity to it and you only had those few small areas that stuck. That is truly a feat in itself.
When i popped the bait well out i had the same situation, all joy for me and most everyone else was pretty much ho hum about it. I know what you did there, and you did it very well. :wink:
Thanks Carl I appreciate it.
I could have put a light taper to the gutters but man talk about more complexity. The sucker would have pulled off a lot easier but man I want to get thing done. I want to go fishing this year. :mrgreen:
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that is AWESOME!!!! love it!!!
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thanks Koz.
You must be gearing up for your rebuild soon as it's getting warmer?
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It's finally a human temp around here. I'm itching to pull the cover. Maybe in a month or so. I have a punch list to get through on my buddies Grady so he can launch by mid may and we can fish. I'm a bit tight on funds so I probably won't post much for another month or so. But, once I get started I will obsess and make good strides. I'm hoping to have something that floats by the fall.
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Florida196 was asking about filing in the transom cutout with glass and I had just did that same thing on my rebuild so here it goes. I had a lot of drop pieces of 8" wide 1708 so I laid in as many pieces that was needed to just about flush out with the existing fiberglass. Then using a straight edge as a guide I grinded all the excess glass of and got the transom pretty flat. After a huge pile of fiberglass I rolled on some high build duratec primer.The first picture shows a before then after.
Before
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1324.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8873&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
After
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1459.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9487&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
Then I will spread a generous layer of polyester filler and fair this baby out with a long sanding board.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/IMG_1487.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9476&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Looks awesome - did you mix your own polyester filler? Or buy a product made for that? I am close to doing that on my boat, but I'm not sure what to use for filling/fairing.
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Looks awesome - did you mix your own polyester filler? Or buy a product made for that? I am close to doing that on my boat, but I'm not sure what to use for filling/fairing.
Evercoat polyester glazing and putty mix. Purchased it at the fiberglass supplier I receive all my supplies at.
It is real smooth and feathers out real good. Only for light imperfections because it has no structural value.
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Looks great that's what I will try to accomplish on my hull. Thank you for the pics ur doing a great job.
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Looks awesome - did you mix your own polyester filler? Or buy a product made for that? I am close to doing that on my boat, but I'm not sure what to use for filling/fairing.
Evercoat polyester glazing and putty mix. Purchased it at the fiberglass supplier I receive all my supplies at.
It is real smooth and feathers out real good. Only for light imperfections because it has no structural value.
Thanks for the info!