Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Electrical => Topic started by: HIFLUTIN on May 22, 2012, 08:24:51 AM
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Any recomends on how to get true "Ground"" on the boat.
Thats the electrical ground
runnin up on a oyster bar doesn't work for me
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Well, it seems that you power source is used as the main point of grounding on our style boats. I have never seen the electrical gurus state otherwise and all the wiring shown seems to lead to that point (negative post). I come off that post to a ground distribution block and wire everything through that except the tank ground. SB4 seems to do it that way and I personally don't have any additional problems other than maybe a older connection going bad so.... :idea:
Grounding for lightning protection is a different story because you're goal is to channel it away from the boat where your on-board system is grounded within itself. Shore power may be totally different but SB can answer that one.
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HF,
It sounds like you are trying to duplicate the ground of an alternating current system whereas the ground REALLY is the ground! Remember, with AC, current travels from the source to the device, then into the ground, while with DC, current travels from the source to the device and back to the source. From the sound of your question, I don't think you can really accomplish what you want to do. The key with DC systems is to have good solid terminations throughout, as well as good quality wire/cable that is not corroded and has the ability to carry whatever current is demanded of it, with minimal voltage drops and minimal resistence...
As far as lightening protection goes, the most common practice is to bond all your deck hardware (rails, t/tops, etc.) with 8GA wire, then run the 8GA to a Dyna-plate installed on the hull bottom. Can't really say if this works or not, but it does provide a direct path to water. Not saying I want to find this out!!
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Hi Bob, not trying to derail this
Just have a question, in the case of electronics in the electronic box (Above the console)
Do you need to run a ground up to the electronics?
I have my head unit up there (for now,
still trying to deal with Dons Salvage)
It asks for a ground as well as pos and neg for the connection
Just want to be clear
Thanks Bryan
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Bryan
Easiest way on the E-Box is to install a POS and NEG Bus (Strip) up in the box. NEG goes down into your console to whichever ground bus you have, and the POS could go to a switch on your console to control power to the E-BOX or directly to a fused POS source. Once the busses are up there in the E-Box you have POS and NEG for everything you want to add, and nice short runs. I would probably use AWG 10 up to the Box for the Neg and Pos busses.
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Yes that is what I have now
I was just worried about the actual ground not the neg
Thanks much for the reply
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I have seen guys run a grounding wire of some sort from the side of a Jack-plate to somewehere? not sure what it was for?
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Bryan,
Some equipment (Furuno comes to mind) have external ground posts on the outside of the housing...basically a "chassis" ground. This goes to the ground buss as well...
HF,
Yes, I've seen grounds run from jack plates, also I've seen grounds run from steering cylinders. In fact, Teleflex sells a ground strap particularly for this reason. In theory, all the external parts connected to the engine should achieve a ground path through the engine, ultimately the zinc. But here in west central Florida, it seems jack plates and cylinders can suffer some abnormal electrolysis effects, and I'm not sure of the reason why. If all is installed properly, the engine zincs should absorb all the ill effects, sacrificing themselves for the betterment of the other components. But at times, the components themselves are being sacrificed rather than the zincs. Really doesn't make sense from an electrical standpoint, but it happens. I mean, why would Teleflex develop a part if it wasn't occurring?...http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... ?pid=63771 (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=63771)
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I have seen guys run a grounding wire of some sort from the side of a Jack-plate to somewehere? not sure what it was for?
All external components like the mid-section, Tilt Trim Unit, etc... on an outboard usually have bonding wires, these are all connected to the engine block, which is connected to the NEG (or ground) of the battery system. This helps to prevent electrolysis from destroying the metallic parts in the water. I assume when adding a jack plate, the same holds true, since its metallic, it should be connected to the engine's bonding to ground also.
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Paint gets in the way... :lol: :lol:
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Bob funny you should post that about the Teleflex grounding strap. I was just reading an article on hydraulice steering maintenance and they mentioned that strap.... hmm mine does not have one of those!
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Bruce, you can make your own out of 10 or 8GA wire.
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Bryan,
I mean, why would Teleflex develop a part if it wasn't occurring?...http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... ?pid=63771 (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=63771)
You hit that right on the nose.
I don't know why I didn't realized this before but when I bought the WAC, the steering was rather hard in one direction. Turned out that the bracket was "frozen" on the shaft causing the streering to bind. Shaft = stainless, bracket = aluminum. Probably not such a bad idea at all. :idea:
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In theory, all the external parts connected to the engine should achieve a ground path through the engine, ultimately the zinc. But here in west central Florida, it seems jack plates and cylinders can suffer some abnormal electrolysis effects, and I'm not sure of the reason why. If all is installed properly, the engine zincs should absorb all the ill effects, sacrificing themselves for the betterment of the other components. But at times, the components themselves are being sacrificed rather than the zincs. Really doesn't make sense from an electrical standpoint, but it happens. I mean, why would Teleflex develop a part if it wasn't occurring?...http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... ?pid=63771 (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=63771)
If you have a bronze pickup for raw water is there anything wrong with connecting grounds to this? I know my pickup has a ground wire to it.
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If you have a bronze pickup for raw water is there anything wrong with connecting grounds to this? I know my pickup has a ground wire to it.
I would think that sure, you could connect grounds to the bronze thru hull but I believe the primary purpose of "bonding" the thru hull is to again guard against galvanic corrosion of the parts that could result in eventual failure (think sinking). Those bonding wires all should terminate back at the ground, either the buss or battery negative post with the latter being probably the best point of connection but again, I'll defer to a higher authority on this.
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Bryan,
Some equipment (Furuno comes to mind) have external ground posts on the outside of the housing...basically a "chassis" ground. This goes to the ground buss as well...
HF,
Yes, I've seen grounds run from jack plates, also I've seen grounds run from steering cylinders. In fact, Teleflex sells a ground strap particularly for this reason. In theory, all the external parts connected to the engine should achieve a ground path through the engine, ultimately the zinc. But here in west central Florida, it seems jack plates and cylinders can suffer some abnormal electrolysis effects, and I'm not sure of the reason why. If all is installed properly, the engine zincs should absorb all the ill effects, sacrificing themselves for the betterment of the other components. But at times, the components themselves are being sacrificed rather than the zincs. Really doesn't make sense from an electrical standpoint, but it happens. I mean, why would Teleflex develop a part if it wasn't occurring?...http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... ?pid=63771 (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=63771)
When my boat was rewired that grounding strap was added on.
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If you have a bronze pickup for raw water is there anything wrong with connecting grounds to this? I know my pickup has a ground wire to it.
I would think that sure, you could connect grounds to the bronze thru hull but I believe the primary purpose of "bonding" the thru hull is to again guard against galvanic corrosion of the parts that could result in eventual failure (think sinking). Those bonding wires all should terminate back at the ground, either the buss or battery negative post with the latter being probably the best point of connection but again, I'll defer to a higher authority on this.
Bob, you are absolutely correct. Although, if you are reasonably certain of the integrity of your boats electrical system, terminating at the ground bus is fine. I like to keep battery terminals with the minimum of terminations on them. And remember, per ABYC, no more than 4 terminations on any battery post. Speaking of ABYC, Section E-11, AC and DC systems for boats, is now available in PDF form directly from ABYC, http://www.abycinc.org/committees/.%5CE-11.pdf (http://www.abycinc.org/committees/.%5CE-11.pdf). It is a bit old (2003), as E-11 was updated in '08 and will be again in '13. But basically the changes have been extremely minor, so the one from '03 is an excellent guide to follow. Boring reading, but all the good stuff is in there...
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So I should run a ground wire from my jackplate to "what" on my Outboard?
I plan on keeping the boat in the water & have know that West FL effect
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So I should run a ground wire from my jackplate to "what" on my Outboard?
I plan on keeping the boat in the water & have know that West FL effect
HF,
You either run it to the ground bus in the stern (if you don't want to mess with engine rigging), or, if it's relatively easy, terminate where the negative cable terminates on your powerhead...