Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Paints, topsides and bottom and Gelcoat Topics => Topic started by: love2fish on February 07, 2012, 09:10:43 AM
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Been looking/reading about paints lately. Leaning towards Awlgrip. I'm starting with my original 74, 22-2 that only needs minor sratches/scrapes repaired. Would:
Awlgrip 545 Epoxy Primer and then Awlgrip Topcoat be OK... I'm confused I guess with the use of an epoxy primer and then what I'm reading as a polyester topcoat compatibilty. (or am I overthinking it)?
Basically: Is there a problem with the original finish (which is gelcoat right?) bonding with the epoxy primer and then going back to a Poly topcoat?
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Basically: Is there a problem with the original finish (which is gelcoat right?) bonding with the epoxy primer and then going back to a Poly topcoat?
Its my understanding that Epoxy will bond to Poly with no problems. But Poly WILL NOT bond to epoxy. To be be on the safe side I'd stick with the same type of paint/resin the whole way through.
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Ok, thats what I was thinking, so I didnt see an epoxy topcoat or a poly primer offered from Awlgrip... Am I missing something..
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Most Awlgrip topcoat systems are a polyester based polyurethane. After finish sanding the 545 primer with 400 grit, there should be no problem with adhesion. Follow their directions on the awlgrip website and you shouldn't have any problems.
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Most Awlgrip topcoat systems are a polyester based polyurethane. After finish sanding the 545 primer with 400 grit, there should be no problem with adhesion. Follow their directions on the awlgrip website and you shouldn't have any problems.
If you need more questions answered give Awlgrip a call, they are always very helpful. Are you still leaning towards blue for the exterior?
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Sent Awlgrip a question on their website. Thanks for the feedback everyone. Blue- Still 50-50 on the blue... your advice/experience with yours has me rethinking to a lighter color.
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Sweet, just got an email reply from Awlgrip. Here's what they said:
Chris:
You actually have two choices, either 545 Primer, or AwlQuik. Please see TDS for each. Each has its benefits as well as draw-backs.
545 delivers a more durable paint system, but is not really friendly towards brush application. It also tends to be difficult to sand if it cures too long.
AwlQuik was developed as the option for brush-and-roll applications. It delivers a thicker film build per coat in order togive you the thicker film build necessary in these types of applications, with reduced risk of sanding through. Its main draw-back is that is that since it is a softer primer initially, it will not deliver as durable a system.
Kind Regards,
Ted Behrhorst
Product and Technical Services
AWLGRIP North America
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Sent Awlgrip a question on their website. Thanks for the feedback everyone. Blue- Still 50-50 on the blue... your advice/experience with yours has me rethinking to a lighter color.
Chris, as you know mine is blue in color and when I did the rebuild I wanted my girl to be the nicest rebuild around and the blue looks awesome. But ultimately I'm a fisherman and my girl gets fished hard and all the little scrapes and scratches really show on the blue. If I had to do it over again I would seriously consider a shade of white, as I mentioned to you before I really like Awlgrip Oyster White. If I can help in any way don't hesitate to ask.
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I used 545 then awlgrip both inside and out, it shines like no other but I seem to be forever chipping it and touching it up. If I had it to do again I would do the outside with the same awlgrip then the inside with many coats of thick gelcoat.
Capt Matt
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Blue- Thanks very much! I need to make it down the street 1 day to see your boat close up.
I appriciate the first hand experience Matt, and got a lot of info from your rebuild. I think i'm going to leave my interior the original color and just add Kiwi non-skid on the cap and floors once I redo them (later this summer probably).
Matt- did you spray or roll your Awlgrip?
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If your looking for durability against scratches go with gelcoat. You can get a fantastic new boat finish with gelcoat if done correctly. There are drawbacks to gel and paint, I'd figure out how the boat will be used and go from there.
Paint pros: Very little maintenance required, wash after using, wax yearly. Modern paints should last 10yrs before recoating.
Paint cons: Repairability, easily chips or scratches, not as easily recoated.
Gelcoat pros: More durable than paint, won't easily chip, easily repairable, more forgiving in application.
Gelcoat cons: Needs more maintenance, wax twice a year minimum,keep polished.
I did my entire 222 exterior in gelcoat, I'll do the interior in gel once the time comes. There is little difference between gelcoat and paint prep wise, gelcoat can be a lot more forgiving because of the coating thickness and the fact that you wetsand and buff it out. Your talking 20-30mil thickness for gelcoat, and 7-10mil for paint. Thats a lot of error that you can sand through to get correct. It also means that the coating will last a long time 30+yrs.
If your set on paint I'd go with something that can be wetsanded and buffed out. Awlgrip cant, makes repairs a pain and makes repairs for runs, drips, sags, impossible without recoating.
Check out alexseal or imron. Both are very well regarded in the marine industry and I think would be a better choice overall.
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Slippery73 makes excellent points, although I would recommend that any paint job be waxed every six months. Especially if it is used frequently. Also, Awlgrip most certainly can be buffed. Before you do, make sure and call Awlgrip support and discuss buffing with them.
Before buffing.......
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h437/fbueno2/buff1.jpg)
After buffing......
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h437/fbueno2/buff2.jpg)
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ive only got about 6 months on my awlgrip, so far, no scratches. and my boats painted fairly dark... seems to be pretty durable... it helps that i keep my boat inside at my work...
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I sprayed the awlgrip
Capt Matt
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Slippery73 makes excellent points, although I would recommend that any paint job be waxed every six months. Especially if it is used frequently. Also, Awlgrip most certainly can be buffed. Before you do, make sure and call Awlgrip support and discuss buffing with them.
Before buffing.......
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h437/fbueno2/buff1.jpg)
After buffing......
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h437/fbueno2/buff2.jpg)
You can buff awlgrip, you just can't wetsand it. Since almost any repair needs to be sanded to blend it in.... it makes a big problem for repairs. Especially for the novice.
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A few small chips in my awlgrip I simply touched up with a artist's brush, not perfect but I'm the only one that will ever know
Capt Matt
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I am considering painting my boat also. I found some coating called 9400 series by RustOleum
it is a polyester urathane 2part. I did not find much difference in the spec sheets. It is acid resistance.impact. seem like good stuff. Only thinking gelcoat would fill all the bangs an marks in it .
Been looking/reading about paints lately. Leaning towards Awlgrip. I'm starting with my original 74, 22-2 that only needs minor sratches/scrapes repaired. Would:
Awlgrip 545 Epoxy Primer and then Awlgrip Topcoat be OK... I'm confused I guess with the use of an epoxy primer and then what I'm reading as a polyester topcoat compatibilty. (or am I overthinking it)?
Basically: Is there a problem with the original finish (which is gelcoat right?) bonding with the epoxy primer and then going back to a Poly topcoat?
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Trevor,
One of the depts I manage is a paint dept,the specs on that paint look good,but the application is all on different types of steel,which is not as flexible as gelcoat.I would call rustoleums tech support,they may be able to give you more info.I have found that most of those "industrial coatings" are made to meet gov specs for a specific purpose and are over kill for most applications.Bottom line is that it may work or it may dry to hard and be brittle.I would stick to a coating designed for your application to be sure it will perform as expected.Good luck :cheers:
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Sounds good. When i spoke to them i did not think about flexiblity. Usual dry time explains flexiblty. Faster the more abrasion the slower more flexible. Does a hull flex alot.
Trevor,
One of the depts I manage is a paint dept,the specs on that paint look good,but the application is all on different types of steel,which is not as flexible as gelcoat.I would call rustoleums tech support,they may be able to give you more info.I have found that most of those "industrial coatings" are made to meet gov specs for a specific purpose and are over kill for most applications.Bottom line is that it may work or it may dry to hard and be brittle.I would stick to a coating designed for your application to be sure it will perform as expected.Good luck :cheers:
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I would recommend Awlcraft 2000 for spraying. You can fix repairs in Awlcraft very easy. Awlgrip is much harder to blend in repairs.
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I used Awlcraft 2000. It is allot easier to blend in repairs.
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For single part flexible paint Epifanes is absolutely top notch. When applied all wrong ie, in full sun over rough sanding with an RO sander with 100 grit, (no tac rag just had at it with a 2" foam brush) to a fiberglass canoe it looked great... That was five years ago and where it has not been dragged over the rocks still looks great and I have done nothing but beat on it...
Epifanes two part poly is supposed to be damn near bullet proof ans as easy to apply according to guys I know who have used it on wood boats.. I have not used the two part yet because I don't have a need but it might fit your purpose.. They are on line at http://Http://www.epifanes.com..