Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 196 Rebuilds => Topic started by: gman 82 aquasport on February 02, 2012, 10:51:11 AM
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Rebuilding an 82 19-6 C/C and have done away with the wiring chase. I am installing a 3" tube for wires and controls(Johnson 150 outboard) and a 2" tube for hydraulic steering and fuel lines. What is the best way to get the control lines thru the tube, put them thru as the pipe is being installed ,4 bends (45's).From just looking at the cables the only way I can see installing them is to slide them thru each section and each bend seperatly then glue the sections together.. Is there a way to pull them thru the entire pipe at one time bends and all...Any info would be appreciated..Thanks, Garry
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Go ahead and glue them up in place and get you one of these. I got one and I like it because it is thin and the plastic material doesn't stick on anything. It makes it easy when you pull. Just use duct tape to attach the ends of what you are pulling. It is also long enough that when you pull stuff you don't pull the whole thing through and have to re-feed it back through.
http://www.harborfreight.com/50-ft-nylo ... 66505.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/50-ft-nylon-fish-tape-66505.html)
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So the cables will go thru bends in the pipes OK.. My concern is the ends of the cables on the motor end have about 6-8 inches of not very flexible plastic and metal.
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What are the other ends like? Maybe pull those the other direction from motor end to binnacle.
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They'll be fine just feeding them through by themselves, don't even need a pull wire. When the ends reach the bends, if they stop, just pull back and then push again, they'll negotiate the bends...
My "snake" is an old shift cable... :thumleft: :thumleft:
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What are the other ends like? Maybe pull those the other direction from motor end to binnacle.
Yes, definitely from the other end. Pull from stern to helm.
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Thanks for the input. The cables are still attached to the binnicle shifter now, so I will just take them loose from there and push/pull them from stern to console then hook back up when the time comes. The exit of the tubes will be on the starboard side panel at stern about 10-12 inches off the floor both pipes will exit side by side. There will a slight downturn to the pipe at exit to keep as much water out as possible.
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Sounds like a plan! We need pictures!!!!!!! :D :D :D :D :D :D
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Gary,
If you have universal cables like those used on Yam, Zuke, you'll be alright going from helm to the motor. But if you have a Merc or OMC with type-specific cables, you DEFINITELY want to go from stern to helm...
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Not sure of type cables, it's a Johnson OB so I assume they are OMC but not sure..I will take a pic or 2 of the ends in the morning when i get off duty and post later in the day...till then thanks :pirat:
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Johnson/Evinrude type 479 cables have a big adjustment wheel at the engine end. Not something I would want to be negotiating 45s in a rigging tube...
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Those are what I have so it looks like I will disconnect them from the binnicle and run them from the stern. It will be a little while till that day as I am right in the middle of the floor job.. Thanks for the heads-up
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These are my cables
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild2-4-2012007.jpg)
that is the motor end. Does anyone make a cable that works with a Johnson that does not have the big turnwheel on it, this is all foriegn territory for me.If no one makes an aftermarket cable without the turnwheel that works, I will find a way to get the existing cables thru the tube! :pirat:
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Are you not able to "un-screw" the adjustment dials off the throttle/shift cables?
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Not sure, I will check to see next day I'm home before dark? If thats possible, it would make getting them thru a 3in tube a lot easier...
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Are you not able to "un-screw" the adjustment dials off the throttle/shift cables?
No, the ends are swaged on...
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This sounds all too familiar to me! Haha. Everybody on here gave me awesome tips to pull all of the wires through. I just finished rigging mine with an old metal plumbing snake that was broken off at one end. It just took a lot of dawn dishwashing liquid, duct tape, baling twine, a ton of pushing & pulling over and over to channel all of the wires into the right spot, probably about 20 hours of work, and tons of persistence. Not a fun process at all, but worth it in the end. Always remember to go large to small! I did the throttle & shift cables first because of the large ends on them. Rigging tubes fill up fast with battery cables, oil lines, wiring harnesses, and steering cables. Good luck shoving everything through!
-Ben
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Hopefully won't be to bad since I will use 2 tubes ,1 2in and 1 3in. the 2in will have the steering lines and the fuel line and possibly the throttle and shift cables, the 3in will have all the wiring, battery cables to engine wiring to lights and transducer .I will pull anything with a head or large end first and will probably stagger pull most..Thats what we call it when we pull more than 4 or 5 at a time and stagger the ends so they aren't all together..Usually stagger them 3-4 inches so you don't have a big bulge of wires.
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Hopefully won't be to bad since I will use 2 tubes ,1 2in and 1 3in. the 2in will have the steering lines and the fuel line and possibly the throttle and shift cables, the 3in will have all the wiring, battery cables to engine wiring to lights and transducer .I will pull anything with a head or large end first and will probably stagger pull most..Thats what we call it when we pull more than 4 or 5 at a time and stagger the ends so they aren't all together..Usually stagger them 3-4 inches so you don't have a big bulge of wires.
Exactly the way to do it. You can pull everything in one shot... :cheers:
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Hopefully won't be to bad since I will use 2 tubes ,1 2in and 1 3in. the 2in will have the steering lines and the fuel line and possibly the throttle and shift cables, the 3in will have all the wiring, battery cables to engine wiring to lights and transducer .I will pull anything with a head or large end first and will probably stagger pull most..Thats what we call it when we pull more than 4 or 5 at a time and stagger the ends so they aren't all together..Usually stagger them 3-4 inches so you don't have a big bulge of wires.
You should run the transducer cable in the tube with the steering and fuel lines.
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Pulling stuff thru the rigging tubes is challanging but getting the control cables thru the engine rigging hose without pulling everything out is an adventure all its own. Especially alone.
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Pulling stuff thru the rigging tubes is challanging but getting the control cables thru the engine rigging hose without pulling everything out is an adventure all its own. Especially alone.
Oh yeah... :shock:
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Transducer cable running with the fuel and steering lines is a great idea, more room...I am seriously starting to look at running the control cables by themselves under the floor, I have a storage box being built under the floor under the seat so I will have access to the area , I believe that I can manuver the lines thru a cutout in the ends of the compartment and turn them up under the console (access port in floor) and then turn the stern end up starboard side of the motor thru the floor....For sealing them from water intrusion, my idea is this, where they come thru the floor(both ends) put them in a 2in piece of pipe about 3 inches long sealed to the floor. Then take a cv joint repair boot (rubber) and glue the overlaps together and put a clamp on the pipe end thus sealing it, then put a clamp on the small end where cables come thru and tighten.. My thought is if the boots work to keep grease in they should work to keep water out. plus they are easy to check on and replace if nessasary. Sound reasonable?
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Got my rigging tubes in. I am planning on the fuel,hydraulic steering, transducer going in the 2inch and the cables, wiring harness and control cables going thru the 3 inch..I am planning on trying to push/pull the control cables thru tommorrow to see if they will go. If they won't I plan on putting them thru the pieces of pipe separatly then glueing the pipe together..if they ever need replacing I am leaving a chase under the floor thru my storage area and thru the tank bulkhead to run replacements..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-8thru2-21006.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-8thru2-21007.jpg)
upper piece of 3 inch 90 degree elbow thats between the hull and bulkhead has a 2 in opening in it to pull the wires for the nav lights and courtesy lights and bilge pump out the top so it will be easy to run them out the gunnel and into the bilge..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-8thru2-21008.jpg)