Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Trailers => Topic started by: T Race on January 21, 2012, 06:49:15 PM
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Recently, upon pre-departure check of my trailer lights, I noticed the right turn indicator was blinking weakly as I activated the left turn
indicator, which was blinking normally.
I then activated the right turn indicator and the left light also blinked weakly as the right blinked with normal brightness.
What are some likely causes/remedies. I have a multi-meter and a continuity tester, but would like your thoughts on the best angle of
attack. Thanks a bunch, T
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do you have lights with bulbs? Or LED lights? If you have bulbs check to see if one of the bulbs in the socket crooked so the contacts are shorted. Another problem could be the tow vehicle if it has turn amber signals that are separate of of the brake lights. Those vehicles require a diode in the circuit to prevent the turn signals back feeding into the brake lights.
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Check the trailer ground.
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Check the trailer ground.
:thumright:
1-bad ground
2-It's probably a bad ground.
3-did you check the ground?
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I think you have a bad ground somewhere.
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Check the trailer ground.
Ground, ground, ground....
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Check the trailer ground.
^^^^^^^^
Hope you guys know what that means (Scott does)...
12V is simply a path to the device from the battery to the device (positive side), and a path from the device back to the battery (negative side). If a ground is defective, the electricity starts to look for ANY path back to the battery, even on the positive side. That explains other lights functioning as ground is looking for a way back to home...
99.9% of trailer lighting problems are ground related...
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Hey guys,
Thanks for the replies and all the good perspectives...
...huh, I'm surprised nobody mentioned the ground..... :wink:
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Hey guys,
Thanks for the replies and all the good perspectives...
...huh, I'm surprised nobody mentioned the ground..... :wink:
To steal from Fernando again...that's some funny chit right there! :salut: :salut:
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you need to be grounded :D
I run all my grounds off my truck now not the trailer, no problems since.
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you need to be grounded :D
I run all my grounds off my truck now not the trailer, no problems since.
Where, exactly, does it connect to your truck? Do you have some type of quick disconnect plug? If so, what's the plug look like?
Thanks, T
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you need to be grounded :D
I run all my grounds off my truck now not the trailer, no problems since.
Where, exactly, does it connect to your truck? Do you have some type of quick disconnect plug? If so, what's the plug look like?
Thanks, T
Hey T,
If your truck came pre wired for trailer lights from the factory the ground is incorporated in the trailering harness and you usually will have a 7 pin connector that you plug your trailer lights from the trailer into. It will adapt your four wire light plug into the 7 pin plug; usually under the bumper in the form of a receptacle. If you need to check for ground in your factory trailer harness, connect a test light to the + 12V source and find the ground in your harness receptacle. The light will light up when you find the ground. If your truck was not pre wired then what you can do is drill a hole in the truck frame in a location where you can connect the white wire coming from your trailer harness female plug on the truck side and ground directly to the truck frame. On the trailer side drill and tap the trailer tongue for a 1/4-20 stainless screw and connect the white wire from your trailer side male connector via a ring terminal to the trailer. This will make a direct ground connection between the truck frame and the trailer and remove the ball and coupler from being the primary ground source between the trailer and truck. This should cure the light fade or your trailer running lights going out when you hit the brakes. Also check the ground connections on your trailer lights especially if they are submersible and subject to corrosion.
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To eliminate any problems with grounds, I only use this type of harness http://www.iboats.com/Seasense-Fully-Gr ... w_id.56639 (http://www.iboats.com/Seasense-Fully-Grounded-Wire-Harness/dm/cart_id.150869244--session_id.651040370--view_id.56639). It has the white (ground) wire that runs the full length of the harness all the way down both sides of the trailer to each light, then you can connect it directly to the light receptacles negative ground wire, or mount bolt which is sometimes the light fixture's ground point, but the full grounds down each side eliminates the trailer frame being used for ground, and gets the ground circuit all the way back to the connector and to the trucks ground circuit. Also, LED light are worth every penny of the initial purchase expense over conventional, totally sealed, wire them, seal the bullet connectors and you'll never have another light problem.
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T, Marc is spot on, that's basically what I have, i have seen some guys mount a ground bus on the front of the trailer then run all the grounds from the lights up to that, the ground from the harness goes to that bus to ground it, just another way to do it, just don't use the trailer frame as a ground.
It also helps to keep the lights out of the water like on your trailer guide posts if you have them.
I have Leds that i got at Harbor Freight, the price was right and after 2 years no problems yet.
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Scott and Mark,
Thank you, my brothers. I like both of your ideas: that 00 Fancy wiring harness AND the Harbor Freigt LED lights.
Here is what I am going to do. For the learning experience, I am going to fix what I have right now.
Meanwhile, Mr. UPS will be bringing me the harness and I will go down to HF and get the LED lights.
After I re-wire the trailer I will be hunting in deep clover.
Comment: Scott, this truck is a 2006 4x4 with tow package, and has the 7 pin under the bumper, just like you said.
Question: Mark, this harness, how many pins does it have... will my 4 pin adapter that I have still work, or do I need to get some
other type?
Thanks again guys for helping to get me a little more squared away. Best wishes, T
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Remember you can't use a 4 pin hookup with surge-type disc brakes! Discs require a check valve installed connected to the backup lights, so the brakes will not be activated when you are backing up. Drums don't work in reverse, but discs will, and you can damage the system by backing up without having the check valve activated.
You need a 5 pin flat plug if you have discs, not a 4 pin flat plug. The color coding for the backup/surge valve wire is purple. The 5th pin/purple wire is connected to the backup lights - I think that is the center pin on the round 7-pin connector. Don't use a 6-pin plug/connector unless you have electric brakes.
Nice trailer wiring diagram on this site:
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx (http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx)
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Or you could go this route using the wiring option of your choice from above. Gets the lights out of the water and comes with the upper caps.
I just bought a pair and thought about using a 100 ft outdoor electrical cord cut to length and soldered/heat-shrunk in where it needed connections. Day did this on his 250 EXP and it looks stout. Don't know if he used a 3 or 4 wire cord though. I have to search for a license plate holder that will allow vertical mounting though with light ( I know, I should be able to turn any of then vertical but I hate losing plates and I hate the plate scratching the side of my boat even worse.)
http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Pipe-L ... _p_13.html (http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Pipe-Lights-LED-PVC-PAIR-for-Boat-Trailer_p_13.html)
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Scott and Mark,
Thank you, my brothers. I like both of your ideas: that 00 Fancy wiring harness AND the Harbor Freigt LED lights.
Here is what I am going to do. For the learning experience, I am going to fix what I have right now.
Meanwhile, Mr. UPS will be bringing me the harness and I will go down to HF and get the LED lights.
After I re-wire the trailer I will be hunting in deep clover.
Comment: Scott, this truck is a 2006 4x4 with tow package, and has the 7 pin under the
bumper, just like you said.
Question: Mark, this harness, how many pins does it have... will my 4 pin adapter that I have still work, or do I need to get some
other type?
Thanks again guys for helping to get me a little more squared away. Best wishes, T
T,
Regular 4 flat just like you probably have now, unless as mentioned you have the disc brake disable actuator, but they probably make that one also, the main thing again as mentioned is to get dedicated grounds to each light fixture.
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Ooops,
I misspoke. I have surge disk brakes and it is a 5 pin adapter. Small matter, I'll find any adapter I need.
Rick, I have thought about that "dry" solution. My guides are not tight enough right now; I think these sealed LEDs are right for me,
plus my bud has them and he has had no issues.
thanks everybody :salut: :sunny: :drunken: :drunken:
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T can't wait to hear how it all works out :salut:
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Can't beat the pipe lights Rick mentioned if you have the side guides to install them on. I have had a set since they came out. I made all the splices up top inside the light housing and have a continuous run of wire all the way to the plug splices. If you protect the wire from chafing they should last a lifetime. If you have tall side guides just remember that Federal DOT regs specify a maximum height of trailer lights of 72". Most cops will not know the difference but...
Side note. Some folks recommend removable lights to avoid the corrosion issue but the DOT regulations also state that they must be permanently mounted.
DOT trailer lighting regs are here:
http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/standar ... rpstr.html (http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/standards/conspicuity/trlrpstr.html)
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IMO removable lights are too much trouble. I've seen them still attached to the boat after launch, I've see 25 ft. of pigtail being hauled down the road behind the trailer, and best of all I've seen them still in the tow vehicle after towing the trailer home. For me the best lights on the market are a submersible light made by a company called "Dry Launch". Install them and forget about them. :thumright:
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Can't beat the pipe lights Rick mentioned if you have the side guides to install them on. I have had a set since they came out. I made all the splices up top inside the light housing and have a continuous run of wire all the way to the plug splices. If you protect the wire from chafing they should last a lifetime. If you have tall side guides just remember that Federal DOT regs specify a maximum height of trailer lights of 72". Most cops will not know the difference but...
I wondered if there was a max height - the sides of my 230 are that high while on the trailer
Side note. Some folks recommend removable lights to avoid the corrosion issue but the DOT regulations also state that they must be permanently mounted.
Didn't know this - I've been using a removeable light rig/tiedown strap on the 170 for about 10 years with nary a problem with the lights. Undo the strap at the ramp, wrap up wire and place all under my truck tonneau. Had a guide laugh at it one day - still no problems, wonder how many he's had with his submersibles?
DOT trailer lighting regs are here:
http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/standar ... rpstr.html (http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/standards/conspicuity/trlrpstr.html)
Thanks JJ.
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:thumright:
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T can't wait to hear how it all works out :salut:
You bet, Scott. I'm gonna spend " a " whole day on this and a couple other electo projects:
1) replace the aft fuse block
2) emplace new trailer lights and new harness
3) add Bob's spreader light (looks well-built mates !) and a couple of red LED light strips up in the hard-top illuminating the console
I just have to make time to schedule " a " whole day...... :wink:
Thanks for the interest, I will shoot some photos while I work and post them on this thread in a couple weeks.