Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 22-2 Rebuilds => Topic started by: 305kingfisher1954 on January 07, 2012, 12:32:46 PM
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Just picked up an 1987 222 Osprey..I think it's an Osprey anyway. The reason why I'm not 100% sure is the specs on the 87 Osprey say it has a 12 degree deadrise. Would that be the angle at the transom ? If so, it has exactly 2 1/2 inches angle rise, pitch in 12 inches and I'm coming up with 18 degree deadrise if that is how you determine the deadrise. I know there are many experts on this site that will know.
The hull seem to be in pretty good shape. The deck, transom and cap will has wet, rotten wood and I plan on replacing. I'm not sure about the stringers until I get the deck off obviously. I have not done much fiberglass work, I am a carpenter by trade, but just need some guidance as to what materials to use. I want to replace everything with 'wood free" materials. I am going with a "cut out" type transom as opposed to the"porta bracket" with built in storage/access on each side of the transom cut out. Appriciate help with materials to use..
Let me see if I can follow the Rigging Masters instructions on how to post photos on this site..(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/ebay001.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/ebay002.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/ebay004.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/ebay005.jpg)
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Definitely an Osprey. The ccp has a different cap and the deck is all one level. In the picture, where your deck changes levels,there looks like some patch work ( black ) at the joint area. That may be something minor or could be something more serious. You should find out when you remove the deck. Don't see too many that were set up with twins. Good luck with the rebuild. It's a great boat even if they were cutting some cornors in 87.
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Definitely an Osprey.
Yes indeed. (Happy New Year Keith :cheers: )
http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... 574/page/1 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/2861/sort/1/cat/574/page/1)
As far as the math goes.
.21 /1 = tan of dead rise angle (your measurements)
tan of 12 degrees = .213
Close enough for government work. :wink:
Good luck and post your rebuild pics.
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Thanks for that information and the Aquasport link for that model..very nice.
Hope to get started soon, cutting the floor out, seeing what I have and then start on the transom..
I was thinking about pouring the transom with Arjay 6011...I saw where Kedd used this on his rebuild. Anyone have any experience with this product ..He said he used 27 1/2 gallons on his transom. The manufacturers specs say it weighs about 7.1 lbs per gallons, so the new transom would weigh about 200lbs...Just want to watch the weight, I'm probably going to power her with a Yamaha 200hp Four Stroke @ 583lbs. Thanks for the help guys.
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There has been much discussion, poured transoms vs. a tear-down. Much of it has to do with the condition of the balance of the hull.
Poured transom positives: Quick, easy, stable. Cut the top off with a Skilsaw...dig out the mung with a chainsaw...dig out what is left at the base, let dry.....thoroughly..then pour.
Minuses: Weight. And always the question...did we get a good bond at the very bottom, where it was really wet?
Coosa transom:
Leave on the original outer transom glass skin always...unless impossible. Keeps the original shape/dimensions intact. Build to it with the Coosa board...most rebuilders have used two 3/4 inch sheets.
Not recommending one method vs. the other. Let your individual situation be the guide. If its a complete strip...starting with a fiberglass hull skin...go with the Coosa.
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You probably should consider cost as well. All our transoms at Proline were Coosa Bluewater 26, and at around $360 for a 4 X 8 3/4" sheet, a bit more cost effective than poured, and, since you are going to retain the current design, 1 sheet may do you...
What Kieth pointed out, appears the knees cracked in the radii, in theory one would want to back-glass those cracks before repairing the topsides properly, but to get in there to back-glass...??
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Here's a little more on the dead rise topic.
viewtopic.php?p=19049#p19049 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?p=19049#p19049)
The Resource forum, though small in quantity is large in quality and as always.....
Is your friend. :mrgreen:
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Good advice on the transom, Thanks..On the poured transom, I was going to close the transom up as much as possible to accomodate a single outbord, the cut out is very wide..it had twin OB's on it. I was thinking I would leave the outside skin and cut out the inside skin and form it. I'll have access to the outside skin to clean it up for a good bond. If I use the Coosa, do I have to vacuum this procedure? Do you just apply resin between the Coosa when laminating and bonding to the outer skin ? Any idea how much 1 - 3/4 x 4 x 8 sheet of Coosa weighs ?
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Good advice on the transom, Thanks..On the poured transom, I was going to close the transom up as much as possible to accomodate a single outbord, the cut out is very wide..it had twin OB's on it. I was thinking I would leave the outside skin and cut out the inside skin and form it. I'll have access to the outside skin to clean it up for a good bond. If I use the Coosa, do I have to vacuum this procedure? Do you just apply resin between the Coosa when laminating and bonding to the outer skin ? Any idea how much 1 - 3/4 x 4 x 8 sheet of Coosa weighs ?
52 pounds. We used to vacuum-bag at PL, but it's not necessary. Glass the 2 panels together, then, if you have the equipment, chop the 2 bonding sides, if not, I'd use a layer of 2415 on both sides.
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Thanks RM..I think since I'm changing the configuration of the transom the Coosa is the way to go..and less weight too..Chopping ? Does that mean roughing up the 2 sufaces to be bonded for a better bond?
I better start working on a material list.,.what would you use on the deck, besides marine plywood..coosa as well?
The casting deck is soft, so I will be cutting that out removing all the wood ..What material should I use to replace the wood ?
I'm in the Florida keys, would you know the best supplier to order materials from ?
Thanks again !!
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"Chopping" means spraying both sides with a mixture of chopped glass (random strands of glass) and resin. Need a chopper gun to do this (reason I asked about equipment). You could also take chop and mix it with resin in a cup, then brush it on...
CompositesOne is who I'd contact for materials, I believe they have a distribution center in Miami...
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Thanks again RM..Just one more request..then I'll be good for a while..What materials would you use for the deck, coosa. nida core or divincell..as you and Keith pointed pout earlier the knees are cracked in the casting deck, I plan to cut the entire deck out and turn over and repair and gain access to the backside like that..what would you use to repair the underside of the casting deck after I remove all the wood?
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305king,
I'll let the building experts tell you that. You want the boat fully rigged, motor to upper station and anything electrical you can think of? I'll do that for you... :thumright: :thumright:
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understood...ty
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Nothing but coosa
Capt Matt
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Decided to start removing the fuel tank and deck this weekend..The fuel tank is dirty but seems to be in good shape, no corrosion on the bottom...The sending unit access needs to be woked on a little.Should I re use the existing tank or replace it since it is 25 yrs old...I am not going to have the tank access panel , only access for sending unit and hose connections.(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Osprey011.jpg)
The port stringer was dry and still attached to the hull. The port stringer is a different story..It had lifted and the foam is wet , the center stringer is wet and deterioring as well..Thinking if I should repair the existing stringers with foam and re attach or remove the stringers completely and build a box stringer system from coosa..(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Osprey008.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Osprey016.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Osprey016.jpg)
Appriciate your input..Thanks !
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More pics..(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Osprey011.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Osprey005.jpg)
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Should I re use the existing tank or replace it since it is 25 yrs old...I am not going to have the tank access panel , only access for sending unit and hose connections.
Appriciate your input..Thanks !
If there is really no/minimal corrosion on the outside after 25 years, then by all means you can use the tank but.....
How clean is the inside and why don't you want a hatch for future removal?
If you insist on no access to the tank, then replace the tank but I can't understand why you would rebuild the deck and not leave access.
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I agree with CB...in fact I think ALL boats should have a hatch that is relatively easy to remove to yank a tank.
Make sure your access pies are directly above the fill/vent necks and the sender/pickup area. Too many times I've pulled off a pie to re-wire a sender only to find the sender 3" or 4" offset from the pie...yeah, I can rewire it, but how the hell would I get it out?? :scratch: :scratch: :scratch:
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It seems like most re builds I've seen here do not have an access panel for tank removal, only access for hose and sending units.. maybe I missed it...Maybe I'll re think it then..
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My boat doesn't have that removable panel and i wish it did, someday i'm gonna have to get my tank out and it won't be easy.
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You should go ahead and replace the tank. Not that much money, and terrific peace of mind.
Save the female deck portion where tank hatch fits, and the tank hatch itself. You can core what is left, and tie the new floor directly to it. Let the break be directly centered longitudinally over the stringers.
Just make sure to order the new tank to existing dimensions.
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I did not build a removable panel for my fuel tank, just access for the fill and sending unit. If you build short stringers to support the tank, do not foam it in and make sure it can breath a new tank should last 20 yrs plus. If you are going to put all the time into a rebuild just replace the tank and be done with it. After having the intention to repair the old stringers in my boat I ended up ripping them out. It was more work fixing the old than building a new stronger grid stringer system out of coosa.
In my opinion go foam free
Capt Matt
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I think "peace of mind " on the new tank is the way to go. I have had many quality built boats, Tiara, Pursuit, Bertram and they never had access panels to remove the fuel tanks..
I'm thinking about using double 3/4'' Coosa Bluewater for the stringers. This will give me room for a wider tank . What do you guys think about putting a wider, shorter, flat bottom tank in, 100 gallons ? ? The tank that came out was 80 gallons, 93'' x 8'' x 9 1/4'' at the V..(It's a V hull Tank") ...and yes I will make sure it has breathing room around the tank..
Agree, Coosa Bluewater for stringers and deck ??????
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Agree, Coosa Bluewater for stringers and deck ??????[/quote]
all depends on what youre comfortable working with, and what you feel like spending. might be less to go with a single thicker core for the stringers as you might need an extra sheet to double it up like that. how many sheets to do everything under your deck matt?
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I was thinking about going with a thicker single 1 1/2'' for the stringer, but I was told it would be much stronger to go double up on the 3/4'' and glass in between ....that most of the strengh was in the lamination and the out layers of the coosa...many opinions..it would be much easier ansd cheaper to go with 1 1 1/2'' or 2'' stringer...the cost from between 3/4'' and 2 '' is only about $50.00 per sheet...
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I was thinking about going with a thicker single 1 1/2'' for the stringer, but I was told it would be much stronger to go double up on the 3/4'' and glass in between ....that most of the strengh was in the lamination and the out layers of the coosa...many opinions..it would be much easier ansd cheaper to go with 1 1 1/2'' or 2'' stringer...the cost from between 3/4'' and 2 '' is only about $50.00 per sheet...
Go with the single 1 1/2" or 2" for the stringer. Your more likely to have strength issues with the two 3/4" layers because your still relying on a proper bond between those two layers. Strength is relative to how its used, the double lamination may be stronger on its horizontal axis, but on its vertical axis like it will be used in your boat.... doubt there's much difference in strength. Think about how a 2x4 will bend easily on the flat, but turn it on edge.... good luck.
You'd be better off building a trapezoidal stringer like the factory design to be honest.
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I built my stringers out of 20# density 3/4 inch coosa and doubled it up with 1708 in between. With the stringers being roughly 18ft long I reversed the cuts so they came out as one solid stringer. After shaping and fitting the stringers I then biaxled the whole stringer, set and fit it in cabesoled then triple tabbed it with more 1708. It was way over kill but that is what I wanted as my boat will see 10's of thousands of hours of use. For the bulk heads I used 3/4 coosa. Once wrapped and then triple tabbed in the grid stringer system seems like the strongest way to go and is the closest to what they build on high end production boats. ie Schaffer. Everything locks together. I chose not to put any foam back in the boat, after removing all that wet foam I could just not bring myself to do it.
By the time the stringers where all glassed in they are about 2 inches wide. I used 5200 to stick the floor down to the stringers and did not use a single screw, I made the deck with about a 1 inch crown in the middle so the water runs off to the sides.
The 11/2inch 26# bluewater coosa I used for the transom is crazy strong with 2 layers of roven fiberglass though it. The sheet for the transom was expensive compared to the sheets of 20# 3/4. It seems with the coosa 26 a piece of 11/2inch is more than twice as much as a sheet of 3/4 26.
If I remember right for the stringers, bulkheads deck and casting platform I used 8 sheets of the 3/4 and this left me enough scrap to build the short fuel tank stringers,hatches, under the bow cap and gussets too. I think for the total build I bought 10 sheets of 3/4, 1 sheet of 11/2 and 1 sheet of 1/2 inch to do the transom cap and transom cabinet. I also built my console out of 3/4 coosa which was kind of a waste but I had the material so I used it.
For fiberglass supplies I used a full roll of 1708, pretty much a full roll of 11/2oz mat, 60gals of resin and 1/2 a bag of cabasol. I re-glassed the whole inside of the hull with 1708 after having it sandblasted before I started to build and made fiberglass panels for the gunnels which used quite a bit of material.
I had never worked with coosa and found it to easier to cut and shape than wood and you can use all the same tools you would use with wood. For what you save in weight using the coosa you can way over build and still end up with a lighter and stronger end product than using wood and best of all you never have to worry about rot if something is not quite perfectly sealed.
Capt Matt
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I built my stringers out of 20# density 3/4 inch coosa and doubled it up with 1708 in between. With the stringers being roughly 18ft long I reversed the cuts so they came out as one solid stringer. After shaping and fitting the stringers I then biaxled the whole stringer, set and fit it in cabesoled then triple tabbed it with more 1708. It was way over kill but that is what I wanted as my boat will see 10's of thousands of hours of use. For the bulk heads I used 3/4 coosa. Once wrapped and then triple tabbed in the grid stringer system seems like the strongest way to go and is the closest to what they build on high end production boats. ie Schaffer. Everything locks together. I chose not to put any foam back in the boat, after removing all that wet foam I could just not bring myself to do it.
By the time the stringers where all glassed in they are about 2 inches wide. I used 5200 to stick the floor down to the stringers and did not use a single screw, I made the deck with about a 1 inch crown in the middle so the water runs off to the sides.
The 11/2inch 26# bluewater coosa I used for the transom is crazy strong with 2 layers of roven fiberglass though it. The sheet for the transom was expensive compared to the sheets of 20# 3/4. It seems with the coosa 26 a piece of 11/2inch is more than twice as much as a sheet of 3/4 26.
If I remember right for the stringers, bulkheads deck and casting platform I used 8 sheets of the 3/4 and this left me enough scrap to build the short fuel tank stringers,hatches, under the bow cap and gussets too. I think for the total build I bought 10 sheets of 3/4, 1 sheet of 11/2 and 1 sheet of 1/2 inch to do the transom cap and transom cabinet. I also built my console out of 3/4 coosa which was kind of a waste but I had the material so I used it.
For fiberglass supplies I used a full roll of 1708, pretty much a full roll of 11/2oz mat, 60gals of resin and 1/2 a bag of cabasol. I re-glassed the whole inside of the hull with 1708 after having it sandblasted before I started to build and made fiberglass panels for the gunnels which used quite a bit of material.
I had never worked with coosa and found it to easier to cut and shape than wood and you can use all the same tools you would use with wood. For what you save in weight using the coosa you can way over build and still end up with a lighter and stronger end product than using wood and best of all you never have to worry about rot if something is not quite perfectly sealed.
Capt Matt
I'm not sure where coosa gets its claims of weight savings, but its not hardly any different weight than okoume marine ply. The 26lb density board is the same weight equivalent of BS1088 okoume, the 20lb board is slightly less. But not enough to make any difference in a boat this size. BS1088 okoume would be equivalent to a 26lb rating. Lower density foams will weigh less
Most people fail to understand what these products intended purposes were for. Most all of these composites are designed for in mold construction, half of which were developed for aerospace industry and should be vacuum bagged or infused. When they aren't used for the system they were designed for they start to lose their benefits.
The only benefit I see to Coosa vs. plywood is rot resistance. Weight is the same as a comparable marine ply. Not sure how the strength compares to plywood as their testing data is by request only. I'd say its not impervious to rot either, I've drilled into numerous foam composite transoms that have had wet foam and water seepage after drilling. So I know it will absorb water under certain conditions.
Most of the time a lighter weight foam panel will suffice, thats where you'll see weight savings. The higher density foams 20lb+ are made for areas where compression strength is a concern, like a transom where a bolt would crush the core if tightened. For stringers, bulkheads, knees, etc. A 10-15lb foam would still probably be overkill. When used like this the foam is acting more as a form for the glass than as a structural member. Thats where wood and foam differs, wood used to be the main structural member of the part. It was probably glassed over for water resistance only. Foam is the opposite, its not the main structural member, the glass is. Its simply there so the glass has something to lay against. However, builders sometimes don't understand the engineering behind these products and how they should be used.
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Thanks for all that information....More decisions now...prior to reading your posts I was pretty much decided to go with a double 1 inch stringer that would give me close to 2 1/2'' inches when glassed in. The only reason I decided to go with the double stringer is because I can stagger the joints as opposed to having 1 butt joint in a single stringer. The total length on the stringer is about 17 ft, so I was thinking of getting the 1'' x 4' x 9' long coosa and only having 1 butt joint on each side, of course I will stagger the joints. I spoke with Efrin the tech rep for Composit One and he said for the transom use 24lb to 26lb density with 1 1/2 oz mat and on the stringers and deck use a 15lb density with 2415 stiched mat and use Plexus 590 to glue the deck own.
I am working with an experienced boat builder on this project that does very nice work, but I'm having a hard time getting him away from marine plywood, he swears by this, but he's willing to try the coosa, so I'm want to present this to him in a positive note and have all the correct information!!! Marine plywood is great too, but all it takes is one guy forgetting to seal a bolt when he installs the motor, or any other unsealed penetration and your on your way with water and rot issues...
If I do use a single stringer 2 inches wide should I re enforce the butt joint or will the glass work take care of it..just seems like a weak link the chain..I dont mind a little over kill on the stringers which I'm thinking a double 1 inch stringer will be..
There is also a difference on the density for the Coosa for the stringers..I was told use 15lb and you guys are using 20lb...Is there a big difference ?? Double 1 inch stringers with staggered joints or 1-- 2 inch stringer with one butt joint..??? Thanks ...
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(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Osprey004.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Osprey002.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Osprey001-1-1.jpg)
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Nice backdrop. Are those lobsta traps?
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This was my first and only boat build, although I have seen lots of other rebuilds in person and did lots of research when choosing my building materials. When ever composite one recommended a density I went up one more level as I figured what could it hurt and I did not want to build to mass production boat spec's.
My friend who builds lots of mullet skiffs from scratch and rebuilds 24 Morgans gave me a hard time about building a tank and that I was way over building and over spending. Most rebuilds where I live only use marine plywood and mat and never even biaxle let alone coosa.
I opted for the staggered joint method when building my stringers, it just seemed to me like a stronger way to go. Besides the 26 pound bluewater coosa every other density I researched claimed to be 30% weight savings or better.
During my build I put a scrap piece of Bluewater 26 between two concrete blocks and jumped my 250 pounds up and down on it and could not break it. Its crazy strong and I thing the ultimate transom material. As for building stringers they are really just a form to hold the fiberglass so 15 pound is plenty that is why I chose 20#. I recently saw a rebuild using 2 inch thick nida core for the stringers with 3 layers of biaxle, The stringers had no strength but with all that glass I don't think it even matters
Capt Matt
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Are you set on scrapping the existing stringer system?
I would reuse the existing system if at all possible. Its going to be stronger than the coosa setup your talking about. The trapezoidal structure is inherently strong, its what most bridge structures are made of. Every major boat builder today uses a trapezoidal grid stringer system, aquasport was one of the first production builders to use this system. A testament to its strength is the number of 40year old boats on the water still and their loyal following.
The problem the factory stringer system has is with the attachment of the stringer to the hull. I'd retab the stringers to the hull with epoxy, then add additional laminate in the hull bottom and up the chine to the deck bottom. Do the same through the center of the boat, epoxy in the center keel board, etc. I'd also add another layer of glass on top of the stringers, then over the entire stringer.
By keeping the original stringer system you'll be better off in terms of strength, should be more affordable, and a future buyer may be more comfortable knowing the stringers weren't cobbled together by a fiberglass huffer not an engineer.
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Some higher end production boats that are using the grid stringer system are Lake and bay, Jupiter, glacier bay, hatteras world cat, edgewater, ranger, shaefer and dorado.
Capt Matt
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No Slippery, I'm not set in how to repair the stringers..I just want to do it the best way since I've commited myself to doing this project...I have moments that I ask myself , "What did I get myself into "!!..I woke up this morning with the plan to do it like Matt had stated...Double
1 inch Coosa (20lb density) with staggered joinnts and bulkheads at the deck joints...But now you after reading your post, you have me re thinking this..Hard to decide when you don't have any experience on these rebuils..It would certainly be less expensive to work with the existing stringers..I noticed on Baysides wensite, they use the existing stringewrs..Its just the idea od after pulling all that wet foam out , then putting it back in...You are "right" on about the stringer attachment to the hull..there is only one layer of cloth or mat attaching it to the hull..It seems if they have put a couple layes and tabed it more than 3 inched it would have held...Have to make a decision..guess I'll be re thinking this again....Thanks
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I could not bring myself to refoam the stringers after removing all that wet foam. I started out with the intention of repairing the old stringers. I needed to raise my floor and felt attaching any thing to the 40 plus year old stringers was not as structurally sound as building new. Your boat being only two stringers wide would be a lot less work than my flatback being 5 pyramid stringers wide.
Capt Matt
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like said before, the foam core itself isnt doing much of the work, its in the vertical faces of the glass thats on them. you can butt joint foam core together with epoxy and the foam itself will rip off before the epoxy bond between them fails (in most cases). youre going to be doing alot of grinding and tabbing either way if you retab the original stringers or making new ones. making new ones wouldnt be that much more work. i was able to get both stringers and all bulkheads out of 2 sheets of 1" corecell. 2 layers or 1708 on each side, then 2 wrapping them, then 2 (12" and 10") tabbing into the hull. only about 40# apiece. just another one of the many options to consider...
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Yes Rick, Lobster traps and some stone crab traps too..I'm working in a little fishing village in the Florida Keys..
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I could not bring myself to refoam the stringers after removing all that wet foam. I started out with the intention of repairing the old stringers. I needed to raise my floor and felt attaching any thing to the 40 plus year old stringers was not as structurally sound as building new. Your boat being only two stringers wide would be a lot less work than my flatback being 5 pyramid stringers wide.
Capt Matt
Do you find the hull to be real noisy without any foam for sound-deadening?
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Some thoughts on today's discussion. Just returned from the boat shop, thinking rebuilds, so:
Matt has a flatback. Entirely different original stringer system than the later 12 degree 22-2's, which had only two large trapezoid stringers. Matt, I can see with your classic flatback why you would have scrapped what was existing. There is no doubt that what you have built is substantially stronger and stiffer than the original.
Slip, as you recommend, on my '73 we went with the original double trapezoid stringers. Glassed permalloy high density synthentic tops, which in retrospect was a waste of money and weight, since we are now installing a pulled, molded, nidacore floor system to accommodate a removable tank hatch. The original plan was to tie the console to the stringers. Now the console will be tied to imbedded permalloy in the deck core in the console outline area.
Regarding tabbing the existing trap stringers, their present survivability probably depends on original layup quality/cure/ass-whipping through the years. From former reports here...when the plywood floors are cut away...the stringers are mostly good/fully intact. The ones on Miss Delmarva were great. We cleaned up the tabs, added more glass anyway.
Been some recent discussion re tank hatches...some want them, some don't. I was with the latter group initially. But, after talking with friends, decided to invest the extra money to be able to inspect the entire tank down the road. Figured since am planning on keeping her the rest of my life...money well spent. Not a quick and easy job. An entire deck mold was built incorporating a tank hatch...plus molded recesses for the floor hatches.
Because we changed mid-stream from a completely closed deck to a tank hatch...builder says the biggest regret he has is that we should have saved EVERYTHING from the original floor, other than of course the plywood. Could have re-cored the female/male portions of the tank hatch area. The liner could have also been saved and reused...yet glued to the hull-sides unlike the unattached original.
Guess the point being...plans can change. So on the demolition, spend a little extra time on your cuts with regard to the future...whether you use the parts or not. If nothing else, could be a resale opportunity.
We will place sheet foam outboard of the stringers for sound deadening.
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Yes Rick, Lobster traps and some stone crab traps too..I'm working in a little fishing village in the Florida Keys..
Would not have thought you were in the keys and was thinking some place up north, hence the "lobsta" question.
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Rick
My hull is real quiet without the foam, Nothing vibrates even when running and it does not have that hollow sound to it. Probably because everything is stuck together and locked together.
Capt Matt
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Making a little progress this week..cap is ready for new foam core...(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87osprey001-2.jpg)
Removing core from casting deck..Plan on insulating port and starboad deck boxes to ho(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87osprey012.jpg)ld ice...
Got her turn over today to prepare for new gelcoat bottom...hope to spray gelcoat friday afternoon..First and last time I sanded bottom paint...NASTY job...will sandblast for sure next time...(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87osprey008-1.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87osprey018.jpg)
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looking good, you down on stock island?
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No..looks like Stock Island though....about 25 miles north of Stock Island..Marathon....
I know your Dad was in Big Pine.....where are you ?
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on the indian river on the east coast. he lived here too, but lived in key west in the early 70s, then ran some treasure boat stuff out of stock island off and on for the last 10 yrs or so. got a friend in big pine he was rebuilding a 2cyl isuzu diesel for...
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Making some progress on my 222 Osprey....new gelcoat bottom
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2004.jpg)
transom
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2004.jpg)
stringers glassed in
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2012.jpg)
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2014.jpg)
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2015.jpg)
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2019.jpg)
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2029.jpg)
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2043.jpg)
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2027.jpg)
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looks awesome dude!
what color hull sides are you gonna go with?
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I'm painting the hull sides a custom awlgrip color..it's called "Bright Atlantic Blue Metalic"...it's a medium blue, I saw it on a Jupiter boat and really like it..it's different !!!! and Stark White on the inside, maybe a very light grey deck,
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(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2044.jpg)
I insulated the 2 side boxes on the casting deck for some
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2028.jpg)
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2046.jpg)
cold ones !!!
Cap and casting deck installed, hopefully get deck on next week..
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2048.jpg)
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2037.jpg)
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2021.jpg)
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(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2014.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2007.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87Aquasportprogress2006.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/87osprey012.jpg)
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:thumright:
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Finaly getting ready to prime her now...(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/ospreyfairing196.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/ospreyfairing194.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/ospreyfairing197.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/ospreyfairing198.jpg)(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb464/severn71/ospreyfairing193.jpg)
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looks great! very clean work!