Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 196 Rebuilds => Topic started by: gman 82 aquasport on December 12, 2011, 08:54:04 PM
-
Hey everybody, this is the beginning of my off season rebuild of the floor of my 82 aquasport, I have removed the motor and console, t-top and electronic box, now the "fun" shall begin... First a little background on this boat..picked it up in Holden Beach NC , in April 2011. The previous owner (not a boat person) had run it into a dock and split the cap on the port side about 4 feet long about 5 feet back from the bow left a hole about 4 indhes high by 4 ft long...patched it with duck tape (not kidding). Sold boat to another , he bought it for the motor and then sold the hull and trailer to me ($700). I rebuilt the cap and painted the outside of the hull to where it is now. During this summer noticed a soft spot or two in the floor , was told the transom was rebuilt 4 or 5 years ago? :?: So the plan is to remove old floor, check the transom, stringers and rebuild what needs to be rebuilt,going to do away with the wiring trough and use 2 pipes (1 for wires , 1 for fuel and hydraulic steering that will be added) make a bigger tank coffin to get a bigger tank( original 45 gallons I want 55-60 if possible)popsting a couple of pics and need a little input:(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/Picture003.jpg)[img
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/Picture004.jpg)
Transom looks good pic #1 but if you look close at pic #2 you can see a place about 1 1/2 inch round that is soft...what will be best way to fix this spot..Also will be raising scuppers about 2 inches and getting rid of middle one.
-
Will load a before pic on Tuesday, before I did anything to it and before I took it apart this week..
-
Welcome to the site GMan! Post pics as you make progress - we all love rebuild porn!
-
Will do. Mostly will be looking for info on what type materials to get, epoxy, mat, etc...will probably look for input on ideas for floor setup and stringer rebuild if they need it. I figure they will , I'm figuring on them being water logged... will update as I go, going to try and have it done by end of Jan....I'm optimistic....wife thinks I should know better... but if I rebuild it I know how it was done.. :pirat:
-
Welcome aboard gman!
Nice ride! Interesting that area in the transom. May not be a bad idea to carry it to a respected glass shop and pick their brain a bit.
Thanks and keep us posted :thumright:
-
Doing the rebuild yourself there will be no questions of the quality of the work
Good luck and looking forward to seeing the progress
Capt Matt
-
Heres a pic of the boat 1 month ago, Home made t-top and home made electronics box... seats are being replaced with a leaning post from secustom.inc out of florida. johnson 150 is a 1992 model ,runs well.v
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/2011-08-03150710.jpg)
Will post a pic of boat as purchased when i locate it.... :scratch:
-
Getting ready to order some materials for the rebuild,
#1 what type fiberglass cloth ( biaxial or mat or combo, 1708?) for the bottom and top of the floor? what weight?
#2 what type fglass for the stringers and transom if nessesary?
#3 Can I use the same foam for stringers and floor voids?
#4 Epoxy hardener , the temp around here will be in the 50'S most of Jan when the work will be done, will fast be to much or should I go with med and mix with fast on cooler days?
Got my tank out yeasterday and am taking hull off trailer on 1/1/2012..should be ready to cut the floor out on 1/3/2012. Will post pics as floor is coming out. Thanks
-
I am using West Systems epoxy with fast hardner. #205 & #105. I'm up here in the Florida Panhandle and the fast is not too fast in anything below 50 degrees.
-
Thanks kraw2 for the heads up, I will cut out floor tommorrow and be looking at how much will need to be done other than the floor... figured that fast would work, but wanted to make sure , I plan on laying it up wet on wet..will post some pics as floor comes out..
-
Got floor out today, foam and wood was soaked. Going to drill bottom of stringers Friday while removing foam and check them to see if they are wet also.boat must have been made on a Friday (Miller Time).
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-5-2012007.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-5-2012010.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-5-2012012.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-5-2012005.jpg)
on this last pic , it's the bottom of the inside transom, transom was redone couple of years ago, looks like it was poured, and ran all over everything on the inside...sounding transom from inside it sounds solid, should I core drill the inside skin to see...(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-5-2012016.jpg)
-
I'm a Miller Lite connoisseur. That can definitely was NOT from 1982. This was the 1982 version...
http://www.beerandsodaworld.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=379
That looks almost like current issue.
-
Transom was redone a couple of years ago I was told, could of been put there then, whoever did the transom did it so I couldn't tell where there was a section of floor removed, side of floor 1 ft from transom was still attached to the side wall with roving glass, That stuff was thick too..
-
Got all the wet foam out today, port side only half as wet as starboard side, starboard side had to use rags to get excess water out..foam took about 3 hours to remove, used a sharpshooter shovel, made it easier....weight of removed foam is about 235 lbs..took a couple of core samples of stringers,and you guessed it...wet..starboard side wet, port side not so much but foam is "crunchy", so Sat morning I will cot tops off stringers and remove the foam from them...will probably let them dry until Tuesday...going to put 1 layer of 1708 biaxial on floor and will do same to stringers after refilled....
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-6-2012007.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-6-2012005.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-6-2012010.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-6-2012008.jpg)
..will try and load pics tommorrow after cutting tops off stringers if time before work at the firehouse..
-
Excellent pics!!! I am betting parts of my deck are like yours was. Make sure once you get the foam out of the stringers check the tabbing and condition of the ply cores inside the stringers. Major progress!! :thumright:
-
Great job fellow Tarheel :thumright:
Let her go ahead and dry out. A certain day shouldn't be a deadline. When the time is right, she'll be ready.
Throw a leaf blower in there a time or three with this nice weather...let her get BONE-DRY inside those stringers. Then push her back in the shed. No dew or frost.
Lew thank goodness posted some pics tonight of my rebuild. For you going forward....the stringer tops on my mess as shown are permalloy for screw bonding, glassed over.
Please check the pics. Note the below-deck longitudinal floor supports at the inboard hull sides, and the forward casting deck supports port and starboard. And don't forget to leave a "crown" on the centerline for drainage to either side.
Best to you and your sweet 19-6 :thumright:
-
Got tops of stringers off today and got the foam out, saturated of course, but it is a 30 year old boat :) I highly reccomend anyone doing this to get a sharpshooter shovel (linemans shovel) makes getting foam out a lot easier, had all mine remove in about 45 minutes, took longer to bag.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-7-2012002.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-7-2012004.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-7-2012005.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-7-2012006.jpg)
-
Thanks gran, my intention it to raise the height of the stringers to 1 inch below new floor height, then glass them back together, then add 1 strip of 3/4 ply down the top of them with it getting wider where my t-top will attach, so I will have a good place to attach the t-top and the console, of course the ply will be encased in fglass and be then glassed to the top of the stringers, should never :?: get a hole thru the stringers again... I'll check grans pics for how to get the floor crown in there, is 1/2 inch rise in the center enough to make water shed to the outside edges or do you need more crown?Nothing else but drying out until my foam and fglass and epoxy get here, Good thing that I only work 10 days a month, will give time to jump on this when supplies arrive..thought about a few bulkheads on outside of stringers for support, haven't decided yet, will be putting bulkheads in for new tank, may be having to have a custom plastic one made, going to talk to moeller on Monday (ouch)
-
Got a question for my stringers, since they were about 1-1 1/2 inches below the original floor height and I am raising the floor 3/4 inch, I was thinking of raising the height of the stringers to 3/4 below new floor height, then adding a strip of 3/4 ply across tops of them(glassed of course)so my floor would mount right to the new stringer tops(ply)with a little glue and screws. Plan on doing the stringers this way, unless you guys see fault in this, going to take 1/8 plexiglass strips 4" wide and screw them to the stringer sides that are still attatched to hull then attach top piece that I cutoff to remove foam to a height 3/4" below new floor. Then refill stringers with foam in original holes in stringer tops, then remove plexiglass when foam is dry, then reglass tops and sides of stringers. Then add 3/4 ply to top and glass in place, 3/4' ply will be wider than stringers where my t-top legs will mount for extra support. Think this will work, If I put stringers back to original height Iwill have to fill about 2" of space. thanks
Got all my supplies in Thurs an Fri so as soon as our little cold streak goes away I will be starting to rebuild..
starting supplies
6 gal epoxy and hardners
17oz 4" , 8", 12", tabbing glass 50 yds each
17 yrds 17oz glass biaxial,50" wide for floor
6 gal 2lb foam
5 gal 4lb foam
10 yrds 6oz glass for floor top second layer and third if it needs it
silica
wood flour
rollers
1 55 gal fuel tank
already have my plywood and such...just waiting for a little warmer weather, Foam is staying in the house for now, plan on sitting it in a tub of hot water for and hour or two before using so its temp will be 80-85 degr.
-
Took old floor and foam to dump yesterday, 610lbs.....figure by the time I get done with new floor it should be 200-225lbs lighter..even with a bigger fuel tank, old alum one is twice the weight of new composite one..going from 45 gal to 55 gal,
-
sounds like it should work well. whats going to hold the stringer caps in place when youre pouring the foam? screwing them to the plexiglass too?
id take some material (scrap wood) equal to the height youre raising the deck ( minus the 3/4 for ply on top of the stringer) and just lay it across the cut tops of the stringers and put the stringer caps on that while youre screwing the plexiglass to them, this will make sure everything is nice and straight and parallel.
dark colored car roofs work great for warming up resin/foam also...
-
Try placing the resin, hardener, etc., in a black garbage bag and set it in the sun. Works great for motor oil, gear lube etc.
-
thanks dirtwheelsfl, thought about just laying some 1x4s across the opening and putting a 1/4" spacer between them and the sringer tops, but figured that there was no way to control the foam from coming out wherever it wanted.The stringer tops will be screwed to the plexi also. For now I have all my liqiud supplies in the house because they aren't opened yet.
sealion 2288 I'll have to try the black bag trick. Thanks
-
Whatever you use, 1X4 or ply, wrap the strips in polyethylene sheeting. Once the foam cures it doesn't stick real bad to the plastic. Just don't pull it off before it sets up. :wink:
-
HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM!!!!!
Took out floor drains yesterday and found wood, more precise wet wood, not rotten but wet. I have figured out that previously when the transom was redone it appears to have only been cut out and poured to the level of the tops of the drains. :( I will drill a couple of weep holes Monday to see how far down it was poured.
My question is this: Since the top of the transom has been poured about half the height of the transom. How hard is a poured transom to dig out and remove the inside layer to recore with wood as original?
I don't have a problem cutting the transom apart,just need info on how hard the poured material(thinking nidacore)will be to get loose from the outer skin...Any advise will be appreciated for I will be cutting it lose this week. And I thought this was going to be a little more simple than this :scratch:
Going to check the transom drain monday also and see if the wood is still there and if its wet. The poured part is hard as a rock but if it's not all the way to the keel it might as well have been poured with jello :x
-
hmm thats a new one on me. might be easier to cut the whole thing out and do the formica dam/mold new outer skin treatment to it. never tried to seperate poured material from a skin, imagine youd do some damage to the outer skin getting it out though..
-
After a lot of grinding yesterday and here is what I found, the transom was poured completely to the bottom, there is a small void around the drain that after I removed the drain I will be able to pack the void with glass fibers and resin, looks like they just didn't get all the wood out..The floor drains were the same , 1 of them had a little wood left around it maybe 3/8 inch around the drain. and since I am moving the drains a little higher I will just cut a larger plug to fill and glass..Rest of the transom hard as concrete all the way down, sounded it with a hammer..alot happier now that I figured out that I won't have to redo the transom... :D
Going to post some pics this weekend, getting ready to do a little modification to the front deck area....going to cut the center storage box(cooler) down to half its lenght and make little floor area so the Mrs will have a place to sit up front and be comfy.. she likes to ride on the bow while out and feel the spray...sort of make it look a little like a bow rider the seating up front will form U but will have a drop in board to still use it as a casting deck or a layout deck for the Mrs.. :pirat:
-
Finally a little better weather to get some work done, found arotted area of the center stringer, cut it out
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-7-2012002-1.jpg)
will but a shorter one back as the tank area will have afloor under it
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-7-2012003.jpg)
Also cut the cooler up front down 23 inches and will build a floor so the Mrs has a place up front to sit, going to put 3 cushions up there
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-7-2012004-1.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-7-2012005-1.jpg)
Got a new layer of 17oz glass down the center of the hull today, reglassed the center stringer
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-7-2012006-1.jpg)
Will try to raise the stringer height up next to get ready to pour them as weather permits. moved the tank forward 24 inches and will move console forward 4 inches..I have a plan to put a storage area under the leaning post under the floor, the hatch will be under the leaning post so it won't be walked on, the storage area will be 24in wide by 28in long and 9 in deep.Tank area will drain under this storage area and the storage area will have a drain yo the bilge.
-
The pics didn't seem to load I will try again in the morning..
ADMIN EDIT: When you copy the IMG code from photo bucket you don't have to click the "IMG" button here and then paste the code in - it already has the "IMG" built in from photo bucket.
Also, always start a new line (press enter) before you paste in the IMG code.
If you're pasteing in 2 pics in a row, press enter twice before you paste in the 2nd pic.
Rick
-
After a lot of grinding yesterday and here is what I found, the transom was poured completely to the bottom, there is a small void around the drain that after I removed the drain I will be able to pack the void with glass fibers and resin, looks like they just didn't get all the wood out..The floor drains were the same , 1 of them had a little wood left around it maybe 3/8 inch around the drain. and since I am moving the drains a little higher I will just cut a larger plug to fill and glass..Rest of the transom hard as concrete all the way down, sounded it with a hammer..alot happier now that I figured out that I won't have to redo the transom... :D
Going to post some pics this weekend, getting ready to do a little modification to the front deck area....going to cut the center storage box(cooler) down to half its lenght and make little floor area so the Mrs will have a place to sit up front and be comfy.. she likes to ride on the bow while out and feel the spray...sort of make it look a little like a bow rider the seating up front will form U but will have a drop in board to still use it as a casting deck or a layout deck for the Mrs.. :pirat:
Good deal....glad the transom seems solid. Have some thoughts. Please check your PM's manana. Tx :wink:
-
Little work today, got layer of glass on bottom of tank floor
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-7-2012007.jpg)
Also got the stringers back in and supported so if the weather holds monday in the high 50's I'll pour the stringers.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild1-29-2012003.jpg)
Going to cut a few more holes in the tops to make an easier pour.
The stringers weren't raised much at all. I ran a string from front to back to bottom height of new floor and attached stringer tops at this height minus 1/4 in or so..
-
The stringer caps are held in place with 1/4 in plywood coverd with packing tape..Screwed to the tops and bottoms, after foam pour I will remove screws and reglass filling the screw holes. Then will cover tops with wood panels to level just below floor to attach new floor to. The places wwhere the t-tops legs sit will be wider so the screws for it will be in 2 thicknesses of ply, both glassed.
-
Got the stringers poured on 2/2, I let the 2 5gal pals of foam sit in a tub of hot water for 2 hours before pouring so I would get more expansion, then a layer of 12in glass over the tops
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild2-4-2012004.jpg)
after glassing
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild2-4-2012006.jpg)
My new shortened fishbox going back together, the new leg area will be good for the Mrs.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild2-4-2012005.jpg)
Then a layer of 17oz biaxial 20 inches wide was applied
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatrebuild2-4-2012008.jpg)
Next week i will start the box panels at the fish box, I cut them 2/4 but will not get time to glass them until next week, then after thet I will make the tank coffin and my under floor storage that will be below the seat. :pirat:
-
Been a few days since I was able to get to work on my boat, but the past 2 days have been a little productive, got the bow area boxed
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-8thru2-21001.jpg)
I got the mounts for the floor of my underseat/floor storage PBed in
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-8thru2-21009.jpg)
Got both tank bulkheads in and tabbed in place
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-8thru2-21002.jpg)
and got my transom drains filled, round wood plug and left about 1/4 inch recessed then filled 3 layers of gless the a little PB to fill the rest .will glass over after sanding.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-8thru2-21003.jpg)
-
I got the fishox drain hooked back up(new thru hull)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-8thru2-21004.jpg)
Got the tabs glassed in for the tank straps
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-8thru2-21005.jpg)
The rigging tubes for under the console, 2in for fuel,steering lines and tranducer, 3in for batt cables wiring harness and control cables
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-8thru2-21006.jpg)
Going to try to push pull the control cables thru tommorrow if they go, if they don't go thru it as is I will take the pieces apart push the cables thru 1 piece at a time then glue them together.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-8thru2-21007.jpg)
Rigging tubes exit at stern starboard between hull and liner, the 3in pipe top 90 degree has a 2in opening in the turn so I can exit the wiring for the bilge :D
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-8thru2-21008.jpg), nav lights and courtesy lights in the gunnel...once all the wiring and all is in later, I will make a rubber boot to cover the ends of the pipe to keep out water :pirat:
-
I plan on mounting the fuel tank tommorrow and hooking the lines back up...Was thinking about making a trough out of thin alum sheet to go under the lines where they go between the stinger and the hull liner to keep the foam away from them a little to make future replacement (if nessesary,they are only 6 months old) easier... any thoughts on that working? :scratch:
-
g man:
You have accomplished a tremendous amount of work in a short amount of time, right by yourself, and without proper recognition...so here's a "shout-out" :salut:
Keep up the good job. And the AC fir...my builder swears by it. Matter of fact...there is AC in my rebuild as original coring in the casting deck, permanently embedded...and way too tough to dig out. Dry as a bone since 1973.
So good job there too :wink:
Regarding the aluminum chase for the fuel lines....how about some thin-walled 4 to 6 inch PVC pipe, ripped down the center to a half-tube?
Won't corrode, will glass to the stringer side, and the fuel lines will pull easily as well.
-
Thought about the chase after grans suggestion and am trying to find thin 6in pvc pipe, only found stuff thats 1/4 in thick so far, if nothing else I can use that..Gran thanks for the shoutout... I had some time off work :D and no side jobs lately :( and was able to get some work done finally... weather has been decent so glassing has been a little easier...getting ready to head out to the shop now and mount the tank....make some hold down straps and get both in.My tank has 4 places that a 2x4 piece sets real nice in, so I will use treated pieces for that part, the straps will attach to them then attach to each other in the middle.Will post pics after tank is in, also going to install rear storage area today , access will be a 14x23 hatch that will be under my leaning post seat..a cooler will sit on top of it...can't have enough storage on a C/C... :pirat:
-
Oh yeah Gran, I did a little research around here and most of the boat guys who have done or do rebuilds said to use the AC fir, said if you bed it right and get it glassed all the way and keep your screw holes caulked in the floor should outlive me..it will have 1 layer 17oz on the bottom and probably 2 layers 17 oz on top, 1 running side to side , the other front to back, than topped with a least 1 layer of 6oz cloth to smooth it out some then flair......Had thought about not smoothing the main floor area out and letting the texture of the glass be a sort of non skid...sound resonable? When I get this boat finished I am going to compile a list of materials on here and cost outlay :shock: I know I'm saving a bucket of cash by doing this myself but I will not add it all up until the end, no since in getting scared now :)
-
Yea i would leave the weave and not fill it just prime and nonskid over it. I might do just one layer of 17 oz and 2 tabbing into the hullside then a layer of cloth.The untrained eye doesnt realize how much work youve done until paints on it! But we know...
-
gman, want to catch you before you set the tank...DO NOT use treated. The copper napthanate/arsenic in the treated lumber will leach and quickly corrode the aluminum.
If you want to use wood use cypress. Otherwise PM me and I'll get some 2X2 hollow fiberglass girders over to you (ck my pics)
-
Gran , Thanks for the heads up on the treated vs alum, I didn't know that. Thats the good thing about posting on here , if I screw up , somebody catches it and all is well....I will change out the blocks tommorrow, I have to reconfigure the rear strap anyway, the fuel hose is in the way the way I originally did it, no biggy just a redo. Will post pics of todays work later prob after 9pm.
dirtwheelsfl, my thought process for using 2 layers of 17 oz then 6oz cloth is that if anything heavy(anchor) ever falls on the floor,I won't have to worry about a crack or such, I know its probably overkill, but I'm trying that built to last thing... :) I am going to leave the weave on the floor,no smoothing and nonskid over it,not much sanding that way. :pirat:
-
Pics as promised, today was tank day, not to hard to mount the tank but the hoses gave me a fit, while hooking up the fuel fill to the fill cap I dropped a 1/4 in drive and socket to the bottom of the liner by the storage box on starboard side....1 hour later and a pile of removed foam(new) I got my ratchet back :D Hands are scratched up like a cat attacked them, but I got my ratchet...
The tank mounted and lines run, tank box has 3inches air space above bulkheads and 2 1 in drains on stern end.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boar2-22001.jpg)
I have to redo my rear strap, the hose is sort of in the way, I am replacing the treated blocks tommorrow too..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boar2-22002.jpg)
My storage area under the floor that will be accessed by a hatch under my seat..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boar2-22003.jpg)
storage is 25x29x9
Got the ledge PBed to the stern for the floor to sit on, the center will be 3/4 in lower the middle 30inches, the drains will be at this level..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boar2-22004.jpg)
Going to glass the ledge in tommorrow also the new ledge where the trough used to be.. :D :pirat:
The storage box and bilge area will be painted white..
-
On a brighter note ,got some goodies in today too, new Garmin Gps/fishfinder with transducer, new brass drains for the transom, and new hydrualic steering with hoses.. :D
thank you ebay...
-
Coming along nicely :thumright:
-
RickK
Thanks, it has been a eye opener for sure, but I find it sort of fun, it seems that the days I only have 2-3 hours to get on it , not much happens, but this week I've had all day long, Monday-Wednesday and will have most of today too..then back to the FD.
-
wow u sure do make it look easy thanks for all the pics will deffinatly help when i get started on mine.
-
hey florida196, might look easy, but some of it is and some not,mostly messy.I have already thrown out 2 pairs of pants from having resin all over them, stuff seems to jump on me, left one pair to dry in the garage and you could stand them up almost :lol: The biggest thing I had going was I had already replaced the front section of floor last April so I could change the fuel lines and there was a soft spot in front, got that done and a soft spot shows up late summer in the rear so I decided to just rplace the entire floor redo the stringers and new foam..Biggest thing to make it easier was I took about a week after the floor was out and drew up what I wanted and where, made a bunch of measurements before I took the first thing off the boat. So I know exactly where I wanted things to be, got a bigger tank and moved it forward some, made my storage box under the floor, and made the front sort of like a bowrider( for the mrs)Still it hasn't totally pi$$ed me off yet! You will get there, just don't get an a gaint hurry, lucky for me I work 24 hour shifts so I have at least 3-4 days a week to get to work on it if nothing else is up. :pirat:
-
ya the fire department gig youn cant beat that schedule thats what i went to school for but the hiring in the state of florida has come to a hault it seems like.
-
Yeah, I've got almost 25 years in now :D Planning for my retirement from the department at the end of 2013, then headed for Carteret County, try to find something down there to get into...If you want PM me and I'll send you my # and your welcome to ask any ? about my boat and rebuild.... :pirat:
-
OK, last 2 days were semi productive, got the last layer of glass on hull bottom outside of stringers
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-28009.jpg)
put everything loose in storage box
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-28010.jpg)
Poured my foam after glueing pipes together with the control cables in them, this is starboard /stern, left area by drains open
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-28016.jpg)
The pipes exit starboard rear, wires for lights will exit pipe in gunnel
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-28015.jpg)
-
The pipes with cables already in them, and wires to pull harness and lines thru in them as well
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-28014.jpg)
Shot from the stern of foam and storage box
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-28017.jpg)
Storage box with 1 coat primer, 2 coats paint
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-28012.jpg)
The bilge area with same # coats of paint
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat2-28013.jpg)
Going to be cutting and fitting the floor on Thursday, will cut all 3 pieces then glass the bottom and install...Probably won't get to glass the topside till Monday/Tuesday next week, got a lot of holes to cut for access and lines. :pirat:
Have decided that when I paint the new parts I'm going to repaint all the white on the liner/cap at the same time, going to try and spray it :)
-
Hey lookin' good!
If may make a suggestion...when you replace the treated chocks with cypress/starboard etc...since the tank is poly...place a bit of 3/16th's neoprene between the chocks as a chafe guard to the tank....running, beating, vibration, etc.
Great work!
Looking forward to seeing her in person :thumright:
-
It's got a 1/4 in layer of foam between them now, do you think I need more? :scratch: Replaced treated with reg wood, if it rots up that high I have bigger problems! Also put a little foam in the corner areas of tank, maybe 4 in round area(softball size) to keep tank steady, the foam does flex a little. :pirat: Tank has 1 1/2 to 2 on all sides..
-
Missed that :lol:
You're good!
-
Cool..Now for a question about the floor. :scratch: ....I had planned on just butting the panels(panels will be glassed on bottom already) together with PB and then glassing the first layer opposite of the ply seams(seams port to starboard- glass bow to stern) then 2nd layer port-starboard...will this hold well enough? Trying not to overthink this thing :idea: , but want it to last. Any input is appreciated :pirat:
-
You need to put butt blocks under the wood seams. With the glass on top just run it fore and aft. Youll only end up with the overlap down the middle rather than the middle and a few going across the deck.
-
Thanks dirtwheelsfl, I can only put the blocks in the center as the foam pour is to the floor level...I plan on lying my 17oz cloth fore and aft then a layer of 6oz cloth side to side as a top layer, was thinking about 2 layers 17oz but it seems that people think thats a little much...plus the 2 layers of tabbing to the liner, 4in and 8 in.. :)
-
Sounds like a plan!
If you havent gotten the cloth yet, go with 10oz. Its easier to work with...
-
Already have it, 20 yrds 17 oz 50 in wide....10 yrds 6 oz 50 in wide..I've already used the 17 oz on the bottom and walls of the parts I've already put in so I've gotten used to dealing with the thickness :) Got all my cloth and resins and micro stuff and wood flour back in Jan. :pirat:
Also gran, looked back thru your post on your boat a while ago, she will be so sweet, :thumright: :thumright: know you can't wait to get her on the water :)
-
Thanks gman! Yep, getting excited...has been a lot of fun (and terrific diversion from the everyday mundane) planning things and sourcing stuff :lol:
Glad dirtwheels answered your flooring questions. Hopefully our master rebuilders are following your thread too. They shine on layup, glasswork....actually everything.
-
Instead of butt blocks you could cut scarph joints at 8:1 on the ends of the ply then glue together to have a seamless joint. A little more work but it is psycho strong and no butt blocks in the way.. You can stack the ply and cut both scarphs a at once with either a router mounted on a home built jig or you get a good workout with a 36 grit grinding pad followed by some quality time with a really sharp plane...
-
Going out on a limb here, scarph joint , would that be like putting a 45degree on both pieces and lapping them that way :scratch: kind of like you would do on a deck board? I can go either way with the attachment, neither of them sound to difficult. :)
-
You are correct but the joint should be at least 8 times longer then the panel is thick, so a 3/4 inch piece of ply gets a 6 inch long "ramp" cut to a feather edge on the end. That provides A HUGE glue surface and works really well. I've used that method on panels for skiffs and kayaks and it works great. More time but no hard spot in a bent pannel caused by a butt block. Probably overkill for a deck the will have 3 layers of glass around it but a good scarph is really satisfying to make.. And isn't this all about one degree of overkill or another? :D :D !
-
That is a terrific suggestion dburr.
gman, in order for the scarf to fit the foam....you could mark the foam and use a router. Shouldn't be too bad. Just a little messy :lol:
-
Routed some foam on a skiff build... Wish I had a nuclear powered super charged shop vac that @$&£€¥!! dust got everywhere and it was surpiseing what turned blue :oops: , even with a suit,hood, respirator and taped sleeves.... :mrgreen: Man what a mess but it did a great job...
Just in case, here is a link to a page on scarph/scarf types, kind of cool.
http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/stitchglue/plyshophtm/scarfjig2.htm :idea:
-
OK, got the floor panels cut this morning and fit them around lunchtime, decided to use butt block for its ease, also my floor used exactly 3 sheets 4x8 3/4 in from end to end with a 1 1/2 in cutoff at the stern, kept me from having to buy more plywood, scarph joint looks interesting if I ever rebuild another I will use it :) ..First pic is from the stern
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-1001.jpg) 2 larger(8in) holes are where the fuel fill line connects and the one closer to the stern is the fuel feed and sending unit, both will be under the console.
The small one closer to the bow is over the vent hose(4in)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-1002.jpg) Pic from the bow
Small hole at stern is for bilge pump, it will be bigger , haven't decided if going 6-8 in round or 6x12 rectangular.
I will cut the hole for storage access next week right before glassing the floor in, it will probably be 13x27.. :D
Wife says it 's starting to look like a boat again, if I could just get her to roll epoxy on :lol:
Will post a pic Saturday of the way I put the reccess at the stern for drains, lowered it in the center 3/4 inch. :D
Thanks dburr for the link on how to set up a scarph cut I will save it for later :salut:
-
Took them out this PM and glassed the bottoms, so that Monday I can set them and screw them down :)
I see alot of PB in my near future :lol:
-
Got the floor pieces glassed on the bottoms(lesson learned, never try to carry a 4ft x 5.5 ft piece of ply with wet epoxy and glass on it to lay it on sawbucks, you will wind up with epoxy in your hair :lol: ) Installed them on Monday 3/5, glued and screwed, will post pics on Sat 3/10 after I get off duty..I am planning on glassing the topside Sat...1 layer 17oz, 1 or 2 layers 6 oz,laid opposite directions, 1 layer 4in tabbing and topped with a 8in layer tabbing glass around the perimeter..Before I lay the glass I am mixing PB to lay in the edge crack to get a build up to smooth with a spoon so the glass will roll up the wall edge (no 90 degree edge)good thing I have about 3 lbs of woodflour on hand :D Will post pics of the lay-up after I'm done Sat or Sunday, going to try to lay it up wet on wet, so no sanding between layers.
-
She's lookin' deluxe :thumright:
Good job!
-
Sounds like youve got it under control. The bigger the radius the stronger it will be too. Ive got about 4 different size sticks just for doing fillets. I like to lay down the wider tab first so you have more contact surface, then do the narrower one. The second layer will strengthen the first one. Just a thought, makes me feel better anyway ya know... Even better would be tabbing and decking all in one piece, super strong.
-
Thanks gran, she's getting there..
dirtwheelsfl, thanks for the input about the tabbing, I hadn't decided which way to lay it, but larger first makes good sense. :) .. I'll lay the 8in first then go back over with the 4in.. My plan is to take the 17 oz and the 6 oz cloth all the way to the upturns on the sides, that way the floor has 4 layers at the edge. I will get as big a radius as possible with the PB. Not going to cut the storage area hole until glass has dried..that way
I can place the seat in place and get the hole right where I want it.. :D Tommorrow will be a long day of mixing and rolling and brushing :thumright: Wish me luck :pirat:
-
The fillets will go really fast if you put the goop in a folded up piece of plastic to make a disposable "pastry bag". The folks at your local Win Dixie bake shop can show you how to fold it up, it can be described (make a 14x14 or bigger square of plastic then folld/wrap it up in a cone shape, staple rhe wide end to keep it from unwrapping) but is easier to see. You load the bag, cut the end off the size you want and then have at it. For big layups I have a bunch of "bags" stapled to a board waiting to be filled so I can keep the batches small to keep them from cooking off to soon. It goes really slick. The spoon method is way to slow and will make you nuts..
-
Yuuuup
-
My pastry bag of choice is a gallon size ziplock with a corner cut off to size, used them to attach the pieces across the stern to hold the floor..Like you said the trick is not loading them up to much to get them to cook off to soon, that happened on the stern part, the bag got real warm real quick :lol: got my attention real quick to :D :pirat:
-
Been a few days since posting on this, so here goes, if you have seen my new post from earlier today you can guess how the floor went this weekend, Murphy and his briefcase full of laws showed up....but I preveiled in the end even if it did get a little testy Sat afternoon..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-12-2012003.jpg) floor glued down and screwed down
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-12-2012006.jpg)Tabbing at the bow, 8in then 4 in over it.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-12-2012008.jpg) Tabbing down the port side, same as bow.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-12-2012007.jpg) Tabbing at the stern.
Before tabbing was done I mixed some epoxy and woodflour semi runny, put it in a gal size ziplock, cut out a corner and used it as a pour bag, squeezing out the mix into the void around the floor, this filled it to the floor level :)
Then mixed a thicker batch to build small radius between floor and sides, the thicker mix flashed quicker(about 10 minutes) so this was done in stages :D
-
Continued from Saturday, this is where I got over my head, I got the first layer of 17oz bi-axial down, 1 run bow to stern and a narrow run to fill in the approx. 18in gap left....This is where I should have stopped and picked it back up on Sunday and I would have been fine, but no, I don't listen to good advise and I tried to lay the 2nd layer(6 oz) over the first while still wet to try and do a wet lay up.......Well guess how that turned out, not to good... :oops:
I got the bow section down, I had laid plastic over the 17oz so I could stand on it and started laying the 6oz, then things started sliding around :shock: it took about 1 hour to get the first piece in place without airpockets or wrinkles, than I started on the next piece which would go over the tubes, after wrestling with it for a while I got pi$$ed and just pulled that whole piece up and tossed it...I let it dry over night ,then went out Sunday and sanded all the bubbles and wrinkles out and filled any voids with glass and epoxy then cut new pieces for the rest of the floor and put it down, cost about $40. worth of cloth and about a gal of mixed epoxy to fix my screw-up... :oops:
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-12-2012009.jpg)
this is where I started over on Sunday
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-12-2012012.jpg)
Stern after all the glass is down
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-12-2012011.jpg)
Finished floor, i will do a little sanding in a few spots, nothing major , just to get a few places a little smoother...
This last pic is of the stern before any glass was applied
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-12-2012004.jpg)
the piece under the floor was screwed from both sides and epoxied. the new drains will reside here. :D it's not perfect but it is solid and thats what counts :pirat:
-
G Man....
I have yet to see a perfect Aqua from the factory.
:thumleft:
-
Understand that, I should have some time this weekend to start sanding for the flairing and cut the middle hatch down to it's new size. Checked the floor last night and it's good and solid, no flex. Need to drill out for new floor drains on the stern, have my new brass for the drains... coming together, just detail work and paint.. :D
-
Been about 2 weeks since posting on the floor job, got it down and started sanding some rough spots ans refilling with glass anything that got sanded thru the top layer of glass, then started flairing the parts that needed it, will have to say US composites flairing sanded much better than I thought it would..flaired all the edges where new glass went up the gunnels and around the new area up front and the stern..Got it all fairly smooth, you never really know until paint hits it.Here are some pics before the paint goes on, masking everthing off and covering the rest of the hull with plastic, cause I am spraying the hull.]
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-28-2012001.jpg)
stern before new scupper holes drilled
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-28-2012002.jpg)
bow area
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-28-2012003.jpg)
from the stern
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-28-2012004.jpg)
my cover for the pipe exit, took a 2x12 and made a form, covered it with packing tape ang gave it 3 layers of 6oz glass.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-28-2012006.jpg)
starboard side
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-28-2012007.jpg)
port side. :pirat:
-
Now the after pics :)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-28-2012012.jpg) Bow
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-28-2012010.jpg) Port side gunnel
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-28-2012009.jpg) from the stern
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-28-2012011.jpg) Starboard side rear
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat3-28-2012013.jpg) From the bow, you can see the new scupper holes I got drilled yesterday..........I have a few places that sagged a little, I will sand them tommorrow and reshoot when I paint the hatch covers, overall spraying it was easier than the roll and tip method.. :D
The floor wil be painted when I pick up my non skid paint, it will be rolled and sprinkled... :) Overall it's a 20ft paint job, looks good from 20 ft, upclose you can see some particles in the paint and some sags, but not bad for a backyard paint job with no spray booth.... :pirat: Scuppers only wound up being 2 inches higher than original..
-
Looks good! I'd think 2" of more clearance on the scuppers would help out a lot! Unless your boat was really soaked or you have a bunch of people in there. the pictures of the spray job look good! Did you have prior experience with spraying? What paint and sprayer did you use?
you're in the home stretch now!
-
It was soaked, all the foam was water logged..Yeah I've sprayed a few things, 2 boat trailers, 3 landscape trailers, my 97 Tahoe, rebuilt my Captains 77 C-J 7, 2 years ago complete teardown and rebuild, new paint and a whole lot of body work, fiberglass is easier than metal..Used a campbell-hausfield HPLV sprayer, can't beat them, don't use as much air , it's gravity fed(paint cup on top) not as much overspray. Start with a thin tack coat, then each coat is a little heavier, let it sit some between coats,not enough to dry, but it needs to be tacky so the next coat will stick, to wet and it's run time, but if you have enough paint on it you can wet sand and buff it back out..Paint is from West Marine, Brightside white # 4359 I think, it took about 2 quarts to get 3 coats, I did thin it 10% so it was easier to shoot..Primed anything that had been sanded back to raw glass and anything new..Like I said it's a 20 ft paintjob but it only cost me about $150 in materials, so I'm not unhappy about it.... :D
Floor is raised 3/4 inch and the scupper throph is 3/4 lower than the floor, so they got raised and only 2 got put back, didn't see a need for the one under the motor..
-
Floor blended it nicely it looks like. Looking good!
-
Thanks dirtwheelsfl, it's not bad,not perfect either, but any places that are noticeable can only be seen if your on the boat or standing at the sides looking in or at the stern looking in, don't think that will be a problem while in the water :)
Love2fish. update on materials, the paint is Interlux Brightside #4359 White, used Interlux primer as well, my spray gun is an Ingersal-Rand HVLP. The blue is a custom mix, ordered some sky blue from west marine and when it got here it was way to blue, so mixed it half and half with the 4359 white and got the lighter shade of blue, almost Carolina blue..
Going to paint the hatches and gunnel covers tommorrow and try and get the nonskid cown as well, then buff the hardware Sat while at work..should start mounting things back on next week if I have the time , got a couple of side jobs coming up and everybody wants their stuff done by Easter :cheers:
-
not bad for a backyard paint job with no spray booth.... :pirat:
Function over form... that's what makes it great.
Gotta love it. :thumleft:
-
Lookin' Great!!
Plan on bringing it to the reunion :cheers:
-
Planning on it, plus I will have it in Southport some this late spring and summer, we plan on taking it down when I have 3 weekends off in a row, leave it at the in-laws and go back the following week and use it and bring it back home for lake use.. :pirat: Ran into a small issue while putting the nonskid down yesterday...epoxy based nonskid going over polyurethane paint caused a small reaction around the edges of the floor where the non skid wrinkled up.... solution is to sand the nonskid, skim coat floor with flairing compound and sand then repaint nonskid over....it's all fixable and more fun the second time, what's perplexing is that I sprayed the hatch covers with same paint and shot the top edges for blending and the non skid didn't wrinkle on those, go figure :scratch: But after talking to some buddies who do industrial coatings and paints they told me how to fix the situation :D
-
Long time -no post :oops: , Got the floor finished, all non-skid down and have all new covers for all access holes installed. Still have to blend in paint on transom, as soon as no wind to screw it up. Going to post pictures on Wed. About have the trailer ready to put boat back on it, then re-install console(freshly painted)and t-top( new braces)and hatches. New eyelets front and rear, polished all the other shiny stuff. Will use all new wiring and run hydraulic lines for new Seastar steering.New fuel lines. Mother nature hasn't been cooperating much lately, and when she has the Mrs has had other plans, what do you do :?: So far she hasn't asked for any reciepts so I won't complain :D
-
Mother nature hasn't been cooperating much lately, and when she has the Mrs has had other plans, what do you do :?: So far she hasn't asked for any reciepts so I won't complain :D
:mrgreen: :mrgreen: Good heavens man keep your head down and mouth shut other then to say "Yes Ma'am!" :mrgreen: :wink:
-
The only thing she has asked is will it be lake ready by the time it's warm enough to get out without long sleeves(late May)..The plan is to be putting it back together next week and mount the motor and get it all hooked up and functioning properly, then after some checkout runs at the Lake Tillery, head off to the coast for a long weekend :D As long as everything plays well with each other :scratch:
I do realize that I am fortunate to have an understanding wife with my projects, and it helps that she loves being on the water :salut:
-
:D OK finally some more aquaporn.....Got to take some pics today as I was installing the front hatches and the eyelet and bow light...
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat4-25-2012001.jpg)
Side of bow, I had to repaint it because of the old bow roller marked it up pretty good, new one won't mark it..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat4-25-2012002.jpg)
Bow lights and upper eyelet, polished the eyelet out a bunch, didn't want to replace as it's original....Sorry about the bird poo on the boat, while we've been having rain lately I have had a few birds take up shelter in my boat shelter, and they have good aim..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat4-25-2012003.jpg)
floor shot from bow, the two 8 inch covers are over the tank, rear one is over sending unit and line to motor, both will be under console, rear one will be accessable at all times, front one over fuel fill I will have to move the console to get at it..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat4-25-2012004.jpg)
Front hatches , polished the original hinges out and put new lift rings on them.. This really shows how much I removed from the center one, the tops are covered with non-skid and I made 2 pieces to insert on the lip to make it full size for fishing....
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat4-25-2012006.jpg)
Stern veiw of the finished floor...
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat4-25-2012005.jpg)
New paint on the stern, will touch up the top of the transom after the motor is back on, I know I will scratch it while installing so I will touch it up then..
Plan on putting the console in on Saturday and putting the boat back on the trailer next week, then finish wiring and rigging it :D
Still need to carpet my new bunks this weekend also :salut:
Going to do my best to do a neat wiring job, probably will not look like a Seabob job, but it won't look like a rats nest either.. :pirat:
-
Very nicely done! :salut:
Same issue with the #$&@! birds in my barn too, and the cat just looks at them......
-
Thanks dburr, I finally feel like the end of the tunnel is coming,(hope it's not a train) it will pick up speed from here.. I still need to do some welding on my t-top, made some new braces for it.Will post pics of the top as I fix it.. :pirat:
-
Been a couple of weeks since posting progress, I didn't take many pics as I was going, my bad...but today we have new pics... :D
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-17-2012008.jpg)
T-Top in the garage getting ready to weld the new braces on it..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-17-2012012.jpg)
T-Top with the new braces and my homemade electronics box installed on it and both on the boat..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-17-2012001.jpg)
this is from 2 weeks before when I put it back on the trailer..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-17-2012011.jpg)
New front area , put new pull rings on the hatches and am having new cushions made for the front :D
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-17-2012009.jpg)
The motor all hooked up with new hydraulic steering , still have aproblem with it ..I posted it on the engine page and have gotten a lot of feedback into what to check and will be doing so on Sat.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-17-2012010.jpg)
Under the console. have a new set of marine plastic doors to be installed after all the wiring is done, not a seabob job but its easy to trace and it's alot neater than it was..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-17-2012013.jpg)
As I left it this afternoon..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-17-2012014.jpg)
Under a tarp waiting for the rain tonight :| At least it's out of the tent and starting to look like a boat again :pirat:
The top has mounts for a VHF ant.. a Am/FM ant., the GPS ant. a front and a rear floodlight, and a all around anchor light..
-
After I get the motor issue straightened out :scratch: .. I will install the new seat and the hatch that will go under it to the floor storage I made :D
Then I will put the new doors on the console and wrap it up :pirat:
Then it's time for a re-christening trip at the lake.....Then in June it will make the trip to Southport to stay there for a couple of weeks and we will visit it on the weekends :D
I will be putting new surge brakes on the trailer before that trip :thumleft:
-
Looking good!
Lets all get together and go fishing in June :thumright:
JD is coming down from Greenville with his sweet 222...get your crew ready, we'll hang!
-
the rebuild looks awesome.. where did you get the gas tank from? if you have a link that would be great
-
ceejkay, I got the tank from, Great Lakes Skipper, they have an Ebay page(s), you can also google them, they have a bunch of discontinued stuff and pretty reasonable prices, the fuel tank section when I ordered mine had to be 10 pages long..
Brighter note, got the boat running yesterday, had a ground cable with a bad end, changed it out and in 10 minutes had it running :cheers: moe pics from Sat.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-17-2012016.jpg)
My new console doors(greatlakesskipper)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-17-2012015.jpg)
Shot of the console with the doors closed.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-17-2012017.jpg)
Hole in the floor under the new seat for storage access, storage is 25 wide x 29 long and 9in. deep.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-17-2012018.jpg)
New hatch for storage(great lakesskipper)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-17-2012019.jpg)
New leaning post/seat, the back is off in this pic, uses the 2 outside pipes for the back or you acn have 4 rods back there or 2 rods and the seat back... :pirat:
When I attached anything to the floor
I pre-drilled the holes and filled them with 5200 and then rolled the screw threads in 5200 and then screwed them in then caulked around whatever I was mounting,so hopefully I will have no leaks :thumright:
-
My bad, the seat is from secustominc out of florida, pretty fast getting it out.. :D
-
Got an interesting question for the more knowledgeable members out there....Is it nessasary or is it a good idea to install vents on a console on the sides? :scratch: Reason asking is I have 2, 3 inch vents that I can just cut a hole on each side of the console and let it vent thru them....I've always been told that it's good to keep a battery area vented, and considering that my fuel line comes up thru the floor under the console, the fireman in me thought that it would be a good idea :shock: .....any one want to chime in with their thoughts :thumright:
On a brighter note, I finished the boat today :D , all that is left is to touch up a few spots that I scratched getting things put back where they belong, and I need to polish the T-Top frame 8) Will post pics in the morning from work. :pirat:
-
Venting for batteries would be based on what type you're running. Lead/acid type should be vented due to possible hydrogen gas buildup. AGM and Gel not so much. I would be more concerned about mold but you can always leave the console hatches (doors) opened slightly when not in use.
-
Probably going to put them in, already have them and might as well use them..Can't hurt..
-
Sorry it's taken this long to put these on here, computers at work would not load the pics :? ...
A shot from the stern..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-31-2012002.jpg)
another shot with all the antennas and lights shown
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-31-2012001.jpg)
One from the starboard,
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-31-2012003.jpg)
One from the front starboard veiw
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-31-2012004.jpg)
one from the port side
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-31-2012009.jpg)
One of the console
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-31-2012005.jpg)
Front of the console
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-31-2012008.jpg)
Front bow area, now has new cushions with snap down holders for the cushions(not shown)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-31-2012007.jpg)
Final cable set up in the rear , wrapped the lines in rubber and strapped the rubber to the pipes, shouldn't get any water in there..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat05-31-2012006.jpg)
Splashed it Sat 6/2/2012 :cheers: , I didn't have the scupper covers on :( and it takes in water as you unload it , but they are on there now :) ...had a little carb problem, but it's being taken care of this week...If it gets done by Thurs evening, it's going to the beach Friday morning :cheers:
-
For all those who have followed this on here, thanks for the help and encouragement. :salut: ...It was and is very appreciated..Don't know how this would have turned out without some guidence from those who have bravely gone before me :D
For general information, for those who are building or thinking about building a 19-6...If I can do it, anyone with general constuction knowledge can do this, just take your time and get all the info you can from the guys here. :cheers: ..
Also, everyone always post about how sensitive these boats are to weight movement....well I can attest to that now :shock: , by moving the fuel tank forward 16 inches in total and it being a 55 gallon tank in place of the factory 45 gallon( even thou the new tank is poly vs the old aluminum one)( made the change only about a 20 lb difference) the front rides about 1 inch lower. :shock: . not much difference until sitting at anchor and you have 2 adults laying in the front, then the drain thru hull is at the water line instead of above it like it was before, but I just put a plug in it at the fish box just to make sure no water finds it's way in there....Sat. while we had it out we were both up front with the cushions all in and was looking in the fish box and the water level was 1 inch down in the drain, so I put a rubber plug(easily popped out) in there just for insurance..Will continue to follow up with pics as we take it out and use it....
still have to put my 1/2 inch blue stripe down the sides where the light blue meets the bottom paint..
And still have to have my decals of it's name cut out to be put on :salut:
-
Looks very nice - good job :salut:
-
Been a couple of weeks since last posting pics and info on the boat.....
Got it splashed in Lake Tillery the other week and ran it about 20 miles up and down the lake, everything checked out pretty good...had a little carb problem , but got the local johnson guru to rebuild the top 2 carbs( had to replace both bowls, warped), fixed a small fuel pump problem myself and took it back out to run it again and it was A-OK :D ..
runs about 33 MPH at 4900 RPM's, just trimmed up a little, the prop is more bottom end than speed...may look into changing, but not this summer...
On a previous post I talked about the fine line of balance that everyone on here refers to..Here is a couple of pics to illustrate the point....
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/2012-06-07163907.jpg)
As you can see by this transom shot the new drains are above the water line, with me (235 lbs) standing in the rear I still get no water in the boat.....the scuppers help keep the water out as it's loaded on and off :D
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/2012-06-07163842.jpg)
On this starboard side shot you can see that the boat sits rather flat in the water(was full of fuel,55 gallons) the drain for the fish box sits about 1 1/2 inches above the water line, the only time it's below is when both me and the mrs. are in the bow and I lean over the side to see the drain, it's about 1 inch below the waterline, so I have a removeable plastic plug I can pit in either end of the drain line....
-
On a brighter note, we took it down to Southport, NC the other weekend and splashed it in the ocean, ran out by Jaybird Shoals by Baldhead Island and out by Oak Island, only went a couple of miles away from the inlet this first trip, just checking things out....The Mrs.( Kathy) had a blast and informed me after getting back that we will be taking it down every weekend I have off( which is not but 4 weekends out of every 12, I work rotations of Sat and Sun) till the weather gets to cold...she has deciced that she could definatly live on a boat....
Weather was great and only 2-3 foot seas :D
On a not so bright note, failed my coast guard inspection at the ramp :( got my warning on what to fix...
1) my letters and numbers were not block letters :oops: , has been changed now.
2) My hull ID #'s on the rear were gone :o due to the transom fix of previous owner, I have re-etched them back on the hull now :cheers:
3) Gigged me on not having a back up map on the boat for the area(not required but requested) :?: Have one now for the entire NC coast..(have a gps)
Watched a bunch of boats get stopped by the CG and checked, alot of people out that weekend,....
Saw a boat get washed up on the shore because of either poor anchor hold or something, bad part was about 20 people standing around the boat in the surf and they did't try to push it back into deeper water and within 20 minutes it was on the sand......Hope they had tow coverage, not a good day for them, but reminded me to get a second anchor and rope.. :pirat:
-
:thumleft: A good day at sea.
-
I took a few pics while I had the boat at the firehouse Sat. doing a little cleanup
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat6302012001.jpg)
I got our jackets up in a mesh bag ..out of the way..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat6302012005.jpg)
one from the rear
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat6302012003.jpg)
Bow cushions, all of them snap in place
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat6302012002.jpg)
Same
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat6302012004.jpg)
New cushions for the console, the back rest one is 4 in thick so no bars in the back :thumleft:
-
Night time shots, boat still inside....
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat6302012007.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat6302012014.jpg)
shot of each side lights under the gunnels.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat6302012013.jpg)
front console lights
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat6302012008.jpg)
Lights from the bow
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat6302012009.jpg)
a from the stern shot, I originally had white leds in the boat, must say I like the blue much better, no glare..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat6302012012.jpg)
light under the electronics box, no glare and it doesn't blind you and you can still read the compass :cheers:
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat6302012011.jpg)
Front flood light, it's a soft light not to blinding
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boat6302012010.jpg)
Rear flood...
I'm looking forward to seeing how it looks at night on the water :salut:
-
Been a while since I have posted any pics of the boat, been using it as much as possible, had it to the coast 3 or 4 times and we have it at the lake 1 or 2 times a week it seems. It will be down in Southport, NC for the Southeastern Aquasport get together this weekend..
We did name it this summer, for me the name is what I probably should have had for thinking redoing the hull and floor was going to be easy...( I would do it again to a 222 or a 24 footer)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatname001.jpg)
For the Mrs.. it's what being on the water really is..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatname002.jpg)
and a close up
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatname003.jpg)
The plans for this winter is to make an anchor pulpit with a drain pipe and make a storage area under the pilpit where the hatch is now....
Would like at this time to give everyone who has posted on here a big :salut: :thumleft: for all the input and insight on my rebuild, learned a lot on this one and will probably do another in the future, just will take more time and it will be a little larger boat.. :drunken: :lol:
-
She looks great, and the bow cushions, Kathy has got to love! Kudos, sir! And...thank you for your service!!! :salut: :salut: :salut:
-
Yeah she loves having the cushions up there, every time we've had it at the coast or lake, no matter how rough it is and how much spray is coming over the front , she's up there having a blast :lol: (as long as it's 80 or above)...I am going to try better to start posting more to others in the future, maybe something I learned might help someone else not have to redo something twice :D Over all it was fun though.....must need more therapy :lol:
-
She looks GREAT!!
Looking forward to seeing her this weekend :cheers:
-
Thanks gran, Looking forward to getting back down myself, only negative is I will be by myself 8) , the lovely Mrs. had to cancel her day off Friday to prep a class she has to give next week....so just me....and a few steaks for Friday night...I will get down probably around noon Friday...I think the next boat I try to find may be a 222 CCP, I like the way they look and the gunnel height... but that needs to be in a year or so, unless I run across a deal I can't pass up and just get it to do at a later date..
-
Gotcha. You'll get to see two nice 222's this weekend :thumright:
-
2013 updates...
Well I can't leave things alone :scratch: The winter project this year is a bow pulpit with roller to make 1 person anchoring easier :shock: Then I plan to have an enclosure for the t-top made before season gets here..I am also changing the top from vinyl material to epoxied fiberglass for a hard top, it will make keeping the enclosed area dry much easier..here are a few pics of the pulpit taking shape 8)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit001_zps38afef3d.jpg)
this is the drain pipe for rope and chain
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit002_zps6cc56f47.jpg)
my bow roller, stainless steel
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit005_zpsd57ac67b.jpg)
the thickness of the pulpit will be 1 1/4 inch
-
continuing on..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit006_zps6874ca95.jpg)
the wood with 6 oz glass epoxied between
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit007_zpsb4aa6f7c.jpg)
sitting on the bow
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit008_zpsffbc322c.jpg)
it will run back to the lip and be secured with SS bolts thru the top with reinforcement under the cap.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit009_zps63d7aa41.jpg)
from the front , it will be closed off across the front.
I have to decide which type of lights to use up front, mounted on the cap on both sides or mounted on the sides of the pulpit.
I will also modify the rail to go out and curve with the pulpit :salut:
-
Looks good gman :thumright:
-
Thanks Rick, I have the first 2 layers of glass on one side, I need to start on the edges this week while the weather is good :) Trick part is going to be bending a new SS rail piece to go over it...but I have a plan in mind. :scratch:
-
Looking good g-man :thumright:
-
Thanks JD, after I finish this winters upgrades :scratch: , I may be about done exept for adding a livewell, and I have my design for that about thought out :study: , when I get ready to build it I will post the process on here :thumright:
-
You will love having that anchor hanging out front when you need to drop it. My 222 had the individual lights on each side of the the roller but due to them being really old I replaced them both. I think they were the Perko ones like this, not cheap but will hopefully outlive me.
http://www.amazon.com/Perko-Horizontal- ... ion+lights (http://www.amazon.com/Perko-Horizontal-Mount-Side-Light/dp/B005D5TBN4/ref=sr_1_270?ie=UTF8&qid=1357668909&sr=8-270&keywords=perko+navigation+lights)
Just for everyones information I got to check out Garry's ride at the gathering in Southport. His deck replacement is one of the most solid and best sole replacements I have ever seen! I mean that thing is solid!!!!
-
Thanks JD, after I finish this winters upgrades :scratch: , I may be about done exept for adding a livewell, and I have my design for that about thought out :study: , when I get ready to build it I will post the process on here :thumright:
If you are like me you will never be done :wink: I am always looking to make improvements on mine :!: As a matter of fact, dropping mine off Saturday for a new transom and splashwell area re-design. I should just let you do it for me :wink:
You got that boat looking good :thumright:
-
Thanks guys, thanks for the link Lewis, and by the way how are you doing?
JD are you enclosing your transom and adding a bracket?
-
Thanks guys, thanks for the link Lewis, and by the way how are you doing?
JD are you enclosing your transom and adding a bracket?
Sent you a pm g-man. Didn't want to hijack your thread :wink:
-
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit007_zpsb4aa6f7c.jpg)
It is hard to see from this angle G, but how does the slug (knee) under the pulpit fair into the shape of the stem? I was wondering if you were able to hold the same angle/line.. In a previous life I did that in steel to a shrimp boat and it looked weird carrying the same line, it was awful square looking.. We ended up cutting it out and radiusing the knee forward instead of making it straight and it made a WORLD of difference, way more pleasing.
Outstanding project!!!! :salut: :salut:
-
That is an excellent point db, almost the same idea as the lady on the prow of a schooner....a more obtuse angle.
Nice job Gary :thumright:
-
Looking good my man!
-
dburr, my first thought is to close off the front of the bow between the knee pieces with a piece cut to match the arch on the bow front....then I thought about just leaving the knees out completly :scratch: , but I do see what you say in that a more angled knee may be more pleasing to look at..The main reason for thinking of closing up the front was to be able to caulk it up against any water getting up or under the pulpit :? I may have to cut some different shaped pieces and see what they look like....Or I might just decide to use just the flat pulpit piece only :idea: The piece after I finish glassing it will be about 1 3/8 inch thick or better so I don't think strenght will be an issue :thumright:
-
I would not leave that pulpit unsupported, there is potential for a lot of stress on your mounting point due to the pivot force from the anchor.
What we did was stand back and look to get an idea of what was pleasing then laid out the top three ideas out on cardboard templates. We taped them into position and looked at them a while then took a vote.. The yard owner won of course but we all felt better about it. My guess is that you might end up with a transition from the stem face to an oval shape curve that would give you an effect of a schooner or clipper bow.
I don't think you would have to close on the space, from head on I am not sure it would make a difference in appearance, it might be more of a problem trying to keep the water and gunge out. Again, make up some templates and look at it for a while.
For mounting are you going to through bolt to a big backing plate? The amount of yank on the end will be pretty large when you and the kids start cannon balling off the bow not to mention anchoring up in a good swell. With a big enough plate you could mount a nice bronze bit to make the anchor off to. That would be MOST spiffing and yacht like!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
-
dburr, not any kids to take cannonballs off the front, but I do see your point :thumright: I will play with some more knee designs today after I lay up some glass on the edges..As for bolt thru, my plan is to use a piece of 3/8 ply covered in epoxy/glass under the cap, then bolt thru the pulpit ,thru the cap and new piece, should be a total thickness of over 2 inches, plan on using SS bolts and probably 6-8 of them, haven't decided yet on a piece of hardware to lock the anchor in place yet :shock: , but I 'm working on it :thumright: heres a pic of it looking back to the bow
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit009_zps63d7aa41.jpg)
I will probably wind up with something that goes pretty much all the way to the end of the pulpit or at least to within 2 inches of the end :salut: Thanks for the info :salut:
-
:mrgreen: :thumright:
-
OK, I finaly got some time away from everybody else's projects I've been working on and was able to get the pulpit installed..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit047_zps6ea807ce.jpg)
thisthe pulpit mounted, I have a extra piece of glassed plywood under the bow so bolts are 4 1/2 inches long..
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit051_zps5cd1f6d9.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit046_zpsf89ca17e.jpg)
deck pipe
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit045_zpse0d1187b.jpg)
deck pipe closed,rope and chain fall into bow area for now
-
More pics of pulpit
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit049_zps36297a91.jpg)
side view before I cut the rails
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit048_zpsef91aeb4.jpg)
a closer view
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit052_zps6775bcbf.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit054_zps01e1a8b0.jpg)
mostly finished , had a little problem bending the existing rail so it would line up and had to put some heat on it..
I filled my new piece to be bent with sand and wet the sand thinking this would keep me from kinking the pipe..WRONG..got about 2/3's way bent and it kinked, finished the bend and put it on and made a pattern and I will get someone with a mandrel bender to bend me a new piece.
Before I put the rail on I stood my 235 lb self on the pupit to see if it would hold me and well it didn't break so I was a happy camper :cheers:
-
Also installed my new LED nav lights on the sides, which of course I had to cut more holes...
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/gman82aquasport/boatbowpulpit050_zps97ebfd03.jpg)
But they are supposed to be visable from 2 miles. :salut:
-
I am trying to find some plastic caps to put over the bolt heads, because I know that my wife will want to park it up there in the summertime and let her feet dangle off the pulpit, so I have to make it sitting freindly :lol:
-
Came out real nice Gman :salut:
-
Thanks Rick, all this is a big learning experience for me, :scratch: I've gotten fairly comfortable with the fiberglass and epoxy stuff :cheers: , but the stainless bending needs more help :eye: .. but I would try it again and probably will..I called the guy who built my rail dragster some years ago to see if he might could do some bends for me as he bends 4130 chrome moly for race chassis and has a mandrel bender but he didn't have the a way to put a 6 inch radius bend on 7/8 inch tube,very tight bend as he put it, his suggestion if I don't find someone, was to make 2 bent pieces and he would tig-weld them for me, so I do have a sort of option ..But I think I can find the piece I need somewhere on the WWW :study: This is why I post even my screw-ups , so maybe someone else will not have to do the trial and error thing :lol:
-
I am trying to find some plastic caps to put over the bolt heads, because I know that my wife will want to park it up there in the summertime and let her feet dangle off the pulpit, so I have to make it sitting freindly :lol:
Have you considered counter sinking the bolts?
-
I am trying to find some plastic caps to put over the bolt heads, because I know that my wife will want to park it up there in the summertime and let her feet dangle off the pulpit, so I have to make it sitting freindly :lol:
Have you considered counter sinking the bolts?
Then you could add a dab of 4000UV to cover the slight indent if you need it super smooth. :idea:
-
Great idea guys, and no I hadn't even thuoght about counter sinking the holes. :scratch: Flush would probably be better up there anyway..I'll post pics of how it turns out :thumright: Thanks :thumright: