Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Anchors, Power Anchors (Power Pole and Talon) and Windlass => Topic started by: seabob4 on November 24, 2011, 04:40:51 PM
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Guys,
You know I buy all my cables from boatersland.com, have been for years, they have the best prices (IMHO) and excellent service, never had a problem with them.
<!-- m -->http://www.boatersland.com/ (http://www.boatersland.com/)<!-- m -->
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It's not easy to find wire on their site - you'd think they would have it under electrical.
I'm about to put a windlass on the 230 and need #8 or #6 - guess they don't have that, huh?
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It's not easy to find wire on their site - you'd think they would have it under electrical.
I'm about to put a windlass on the 230 and need #8 or #6 - guess they don't have that, huh?
Rick, check with Greg's, I don't buy wire from boatersland, don't really think it's up their alley...http://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/Zen/in ... 997284983b (http://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/Zen/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=3c14cb7162c54eb505bccc997284983b)
You may want to think about 4GA for a windlass...
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Lewmars docs says 8ga but I figured I'd beef it up a little to 6ga.
How about this site? http://www.pacergroup.net/Categories17.aspx?Id=2_Conductor_DC_Boat_Cable
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When you measure from the battery to the windlass you need + and - obviously. The docs say to 33ft you can use 8 ga - 6ga to 53ft.
Do you think those 6ga pair wires from pacer would work? They say that the total wire length is from the battery to the device and back to the battery. I figure I would need 50 feet. That's pushing the 6 ga, so you're probably right.
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What current(amps) does it draw?
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Rick,
Your round trip (battery aft) is probably going to be in the 50' range, so you will be good with 6GA. But price the Pacer duplex per foot versus Greg's 6GA, 2 separate hot and ground, see the difference. I just checked 8GA, about a $1.00 less per foot...
Don't get me wrong, I love Pacer wire/cable, and running a single jacketed cable should be easier, but if you simply tape the hot and ground together every foot or so, it acts like one...
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Lewmar Profish 700
Model 6656211107-301
Voltage 12V
Typical Power 500 Watts
Typical Max Pull 700 Lbs
Max Line Speed 105 ft
Working Load 175 Lbs
Normal Current Draw 35A
Typical Line Speed 88 ft
Weight 19 Lbs
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What maximum voltage drop percentage are you trying to reach?
Using 3%, you'll need bigger conductors based on 35 amps.
Edit:
Wow,
That's the model I used. :o
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You're right - Greg's is cheaper. I was hoping to get by with a duplex wire but that 53' is probably too close to comfort with a windlass.
I can get 50 ft of 4ga battery cable for $90 delivered.
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CB you have the Profish 700? How do you like it?
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Rick, CB,
Genuinedealz has a neat voltage drop calculator. Here's the link...http://genuinedealz.com/voltage-drop.html (http://genuinedealz.com/voltage-drop.html)
Just did a try on 4GA at a 48' round trip, 35A draw...3.5% voltage drop. Close enough for me...
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Sorry Rick,
I have a human powered windlass. :(
What I meant was that I Goggled "Windlass" and used that model for an amperage number. Just coincidence.
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Yep, SB you were right, out of the gate. These babies draw some juice.
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Sorry Rick,
I have a human powered windlass. :(
What I meant was that I Goggled "Windlass" and used that model for an amperage number. Just coincidence.
Like minds...
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One thing I will admit is that the docs are a little unclear on the parts you get with the windlass. They mention a "contactor" but it's unclear if it is for the 1000 only or both. The electrical drawings show it on the 1000 model. Could just be generic.
Hey SB, here is a video on installing the windlass and they parallel up 6ga. Is that common in your line of work? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K79s6BJfT30 (forgot the link)
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I found some clearer info on THT (lord forbid) but now I think I'll have to order a contactor if I want a front control too.
Oh well, SB thanks for the info (bought the lewmar from boatersland and wire from greg's) and help.
Happy Thanksgiving.
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Rick i believe you have meet my windless :D
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One thing I will admit is that the docs are a little unclear on the parts you get with the windlass. They mention a "contactor" but it's unclear if it is for the 1000 only or both. The electrical drawings show it on the 1000 model. Could just be generic.
Hey SB, here is a video on installing the windlass and they parallel up 6ga. Is that common in your line of work? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K79s6BJfT30 (forgot the link)
Rick,
When you wake me up after watching that vid...
No, doubling up on a wire run is NOT common in marine electricals! If the voltage drop is such that a heavier gauge cable is needed, then that's what you use. Period. On windlass installs where the batt is in a center console, I use 4GA. When the batt is in the stern, I use 2GA.
A good example of overkill? The ProSports 28 cat I just worked on? Batt in the stern, whoever installed the windlass used 2/0! Shouldn't have any voltage drop issues there!!!
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Rick I have the Profish 700 great little windless you will like it. I hooked up a second control last year did not use a contactor and it works fine. Here is a drawing hope it helps.
(http://i543.photobucket.com/albums/gg443/johne230/9-1-201070858AM.jpg)
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Hi DT,
Hope you had a good Thanksgiving.
Did you do the install? What gauge cable did you use?
So that confirms that the 700 doesn't come with a contactor?
What kind of switch did you use up front? Foot? How did you mount it and where? Any pics?
Which battery did you tie into? House or starting? I saw somewhere that they avoided tieing into the house because of the spikes on the electronics.
It seems that it would be ok to tie into the starting battery and only use the windless after the engine is started.
For my 230, I have no clue where I'm going to run the cables through the cabin.
Appreciate it.
Here is a pic of the schematic with a contactor (pro 1000) - seems that with the contactor you run your heavy cable to the contactor and then can run light wires from the controls. Am I reading this right?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/ProFish_700_with_contactor.png) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16856&title=profish-700-with-contactor&cat=843)
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Hey SB, here is a video on installing the windlass and they parallel up 6ga. Is that common in your line of work? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K79s6BJfT30 (forgot the link)
Rick,
When you wake me up after watching that vid...
A real speed talker wasn't he. :roll:
No, doubling up on a wire run is NOT common in marine electricals! If the voltage drop is such that a heavier gauge cable is needed, then that's what you use. Period. On windlass installs where the batt is in a center console, I use 4GA. When the batt is in the stern, I use 2GA.
A good example of overkill? The ProSports 28 cat I just worked on? Batt in the stern, whoever installed the windlass used 2/0! Shouldn't have any voltage drop issues there!!!
Hope the 4Ga that I ordered is ok - batteries are in the stern. :(
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Hi DT,
Hope you had a good Thanksgiving.
Did you do the install? What gauge cable did you use?
So that confirms that the 700 doesn't come with a contactor?
What kind of switch did you use up front? Foot? How did you mount it and where? Any pics?
Which battery did you tie into? House or starting? I saw somewhere that they avoided tieing into the house because of the spikes on the electronics.
It seems that it would be ok to tie into the starting battery and only use the windless after the engine is started.
For my 230, I have no clue where I'm going to run the cables through the cabin.
Appreciate it.
Here is a pic of the schematic with a contactor (pro 1000) - seems that with the contactor you run your heavy cable to the contactor and then can run light wires from the controls. Am I reading this right?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/ProFish_700_with_contactor.png) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16856&title=profish-700-with-contactor&cat=843)
Hi Rick
I had a very nice thanksgiving my twin grandchildren @ 1 years old made it possible. Hope yours was good as well, getting back to the windlass yes I did the install not hard but took a little time the second switch I installed is down in the cabin near the anchor locker. Why you ask! well I fish alone most times and every once and awhile the windlass decides to have a little fun and not take the rope to chain splice (it slips) so now I just go down in the cabin pull the rope and hit the switch down there. The second switch is the same as the one on my console. As far as wire size I used #6 my run was only from the console to the anchor locker about36' round trip the power to the console switch is coming from the stern where the batteries are that run is about 30' so #6 was good there to. I did come off the starting batteries for power and only use the windlass when engines are running which is a good habit to get into sucks to pull anchor and then find your engines dont start.Sorry I dont have pictures. By the way if you need a rode try seco south best prices I have seen and if you are cramped for space in your anchor locker they have the 8 plait rope (thats what I have) takes up half the room and dont tangle and jamb in the windless. Hope this all helps if I can answer any more questions just ask. Good luck with your install.
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Thanks for the info DT.
What kind of switch comes with 700 - the "guarded rocker"? Is it waterproof - could it handle being out in the elements at the windlass location?
Good idea about another down in the cabin.
I'm still thinking the contactor may be the ticket to connecting multiple switches without splicing. Maybe a terminal block would work too?
I also need to learn how to splice a chain to rope - mine are the typical shackles & turnbuckles. http://www.bluemoment.com/warpchainsplice.html
Found another site that shows the crown and backsplice - doesn't look too bad. http://www.veoh.com/list/u/Video-Teacher
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DT pointed out a common problem with windlasses and smallish anchor lockers, as the rode piles up on itself, not allowing the momentum it needs to continue to fall. PITA when you're solo and you have to keep going belowdecks to spread out the rode...
And remember, the windlass is not to be used to break the anchor free, one uses the motor(s) to accomplish that, the windlass is for retrieval. Therefore, the motors should always be running when weighing the anchor.
Obviously, there are two ways of wiring the windlass control, first, using a "contactor", which is basically a solenoid, allows you you use a regular (non-current carrying) switch like a Carling Contura. The second way is to use a current carrying switch, which, while considerably more pricey than a non-, it saves the cost of the solenoid...
Another windlass that some might consider is a Quick windlass, made in Italy, absolutely gorgeous polished stainless finish, they work great, have more efficient motors (allow lighter gauge wiring), and the price is right.
Rick, I've run cables forward in the cabin 2 ways, basically. First way, providing there is access, is to go under the v-berth, poking small holes through any b/heads as needed, then coming up through the sub-floor of the anchor locker. The other way, on a lot of cabin boats, the hull-to-deck joint is hidden by little coaming strips, usually upholstered. You can pull these down and hide the cables behind them. If you have a cabin liner, there will probably be a gap between the liner and the hullside where the cabling can hide.
Good luck, I've done quite a few windlass installs, if you have any questions...
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Thanks for the info DT.
What kind of switch comes with 700 - the "guarded rocker"? Is it waterproof - could it handle being out in the elements at the windlass location?
Good idea about another down in the cabin.
I'm still thinking the contactor may be the ticket to connecting multiple switches without splicing. Maybe a terminal block would work too?
I also need to learn how to splice a chain to rope - mine are the typical shackles & turnbuckles. http://www.bluemoment.com/warpchainsplice.html
No Rick the rocker is not for outside in the elements yes mine is the toggle switch that Lewmar supplies. I think they also have the switches for the bow as an add on. Now splicing 3 strand is not hard do it a couple of times and you will master it the 8 plait on the other hand is a challange but after awhile you will get it also. I am not so sure the splices on the site you have will work with a windlass. Try this
www.anchoring.com/article_info.php?articles_id=5 (http://www.anchoring.com/article_info.php?articles_id=5)
www.yalecordage.com/pdf/brait_to_chain_splice.pdf (http://www.yalecordage.com/pdf/brait_to_chain_splice.pdf)
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DT pointed out a common problem with windlasses and smallish anchor lockers, as the rode piles up on itself, not allowing the momentum it needs to continue to fall. PITA when you're solo and you have to keep going belowdecks to spread out the rode...
I'm sure I'll have that problem. I initially wanted to use a drum only vertical type since you can do more with a windlass than just retrieve anchor line. The line would drop onto the deck where I could rinse and let it dry before stowing. I don't think I have the room for the installation in my locker. Then I thought I would go with a combo but saw the price :shock: , so I ended up with this model. It has free-fall so that is a plus.
And remember, the windlass is not to be used to break the anchor free, one uses the motor(s) to accomplish that, the windlass is for retrieval. Therefore, the motors should always be running when weighing the anchor.
Good point.
Obviously, there are two ways of wiring the windlass control, first, using a "contactor", which is basically a solenoid, allows you you use a regular (non-current carrying) switch like a Carling Contura.
Am I right in thinking with a solenoid I can put the solenoid behind the helm and split the heavy wire into forward and aft sections? Then I can put as many switches as I want in parallel to the contactor? I think I need 3 switches. It'd be nice to install water resistant "plugs" wherever I think I might need a switch and then buy the handheld and plug it in when I need it. Any ideas on this?
The second way is to use a current carrying switch, which, while considerably more pricey than a non-, it saves the cost of the solenoid...
I think this will be plan "B".
Another windlass that some might consider is a Quick windlass, made in Italy, absolutely gorgeous polished stainless finish, they work great, have more efficient motors (allow lighter gauge wiring), and the price is right.
I looked at that line but seemed you needed to put it in "manual freefall mode" - the Lewmar is in freefall when you release. That way I can get the windlass ready to deploy and release it from the helm. Lewmar is already ordered.
Rick, I've run cables forward in the cabin 2 ways, basically. First way, providing there is access, is to go under the v-berth, poking small holes through any b/heads as needed, then coming up through the sub-floor of the anchor locker. The other way, on a lot of cabin boats, the hull-to-deck joint is hidden by little coaming strips, usually upholstered. You can pull these down and hide the cables behind them. If you have a cabin liner, there will probably be a gap between the liner and the hullside where the cabling can hide.
I think I have the luxurious "mouse fur" only.
Good luck, I've done quite a few windlass installs, if you have any questions...
You can bet on this. I will probably add "and windlass install" onto the title of this thread.
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No Rick the rocker is not for outside in the elements yes mine is the toggle switch that Lewmar supplies. I think they also have the switches for the bow as an add on.
Now splicing 3 strand is not hard do it a couple of times and you will master it the 8 plait on the other hand is a challange but after awhile you will get it also. I am not so sure the splices on the site you have will work with a windlass. Try this
http://www.anchoring.com/article_info.php?articles_id=5 (http://www.anchoring.com/article_info.php?articles_id=5)
http://www.yalecordage.com/pdf/brait_to ... splice.pdf (http://www.yalecordage.com/pdf/brait_to_chain_splice.pdf)
I bookmarked them thanks.
The first link I posted did look like a strange splice and wasn't a favorite on some snail boating sites - didn't know how you'd dress up the ends of the splice so it wouldn't snag on things. I think the backsplice is the way to go.
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The Windlass came in while I was abroad - heavy lil pup.
Box says "700" like I ordered but it came in with the contactor and "guarded rocker switch" like the "1000". I guess they changed the setup. So, I guess I have the flexibility of the contactor and hooking multiple controls to it. Still need to figure out the best way to control the device from multiple places though.
All the wire and supplies came in also from "Gregs". Ready to rock on the install I think.
On a different note, SB where do you get your circuit breakers for your dash switches? All my current protection are the twist lock fuse holders - what a pita, especially when they rust shut like my raw and fresh water fuses.
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Hate when they do that. Rick, I know it sounds almost sacrereligious, but I've been getting my Carling push buttons from sailboatowners.com, around $5.15 per...http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php ... t+Breakers (http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?4881/Push+Button+Reset-Only+Circuit+Breakers)
They're Blue Seas, made by Carling. Can't beat the price!!
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Thanks Bob.
Found a remote control for up by the windlass http://www.google.com/products/catalog?rlz=1T4GGLR_enUS257US257&q=windlass+remote+control&gs_upl=0l0l0l1585208lllllllllll0&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=14754599442505518654&sa=X&ei=nE3lTu-mJIrNtgf247ScCg&ved=0CGsQ8wIwAQ#
Comes with water-tight socket too
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Started the windlass install a few days ago.
Bought 2-25' #4 cables with 1/4" ends installed. Pulled those down the stbd side of the liner (I know there is a rigging tube somewhere there but I can't find it).
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0481.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16864&title=t-cimg0481&cat=843)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0482.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16865&title=t-cimg0482&cat=843)
The liner in the cabin allows for the cables to tuck behind it above the side ledge and I ran the cables all the way to the front by the anchor "locker" which ends up being just a 3/4" ply bulkhead going across the front of the cabin behind the liner. Looks like just enough cable.
I also pulled a 3 wire cable from the anchor locker to the dash area. I cut a switch spot into the dash and mounted a switch and connected it to the wire I pulled from the anchor locker - 1 down, 2 to go.
Here are the "ugly pics" that I promised of the wiring under the overhead panels. I guess someone could have slid all the extra to the starboard and tossed it in the trough where the other mess is...
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0484.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16867&title=t-cimg0484&cat=843)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0483.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16866&title=t-cimg0483&cat=843)
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I needed to figure out where to mount the circuit breaker and the "contactor". The breaker should be close to the batteries but the contactor can be anywhere.
I don't have any room on my power control board for the breaker.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/640_BattCtrlBoard3.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16911&title=640-battctrlboard3&cat=843)
So I stuck a couple layers of wood to the hull right beside where the power control board is mounted and mounted it there.
[Future Pic]
The breaker is designed to recess mount so I needed to come up with something for it to recess into.
I have a few little plastic boxes from electronic projects a couple decades ago and think it is time to repurpose them for this project.
Drill a couple holes in one end to allow the positive in and out
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0492.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16875&title=t-cimg0492&cat=843)
Breaker mounted to the front plate of the box
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0485.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16868&title=t-cimg0485&cat=843)
Back of breaker
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0491.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16874&title=t-cimg0491&cat=843)
Needed to make a cable from switched power to the breaker
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0495.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16878&title=t-cimg0495&cat=843)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0496.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16879&title=t-cimg0496&cat=843)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0499.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16884&title=t-cimg0499&cat=843)
On the box
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0486.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16869&title=t-cimg0486&cat=843)
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I also mounted the contactor inside one of the boxes and then added 2 terminal blocks for the switches to tie into.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0477.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16860&title=t-cimg0477&cat=843)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0475.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16858&title=t-cimg0475&cat=843)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0479.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16862&title=t-cimg0479&cat=843)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0480.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16863&title=t-cimg0480&cat=843)
Buttoned up and the switches attached to the terminal blocks
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0516.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16901&title=t-cimg0516&cat=843)
Power applied and smaller wires out to the windlass. I had to chase down some #8 crimps for the windlass wires and they already had the protection around the crimp. I left the heat shrink on the wire that I had pre-cut although I didn't bother heating it up.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0517.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16902&title=t-cimg0517&cat=843)
I decided to put a bunch of velcro on the back of this box and glue the mate on the cabin bulkhead way up out of sight. There is no way I can mount this with a screw - I'd have to be a slinky to get up where I want to install it. I think I can barely get the velcro up there.
This pic is from laying on my back looking up to starboard at the anchor bulkhead.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0519.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16904&title=t-cimg0519&cat=843)
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As DT pointed out, there is a need to have an extra switch by the locker in the cabin (thanks for that tip DT) and again it is supposed to recess into something - no way to recess it into the bulkhead. So another plastic box is repurposed for that switch but at least I can screw that one to the bulkhead.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0505.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16890&title=t-cimg0505&cat=843)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0504.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16889&title=t-cimg0504&cat=843)
Ready for the windlass...
Holes drilled and jig sawed
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0501.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16886&title=t-cimg0501&cat=843)
When I measured I found that I had 2 layers to drill through - the pulpit and the cap of the boat and then there is a 3/4 to 1" gap between them. I got a pic of what I had to do to fasten the windlass down.
I had to put the washers and nuts between the layers and make sure the bolts went right through the lower layer. So I only was able to bolt to the pulpit, not really the thickness they recommend but hey - no other way that I could figure out...
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0522.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16906&title=t-cimg0522&cat=843)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0523.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16907&title=t-cimg0523&cat=843)
Here are the bolts coming through the lower cap.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0508.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16893&title=t-cimg0508&cat=843)
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The plywood had a huge void in it - I mixed up some resin and cabosil and filled it all up - found a bunch of it had dripped through the holes and hardened on the anchor rope. DOH!!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0502.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16887&title=t-cimg0502&cat=843)
This is from inside the locker looking up after the windlass is mounted.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0507.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16892&title=t-cimg0507&cat=843)
Windlass finally mounted
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0511.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16896&title=t-cimg0511&cat=843)
I had to wait another day for the remote switch to arrive
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0515.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16900&title=t-cimg0515&cat=843)
Mounted the connector and wired it to the contactor (wiring instructions were backwards)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0514.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16899&title=t-cimg0514&cat=843)
Last thing to do was learn how to splice a rope to chain. Google was my friend - watched a couple videos a few times and then 5 minutes later I had a nice tapered splice.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0524.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16908&title=t-cimg0524&cat=843)
Fired up the battery (starting battery as stated earlier) and tested the helm switch - check. Tested the lower switch in the cabin - check and then tested the remote at the front - that's when I found that the directions in the manual had the 2 buttons reversed. No biggie, 10 minutes and it was working correctly.
Final look at the finished product in the cabin.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0526.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16910&title=t-cimg0526&cat=843)
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WOW Rick!!!! When you decide to post some pics you really post some pics!!!!! :thumleft:
Awesome job! I think you're going to love having it on the boat!
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Nice job Rick!Like the rope splicing,that is hard to do right! :salut:
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Nice splice to the chain... good job melting the ends too!
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Nice install Rick did you use a backing plate under the windless?
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The bow pulpit is installed over the anchor locker that is built into the cap and there is about an inch gap between the two with part of the gap being the gutter around the anchor locker. It was weird - no matter where I moved the windlass either the front or the back bolts landed in a gutter.
Putting a block below the 2nd layer might be an option but I still had to tighten the washer & nuts to the upper layer, between the layers.
If the gutter wasn't there it would have been a piece of cake to back it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/843/T_CIMG0523.PNG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16907&title=t-cimg0523&cat=843)
I just have to remember not to try to lift the boat by the windlass and it should be fine.
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Thanks guys.
Like the rope splicing,that is hard to do right! :salut:
I thought the splice would be difficult but once I got started it was done in minutes.
Actually it took longer to heat the knife than it did to do the splice. "Over one and under the next, twist and repeat".
Good video here on how to make an eye splice http://www.veoh.com/watch/v3795955NBH2q5W6
After watching that and a couple others on the same site I went here to get more specific and it made sense http://www.anchoring.com/article_info.php?articles_id=5
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I think you're going to love having it on the boat!
I hope my wife likes the effort - it was really for her.
I like the operation of the windlass. When you let out line the gypsy turns and a pin on it hits somewhere on the windlass, stopping the cover of the gypsy and making it actually "unscrew itself", widening the gap in betwen the teeth of the gypsy. It gets out so far (maybe 3 secs) and then the gypsy goes into free fall - very nice. Took someone awhile to figure that out I'm sure.
When you raise the anchor, the gypsy cover turns the other way and the pin hits again holding the cover and making the gypsy tighten itself until it squeezes down on the line and starts reeling it in. Sweet set up.
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Nice install Rick did you use a backing plate under the windless?
I answered this in a different post but I do want to apologize for saying Marc gave me the tip when it was in fact you - Sorry - I changed the posts to reflect the real "tipper".
Merry Christmas to all.
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Haven't used the windlass since putting it in (only used the boat once :oops: )
Have a little time off the next 2 days - I'm going to see if I can put a piece of alum across where the aft bolts come through the actual cap to beef it up. Not the ideal but it'll have to do since it would be almost impossible to add it between the pulpit and the cap.
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Just before the gathering I had time to figure out how to reinforce the windlass on the aft side. Put a 1" thick peice of oak the width of the underside of the channel, then put a strip of 1/8" aluminum on top of that and snugged some washers & nylocs down on it. I think it provided the reinforcement it needed. Used it on the gathering - worked great, a wonderful purchase.