Classic AquaSport

General Aquasport Forums => Aquasport Discussion => Topic started by: J Mac on November 09, 2011, 04:23:35 PM

Title: Solid
Post by: J Mac on November 09, 2011, 04:23:35 PM
I have a 17.5 ft aqua sport. It is powered by a 90 hp yamaha. The battery is shot and needs to be replaced. What would be a solid and dependable  battery  for this boat? what would a ballpark price be for a battery
Thanks
Title: Re: Solid
Post by: slvrlng on November 09, 2011, 05:47:59 PM
So far, I am having great success with a 24 and a 27 combo (cranking and deep cycle) that I got from Batteries Plus. I think for both they ran around 180 bucks. :thumleft:
Title: Re: Solid
Post by: Capt. Bill on November 09, 2011, 05:57:39 PM
Find out how many cranking amps you need and shop around. There are many decent batteries out there. Prices will also vary, get one from a marine store and you'll pay top dollar. Go to Walmart and it will cost less.  I have 2 on my boat, the main is a Interstate marine battery top of the line and was 80 bucks.  The back-up is from Advance Auto, it's their middle of the road (Silver series) and it works just fine. It has also outlived the other top of the line main battery that was in before the Interstate.
Title: Re: Solid
Post by: Aswaff400 on November 09, 2011, 06:56:39 PM
ive had good luck with duralast group 27 dual purpose batteries over the years, ill probably replace with interstate when the time comes... my cost and availability at work is cheaper than driving out to autozone...

ive had optima's in my truck, they only lasted 2 years... waste of money...
Title: Re: Solid
Post by: Capt Matt on November 09, 2011, 07:19:26 PM
I've always had good luck with Optima marine batteries, got 4 yrs plus out of my last set on my flats boat. Only use them as a starting battery though, was not impressed with the trolling motor batteries.
Never had a regular marine battery last more than a little over a year before that.
Was tight on cash when finishing my new boat so I bought a middle of the road 1000CA marine battery roughly $100 a pop dealer cost. will replace them with optima's when they are done.
Capt Matt
Title: Re: Solid
Post by: gran398 on November 09, 2011, 07:26:37 PM
Have always run AC Delco Marine series 27's, starting and deep-cycle. Guess mainly because I have a business account with the dealer, but...they always seem to go 9 months or so past warranty.

All of the brands you guys mention are popular here.
Title: Re: Solid
Post by: GoneFission on November 09, 2011, 08:38:35 PM
I'm an AutoZone fan.  Good price compared to others, and change them out every 2-3 years.
Title: Re: Solid
Post by: Circle Hooked on November 09, 2011, 09:33:19 PM
I would recommend an AMG battery regardless of brand, my boat has sat for a month, checked the batteries today and both had a full charge, both are 2 1/2 years old, mine are from Worst Marine, every few months they have them on sale for $149 normally 189.
Title: Re: Solid
Post by: flounderpounder225 on November 09, 2011, 09:37:32 PM
3 boats with nothing other than the Autozone duralast dual purpose.  Dollar for dollar I don't think you can beat them, a solid group 27 battery, about $110.00 out the door.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... ier=107676 (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Duralast-12-Volts-1000-CA-marine-dual-purpose-battery?itemIdentifier=107676)
Title: Re: Solid
Post by: Capt. Bob on November 10, 2011, 09:35:14 AM
When I first saw this thread, I thought it was about Lincoln Hayes :scratch:
Silly me.

Well I've been running gel type batteries(2) group 27 size deep cycle. Bought the first set in 98. Replaced one in 2002 and the other in 06. That particular battery (06) lasted a little less than a year before complete failure and was replaced in 07. So I'm due but the funny thing is both are working very well. Hard to imagine a battery is still working efficiently after 9 years but it is. They hold a charge for months on end but I try and keep them juiced up when the spirit moves me.

When I get around to replacement I'll probably go with AGM types. Knock on gels (besides the ridiculous costs) is their charging sensitivity.
They're easy enough to keep charged when on land but outboard charging systems, especially on an old motor like I run seems to tax them somewhat.
I've had good luck with them (one failure aside) and definitely got my money's worth but at today's prices, I'll be dead before I could re-coupe my investment.

Good luck.
Title: Re: Solid
Post by: c master on November 10, 2011, 12:56:18 PM
To help J Mac, I think it's important to include the engines we are running, for 'context'.  In my case, it's an older 88 Johnson SPL two-stroke, so about the same size as JMac's.  

I know very little about electricity, except that (a) I can't see it, and (b) It will kill me.  So for what it's worth, here's my experience, JMac:

1.  I'm told "Marine" labeled batteries are better able to take the pounding and vibration of a boat, than an 'Auto" battery.  Other than that, they aren't much different in the way they work.  Mine's sitting in a plastic box under the console, on an old mouse-pad for comfort.
2.  I'm told "Starting" batteries have more - but thinner - lead plates than "Deep Cycle" batteries.  This gives the lead more exposed surface area, so a bigger, quicker "jolt" when you turn the key.  Starting/Deep Cycles have a mix of plates.   "Deep Cycles" are thicker plates.  
3.  My battery brand is Sears (marine).  Sears will replace a battery with no hassle, they have regular sales, and the product is pretty high quality.  But I have no problem with Interstate, etc.  For all I know, Interstate makes Sears.   I had a bad experience with an Auto Zone Marine battery when I was in a pinch, so I don't endorse them.
4. I've used Optima's as a "house bank" on my cruising sailboat (6 Deep Cycles looped together).  Great batteries.  Newer technology (coils), and pretty pricey.  

For the guys on here with bigger boats/motors, they need a starting battery and a deep cycle, minimum.  And a battery selector switch.  But for my 88 hp, I just have one deep-cycle.  It has no problem cranking my engine, it can run my stereo, tilt/trim, aerator, etc. and my motor keeps it charged just fine.  I don't have a trolling motor.

I disconnect it when the boat will be sitting for an extended period, and use a Battery Pal on it which supposedly balances the natural 'draw-down' by providing a milliamp or two.  

I replace my battery every three seasons, whether I need to or not.  (No "AAA" out on the water, to give me a jump).   Oh yeah, and I used to carry a long set of jumper cables, which I used twice in about 8 years, to start other people's boats.
Title: Re: Solid
Post by: LilRichard on November 11, 2011, 08:31:53 AM
What you need more than anything (and a few guys mentioned) is an AGM battery - also known as absorbed glass mat.  Instead of a bunch of liquid acid sloshing around, AGM batteries employ a "sandwich design", making them less succeptable to vibration.  Optima batteries are AGM, as well as many others.

Read here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VRLA_battery (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VRLA_battery)
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