Classic AquaSport

Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Electrical => Topic started by: love2fish on September 01, 2011, 12:20:04 AM

Title: transom battery junction box/bus bar
Post by: love2fish on September 01, 2011, 12:20:04 AM

I'd like to replace the original battery juction box (or is it called a bus bar?) that is on the interior of the transom on my 74, 22-2.

here's a pic with the cover on. I would love to relocate this to the console if possible to try to clean up some of that wiring!
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture056.jpg)

here's the rusted mess thats under the cover:
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/juctionrust.jpg)

can i use something like this for a replacement? I dont have any idea what kind of amps the original was rated for or if i can/should up grade it.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/busbar.jpg)

If you have any other ideas or suggestions I'd definately open to listening!

Thanks again!

Title: Re: transom battery junction box/bus bar
Post by: Blue Agave on September 01, 2011, 08:18:13 AM

I would get rid of it all together.  Get some new battery cable, which is expensive, and run it from the motor to the console.  Connect the positive to a battery switch selector and the negative directly to a battery.

Title: Re: transom battery junction box/bus bar
Post by: seagate on September 01, 2011, 08:56:31 AM

I don't have a bus bar mine is wired like you said haven't had any problems yet.

Title: Re: transom battery junction box/bus bar
Post by: seabob4 on September 01, 2011, 09:45:23 AM

love2fish,
If new batt cables are prohibitive ($$$) right now, I would recommend PowerPosts for the hookup.  It's done pretty commonly where the engine supplied batt cables are to short to reach the helm.  I have a couple laying around if you're interested...

Title: Re: transom battery junction box/bus bar
Post by: flounderpounder225 on September 01, 2011, 10:06:19 AM

Best prices for retail consumers, Genuinedealz.com.  Its where I bought a lot of wire, 1/2 the price West, and probably better than anything you can find local, plus they will crimp the terminals, and put high quality water sealing heat shrink on the ends for you.  Go with either 4 AWG or 1 AWG.  I went with 1 AWG because of the run length and big motor drawing a lot of cranking amps.
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20G ... y%20Cable/ (http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Grade%20Wire/Marine%20Battery%20Cable/)

Title: Re: transom battery junction box/bus bar
Post by: Blue Agave on September 01, 2011, 10:43:04 AM

I was going to recommend 2 AWG for the run from the motor to the console.  Mine is rigged with 2 AWG - no problems at all.  We used 2 AWG for all the boats we built/build and the cables are run from the motor/motors to the console, the boat is a 26 footer.  1 AWG will do a fantastic job  :thumleft: , but will cost you a bit more.

Title: Re: transom battery junction box/bus bar
Post by: seabob4 on September 01, 2011, 11:49:25 AM

Quote from: "Blue Agave"

I was going to recommend 2 AWG for the run from the motor to the console.  Mine is rigged with 2 AWG - no problems at all.  We used 2 AWG for all the boats we built/build and the cables are run from the motor/motors to the console, the boat is a 26 footer.  1 AWG will do a fantastic job  :thumleft: , but will cost you a bit more.

2GA will do the trick.  Right now, I'm buying batt cable from Greg's Marine wire, all the rest of my wire from genuinedealz.  Greg's 2GA is $2.69/ft, genuinedealz is $3.25/ft.  Now, granted gd has no shipping costs, so factor that in...

Title: Re: transom battery junction box/bus bar
Post by: love2fish on September 01, 2011, 02:26:01 PM

Awesome feedback guys! thanks! Ahh the projects just keep coming! haha