Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Fuel tanks and anything about fuel systems => Topic started by: 81walkaround on August 31, 2011, 08:18:12 AM
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Thanks to the wonderful work done at the Hialeah Factory in 1999/2000, I need to replace the tank in my AS.
:evil:
I was really bummed it happened, but I didn't want to let the boat sit for too long, you know how those projects go when you let them lose steam...
so.. i called up a couple of the boys and we got to work.
dam you aquasport! lol
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started out by
1) unbolting t-top
2) disconnecting all t-top harnesses
3) raising t-tops onto a couple of 4x4's
4) attempting to cut what looks like a mold for the gas tank hatch out
here's where things already start get interesting
although it looks like AS put that mold on the floor and it LOOKS like a gas tank hatch, it really sits atop the stringer in the back and spans across the stringer that runs under the t-top in the front, so, really, its NOT a template for a gas tank hatch.
luckily, we started cutting slowly and only had the circular saw set at 3/4". We started with a small jigsaw, but that would have taken all day. then we tried to put a fine (metal) blade on the circular saw, but it was heating up too much and taking too long. we finally decided to switch to the wood cutting blade, and it cut through the deck like butter.
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(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0771.jpg)
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0770.jpg)
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That does seem to be an early death, is it leaking? You don't have a tank hatch do you? Yikes!
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That does seem to be an early death, is it leaking? You don't have a tank hatch do you? Yikes!
Oops, I just saw the pictures, no hatch, that sucks!
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got the tank out, you can see the hole.. right in the rear/bottom
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0775.jpg)
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my initial plan was to drop in a poly tank, but i couldnt find any poly tanks that met my width requirements. there's only 23" of room inside the gas tank cavity in the hull (This is a 144 gal tank).
so, i called FMT (mfg of original tank) and i ordered a new tank from them ($1400)
i asked the tank to modded in the following ways:
1) move vent/filler tubes, and ground tab 6" aft
2) make tank 1" lower
3) make tank 3" shorter overall (to be shortened from the front)
This will make reinstallation alot easier since the tank has to be angled to be extracted. you cant cut it out and pull it straight up without entirely removing the t-top and cutting through stringer.
and this is where i'm currently at.
lead time on tank is 4weeks, so, we're "on hold" for a while.
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i was originally mad at FMT inside, but, after dealing with them, they are a top notch organization so far.
i love the fact that they send you schematics for your gas tank for you to edit/approve before they build it.
this tank went bad prematurely due to poor/improper installation at the factory, not their fault.
i'd post the schematics, but, i think fmt would frown on that.
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81,
Is this you from THT? Where Jimmy gave you the "what for"? :lol: :lol:
You know your boat was built at the WC plant in Sarasota...
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i did not know that! i always just thought you moved from miami up north/west at some point. lol.
and yes, its me! :D that jawz guy is a prick.
at least your wiring was done really well.. i had no issues with the wiring other than some of the cables were clamped to the floor under where i had to cut out, so, we had to break the clamps free before we could cut the floor.
from my best guess, it looks like the boat was built by setting up the bottom half of the hull... then dropping the gas tank in.... then dropping the entire floor/deck cap over it (maybe even with the console already on the top deck since those wires were clamped to the underside of the floor?
there's no way AS designed this hull with future gas tank replacement in mind.
i would like to ask AS what was the reasoning behind the gelcoat "outline" on the gas tank? aesthetic?
i'm just glad we started with the circular saw at 3/4" so we didnt cut into the stringers.
also, i thought the tournament masters were "no wood" boats? my floor is wood cored.
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got the tank out, you can see the hole.. right in the rear/bottom
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0775.jpg)
you can see in this picture why i wanted the vent/fill tubes moved back 6"
we just cut the tank in half to get it out easily and quickly (a sawzall did the job in less than 30 seconds, lol).
if you try and lift the tank to angle it out, the vent/fill tubes hit the stringers. theres *ALMOST* enough clearance though, so, just relocating the tubes should give me the clearance i need (combined with the slightly shorter and slightly lower tank modifications that should give me more wiggle room to get the tank in.
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81,
Your boat also has wood in the gunnels, end-grain balsa. The hull is wood free, but not the deck...
And, basically, you are correct as far as fuel tank removal. Even when I got there in '94, they had already gotten rid of tank hatches. Even though I never asked, my best guess is, that to reduce the amount of rework on the deck molds, they simply filled is the gap between the deck and the hatch and made it smooth gel rather than non-skid. To apply new non-skid in the mold and get it to match up with the surrounding areas is a beetch, much easier to simply make it smooth gel...
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they must have changed the layout of the bottom half of the hull too. the outline just doesnt make too much sense to me given the layout of the bottom half of the hull.
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Ok, since my 245 is the same layout, I'm very interested. What I did not get (maybe missed it) since the smooth gelcoat outline is NOT the cut out dimension for tank removal, what is? How far out or in from that line fore and aft, or side to side did you have to cut? If you have any close ups of the removed "hatch" piece showing the existing line, that would be great.
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What I did not get (maybe missed it) since the smooth gelcoat outline is NOT the cut out dimension for tank removal, what is?
well, thats just it.. it is and it isnt, lol. basically, yes, it outlines the tank itself, however, it is NOT a guide for cutting due to what's under that outline.
1) the outline in the rear that runs from port-to-starboard is right over a stringer, so, we cut about 3" forward of the line in the rear.
2) the outline that runs from stern to bow, if you were to cut all the way through it, would cut across a stringer that runs from port-to-starboard just under where the center console begins (begins == where you'd be standing if you were driving).
basically, the piece of decking i cut out completely, does not run under the console. its stops just aft of the console. although, the initial 3/4" cut that doesnt cut through the floor completely, follows the outline entirely, so, i'll need to glass that back in and re-gelcoat it.
when i'm done, i'll have two additional lines running from port-to-starboard.. the one in the back to address item #1, and one in the front to address item #2.
also, the outline itself is only about 22" wide or so b/c the tank is only 21" wide.. now.. try to find a poly tank that is only 21" wide and holds north of 140 gallons... this is why i re-ordered the tank from the same mfg.
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Circular saws make quick work, but they also make for itchy situations. Love the photo of you with the saw, your respirator, and your flip flops. That's classic! :cheers:
Good luck with the project. :salut:
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:D
shadetree at its finest.
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welcome back and thanks for posting your refit!hop you get it put back together soon,nice job tackling it your self!more pics of the deck and opening would be great,thanks! :cheers:
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Marc and 81 (and Pete),
This is probably pretty much what happened to explain the differences between what appears to be a former hatch and the actual tank compartment.
Once the hatch was done away with, then along came the glass stringer grid. Since the engineers no longer had to worry about designing the tank compartment to suit the hatch, it became whatever suited their fancy. Makes sense to me...
Pete, your 225 has foam filled stringers, but not in an entire grid like the 245/250. Hollow glass stringers and bulkheads were delivered to the plant in pieces, placed into the hull and tabbed together and to the hull buttom, then filled with foam. I would bet the 225 "cut-out" matches the tanks physical size...
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What I did not get (maybe missed it) since the smooth gelcoat outline is NOT the cut out dimension for tank removal, what is?
well, thats just it.. it is and it isnt, lol. basically, yes, it outlines the tank itself, however, it is NOT a guide for cutting due to what's under that outline.
1) the outline in the rear that runs from port-to-starboard is right over a stringer, so, we cut about 3" forward of the line in the rear.
2) the outline that runs from stern to bow, if you were to cut all the way through it, would cut across a stringer that runs from port-to-starboard just under where the center console begins (begins == where you'd be standing if you were driving).
basically, the piece of decking i cut out completely, does not run under the console. its stops just aft of the console. although, the initial 3/4" cut that doesnt cut through the floor completely, follows the outline entirely, so, i'll need to glass that back in and re-gelcoat it.
when i'm done, i'll have two additional lines running from port-to-starboard.. the one in the back to address item #1, and one in the front to address item #2.
also, the outline itself is only about 22" wide or so b/c the tank is only 21" wide.. now.. try to find a poly tank that is only 21" wide and holds north of 140 gallons... this is why i re-ordered the tank from the same mfg.
81,
So your indicating that removing the console is not necessary because there is a cross brace aft of the console that creates the forward wall of the tank coffin? And, 3" forward of the aft "molded in line" would miss the aft cross brace which creates the rear wall of the tank coffin? And use the fore and aft "molded lines" as a guide to cut through the middle of? Do I have it or not?? So I'm thinking ( :scratch: ) If I popped the pie plate over the tank, ran a tape FWD and Aft, and measured where it hit, I would come up short of the console, and short of the aft side-to-side molded line? Thanks
Marc
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So your indicating that removing the console is not necessary because there is a cross brace aft of the console that creates the forward wall of the tank coffin?
There is a brace, but not a wall. the wall that separates the gas tank compartment from the fresh water tank compartment is further towards the bow. That wall is roughly halfway through the inside of the center console.
If you can figure out a way to cut the floor without unbolting the console, then you could get away with out touching it, but, chances are, you'd at least have to unbolt it and raise it like i did in order to have room to work under/near it.
And, 3" forward of the aft "molded in line" would miss the aft cross brace which creates the rear wall of the tank coffin? And use the fore and aft "molded lines" as a guide to cut through the middle of? Do I have it or not??
Yes, That sounds correct. The "molded lines" that run in the stern-to-bow direction, if you cut them out, are just a teeny bit wider than the tank itself (about 23" wide and the tank is 21" wide). it's the lines that run port-to-starboard that are misleading.
So I'm thinking ( :scratch: ) If I popped the pie plate over the tank, ran a tape FWD and Aft, and measured where it hit, I would come up short of the console, and short of the aft side-to-side molded line? Thanks
Marc
not exactly..... in your mind, separate the "brace" that runs port-to-starboard under the console from the "wall" that ends the gas tank compartment. the "wall" is ..umm.. i dont know.. 24" or so forward of the brace.. maybe more.. im not at home to measure right now..
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If your boat is like mine, and the round hatches on the floor are installed at the factory, then you'll have a round hatch that almost touches the console. if you have that round hatch, imagine the cut that runs from port-to-starboard will cut into that hatche's hole all the way forward.
better yet, if you have that round hatch, open it, and you'll see the brace right there.
also feel the fiberglass with your hand in that area and you'll see how impossible it would be to cut over/around it.
short of removing the whole deck/floor, which i really dont want to do, i dont see how else the gas tank could be pulled out.
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I think I have the picture in my head, I guess more pics like Pete said, of the deck and console area with the "hatch" removed will help. Thanks
Marc
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Tank order placed.
Estimated ship date 9/29.
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$1400 seems steep, did you get a second estimate from a local fabricator?
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yes, local estimate was $1200.. but that was without any of the fittings. FMT's tanks come complete with everything assembled, tested, and ready to rock.
add the fact that i'm able to customize the drawings/specs to my liking, so, FMT gets the nod.
basically, its approximately $9-$10/gallon for a custom-built gas tank most places i got an estimate from.
FMT's video of their facility helped sway my decision too.
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$10 PER GAL is about right,and they make a quality product :salut:
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sorry, its dark and raining outside and the boat has a 19'x29' tarp over it..pics are not the best quality.
here's the forward part of the access hatch i cut out. you can see where it cut into the round pie hatch in the front.
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0785.jpg)
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0786.jpg)
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Dan Aykroyd (Elwood Blues): ... it's 106 miles to Chicago, we got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark and we're wearing sunglasses ...
sorry,you just reminded me of that,nice job cutting the hatch,got any pics of the hole? :salut:
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lemme get 4 whole fried chickens and 2 white toast and a coke....We're getting the band back together!
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you got it! :cheers: one of my favs,after Rambo of course
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"We're on a mission from God"
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ive always been kinda partial to "top gun" and "the professional".. no homo... :lol:
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81 i want to thank you for this topic,it hits close to home for many of us,i can't tell you how many times i looked at that tank hatch and wonderd what the heck i would do if i had to get that tank out.
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you're welcome!
although... i cant say that i'm happy to be the one to have to answer the question for us.. LOL..
:eye:
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81 i want to thank you for this topic,it hits close to home for many of us,i can't tell you how many times i looked at that tank hatch and wonderd what the heck i would do if i had to get that tank out.
X2,glad you brought the thread over from THT,keep us posted
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I got a question. :scratch:
Can water flow from the bow section (think front compartment/bilge) through the tank coffin and into the rear bilge?
Another question.
Does the tank sit on a raised section (think wood/fiberglass shelf)?
Answer yes to these and I'll add more.
Thanks.
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GREAT QUESTIONS.
Can water flow from the bow section (think front compartment/bilge) through the tank coffin and into the rear bilge?
YES.. but ONLY if the drain hole in the tank coffin area is NOT PLUGGED.. mine was.. there was some dried glue-type-gunk that was broken into chunks blocking the drain. Im convinced this contributed to the demise of my tank.
Another question. Does the tank sit on a raised section (think wood/fiberglass shelf)?
its supposed to, mine didnt. it was one a couple of measly rubber strips.. tiny, measly rubber pieces.
i plan on 5200'ing some 3/4" high plastic blocks on the bottom of the tank that will run the length of the whole tank (think bow to stern). I plan on running two strips so i can leave a channel in the middle between them. This way, water can flow around the outside of the tank, and down through the middle beneath it. I plan on putting rubber strips under these plastic blocks for shock absorption. this way, the tank itself does not sit on water and is not in constant contact with moisture on the bottom. This new tank and installation method *should* outlast this boat. There's also the braces above the tank that hold it in place as well.
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The PROPER way to build the boat, any boat, is to have a sub-floor in the fuel tank compartment that allows the fore compartments to drain underneath to the aft compartments. The tank compartment itself would have a separate drain aft...
Apparently, the higher ups at AS/WC didn't think that was necessary at that time, as they allowed drainage from the fore compartments to run through the tank compartment, and any loose foam or debris that could cause a blockage would basically allow the tank to swim in water... :x :x :x
Sorry guys, I just built them...
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seabob, what do you think about the high end boats like Contenders that foam their tanks in?... and of course, dont provide access hatches for them..
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Received plastic pieces and rubber strips that the gas tank will sit on.
once the gas tank gets here, i can 5200 the plastic strips to the gas tank.
this will create some distance between the floor and the tank as well as create a channel water can run beneath the tank
the plastic does not absorb moisture so there is less chance of "crevice corrosion".
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0808.jpg)
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0809.jpg)
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My 89 250CCP does have that hatch. So I would not have to cut it the way you did.
My Neighbor has a 29 Prosport. I was checking his house one day during the summer and noticed gas dripping out of the stern drain.
He had no deck hatch either. They had to take the entire deck/ttop off to replace the tank. It coast him 6K if i remember correctly.
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It coast him 6K if i remember correctly.
do you remember if his tank was poly or alum? also, what size?
so far, I'm into this project:
$1400 = tank (alum ~130 gals)
$100 = parts (plastic, rubber strips, shop supplies, etc)
I still haven't purchased:
1) the new SS Hardware I'll be using yet when i put everything back together
2) the fiberglass/resin/gelcoat
3) shipping for the tank
I'll try to post a total of costs when I'm done.
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My rebuild talks about the same thing with the drain holes plugged by glue or foam, causing damage to the deck. this seems to be an ongoing issue with the aquasport. We looked at another 225 just like mine where they had to cut the deck out like I am doing. If you have these models I would check those drains down in the hull to stop any type of damage this could cause. good luck with the rebuild.
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seabob, what do you think about the high end boats like Contenders that foam their tanks in?... and of course, dont provide access hatches for them..
My take on foaming in tanks. While foaming will certainly ensure a secure install, the problem lies in keeping ANY kind of water out of the tank compartment. Water has an insidious way of getting in between the foam and the tank, where it is trapped, and thus just sits there and starts to work it's corrosive magic on the tank, as well as degrading the foam until it gets to this point...
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/MarcLillis224Mako/100_0568.jpg)
This was on an older Mako 224, where the foam had turned to jelly, and there was also evidence of a tank leak (smell). Now, granted, today's foams are a lot better from a physical characteristic standpoint as opposed to foams used 15-20 years ago. Nonetheless, keeping water out of the tank compartment is paramount.
Contender is not the only builder that foams in their tanks. That's their call. Myself? I'd use a poly tank, build the tank compartment properly (totally separate from any other compartment, with it's own drainage), and install truly waterproof inspection hatches over the fill/vent fittings and the sender/pickup area.
Just the way I would do it...
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Bob what hatches would you use, to be truly water proof?
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It coast him 6K if i remember correctly.
do you remember if his tank was poly or alum? also, what size?
so far, I'm into this project:
$1400 = tank (alum ~130 gals)
$100 = parts (plastic, rubber strips, shop supplies, etc)
I still haven't purchased:
1) the new SS Hardware I'll be using yet when i put everything back together
2) the fiberglass/resin/gelcoat
3) shipping for the tank
I'll try to post a total of costs when I'm done.
I think it was 150 gal aluminum.
But the big cost was to remove the entire deck moulding to get to the tank without cutting.
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But the big cost was to remove the entire deck moulding to get to the tank without cutting.
holy crap.. i never thought of that... YIKES
that wouldnt be possible with my boat. both the previous owner and I both made reinforcements to bond the top cap and bottom cap together a little more permanently than how it came from the factory (we both glassed the insides quite a bit).
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My 99 Osprey 245 TM has a poly tank...when I popped the pie plate behind the council to access some wiring a while back....I saw no/minimal water intrusion in the tank compartment...(I feel very lucky right now)...I did replace all the o-rings on all the Rabud pie plates ....they were getting a little hard.
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I ran all new fuel lines throughout the whole boat yesterday... cost $73
Got a call from FMT this morning, tank ships today.
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I received the tank yesterday and started prepping it for install.
i 5200'd the 3" wide plastic strips to the bottom of the tank.
today a friend of mine came over and we dropped it into the tank cavity.
all i can say is thank god i ordered it 3" shorter and 1" lower and moved the filler/vent neck a few inches back. it BARELY went in. Felt like Operation the game.
Oh, on a side note.. the driver of the truck that delivered it, had my same name. first and last. true story. :lol:
progress continues.
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0842.jpg)
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0844.jpg)
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0845.jpg)
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My 99 Osprey 245 TM has a poly tank...when I popped the pie plate behind the council to access some wiring a while back....I saw no/minimal water intrusion in the tank compartment...(I feel very lucky right now)...I did replace all the o-rings on all the Rabud pie plates ....they were getting a little hard.
245 Ospreys had 141 gallon aluminum tanks...225 Ospreys, 102 gallon poly tanks...
And in '99, the 245 had already become the 250...
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nice tank!too bad you have to cover it up! :salut:
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81,
Good deal. The true Pascoe method.
I'll be doing the same. So curious...what type of plastic base did you select as the runners?
Thanks.
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3" Wide ABS Plastic, 1/2" High. There are four 3' strips under the tank (2 on each side of the tank).
Next step is to take the boat to an aluminum fab shop here.
I'm having them:
1) create new straps for the tank (really, more like brackets) to hold it down (2 of these)
2) create some custom cross-braces made out of aluminum ladder rungs that will be used to help support the floor over the tank (3 of these)
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went to Fiberglass Coatings, Inc today
it's like a candy store for fiberglass supplies!!
thank god i'm not modifying/repairing jetskis anymore...
add another $125 to the project for fiberglass/supplies
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0846.jpg)
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I'll shortly be looking at a new tank myself. Can someone tell me what are the advantages of a poly tank vs. aluminum? Where can you buy poly tanks?
Many thanks!
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3" Wide ABS Plastic, 1/2" High. There are four 3' strips under the tank (2 on each side of the tank).
Next step is to take the boat to an aluminum fab shop here.
I'm having them:
1) create new straps for the tank (really, more like brackets) to hold it down (2 of these)
2) create some custom cross-braces made out of aluminum ladder rungs that will be used to help support the floor over the tank (3 of these)
I'm curious to see how this part goes. Can you make sure you take pics of the brackets and braces? I'm trying to figure out how you plan on securing it. Why did you choose not to 5200 the plastic strips to the inside of the coffin or is there not really a based to glue to?
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Why did you choose not to 5200 the plastic strips to the inside of the coffin or is there not really a based to glue to?
because besides raising the tank, i also wanted to provide some form of shock absorption.
if i 5200'd the plastic to the floor then i'd have to put the rubber strips between the tank and the plastic. i dont want the tank making direct contact with the rubber due to potential crevice corrosion.
with the plastic mated directly to the tank and 5200'd all the way around (no water can seep in between the plastic and the tank), theres a significantly decreased risk of crevice corrosion.
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I'll shortly be looking at a new tank myself. Can someone tell me what are the advantages of a poly tank vs. aluminum? Where can you buy poly tanks?
Many thanks!
The basics...
Poly? No corrosion. Impervious to water. No bonding required.
Aluminum? Can be fabbed to any dimension with no molds. Can be fabbed to fit any cavity (coffin).
Poly? Limited to the sizes available (they are made from existing molds, after all...)
So, Poly has a lot going for it, more so than aluminum. At least in my opinion. So why buy aluminum? To get the tank that is the right size for your fuel compartment. Other than that, if you can get close to the previous size going poly, that's the route I'd go...
The 2 biggest suppliers are Inca Tanks (Nashville, TN) and Moeller Tanks...
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So why buy aluminum? To get the tank that is the right size for your fuel compartment.
Thats the ONLY reason i went with Aluminum.
Poly was my first choice.
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4 new control cables... might as well replace those while everythings apart.. $150..
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sorry i havent updated in a while.. i'll post an update and pics tomorrow.
almost done with project.
i was planning to just drop the piece i had cut out right back in and closing it up,but i ended up splitting the the top half from the bottom half and replacing all the balsa core with 3/4" A-A marine plywood.
the last of the fiberglass work is in the garage curing right now..
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Here's a shot of the floor support i built. remember, i cut the hatch out at a 15 degree angle all around, so, the lip also provides some support the whole 3/4" around the cutout.
These are aluminum ladder rungs i just cut to 38"
You can see the bolts holding them up and they're also 5200'd to the floor.
I used the same strip of aluminum ladder rungs to build the braces over the gas tank (they sit about 1/2" above the tank)
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/IMAG0034.jpg)
the strip that runs under the leaning post also acts as a backing plate for the leaning post
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Just when I thought I was ready to drop the hatch back in and start closing it up, i took another good look at the wood core inside the hatch and decided i wasnt happy with it.
so, i split open the hatch cover and chipped out the wood inside
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0059.jpg)
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0060.jpg)
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0061.jpg)
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I went out and bought some marine plywood and cut out a new interior for the gas tank hatch floor.
then i rolled a few layers of resin on both sides (and edges) and layed about 6 layers of glass down on the bottom side (3 layers of chopped glass and 3 layers of mat).
i cut out some mat squares and glassed extra support under the pie plate holes where the top piece screws into the bottom
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0062.jpg)
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0063.jpg)
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here's a close-up of one of the two gas tank braces.
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0018.jpg)
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i reglassed the top piece on to the marine plywood.. and mocked it up..
looks ready for final reassembly.
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/GeekedUpFL/gas%20tank/IMAG0074.jpg)
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Looks great!Almost done congrats! :salut:
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My 99 Osprey 245 TM has a poly tank...when I popped the pie plate behind the council to access some wiring a while back....I saw no/minimal water intrusion in the tank compartment...(I feel very lucky right now)...I did replace all the o-rings on all the Rabud pie plates ....they were getting a little hard.
245 Ospreys had 141 gallon aluminum tanks...225 Ospreys, 102 gallon poly tanks...
And in '99, the 245 had already become the 250...
Bob....My 99 Osprey TM does have a poly tank (it's a 99..I checked my serial #)....and my factory 1999 brochure calls it a 245 Osprey ...was there a model transision that year maybe ?