Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Electrical => Topic started by: wpt03osprey on August 22, 2011, 02:53:38 PM
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2003 Aquasport Osprey T top
I have 2 overhead lights on this boat that are wired into dash on toggle switch with re-settable circuit breaker.
These light stay on for 4-5 minutes then trip breaker, after cooling a while it will work again for another 4-5 minutes.
any ideas , a short , or too small a breaker for these lights
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What wattage are ya runnin'? Two 55 watt bulbs may be too much - if you are running high watt bulbs, switch to LEDs and your current will go way down.
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The standard breaker that the lights run off of (ACC switch) was a 10A. On T/Top boats, I switched it out to a 15...
But ScarabChris's LEDs, which are awesome? Both lights won't even draw 2As...
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Here's what one can do on a 28 Pursuit...1 spreader!
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/Pursuit%2028/100_0695.jpg)
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had the same problem with my spreader lights,put a larger breaker in :cheers:
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Here's what one can do on a 28 Pursuit...1 spreader!
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/Pursuit%2028/100_0695.jpg)
That's what you want. High output...low draw.
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Chris' lights look good also. Here's the pair I installed on a H-S 22WA on the arch...
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/Proline%20website%20pics/Hydrasports%2021WA/100_0096.jpg)
And the look they gave at night...
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/Proline%20website%20pics/Hydrasports%2021WA/100_0099.jpg)
Ran them both using a 5A breaker...
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fully agree on the LEDs, they are the way to go. However, if this tripping is something that has just recently started on the lights, that previously worked ok, find the butt connectors where they were spliced in, and you'll probably find green corrosion, creating a high resistance and thus a higher load on the circuit, and tripping the already borderline capacity breaker. Just a thought
Marc
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fully agree on the LEDs, they are the way to go. However, if this tripping is something that has just recently started on the lights, that previously worked ok, find the butt connectors where they were spliced in, and you'll probably find green corrosion, creating a high resistance and thus a higher load on the circuit, and tripping the already borderline capacity breaker. Just a thought
Marc
^^^^^^^^^^
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Mark,you are probly right! :cheers: