Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 22-2 Rebuilds => Topic started by: love2fish on May 25, 2011, 06:54:43 PM
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Just picked up a 74 22-2. It has a t-top, 140 evinrude, and soft floor. My plan is to use the boat as is for now and work on it as I go. The grand plan is to replace the current motor, close in the transom, replace the floor. For starters I need to atleast recore the coffin lid. Does anyone know what thickness the core wood is in them (coffin lids)?
Thanks in advance.
I'll post pics when i get time tonight.
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(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/CopyofPicture036.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture042.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture052.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture051.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture043.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture037.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture038.jpg)
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Nice looking classic :thumright: your plan sounds good, might as well get the use from her this summer, then dig in over the fall and winter. BTW, it may be an optical illusion, but the trailer looks way short for the boat? Looks like there is a lot of hull hanging aft of the rear cross member and bunks?? Maybe just the pics? Cheers
Marc
PS: someone will answer your coring question, I don't have the answer, other than look at the depth of the lip of the cover? I would guess somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4... :scratch:
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trailer is definately too short, I have a trailer that is the correct size that I'm going to switch it out with.
Anyone want to buy the bow rail and/or the capitan's chairs?
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Hey - sorry, didn't see these pics before I replied to you. Please post pics from the stern, just want to see the back.
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My 83 had 1/2" marine ply cut into three strips running front to back and then bedded into not enough resin. In replacing the very wet ply with divinycell I probably shaved 70 lbs off the weight of the thing.
Nice looking project!
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Interesting ID tag for a 1974 22-2. The 74' should have had the hull ID embossed on the outside of the transom right below the rubrail. It does look original but for a pre 72' hull. Do you have hull ID numbers on the transom? 1974 hull should have been 230hp max. What does your title say? You probably will get rid of the original ventilation system and port hull vent as most seem to do; but I do have a killer replacement vent made out of teak the really looks nice on these hulls.
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I just noticed on the transom picture you have the original factory junction box cover for the engine battery cables. I have exactly the same one on my 73' not that they were all that but still very rare to see one. Very nice original classic that still is in usable condition. Do you know if it has the original gas tank with the direct reading fuel gage in the floor? Should plan on replacing it while you have the coffin hatch out.
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Mine still has the original gas tank with the fuel guage mounted on it. I plan on switching to a fuel sending unit when i replace the coffin lid. Do you know how deep/tall these tanks are? I think I've seen the sending units offered as 9" and 14" set ups. (and obviously I'd measure the tank when i get the lid off). Any good places to buy one? I live in tampa but travel all over the gulf coast for work.
I checked the exterior of the hull and there's no hull stamp on the exterior. It doesnt look like anything has been repainted or covered over through.
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Wow! original gas tank. You will need to remove it and inspect the bottom exterior for corrosion. Often times the tanks look great from the top and really bad on the bottom. You can get the tank and coffin lid out without removing the console. There are lots of threads here dealing with the entire process including sourcing a new tank. Sounds like you have a transition 72' hull; maybe a very early one that was the first year of the V bottom, but identified like a 71'. The law changed in 72' where boats had to have hull ID numbers molded into the hull and capacity plates had more information about loading and horsepower. Your transom seems to be pretty crack free and in nice shape on the exterior anyway. It sounds like you know what you bought and know that the beauty is pretty much skin deep on a 40 year old hull. I`m in the same position; just using her until she has a day with the sawsall to bring her back to new condition. I know I'm prejudice but I think these early 70`s V bottoms were the prettiest boats they ever made!
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(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/consolenewhatch.jpg)
While my truck is in the shop I'm taking care of some little projects on the boat; cleaning up the gunwale rod holders and replaced the canvas console cover with this starboard door I made today.
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On the front casting deck, there's the front insulated compartment, aft of that is the larger 2 hatch compartment. In this aft compartment, mine has a 1 1/2" hole drilled in one of the corners for drainage: this is just a rough hole with no fitting or drain line connected to it that I can tell. Is this something that is supposed to be there and some of the parts are missing, or is it just a makeshift "fix" from one of the previous owners?
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No hole should be there. The design of the lid and lip does a good job of keeping water out. I just gave mine a bath yesterday and no water in the boxes.
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(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/transomsanded.jpg)
Started sanding the bottom paint off today- 3 layers.
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Pretty sure my neighbors hate me after today- sanded off the bottom paint along both gunwales.
Do I need to put any kind of primer or sealant on the areas where I sanded before I put it in the water? I didnt sand through/too far anywhere so the original gelcoat is still intact (no exposed glass). There is a noticable difference in the texture where the bottom paint has been sanded off.
Thanks
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No problems, only solutions. Ask the neighbors over for burgers tomorrow afternoon.
You're down to gel...perfect. No need for sealers, special attention, etc. Throw that girl in the water in the morning, and let her hunt :thumright:
If you want to address anything later on...gel over gel.
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among other projects- I popped the fuel tank lid off yesterday- its soaked. Barely needed a prybar to pull the bottom off of it. Here's some pictures:
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/soaked.jpg)
before pulling out the wood (or whats left of it).
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/samded.jpg)
got all the wet plywood out of it and sanded off any of the wood that actually stuck to it and roughed up the resin in preparation for re-coring it.
(Going to lay a layer of matt onto the bottom of the existing skin and then lay some 1/2" marine plywood into it (as its still wet/tacky) and then add a few layers of 1708 to the bottom to encapsolate it. And then a layer or 2 of paint. Sound like a plan?
(just a temp fix to get me through the summer till I can work on redoing the whole floor this winter)
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when you lay the new core into the "lid"- what do you do about the edge where the original sides join the new core?
Do you sand the outside lip of the lid and wrap the glass around to that or do you just but maybe fill it with resin?
Thanks
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Love2, Lewis got a nice job recently:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6907 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6907)
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sweet, thanks for the update! I remembered reading that post somewhere and couldnt find it.
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Whats the condition of your front hatches? There is something in the works to have the molds to be able to replace them with new originals if your so inclined.
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Fritz:my front hatches are good,no cracks, breaks, all edges are good. The front "ice box" hatch might eventually need a recore, but for now its good.
Has anyone changed out the latch ( I have the original "washer on a bolt" set up).. the aft 2 hatches (the double hatched compartment on the casting deck) doesnt have any pull tabs or way to secure them, I was thinking of putting lockable latches on them eventually.
What kind of hatches are you thinking of making? your more than welcome to use mine as a mold if you need to.
I was looking around under the casting platform yesterday and noticed there is a ton of room forward of the coffin box/ between the console and casting deck: could be a great place to put a hatch and fit some kind of storage for a cast net or extra gear maybe. I'd want something flush mounted there though, similar to how Rich did the aft bilge access hatch on his 22-2.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture015.jpg)
bad picture, but lots of room down there...
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Thanks for the offer on the hatches. Mine are also in nice shape except for the fishbox hatch that needs to be replaced; the coring was perfect but the glass was breaking around the perimeter of the hatch so we are popping some molds off of them and building new replacement hatches that are identical to the originals for Scott's rebuild in North Carolina. I shipped mine up there to his boat builder. They've already managed to find the original supplier in Texas of the diamond non skid pattern to be used in the mold insert for the exact match. So these will be exact replicas with foam coring. So if anyone needs them they should be available on a special order basis with as close a match to the original "lima bean green" gelcoat if desired sometime later this year.
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Speaking of that color- is anyone else's extremely hot? I like the original color and everything but think when i eventually redo the floor, I'm going to go with the khaki or white Kiwi Grip...
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Oh yea it gets hot in the summer. All you have to do is go back to the water cooled aft deck were the water comes in through the scuppers and cool your feet off and your good for a couple more laps around boat in bare feet. Maybe we have unlocked the mystery of the low scuppers. "The new 73' models offer the Florida edition aft deck to keep you and yours feet cool during those hot summer day's" the add could have read...
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Could be onto something there!
My boat actually stays pretty dry (scuppers are about 1/2" out of water when I'm standing in the back of the boat (I'm about 210lbs). Its a different story when theres a few people in the boat. but it seems like there would be no problem at all if the scuppers were actually "Floor level" and not at the bottom of the trough.
Non of which will really matter when the new raised floor goes in and the transom gets inclosed (new scupper height or scuppers out the sides).
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Thanks for the offer on the hatches. Mine are also in nice shape except for the fishbox hatch that needs to be replaced; the coring was perfect but the glass was breaking around the perimeter of the hatch so we are popping some molds off of them and building new replacement hatches that are identical to the originals for Scott's rebuild in North Carolina. I shipped mine up there to his boat builder. They've already managed to find the original supplier in Texas of the diamond non skid pattern to be used in the mold insert for the exact match. So these will be exact replicas with foam coring. So if anyone needs them they should be available on a special order basis with as close a match to the original "lima bean green" gelcoat if desired sometime later this year.
Fitz has graciously shipped his original '73 22-2 hatches to a Carolina builder, Seamark Boats http://www.seamarkboats.com/Models_2200___2000.html (http://www.seamarkboats.com/Models_2200___2000.html)
They have been asked to reproduce our hatches, in the correct 1970's lima bean green color if desired. Once the mold of the 70's 22-2 hatches is duplicated....quality reproductions should be available.
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(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/nobowrail.jpg)
Removed the bow rail this AM also. I think it looks much better. I have a bunch of holes to fill and eventually plan to Kiwi-grip the cap.
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Looks much better with out the bow rail in my opinion.
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Looks much better with out the bow rail in my opinion.
i agree!
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Thanks! I agree! just gotta work on that motor and then maybe switch out the Ttop for a tower!
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cleaning up the teak on the boat and started on the console- the teak table on the drink tray of the console- there's a screw on the inside of the consle on the "forward" side but nothing accessable on the aft side. Has anyone ever taken these out/off? I removed the screws but they are still wedged in there pretty good. wanted some advice if anyone has removed them before i break them trying to removed them or just sand in place.
Thanks
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I noticed some brown stains on the bow liner after a good wash or rain, started removing the anchor rigging and vents and found some soaked wood. the whole starboard half was soaked and all along the aft before the "lip". I know idealy removing the core from the bottom is the way to go, but i didnt have a way to remove the whole liner and flip it. And I planned on removing any hardware/rigging from the bow cap anyway and non-skidding it. So with that, i started:
-cut out everything that was wet and then some
-layed down a layer of 1708
-1/2" marine ply
-biscuit joint style slivers to join the new piece with the existing (to prevent any cracking)
-i had some cabisol i mixed with resin to fill in any voids around the wood so there's a solid fill all the way around.
-layer of 1708
(layer of 1708 along the bottom side also. trickey upside down).
Already it feels very solid and strong but I want to make sure it's not going to have any problems with me standing up there fishing/throwing a net. I have room for 2 more layers of 1708 and then some mat (wanted a top layer or 2 of mat for sanding). What do you recommend for a "filler" I dont want to use body filler for the whole thing. Maybe something like Awlfair or a similar product. I plan on painting over this with a basic white and then kiwi gripping the entire cap (laying out non-skid sections). Do i even need to worry about a filler in the body of the recore or just around the joints?
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/firstply.jpg)
Here's the piece i replaced before i got the 1st layer of glass on it.
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Hi,
The last pic was good, but could you post a few more from a distance, in perspective?
Thanks.
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(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/glassed.jpg)
Here's a pic without the tarp on the tip of the bow. Not really sure how much more of a perspective you need.
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whenever the weather clears for a long enough time, I plan to sand more of a perimiter around the existing new class and lay a larger piece (to about 1 inch from the rub rail). I think that will give me a smooth enough transition. Its already a lot stronger than before the recore.
What do you all recommend as far as my next step after the final glass goes down?
-sand to smooth
-wipe/clean with (acetone or denatured alcohol)?
Do I need to prime or can i put a base coat of topside paint down?
My final top coating will be Kiwi Grip.
Thanks
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L2F,
What do you think the max depth is you are going to fill after you level with glass and ply is?
Awlfair is great but I would not go more than a skim coat.
Kedd
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(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/glassed.jpg)
Here's a pic without the tarp on the tip of the bow. Not really sure how much more of a perspective you need.
Thanks for that...the tarp and the bubbly stuff aft of it had me goofed.
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The grey kiwi grip is very light and does not get that hot, not close to as dark as it is in the pic's. i think the white would glare bad.
Capt matt
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Kedd- exactly, i was thinking of just a skimcoat- (if that is even necessary). my top layer of glass is pretty smooth. And I've never put down a non-skid before so i wasnt sure how much any "imperfections" would show (or the slight pattern of the glass).
I guess the best way to ask is:
Does the underneath layer need to be completely smooth of can you just glass, undercoat, non-skid?
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I'd skim coat it. You'll (probably) find more imperfections than you think.
That being said, it doesn't have to be PERFECT.
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I've been very busy with work so i havent had a lot of time to work on the boat but i did manage to buy and refinish a teak swim platform and get the bow cap repair 90% finished.
Swim platform before i started on it.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture001-1.jpg)
after sanding.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture003-1.jpg)
What do you think of the location? it sits just above the water line and i have plenty of clearance for the motor.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture011.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture012.jpg)
I also purchased a transom anchor- similar to the Wang Anchors. 5" set back, 10' anchor pin. Works really well!
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture015-1.jpg)
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Team platform looks sharp! Isn't there suppose to be a fold down step?
You stated "like a Wang", is it not a Wang?
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Looks like you are going to keep the teak accents? A little trick I did to keep my loose rod racks in place was to remove the screws at the base, open up the holes in the liner to 3/8 and install rubber well nuts. They are a flanged little rubber plug with an overmolded brass 1/4-20 threaded insert. Push then in the hole and reattach the rod rack with 1/4-20 stainless screws and tighten them up to swell up the rubber plug and tighten the screws. Worked perfectly, I've only had to resnug them up one time in the last two years. No more wollowed out screw holes and loose racks. You may have to cut the screws to the right lenght to keep them from bottoming out in the inside wall of the outer skin as they are tightened, no big deal.
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Blue- no, found them on ebay- search "Dig-In anchors". really good deals! choice of 8 or 10ft anchor pins. A buddy of mine has 1 on his Shearwater and it works great for anchoring or as a push pole. Platform- the platform didnt have a fold down step when i purchased it, but I have one, just havent mounted it yet.
Fitz- I appriciate the tip! I'll look into it! I have tightened mine up a few times.
On a side note- I had a mechanic look at my motor and he said one of the pistons has either slipped,cracked, or warped a ring and thats why the fuel gets "recirculated" back through the carb like it was doing. (what I described as "spitting")... so basically he said it required a rebuild which would be about $1700-2000.
Does that sound right to any of you who have experience with motors? (It's an '85 Evinrude 140 looper).
If it's in need of a rebuild I'm thinking I'll either sell it as is for a parts motor or part it out and start looking for a different motor.
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A chipped or stuck open reed valve or lower or upper crankshaft seal. Look for oil running down the block from underneath the flywheel or pull the lower unit and look for gas/oil running down the driveshaft. It may show up as a dryer sparkplug than the rest on the top two or bottom two cylinders. Do a compression test to varify the ring issue but I doubt thats it.
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A chipped or stuck open reed valve or lower or upper crankshaft seal. Look for oil running down the block from underneath the flywheel or pull the lower unit and look for gas/oil running down the driveshaft. It may show up as a dryer sparkplug than the rest on the top two or bottom two cylinders. Do a compression test to varify the ring issue but I doubt thats it.
You potentially just saved love2 some serious change. Nice work bro.
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Heck yeah! Thanks Fitz! I'll check that out!
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Fitz you're the man! finally had time to mess with the motor today, pulled the carbs off and found a zip-tie and the straw from a carb cleaner can/wd-40/something wedged in the reed cavity. the zip tie was actually wedged in one of the reed valve/flaps. I could hear it "snap" shut when i pulled it out.
So the batteries are charging and I'm gonna fire it up Monday (I figure I'll let the neighborhood have a quiet day tomorrow!)
VERY OPTIMISTIC!!! Merry Christmas everyone! enjoy your time with friends and family!
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here's what i found wedged in the reeds. (quarter in there for scale).
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/stuffinthereeds.jpg)
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That is really effed up!!!
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Fitz won't steer you wrong - finding that junk in the reed valves just saved you a ton in repairs! :thumleft:
Merry Christmas! :santa:
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Started cleaning up the top of the console today. removed the bilge switch, running lights switch and the accessory power outlet. (all to be relocated eventually).
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/before.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/after.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/withwheel.jpg)
The white is a little off, but it's close enough for now. Also sanded and restained the wheel center cap and sanded and painted the helm.
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Made some good progress on the console this weekend:
The start/when i bought the boat:
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture051.jpg)
New teak top plate, sanded the Helm brace/ and painted it, sanded down the throttle controls and painted that also. Put a few coats of exterior clear on them after painting. Much cleaner look now.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/teak.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/teakfromstarboard.jpg)
Also purchased a BlueSea bus bar and started cleaning up the wiring... holy birds' nest! Probably removed a basketball size bundle of wiring. I'll post pictures when i get finished/it's daylight.
Also have to work on the top of the console where the compass is. I want to remove the black plexi piece and either have white fiberglass finished or white starboard...
I am thinking about cutting out the 2 diagonal bars that brace the top at the center of the console and have them rewelded onto the top cross bar that goes across just above the windshield. Same andlges for the strength... Should they be able to weld galvanized aluminum?
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Should they be able to weld galvanized aluminum?
Maybe you mean anodized aluminum. :scratch:
Obviously it can be done. (witness your T top). You'll need someone with the proper equipment and skill.
Good luck.
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I am thinking about cutting out the 2 diagonal bars that brace the top at the center of the console and have them rewelded onto the top cross bar that goes across just above the windshield. Same andlges for the strength... Should they be able to weld galvanized aluminum?
There is a guy right on West Shore approximately two blocks north of me that welds, stop by and talk to him. Real nice fellow.
Also have to work on the top of the console where the compass is. I want to remove the black plexi piece and either have white fiberglass finished or white starboard...
How about another piece of teak to go with the piece you just installed.
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Very nice! You've inspired me to do a similar project. Did you use standard spraypaint for the throttle?
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What ever happened with your motor? Did you run it? Last I saw you pulled some junk out of the reeds. Man I'll bet if you sent it of to be rebuilt they would have never told you about that and just hit you for $2 large!
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Bob- thanks for the correction- I wasnt sure the process of whether they had to weld and then treat the welds or if the aluminum was already anodized and they just have to use a specific type/method of welding.
Blue- I'm pretty sure I'm familiar with the guy you're talking about- has a big sign in his yard right?
I think I'm going to end up with another piece of teak along the top edge of the console with maybe a lip/raised edge to keep stuff up there from sliding off.
CT- I sanded everything and then primed the aluminum steering piece before a few coats of regular spray paint, then 1 coat of clear. The throttle piece was a "plastic/clossy piece, I sanded it with some 80 grit to scuff it and used a plastic primer spray paint on it first, then a few coats of black. then a few coats of clear on it- I figured it would get handled way more that the piece under the steering wheel.
Wing- Motor is running alot better after cleaning out the reeds- I'm still tracking down a few rough spots on it... but with lots of work all the rough weather we've had lately, I havent had enough time to run it as I'd like. Regarding the shop, i would like to think they would have told me about the stuff in the reeds,,, but you never know these days...
Thanks for the feedback everyone!
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Blue- I'm pretty sure I'm familiar with the guy you're talking about- has a big sign in his yard right?
That's correct Chris
I think I'm going to end up with another piece of teak along the top edge of the console with maybe a lip/raised edge to keep stuff up there from sliding off.
You'll want something that will keep objects in place and let any water out.
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Gotcha. I'd definatley have some kind of drainhole or something.
Thanks again for the gauges,, still planning on using them,,, just waiting for a switch panel before i decide on final placement.
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Gotcha. I'd definatley have some kind of drainhole or something.
Thanks again for the gauges,, still planning on using them,,, just waiting for a switch panel before i decide on final placement.
My pleasure, thanks for the suds.
Fyi, I have a six switch Blue Seas switch panel in the garage.
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Started cleaning up the top of my T-top. It's a roto-molded "hardtop". The paint was starting to flake and looked terrible.
So here's some before and after pictures. I used the Krylon Plasic bonding paint.
Before:
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture003-3.jpg)
after sanding and 2 coats of paint:
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture007-1.jpg)
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Courtesy of Fern... I installed my "new" switch panel this afternoon. Still have to get switch labels but for now i only have running/anchor lights, bilge, and interior lights... all in all, pretty happy!
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/switchpanelinstalled.jpg)
Also while you guys were out on Saturday, I raised my T-top 4 inches for a little better clearance and the possibility of adding a t-bag down the road.
Went over to the east coast to pick up an early birthday present, finally got a livewell/leanpost:
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture007-2.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture004-1.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture006-2.jpg)
Just set it in the boat for the afternoon to see how the size/spacing was. I like it. I'll try to get some better pictures tomorrow.
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Hey that switch panel looks familiar :thumleft:
Chris contact Blue Seas, they sell the labels.
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Hey Fern...way to help out a bro :thumright:
And love2...lookin' good! And wassup with that blue rubrail? You're in high cotton there :wink:
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Thanks! Its a work in progress, but I'm happy to have something to sit on while driving now. regarding the Blue rubrail= it's PAINTER'S TAPE!!!! I was taping off the rubrail in prep for priming the cap, but the pollen/wind wasnt working.
Gonna have to breakout my canopy and make a paint booth I think.
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Very nice nevertheless, and great job :thumright:
That guy with the blue rubrail...he's safe for now... :mrgreen:
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Thank you sir!
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Finally had a chance to work on the livewell! had to change up the drain location and modify the bait tank a bunch. Closed up the original 3/4" "end of day" drain that was on the side and added a bottom of the tank 1 1/2" drain that has a tube/overflow drain. then I added a LED to the bottom of the tank.
In the bilge area, I re-routed the bilge pump wires through the tank coffin area through the rear bulkhead into the bilge via a thru-hull and then ran all the wires through that.
1 Bilge
2 bait tank LED
3 Bilge LED
4 bilge area ground for the bus bar.
I built the leanpost flange out of mahogany and sealed it with Thompson's water seal. Let it set up for 48 hours and it worked great. accidently sprayed it with water today and the water beaded up on it so I'm pretty happy. if it needs replaced in a year, the mahogany was way cheaper than teak so I'll still be ahead of the game.
I also ran the drain lines for the bait tank.
I havent finished everything- no zip-ties on the wires to bundle them and no hose clamps on the drain lines yet. I wanted to run/set everything first and make sure it was all working before i sealed it up.
Here's a few pics of the work in progress.
console: re-routed the wiring underneath the shelf and though 1 hole to the bus bar and then switch panel. Glassed a 1/2" sheet of ply to the inside of the console and then painted. Also sanded and painted the top of the shelf to clean up the console. Looks 100times better. I eventually want to do the same thing to the starboard inside of the console to clean up the bolts holding the charger and battery switch.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture015-2.jpg)
Bilge: drain lines run for the bait tank, wires for the bait tank LED. Not finished yet- still have to zip-tie and hose clamp everything.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture012-1.jpg)
Bait tank lit-up and lean post flange installed:
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture017.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture018.jpg)
Also installed some under-cap LED's last week.
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Good job Chris :salut:
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working on the livewell/plumbing recently.
between thru-hulls, ball valves, fittings, I think I've spent more money on those than I did on the actual lean post! haha.
Still doing research on the pump I'm going to go with, but I have everything installed and finger tight with the 5200. I'll get everything cranked down on Saturday. Also found out my transom is pretty wet (no suprise, but this is the first time I've drilled through enough to really tell). So it looks like I'll be re-doing the transom and floor next fall. Here's the 2 pics I got of the 3/4 intake and the 1 1/2 thru-hull.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture104.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture105.jpg)
The hoses are not hooked up but just temporarly mounted to get my lengths and routing figured out.
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forgot to mention, installed a 3/4" strainer pickup. 5200 to seal the strainer to the hull on the bottom, put a ring of silicone on the inside to help keep the nut secured and any water that's in the bilge out of the hull pad.
Drain is a 1 1/2" threaded thru-hull with a 1 1/2" ball valve with a SS handle. 5200 on the outside, ran a pretty good ring around it, tightened finger tight till it sets up for a day or 2, then I'll get it cranked down tomorrow.
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Finally got around to painting on some non-skid on the bow cap today.. with the sun I could only get the pictures of the bow to show up. pretty happy with it though! Went with an off-white. Stands out against the original gel coat color fairly well without being really different.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/non-skid2.jpg)
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Non-skid looks good!
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Making good progress :salut:
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Installed my 2 new favorite add-ons (to this point!)... 2 rod holders on the bow cap area, found some plastic white rod holders to make sure I liked them before i got some nice SS ones.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/PPDrecord001.jpg)
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Couple more pics from the weekend.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/521472_10150949605643672_1459456855_n-1.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/165881_10150949605683672_250592173_n.jpg)
I was adjusting the idle and noticed that water was dripping out of this area of the motor/hose/fitting yesterday. I was not able to find what is is specifically in my engine manual. Anyone know where a weak spot could be?
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/PPDrecord002-1.jpg)
Where I'm pointing is where the water is dripping from. Wasnt able to get a good angle while at the dock and havent had time to run it at my house yet. (from behind that triangle part of the linkage- whatever that fitting is immediately behind it).
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/PPDrecord003.jpg)
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If I am not mistaken that will be a freeze plug.. It would be best to fix that soon beacause corrosion will start to form between the plug and the block and it will not stop leaking.. Getting the plug out isn't hard, there are a bunch of ways to do it.. I have had good success with drilling a hole in the middle of the plug big enought to get a screw driver in, then prying out the plug with the screw driver against a block of wood to keep from damaging the block.. If the plug wants to be obstinate then a blast of heat normally gets the job done. When the new plug goes in, a skin of high temp silicone around the plug will help to ease it in (some guys are nuts about keeping it dry though so it will release if it actually freezes) and it will also help stop leaks. in the event the sides of the hole got boogered up in the removal process..
Good luck!
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Motor will still occasionally mis-fire. Sometimes it starts right up and runs fine for a couple hours and then will start this... lately is has become more frequent. So far I have:
-rebuilt and cleaned out the carbs
-changed the spark plugs
-compression check- 108 on 1 cylinder. 116-118 on the other 3
-changed the fuel line from the tank to water separator
-changed water separator
-changed primer bulb
-changed inline fuel filter inside the cowling
-changed/upgraded all battery cables (2 gauge for + and -).
-pulled the heads and all cylinders are very smooth/no scaring, no debris, pistons have no play. (new gaskets when heads were put back on).
Also just borrowed a friends 6gal aug tank with fresh gas and tried running the motor off that... as the video shows- it still has a mis-fire.
(http://vid476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/th_PPDrecord005.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/?action=view¤t=PPDrecord005.mp4)
I also noticed a "sludge" draining from around the prop shaft/down the skeg. I have included a picture:
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/PPDrecord006.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/PPDrecord006.jpg.html)
This is a 1985 Evinrude 140 Looper... a previous owner/shop disconnected the VRO so its on a 50:1 mix now.
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Have you checked the spark gap with a tester? If I remember correctly it should be able to throw a 7/16".
The sludge is just unburned fuel oil mix.
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when i replaced the plugs last summer, i set the gap at either .40 or .43... cant remember off the top of my head. I havent checked the gap lately.
My next thing is to check (not sure how to check) or replace is the plug wires. from the looks of them, they are original.. which means 1985.. I'm assuming a bad (or multiple) bad plug wires could cause the intermittent mis-firing and or un-burned fuel that is visible draining from the exhaust.
would bad plug wires cause that kind of mis-firing? Is there a way to check if the plug wires are bad?
sound like I'm narrowing things down in the right order or should I look for something else?
Thanks again!
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when i replaced the plugs last summer, i set the gap at either .40 or .43... cant remember off the top of my head. I havent checked the gap lately.
My next thing is to check (not sure how to check) or replace is the plug wires. from the looks of them, they are original.. which means 1985.. I'm assuming a bad (or multiple) bad plug wires could cause the intermittent mis-firing and or un-burned fuel that is visible draining from the exhaust.
would bad plug wires cause that kind of mis-firing? Is there a way to check if the plug wires are bad?
sound like I'm narrowing things down in the right order or should I look for something else?
Thanks again!
Yes, if they are original, change them. Yes they can cause that type of mis fire. Checking them would be the correct thing to do if they were of newer vintage :)
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thanks for the advice! gonna get those changed out this weekend!
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that thingamajigger is the water control valve
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/PPDrecord003.jpg)
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a148/recklesabandon727/IMG_20130426_173758.jpg)
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when i replaced the plugs last summer, i set the gap at either .40 or .43... cant remember off the top of my head. I havent checked the gap lately. Thanks again!
Not the gap on the plugs!
You can go to NAPA or Carquest and get one of these. It checks the strength of the charge from the power packs. you adjust it to 7/16" inch and crank the motor over with the plugs out. You do this with each plug wire and it will tell you real quick if they are performing correctly.
http://www.amazon.com/Thexton-404-Adjus ... gap+tester (http://www.amazon.com/Thexton-404-Adjustable-Ignition-Tester/dp/B0002STSBM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367085804&sr=8-1&keywords=thexton+spark+gap+tester)
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Changed out the plug wires this morning and she fired right up an idled smoothly!!!!!
When i was removing the old wires- the ends that connect to the block (not the spark ug end) were in bad shape internally- the retainer coil/connection part literally came out of the wire an stayed on the post.
Super greatful for the help and advice and looking forward to giving it a test run tomorrow hopefully!
Thanks again!
quick video of the motor running:
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/th_IMG_5142.jpg) (http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/IMG_5142.mp4)
pic of the lower unit- clean water/no sludge now!
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/clean.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/clean.jpg.html)
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:cheers:
Love when a good plan comes together! Nice work Chris. Now it's time to enjoy the cr@p outta that pretty boat! :salut:
Myself, I just wasted the last two days when I wanted to be boating troubleshooting some PITA trailer wiring only to find out that the trailer wire harness in the truck is bad AGAIN! :evil: Time to order another $45 part that isn't supposed to go bad.
Forgive the minor de-rail. :lol:
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:cheers:
Love when a good plan comes together! Nice work Chris. Now it's time to enjoy the cr@p outta that pretty boat! :salut:
Myself, I just wasted the last two days when I wanted to be boating troubleshooting some PITA trailer wiring only to find out that the trailer wire harness in the truck is bad AGAIN! :evil: Time to order another $45 part that isn't supposed to go bad.
Forgive the minor de-rail. :lol:
No prob! Glad you figured out what was wrong with the lights. I'm still grinning ear to ear here!
A summer of intermittent trouble from the motor and 2 mechanics telling me: "carb jobs, bad fuel", and "A busted piston ring, I've seen and repaired several motors just like that"... and it turns out to be Spark plug wires- THANK YOU CLASSIC AQUASPORT!!!!
Thanks for the compliment on the boat. I started a few projects on her today... I'm going to replace the black plastic piece that makes up the bottom of the electronics box with a teak piece (yes I love teak). Also started pulling the swim platform off and working on a few scrapes and trouble spots on the hull so I can start painting the exterior.
So a painting question: I have my paint and am going to roll/tip to apply it. it says to sand between coats but does not go into specifics.
I have been reading about people's methods while painting, and when roll/tip: several "wet sand" between coats... would you guys recommend wet sanding (as my only sanding option)... or is dry sanding an ok method also... I have read where the poster/painter uses anywhere from 400-800 grit when wet sanding. Then the obvious steps taken to make sure to remove all dust before the next painting session is done.
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I'm still grinning ear to ear here!.[/quote]
Nice to hear..... :cheers: :cheers:
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Started painting a couple days ago.. took advantage of the dry weather and got the transom all "finished" this afternoon. Flag Blue color. Added the Strbrd swim platform and relocated the Dig-in anchor mount- still have my full trim/turn range on the motor with our without the dig-in pole in the mount.
Wanted to paint the transom first to practice before I get started on the sides. I'm using the foam roller and wet sand method.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/PPDrecord029.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/PPDrecord029.jpg.html)
Then noticed the cowling was lookin a little rough (ok, more than a little) so I put a coat of wax on her and it really shined up!
Need to do something about the stickers/graphics on there, or maybe remove them so its just the Evinrude plaque. Anyone have any tips on removing the sticker part?
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/PPDrecord028.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/PPDrecord028.jpg.html)
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When you go that fine...wet sanding is a must. Adds a wet substrate, keeps the paper from digging. Same as the auto-body work on reality TV.
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Need to do something about the stickers/graphics on there, or maybe remove them so its just the Evinrude plaque. Anyone have any tips on removing the sticker part?
Heat gun :thumleft:
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When you go that fine...wet sanding is a must. Adds a wet substrate, keeps the paper from digging. Same as the auto-body work on reality TV.
are you talking about on the boat paint/between coats; or on the cowling to remove the sticker/bring out extra shine?
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Both. Finish sanding on these applications should be done wet with clear water rinse between.
Re the decal removal...Nando has the correct idea, moderate heat. Just get it moving/slightly peeling, that's all you'll need.
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Fernando and Scott- thanks for the advice!
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With the side discussion....almost missed the big picture :lol:
Your boat looks GREAT :thumright:
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Thanks! still a huge work in progress.
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I still prefer this over a heat gun as it gets the glue at the same time as the decal. Makes cleanup very minimal!
http://www.amazon.com/Industries-Smart- ... B00488DDB8 (http://www.amazon.com/Industries-Smart-Eraser-Drill-Adaptor/dp/B00488DDB8)
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I still prefer this over a heat gun as it gets the glue at the same time as the decal. Makes cleanup very minimal!
http://www.amazon.com/Industries-Smart- ... B00488DDB8 (http://www.amazon.com/Industries-Smart-Eraser-Drill-Adaptor/dp/B00488DDB8)
x2.
Works great on boat stripes and other decals. Does not leave that gummy adhesive.
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so I have run the motor multiple times in my driveway on the hose,,, anywhere from a minute to 3-4 minutes. mild reving and regular idleing... went to take the boat out today and got to the boat ramp... nothing. wouldnt start or stay running, and when it did run- it was doing the same chugging- almost worse than before... I havent changed or done anything to it since it was running really well in the driveway after the plug-wire change.
i was trying plugging and unplugging the spark plug wires while i was floating around and noticed (darwin makes an apperance) that I could unplug one of the plug wires and not have an effect, but when i unplugged another- I got a pretty good shock (motor was running)... didnt like that so I thought id ask here before I continue Pavlov's mechanics... could my power pack be shot for one of the cylinders? wondering why last week it ran great inthe drive-way, then today didnt run at all?
Also noticed I couldnt really keep a prime- I replaced the fuel line inside the cowling and the inline fuel filter- maybe the replacement hose isnt strong enough and is collapsing- starving the motor?
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Well, not to be a smarta$$ or anything Chris, but let's look at what changed from running the boat on muffs in the driveway and putting her in the water...the drive down to the ramp. Any number of things might have happened as she was bouncing down the road.
Now you get her back home, in the drive, and she runs like a dream... :scratch:
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That's not as crazy as it sounds. We have a 4 year old LP "Mosquito Magnet" bug enticer that when it works, kills 'em by the thousands. Only thing is...EVERY year...first start-up....it won't run. Childproof safety features.
So this spring it was a real PITA. Put it in the truck, took it to the retailer. Ran like a dream for two days straight.
Get it back home tonight, careful on the start-up. Exact same issue...won't hold the start-up, gas shuts off.
Gremlins. Gotta be gremlins.
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round 2 today... started it on the hose this AM and it worked great! took it to the boat ramp and everything started and ran wonderfully! decide to do a little cruise from the Gandy ramp over towards Weedon Island, make it there and it just dies- as though I turned off the key... I'm thinking either power pack or something in the fuel tank thats causing the motor to not get fuel...
Is there anyway I can test a power pack?
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Sounds like a fuel delivery issue.
A power pack would have made itself known on the muff. Cranks, runs...then won't crank at all... dead.
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Any suggestions on wear to look next? Could crap in the tank bause something like this? Or a collapsed tank vent line?
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Hi Chris,
I'll throw a big net over this one. First, it is very conceivable to fire up in the driveway and quit at the ramp for two reasons. If it's a fuel issue, the boat is at a different angle in the drive way which may or may not have an influence on how the engine is picking up fuel. A remote tank will solve that riddle and point you in the right direction. Second, your engine has two power packs, one for each bank. The common denominator is the keyswitch, timer base and stator. It is very unlikely that both packs are bad. At worst, you would be running on two cylinders if you lost one power pack. I have experienced components working fine in the driveway and then quit 20 minutes into a trip, only to come home and have the engine fire right up and run fine after the engine has cooled down. This is classic stator heat up, fail, cool off and start working again. Typically, a faulty timer base will have the engine drop 1 or 2 cylinders only but still run. The keyswitch can cause a problem if full of water or an internal short. The way around that is when the engine quits next time, unplug the engine harness under the cowling and jump the starter to see if it lights back up. My $.02
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when i replaced the plugs last summer, i set the gap at either .40 or .43... cant remember off the top of my head. I havent checked the gap lately. Thanks again!
Not the gap on the plugs!
You can go to NAPA or Carquest and get one of these. It checks the strength of the charge from the power packs. you adjust it to 7/16" inch and crank the motor over with the plugs out. You do this with each plug wire and it will tell you real quick if they are performing correctly.
http://www.amazon.com/Thexton-404-Adjus ... gap+tester (http://www.amazon.com/Thexton-404-Adjustable-Ignition-Tester/dp/B0002STSBM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367085804&sr=8-1&keywords=thexton+spark+gap+tester)
Did you ever get one of these and check your packs? I agree with Fitz it sounds like your stator is heating up and then not working. With your year motor I would highly recommend getting a factory service manual. I found one on ebay for my 94 175 for 23 bucks. It has been a huge help with diagnosing problems like these.
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so I got the ignition spark tester... 2 plug wires on the starboard side worked correctly (had spark) but the port side had no spark at all. so i switched the ignition coils and then got a spark on the port but not the starboard side. going to pick up 2 new ignition coils this afternoon.
going to tackle the stator tonight. cant find my 1 3/8 socket to get the flywheel off... always something.
I did notice some plastic "drops" from what looks like melted plastic under there- from what I read in my SELOC manual and on a few websites while doing research- the plastic on a failed stator will start overheating and melt...
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Melted plastic from the stator is a good indicator of an issue but it is usually a sign of a bad charge coil ( for the battery) and not related to the ignition side. The charge coils and primary ignition coils are two separate systems that are potted together in one assembly. It is conceivable that the charge coils have cooked the entire stator. The goal is to determine the root cause of the failure so consider a high resistance in the battery cables so give them a good inspection and replace if necessary. Also do a basic test of the rectifier which converts AC flywheel voltage to DC battery charge voltage. Although not related to loss of ignition; it could cause the stator to overheat and take out the ignition primary coils in the process. As for the coils, are they cracked and leaking to ground on the cylinder head? A good test is to pull the coil wire off the spark plug while the engine is running and see if the coil lights up like a lightening bolt trying to find a new ground. I believe your engine has the improved coil design but it pays to check. This test works well after dark to see the leaky ground path.
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with some muscle and a little ingenuity, Fernando and I were able to get the fly wheel off and get the stator removed. nothing some Coronas and home-made breaker bars couldn't stop!
found the stator to be pretty rough looking- the coil strips on the outside edge are almost 75%+ covered with either melted paint or plastic. no doubt causing poor connections/preventing proper connections for the timing to occur. rest of the set-up looked good. Big thanks again to everyone for their help again!
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to clarify experience yesterday by the way:
got the spark tester and tried the Starboard side plug wires- worked great
port side- no bueno at all
so I pulled the engine coils and swapped them- 1 worked on the starboard side but the other didnt.. and the good ones from the original starboard side did not work when placed on the port side- leading me to believe power pack or stator...
so with the: runs till things heat up and some visible melted plastic,,, I'm leaning towards a bad stator. gonna get that replaced hopefully tomorrow and go from there.
and just to make things interesting... could a faulty electric fuel primer have anything to do with this?
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Ooops :oops: Somehow I double posted so I just kept the more complete version below.
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Chris,
Hate to say this, but I think you might be barking up the wrong tree. If you're swapping plug wires, coils, or powerpacks, and seeing a difference from side to side, the stator is very UNlikely to be the problem. The eroding residual paint and surface rust on the outer face of the stator don't affect it's function. I believe they come completely painted new and rely on simple electromagnetic fields for function (similar to how your starter works), but to be honest I've never actually seen a new one. Every single one of the 7 or 8 I have for my crossflows looks the same way yours does and works perfectly. I don't have a looper so I can't give you specifications, but stator function can be verified with a meter and a manual before you spend money to replace what you have.
Based on what you've posted, it appears you're having a port or starboard bank problem and not a "systemic" issue, so my thought is that your problem is SOLELY the result of powerpacks, coils, or plug wires on one side of the engine. Spend a bit more time tracing and troubleshooting your ignition system and it'll probably save you a bunch of money. Nobody likes spending money replacing the wrong parts! :evil:
If you can find anyone with a V-4 looper manual then you can get even better info!
Good luck, bro. :salut: Keep posting!
P.S. - do you have photos of the melting/melted plastic to show what you found under the flywheel?
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thanks Ryan! I have a manual, just need to get the correct gauges to check it. I appreciate the heads up!
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Replaced my powerpack, my Looper only has 1.
Engine will now start but has a bit of a hic-up every 5-10 seconds and is running at a MUCH higher RPM than it did with the old powerpack.
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1 power pack for a V4? Are you sure? That's news to me.
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yes sir, just 1 on the top of the motor towards the back of the flywheel- it has leads to each iginition coil, a 2-prong connector and 4-prong connector. even called the Evinrude dealer over in Largo and double checked that i wasnt missing something.
just put the old power pack back on and started the motor- same thing- running at a higher RPM- wanted to see if the plug wires had juice running through them with that pack- and it did on all 4 wires. when i unplugged the starboard side plug wires (# 1 and #3)... the motor would studder... when i unplugged the left side (#2 and #4)--- there was no change to how the motor was running.
these are both newer plugs- replaced last summer.
is it possible they could be bad already?
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Between traveling over 11,000 miles in the past 2 ½ months, I have managed to get a few projects completed on the boat.
• Removed and sold the old E-rude 140
• Sealed the transom holes from the previous motor
• Painted the hull Flag Blue with Interlux Brightsides (roll and tip)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/F7026A49-92E7-43A5-9F2C-575787363EFC-3288-0000028BB648D280.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/F7026A49-92E7-43A5-9F2C-575787363EFC-3288-0000028BB648D280.jpg.html)
Removed the original vent line and fuel fill lines:
• Replaced with a SS fuel fill; had to fill the original fuel fill cap hole because the new fill piece has a smaller diameter (original had a plastic washer sleeve built in, and had 4 screws instead of the new one that has 3).
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/D3FAB37E-6081-4AC9-A1D7-E75478706969-3288-0000028C1BEEB08C.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/D3FAB37E-6081-4AC9-A1D7-E75478706969-3288-0000028C1BEEB08C.jpg.html)
Fuel fill: (has a screen/moisture blocker, but the trim ring matches the 2 bilge thru hulls on the port side)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/6B708D5C-BBE2-42A5-9F55-DC1273B13262-3288-0000028B9ACC1DAC.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/6B708D5C-BBE2-42A5-9F55-DC1273B13262-3288-0000028B9ACC1DAC.jpg.html)
Also glassed the original hull vent on the port side (and added a 2nd bilge thru hull)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/36501995-B9D6-4388-811B-372289931331-3288-0000028B7818352A.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/36501995-B9D6-4388-811B-372289931331-3288-0000028B7818352A.jpg.html)
Also did some work on the livewell:
• Built a backrest for the leanpost/seat- 3” foam that I wrapped with pleated vynal to match the seat , stapled to a ½” piece of starboard, and then sandwiched that to a ½” piece of teak. This is then thru bolted to the seat bottom I made out of starboard.
(the white wood was just a template while the teak stain dried)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/894AFBCA-0CDE-4D97-BC08-070436ADF638-3288-0000028BE7BB40B7.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/894AFBCA-0CDE-4D97-BC08-070436ADF638-3288-0000028BE7BB40B7.jpg.html)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/4DEFEA7A-6ADA-4D50-827C-FBA6F933CBDC-3288-0000028C02DEC79C.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/4DEFEA7A-6ADA-4D50-827C-FBA6F933CBDC-3288-0000028C02DEC79C.jpg.html)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/DFC7BFE3-266D-420E-9613-58FC4E3D077F-3288-0000028ACFDDD019.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/DFC7BFE3-266D-420E-9613-58FC4E3D077F-3288-0000028ACFDDD019.jpg.html)
As always, I had my trusty helper with me, my Golden Retriever: Moose
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/06F1332F-12A0-48FA-ADCA-4B323F4754B8-3288-0000028BD3BEC51F.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/06F1332F-12A0-48FA-ADCA-4B323F4754B8-3288-0000028BD3BEC51F.jpg.html)
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Very nice work Chris. Beautiful results. :thumleft: :thumleft:
What are you re-powering with?
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Thanks Rick! Its been a gradual process. I am not really sure on the motor at this time... I have had some really good suggestions from friends and have been trying to find those motors- just a matter of lucking out with the right HP, hours/condition of the motor, and price...I will eventually be re-doing my transom (enclosing with a bracket or porta) but in the meantime, it is solid and strong enough so I just want to get it back in the water and use/enjoy it instead of working on it...
if i can find a 20" motor I'll be very happy, but it seem like there are way more 25" motors out there, so i will probably go with the CMC Static Jack Plates – 5” Vertical Extension.
so far looking at some early 2000's Mercury EFI's, and early/mid 2000's Johnson 150/175's..
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Finally back in the water!
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/water.jpg)
Thanks everyone for all the help, advice, and guidance!! Looking forward to joining you for the next aquasport club gathering!
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Ya gotta love that teak. :cheers:
Excellent Chris. :thumright:
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Chris, she is a beauty boat! BTW, where at in Tampa are you?
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Wow nice looking boat! Yeah you have to bring her to a gathering!
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Thanks everyone!
I moved to Ellenton a few months ago Bob,,, kinda by the Outlet Mall.
Ill be in you're area in a few weeks I think- camping on Anclote Key.
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That teak really pops off those colors. Great looking boat :cheers: :cheers: :salut:
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Camping on Anclote sounds like fun. I've been planning on a camping trip on Anclote this fall.
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Finally back in the water!
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/water.jpg)
Thanks everyone for all the help, advice, and guidance!! Looking forward to joining you for the next aquasport club gathering!
Good lookin' :thumright:
Great to see her finished out :cheers:
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Ah yes, Chris, Ellenton, by the 301 exit. Know it well...
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Great looking boat! Congrats!
I'll be tooling around out of Anna Maria after Xmas, I'll keep an eye out for you!
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couple more pictures as she continues to come together.
-lucked into a sweet tandem aluminum trailer on CL the other week...
new tires and a fresh coat of paint on the wheels:
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/7BCB8B16-BD53-4A49-A988-407E4A57E578-7003-00000585FEBA75F1_zps4e3af857.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/7BCB8B16-BD53-4A49-A988-407E4A57E578-7003-00000585FEBA75F1_zps4e3af857.jpg.html)
6000LB Magic Tilt, new bunks carpet, brakes, winch, lights, 2 tires
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/A81D318B-3B96-4C1D-A352-C36AB6570D96-7003-00000585E6E4BEA9_zps4fca4ac3.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/A81D318B-3B96-4C1D-A352-C36AB6570D96-7003-00000585E6E4BEA9_zps4fca4ac3.jpg.html)
sits perfectly just inside the fenders and rides so much better than the old galvanized trailer I had
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/323CBB38-7503-4A97-8101-22B96681AA10-7003-000005860E50007E_zpsaac1db7f.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/323CBB38-7503-4A97-8101-22B96681AA10-7003-000005860E50007E_zpsaac1db7f.jpg.html)
last time I had it out I noticed i was getting more and more water leaking into the bilge- I had the 1.5" thru-hull on my transom for the livewell drain connected improperly to a regular ball valve (I know I should have had the proper sea-cock)... so I replaced the ball valve with a marlon sea-cock, (had to do some minor modifications- grinding off one of the screw points on the base so it would fit against my stringer.) no leaking now.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/04E52875-EFF3-42D5-9D0C-C620F08D47DA-7003-0000058656A353A1_zps929a235d.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/04E52875-EFF3-42D5-9D0C-C620F08D47DA-7003-0000058656A353A1_zps929a235d.jpg.html)
I also noticed that I was getting water in the bilge area when i would wash or it would rain as water would drip in through the hole in the floor where the bilge line runs, so I decided to use some of the extra teak I had laying around to build a riser pad where the lines would go through. This prevents the water from draining through the floor unless there is about an inch of water back there, I also put a good amount of silicone on the hose where it goes through the teak.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/D640AC54-F63C-4DDB-8646-AD5118F7FF7D-7003-0000058688F7F6CE_zpsd30eb73f.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/D640AC54-F63C-4DDB-8646-AD5118F7FF7D-7003-0000058688F7F6CE_zpsd30eb73f.jpg.html)
bad picture but I added a bunch of layers of glass to the bilge, sealed up the original transom drain and added a thru-hull bottom mounted drain- works much better i think.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/935E5627-2565-4413-AAE5-F4405E64C44B-7003-00000586CEC9D729_zpsd84810b3.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/935E5627-2565-4413-AAE5-F4405E64C44B-7003-00000586CEC9D729_zpsd84810b3.jpg.html)
today I put on my FL numbers (got them printed on 3M chrome) and picked up my Aquasport badge I had the guys at Adeptus Industries cut out. super happy with them!
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/E8309B4A-14BD-45B3-979F-18063060DF2E-7003-00000583B5688FBC_zps02092091.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/E8309B4A-14BD-45B3-979F-18063060DF2E-7003-00000583B5688FBC_zps02092091.jpg.html)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/92AA60BB-4748-4ED6-9444-05FBAD143437-7003-00000583CE8C7579_zpsaefe2c2c.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/92AA60BB-4748-4ED6-9444-05FBAD143437-7003-00000583CE8C7579_zpsaefe2c2c.jpg.html)
and finally- cleaned up the top of my console a bit. got rid of the black plexi that was there and replaced it with a white ASB material, and added the cupholders and the teak ledger board to keep stuff from falling off.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/2D758206-7800-4605-895F-2AFCF778DFE6-7003-00000583D6BE3AD5_zps6058a33f.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/2D758206-7800-4605-895F-2AFCF778DFE6-7003-00000583D6BE3AD5_zps6058a33f.jpg.html)
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Nice finish to the project :salut:
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Looking great!
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Chris, if you want to "freshen up" that Blue Seas switch panel, I've got plenty of brand new black switch caps, all have the red indicator lens. Don't know if your switches have the indicator lights, but I've got switches that do. PM if interested...
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couple more pictures as she continues to come together.
-lucked into a sweet tandem aluminum trailer on CL the other week...
new tires and a fresh coat of paint on the wheels:
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/7BCB8B16-BD53-4A49-A988-407E4A57E578-7003-00000585FEBA75F1_zps4e3af857.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/7BCB8B16-BD53-4A49-A988-407E4A57E578-7003-00000585FEBA75F1_zps4e3af857.jpg.html)
6000LB Magic Tilt, new bunks carpet, brakes, winch, lights, 2 tires
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/A81D318B-3B96-4C1D-A352-C36AB6570D96-7003-00000585E6E4BEA9_zps4fca4ac3.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/A81D318B-3B96-4C1D-A352-C36AB6570D96-7003-00000585E6E4BEA9_zps4fca4ac3.jpg.html)
sits perfectly just inside the fenders and rides so much better than the old galvanized trailer I had
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/323CBB38-7503-4A97-8101-22B96681AA10-7003-000005860E50007E_zpsaac1db7f.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/323CBB38-7503-4A97-8101-22B96681AA10-7003-000005860E50007E_zpsaac1db7f.jpg.html)
last time I had it out I noticed i was getting more and more water leaking into the bilge- I had the 1.5" thru-hull on my transom for the livewell drain connected improperly to a regular ball valve (I know I should have had the proper sea-cock)... so I replaced the ball valve with a marlon sea-cock, (had to do some minor modifications- grinding off one of the screw points on the base so it would fit against my stringer.) no leaking now.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/04E52875-EFF3-42D5-9D0C-C620F08D47DA-7003-0000058656A353A1_zps929a235d.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/04E52875-EFF3-42D5-9D0C-C620F08D47DA-7003-0000058656A353A1_zps929a235d.jpg.html)
I also noticed that I was getting water in the bilge area when i would wash or it would rain as water would drip in through the hole in the floor where the bilge line runs, so I decided to use some of the extra teak I had laying around to build a riser pad where the lines would go through. This prevents the water from draining through the floor unless there is about an inch of water back there, I also put a good amount of silicone on the hose where it goes through the teak.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/D640AC54-F63C-4DDB-8646-AD5118F7FF7D-7003-0000058688F7F6CE_zpsd30eb73f.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/D640AC54-F63C-4DDB-8646-AD5118F7FF7D-7003-0000058688F7F6CE_zpsd30eb73f.jpg.html)
bad picture but I added a bunch of layers of glass to the bilge, sealed up the original transom drain and added a thru-hull bottom mounted drain- works much better i think.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/935E5627-2565-4413-AAE5-F4405E64C44B-7003-00000586CEC9D729_zpsd84810b3.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/935E5627-2565-4413-AAE5-F4405E64C44B-7003-00000586CEC9D729_zpsd84810b3.jpg.html)
today I put on my FL numbers (got them printed on 3M chrome) and picked up my Aquasport badge I had the guys at Adeptus Industries cut out. super happy with them!
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/E8309B4A-14BD-45B3-979F-18063060DF2E-7003-00000583B5688FBC_zps02092091.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/E8309B4A-14BD-45B3-979F-18063060DF2E-7003-00000583B5688FBC_zps02092091.jpg.html)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/92AA60BB-4748-4ED6-9444-05FBAD143437-7003-00000583CE8C7579_zpsaefe2c2c.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/92AA60BB-4748-4ED6-9444-05FBAD143437-7003-00000583CE8C7579_zpsaefe2c2c.jpg.html)
and finally- cleaned up the top of my console a bit. got rid of the black plexi that was there and replaced it with a white ASB material, and added the cupholders and the teak ledger board to keep stuff from falling off.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/2D758206-7800-4605-895F-2AFCF778DFE6-7003-00000583D6BE3AD5_zps6058a33f.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/2D758206-7800-4605-895F-2AFCF778DFE6-7003-00000583D6BE3AD5_zps6058a33f.jpg.html)
Lovetofish I am a huge fan of blue but man flag blue really shows off the beautiful lines of the 222's hull. You have done some nice touches to her.
Can you give me a phone number and contact at the company you purchased your badge at? PM me if you don't want to publish the number for all to see. Thanks.
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thanks!
I got the badges from Adeptus Industries. they are located here in Bradenton, FL... 941-753-9263... Kenny is the main guy to deal with there.
kinda hard to get ahold of, and they leave early on Fridays to head up to GA for deer hunting- but they do great work! The turn-around on mine was about a week, and they had another set they had cut and just needed to polish for someone (I'm guessing on here,,, it was a 22-2)... I think they are listed under the vendor/resources tab...
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thanks!
I got the badges from Adeptus Industries. they are located here in Bradenton, FL... 941-753-9263... Kenny is the main guy to deal with there.
kinda hard to get ahold of, and they leave early on Fridays to head up to GA for deer hunting- but they do great work! The turn-around on mine was about a week, and they had another set they had cut and just needed to polish for someone (I'm guessing on here,,, it was a 22-2)... I think they are listed under the vendor/resources tab...
Thanks how much were the badges?
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thanks!
I got the badges from Adeptus Industries. they are located here in Bradenton, FL... 941-753-9263... Kenny is the main guy to deal with there.
kinda hard to get ahold of, and they leave early on Fridays to head up to GA for deer hunting- but they do great work! The turn-around on mine was about a week, and they had another set they had cut and just needed to polish for someone (I'm guessing on here,,, it was a 22-2)... I think they are listed under the vendor/resources tab...
Thanks how much were the badges?
Disregard I got the pm thanks again.
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couple updates to the boat:
new tower, built by Randy, (member on this site), updated the steering to a UFlex 33 with tilt helms and Morse dual station setup. Absolutely love it!
bought and narrowed an Aquasport console, took 5" out of the middle of it, reversed the hinges on the front "door" so it swings up now, built and fiberglassed in an insulated box for under the front seat, and added a shelf in the main cavity of the console. working on a starboard door for the backside now.
Also added a new bigger teak door to the side of the livewell and built a knife/plier holder for it. more pics to come tomorrow in the daylight.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/64841975-02BC-4791-A1F0-2C5657E43722.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/1974%20222%20Aquasport/64841975-02BC-4791-A1F0-2C5657E43722.jpg.html)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/150D4E5D-7B7B-473E-AB98-EBF7989FD727.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/1974%20222%20Aquasport/150D4E5D-7B7B-473E-AB98-EBF7989FD727.jpg.html)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/746070A6-206E-4339-9352-4AD071AE9F6D.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/1974%20222%20Aquasport/746070A6-206E-4339-9352-4AD071AE9F6D.jpg.html)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/8AA772CF-6127-44B8-983A-7BCB77B96D55.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/1974%20222%20Aquasport/8AA772CF-6127-44B8-983A-7BCB77B96D55.jpg.html)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/1983A0C2-F982-460F-83AD-97792B98A9AF.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/1974%20222%20Aquasport/1983A0C2-F982-460F-83AD-97792B98A9AF.jpg.html)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/9E140182-78A5-4A2E-8BC2-4CA288529EB9.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/1974%20222%20Aquasport/9E140182-78A5-4A2E-8BC2-4CA288529EB9.jpg.html)
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That's you!!!!
:thumright:
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Old school....and she's smokin' :thumright:
Love the teak....correct lima bean green gel... Morse controls....and "Randy's Art".
Bad to the bone! :salut:
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:thumleft:
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man that thing looks great!!!
fyi, i will be using the same garboard drain you installed. with all the added glass along the bottom of the transom water would be an inch deep before it would drain.
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Wow Chris, that looks awesome! Some nice work there!
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Working on a fuel leak: noticed after filling the gas tank, I had a size able amount in the bilge from the gas station to the ramp.
Had the tank cleaned out last summer- inside inspection showed no obvious rust or spots to worry about, new fill hose, vent hose, feed hose. Thinking I'm going to just pull and get a better view of everything.
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Had the tank cleaned out last summer- inside inspection showed no obvious rust or spots to worry about,
Ok, been there so I know how much it sux. :thumbdown: Three questions:
1) when you say "filled" the tank do you mean you waited for the hose pumphead to click and shutoff on its own at the station?
2) I had a size ableamount in the bilge
please clarify sizeable?
3) How long after filling did you check the bilge?
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Tank is 60 gallons, I put 43 gallons in it, had a little bit spit thru the side vent line. The 1/4 mile from gas station to boat ramp, had probably over 5 gallons in the bilge.
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That sux.
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(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/0D76AD14-6BF5-4AF3-8E8C-41981C4C18FD.jpg)
Pulled the tank. Came out fairly easily. Was a little confused as I had it about 3/4 of the way out and I wasn't seeing any fuel or holes.. Then I found the dime size hole on the starboard side about a foot back from the front corner. There's pretty heavy pitting and oxidation (guess that's what it looks like) up and down each side.
Talked to Mattson about possible repairs instead of a new tank- but after further washing and scrubbing- I realized both sides are very pitted and corroded on the outside, in addition to numerous pit marks on the top- so I'm going to just go with a fresh tank and not worry about it... Can't put a price on safety and piece of mind...
My coffin is actually in very good condition, other than the foam at the back of the tank that I removed and a little foam that oozed under the tank during the initial pour; it's all intact and didn't come out when I slid the tank out... Thinking I can just clean up the cavity and slide the new one back in.
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Glad you got it out. Five gallons in the bilge is nothing to sneeze at.
Set it up like the guys have been doing lately...fiberglass strips on the bottom, chocked in on the corners and top, no foam, let the air circulate. Several threads here for guidance.
We have a fave aluminum tank supplier on the Vendor forum....CAS members receive a discount. But shop and compare, keep us posted.
:thumright:
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Mine still has the aluminum straps that are anchored to the side of the coffin are still solid so I was gonna leave them and re-use.
Threads seem to be 50-50 on coating vs leaving bare. Guess I'll ask the builder and see what they recommend.
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Picked up my new tank from Mattson yesterday- got it installed this afternoon.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/8C84686A-E7F7-4726-8B70-748B1E02E467.jpg)
Also received a box of accessories I've been waiting for- new LED anchor light, GPS antenna, and bungee cargo net for a lifejacket storage setup.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/C4578A14-0EBD-4895-99C0-4843E0C2D877.jpg)
Bright spot of the day: my new seat cushions for the front seat of the console got dropped off late today.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/64A68E60-5B2E-4045-9DCC-D5D56F796430.jpg)
Bad part- boat has been sitting in the driveway since I got home from the Keys August 10. I didn't have any problems with it while down there- flushed it before I left there and also flushed it when I got home. Have not noticed anything weird until today- about half way thru my tank install- I noticed a blue puddle around the skeg- just started today. Pulled the prop- no line or debris around the shaft- clean and grease still from when I checked it mid-July. The blue (guessing/assuming) lower unit fluid is dripping out of what looks like the exhaust ports that are around the hub cavity.
Clean fluid- prop is solidl- when I spin it when the controls are in neutral: all is smooth.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/480AB3D2-1BB9-4002-8ED6-24CEFCEEF5BE.jpg)
Any ideas?
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Also built a hatch/door for the console:
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/A4875738-12A1-46B9-8A78-C9CE80049A24.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/4870E9F0-25E2-448D-8AB0-8C14EA2DC8E7_1.jpg)
Didn't get a pick with the latch on it. Top part hinges out for access to the top shelf area of the console, and then the whole door can slide up & out for access to batteries, oil tank, wiring harnesses.
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Picked up my new tank from Mattson yesterday- got it installed this afternoon.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/8C84686A-E7F7-4726-8B70-748B1E02E467.jpg)
Also received a box of accessories I've been waiting for- new LED anchor light, GPS antenna, and bungee cargo net for a lifejacket storage setup.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/C4578A14-0EBD-4895-99C0-4843E0C2D877.jpg)
Bright spot of the day: my new seat cushions for the front seat of the console got dropped off late today.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/64A68E60-5B2E-4045-9DCC-D5D56F796430.jpg)
Bad part- boat has been sitting in the driveway since I got home from the Keys August 10. I didn't have any problems with it while down there- flushed it before I left there and also flushed it when I got home. Have not noticed anything weird until today- about half way thru my tank install- I noticed a blue puddle around the skeg- just started today. Pulled the prop- no line or debris around the shaft- clean and grease still from when I checked it mid-July. The blue (guessing/assuming) lower unit fluid is dripping out of what looks like the exhaust ports that are around the hub cavity.
Clean fluid- prop is solidl- when I spin it when the controls are in neutral: all is smooth.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/480AB3D2-1BB9-4002-8ED6-24CEFCEEF5BE.jpg)
Any ideas?
Assuming you're still running the two-stroke 140....looks like 2 cycle lube based upon color and viscosity. The stuff gets everywhere, especially after the engine has been cocked and sitting awhile. And the drip always seems to run in a streak from under the pan straight down the LU. No biggee IMHO, good to go.
Our respected MM's will hopefully advise the same.
Love the new additions...gotta be getting excited :thumright:
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Looking good Chris :salut: . It must be the time for console hatches - I spent most of yesterday making one too :thumright:
Is that a custom cover on your upper console? Where did you get it? And can you post pics of your lights on the tower?
BTW, I agree with Scotty - I've only seen amber-colored LU oil. That blue oil looks more like 2 cycle oil. Can't say whether that much leakage is a concern or not - it does seem a bit excessive. Do you have an oil injection system? I would inspect the block and hoses for any sources of leaks. Otherwise it may be coming out the exhaust.
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It's a 99 Yamaha 150 vmax. Could the leaking have anything to do with pressure/lack of pressure in the system as it has been sitting with no tank(lines disconnected)? Also replaying the tank install and I had to move the wiring harness while pushing the tank in, maybe that forced some of the gas/oil down thru the exhaust?
No custom covers yet,,, just found some grill covers that happened to fit. Still debating between a full cover and just a "bag style" that will cover the tower.
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That is 2 stroke oil, start it up and run her. She will burn it off in no time :wink:
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Chris,
Instead of guessing what it is, crack the drain/fill screw open for the lower unit and see if the oil is amber or blue. There are lots of blue, violet, green gear oils out there. Next, take your finger and wipe some and smell it. If it smells like ammonia/gasoline its two stroke oil. If your gear oil is blue, smell the drip and see if it smells like gear oil. The concern here is that your engine runs at 80-1 gas/oil ratio at idle and oil injected outboards rarely drip like this unless there is a problem and if it is unburned fuel from excessive idling the drip is usually black. This oil appears to be unmolested from gasoline so it point towards a system leak. The weird thing is that if you have a system leak, it should show up in the lower engine pan or be dripping out of the front of the engine when you tilt it up or dripping down the sides of the exhaust housing. So do the visual and smell test first and see if it points you in direction. Let me know your findings.
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Heading out to work on it as we speak. Thanks for the tips and direction!
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Could this laying in the bottom pan of the motor have anything to do with it?
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/DFD80602-83AE-4DFD-82BB-296E6BA03AEC.jpg)
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Leak is definitely fuel/oil.
Lower unit has amber colored oil.
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I'm not sure what the part is. It looks like a plunger that would connect to linkage, almost like an old electric choke plunger from the pre-oil injected, pre-mix days. Is there oil laying in the lower pan? Can you see where that plunger may fit?
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Chris,
What is your engine model number? 1999 had a lot of different models.
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99 150hp vmax carborated
TLXR model
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OK, which one?
P150TLRX
S150TLRX
PX150TLRX
AX150TLRX
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Sorry- P150TLXR
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I'm surprised but it has an old fashioned mechanical choke and no enrichner system. I cant find the choke solenoid or plunger in the diagrams but I found all of the linkage and manual choke lever. Is that engine hard to start cold? It does look like a plunger for a choke solenoid. Look on the back side of the air silencer box and see if there is a solenoid. Trace the choke linkage from the pull out lever at the bottom cowl and see if you can find it.
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Yes- it has a mechanical lever on the front of the cowling to pull for a choke on first starts- it usually starts right up on cold starts.
Took it to the ramp today- probably killed every mosquito in a 2 mile range- by the time I made it down the gandy boat ramp canal- she was running ( barely smoking) like normal.
Will investigate more tomorrow- there is a random spring that isn't connected to anything towards the top of one of the levers on the top starboard side.
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http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamah ... parts.html (http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1999/P150TLRX/ELECTRICAL%202/parts.html) #24 & 27 solenoid and o-ring/keeper
Check your motor reservoir sender for leakage when tilted.
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So Chris,
Do you have to pull that choke lever to start the engine cold or do you push in on the key and she starts right up? This still doesn't explain the raw oil coming out of the exhaust. When I was looking at your engine diagrams yesterday, I was looking at your oil injection system and saw that your oil is fed directly into your intake plenum and saw an array of check valves that meter the oil going into the intake. Now if one of those check valves is stuck open, maybe on one or both of the bottom cylinders, it could cause oil to puddle in the bottom of the block just from gravity and cause the mosquito control festival on start up until it clears out. This may also explain the drip of raw oil coming out the exhaust while sitting. You have a gear driven oil pump so I'm not sure how oil could pass through the pump without the engine running and feed oil into the intake via gravity so it is the hitch in my theory. I need Loye to substantiate or dispell this assumption.
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So Chris,
Do you have to pull that choke lever to start the engine cold or do you push in on the key and she starts right up? This still doesn't explain the raw oil coming out of the exhaust. When I was looking at your engine diagrams yesterday, I was looking at your oil injection system and saw that your oil is fed directly into your intake plenum and saw an array of check valves that meter the oil going into the intake. Now if one of those check valves is stuck open, maybe on one or both of the bottom cylinders, it could cause oil to puddle in the bottom of the block just from gravity and cause the mosquito control festival on start up until it clears out. This may also explain the drip of raw oil coming out the exhaust while sitting. You have a gear driven oil pump so I'm not sure how oil could pass through the pump without the engine running and feed oil into the intake via gravity so it is the hitch in my theory. I need Loye to substantiate or dispell this assumption.
Those check valves are just duck bills to keep any thing from going back into oil lines. there are check valves in the oil lines, pump to intake, but they are just to keep oil from back feeding to pump when motor is turned off. Don't know where straight oil is coming from out of the exhaust unless motor was cranked continuously with out fuel in the system and oil pump was at WOT...???
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Since Chris has linkage pieces laying around pan, maybe the oil pump flow control linkage from the carb? I know on a Merc if the link arm is disconnected the pump arm is spring loaded to full dump as a safety measure which helps explain the smoke on start up but not the at rest oil loss. I might be inclined to drop the gearcase and see if everything is saturated with raw oil maybe pointing to a leaking crankshaft seal, (oil running down the driveshaft and making its way out the exhaust) I've seen that one.
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Since Chris has linkage pieces laying around pan, maybe the oil pump flow control linkage from the carb? I know on a Merc if the link arm is disconnected the pump arm is spring loaded to full dump as a safety measure which helps explain the smoke on start up but not the at rest oil loss. I might be inclined to drop the gearcase and see if everything is saturated with raw oil maybe pointing to a leaking crankshaft seal, (oil running down the driveshaft and making its way out the exhaust) I've seen that one.
Same with Yammi on the full oil flow if disconnected. Yamaha doesn't have the ck valve between the pump and the fuel line that allows oil to enter fuel when it is stuck open like Mercury. The lower crank seal could be bad, like the idea of dropping gearcase to ck. Although if it is just oil, don't know where it's coming from as by the time it hits the lower seal it should be mixed with fuel.
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Agree, but she seems to have raw, puddled, un burned oil coming from somewhere internally. Open crankcase bleed valve on the bottom letting oil puddle while running and draining at rest? That oil is before combustion on the intake side of the block. Or a internal leaking oil pump? I'm totally grasping at straws now.
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Agree, but she seems to have raw, puddled, un burned oil coming from somewhere internally. Open crankcase bleed valve on the bottom letting oil puddle while running and draining at rest? That oil is before combustion on the intake side of the block. Or a internal leaking oil pump? I'm totally grasping at straws now.
Leaky oil pump, maybe, but would have to have bad crank seal also. It has me bumfuggaled LOL Now that Chris has run it, I would let sit for a week or so and see if anything else leaks. If not, I would turn the radio up and just run it LOL
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Yep, me befuddled too! Nothing like trying to do an Internet engine fix! As seen in the picture, if the engine only fills one scallop shell with raw oil, we would consider this normal loss, three scallop shells is to much. LOL. Chris, take the boat to Loye since we have 50% of the befuddledness out of the way!
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Noticed some oil build-up in the pan, but can not tell where it's coming from without taking the air box off (didn't have tools with me at the time.
Was thinking last night and remembered: I put a cover over the console and upper station- and realized after 2-3 days of the cover being on, the wind moved the cover some and actually moved the throttle lever forward to probably 1/3 or 1/2 throttle. These are the old school morse controls- is it possible that that opened the carbs and any other linkage- allowing the oil to flow - thus giving me the "basically" solid oil flow out of the exhaust (as I didn't have the gas tank in the boat at the time)?
-maybe an easy fix/realization and also explains why the problem has not returned??
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Noticed some oil build-up in the pan, but can not tell where it's coming from without taking the air box off (didn't have tools with me at the time.
Was thinking last night and remembered: I put a cover over the console and upper station- and realized after 2-3 days of the cover being on, the wind moved the cover some and actually moved the throttle lever forward to probably 1/3 or 1/2 throttle. These are the old school morse controls- is it possible that that opened the carbs and any other linkage- allowing the oil to flow - thus giving me the "basically" solid oil flow out of the exhaust (as I didn't have the gas tank in the boat at the time)?
-maybe an easy fix/realization and also explains why the problem has not returned??
Throttle plates being open shouldn't have anything to do with it. Without the oil pump spinning it shouldn't let that much oil thru. I'm still trying to figure out how "straight oil" is coming out of the exhaust.
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(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/e29fe59d1aeb8ab4ff3be1a21a4121fb.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/d94e1d5e71315353bd8ccada80a0e9c1.jpg)
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Had a few things done to the tower: the upper station needed a footbar/extra brace, this combined with the secondary posts higher on the console really strengthened the tower. As usual- very happy with Randy's quality welds and attention to detail.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/38d4b5fd64c2bce5408f0fd2b1038d56.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/c8cd2e5671eb5c5f464d6f911bdc5396.jpg)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/dc53b06d9fd8e8ab1991db013f06d750.jpg)
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Nice Chris, I'll have to keep that in mind when I eventually mount my tower in the boat. Has Randy been keeping busy building towers/tops?
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He's super busy from what I understand. He's the key builder for Barker Boatworks and also a few other boat builders.
Craig: couple tips based on my build/rigging. soak the hydraulic lines with the slickest stuff you can get of there. Id even consider trying to run them before you put the tower in the boat so you can spray whatever lubricant in the tube and not worry about it dripping into your boat.
I ran my steering on the Port side and Morse controls on the starboard side. When you mount your throttle: try placing it directly above the chase-tube to help with angles and to keep the cables from binding.
I would also consider a 10ga main power and ground to a buss bar or fuse panel in theuper ontrol box for whatever accessories you will have up there. Even having the 2" tubes- its a PITA getting everything run.
Im building a box to go under the upper seat to act as an electronics box where I can have the radio and extra storage.
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Thanks for the tips, Chris. And glad to hear Randy is doing well.
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Glad Randy is doing well also, I'm getting close to ordering my seat from him.
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hey all, its been a while. good to see new members and builds and the progress of some of the older member's as their boats continue to improve or be enjoyed as is!
I have a question to the motor/electrical masters on here: 1999 Yamaha 150 vmax- had a trim fluid leak. somewhere along the line of refilling the trim the gauge does not seem to read like it should. this is the Yamaha gauge, wiring harness and everything. and all worked fine until the trim pump started leaking. basically now with the motor "level- at 1/2 up/down... the gauge reads that the motor is all the way down (1 or 2 bars instead of 4). is there something I can reset, unplug/reconnect, or change?
Thanks
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Chris, there is a sender somewhere on the motor. Not sure where with your motor but it is on the port side of the motor bracket on mine. Google & YouTube are your friends. Catching any?
http://youtu.be/WGB_ZPKylRg
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Another view.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/706/Trimsensor2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13725&title=trimsensor2&cat=706)
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Bob and Nando- Thank you, this is great, I will check it out as soon as I get home.
Nando- sadly have not been fishing in several months. last time I went I caught a decent snook and some small reds, but nothing major. ready to get back at it this summer! have you been?
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Good to hear from you again Chris! If it is not where CB's sender is in his pic, look on the tilt tube (the tube the engine tilts on), on the front, below/behind your steering cylinder. That is where it is at on my 2002 Yamaha OX66 200. Here is a pic:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3694.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13727&title=2002-ox66-tilt-tube&cat=500)
There is a plastic piece that clamps on the tube, and it has an arm that contacts the sender. This plastic piece has broken on me before.
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:1rij: :08: thank you! My sender was kinda tucked up under the lower cowling and was totally gummed up- sprayed some liquid wrench in there to loosen it up and then checked the gauge- works perfectly! Good to hear SeaBob on the ole interweb! Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions: right on the money as usual
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added a dodger to the boat a little bit ago. not keeping it on full-time but it will be nice for sandbar and diving trips.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/6D04A31B-0299-478D-B061-2389BC602174.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/1974%20222%20Aquasport/6D04A31B-0299-478D-B061-2389BC602174.jpg.html)
also cleaned up the hydraulic steering lines for the lower helm. originally I had the T fitting at the helm instead of "inline". this cluttered up the space in there. I moved the T fitting to a bracket I made on the underside of the top of the console and then ran 16" "feeder" lines down to the helm with a 90' fitting. much cleaner appearance as well as not worrying about a line getting snagged when someone pulls something out of the console.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/51B6A04A-5058-4696-9796-50A978155957.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/1974%20222%20Aquasport/51B6A04A-5058-4696-9796-50A978155957.jpg.html)
tackling the wiring next as it drives me crazy.
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The dodger is a nice addition and the cleanup looks great :thumleft:
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Thanks!
forgot to post, but this is how the lines were originally.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/1974%20222%20Aquasport/5970E4E6-BB5C-4AD9-9E9F-AF1697617F59.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/1974%20222%20Aquasport/5970E4E6-BB5C-4AD9-9E9F-AF1697617F59.jpg.html)