Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Electrical => Topic started by: Glock Diver on May 09, 2011, 08:58:48 PM
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Found these on eBay and ordered a few sets. (after seeing Treefish's sweet red and white LED courtesy light setup at the Gathering, I've been jonesing to get some!). Not sure of the quality, but at these prices, I'm willing to risk it!
48" long flexible strip of 60 white LED bulbs, waterproof, $1.00 each.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... AUS%3A1123 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120715098710&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3AOU%3AUS%3A1123)
12" long flexible strip of 15 Red LED bulbs, waterproof, $3.29 each.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 2613wt_902 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110681184950&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3AOU%3AUS%3A1123#ht_2613wt_902)
Edit: the lights arrived in 11 days.
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Well, where's bumpster when you need him?
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Heck of a deal. Just grabbed 10 of them. Thanks for the heads-up!
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did they combine shipping?what was the total cost for 10?
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How long will they take to get here from Hong Kong? I want to jump on some of those but the shipping has me worried.
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I bought 5 sets of Red and 5 sets of White. Total order came to $33, including shipping. I received a shipping notice that the order had shipped on May 9, and estimated delivery is May 26 - June 8.
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Well I bought six LED strips. Lets see how long that slow boat takes to get them here.
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How long will they take to get here from Hong Kong? I want to jump on some of those but the shipping has me worried.
Count on at least 2 weeks to get here from Hong Kong. I've purchased quite a few things from over there and 2 weeks was the fastest.
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Found these on eBay and ordered a few sets. (after seeing Treefish's sweet red and white LED courtesy light setup at the Gathering, I've been jonesing to get some!). Not sure of the quality, but at these prices, I'm willing to risk it!
The quality will be just fine, but you may want to shorten the length. the white ones at night can be blinding if you have too many led's together. The led strips usually come to where you can cut the strips after every third led and then solder the joints together, so to spread the light out and not have a concentrated bright spot.
Here's my makeshift schematic of what I'm talking about. the equal signs are the pos and neg leads and the X's are led's.
(+/-)=====XXX=====XXX=====XXX=====XXX=====.
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Well I did get a notice that my item was shipped. Most of this stuff is made over there anyways so might as well buy it there LOL
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The quality will be just fine, but you may want to shorten the length. the white ones at night can be blinding if you have too many led's together. The led strips usually come to where you can cut the strips after every third led and then solder the joints together, so to spread the light out and not have a concentrated bright spot.
Here's my makeshift schematic of what I'm talking about. the equal signs are the pos and neg leads and the X's are led's.
(+/-)=====XXX=====XXX=====XXX=====XXX=====.
Thanks Jim, I know what you mean. I'll hook 'em up and see how the brightness turns out, and modify like you mentioned, if I need to. I suppose I could also just black out some of the bulbs, if it's too bright.
However, my plan is to install the shorter RED strips in the same places (under the gunwales), using a 3-way switch, to use when I need to preserve my night vision. Hard to say from the eBay pics, I don't know how big these bulbs will be.
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I think someone called my name. How are you Bob? I hear you are busy and thats a good thing.
My take on inexpensive LEDs, you get what you pay for and there is no returning it. You also get no customer service. This can work if you have no issues hooking up low voltage lighting. The biggest issue with these LEDs is that they are the manufacturers standard waterproof product and waterproof does not mean submerged. The other thing and I know Bob will back me on this is, the majority of boats do not run 12 volts, they run at close to 14volts unless you are anchored with the engines off. LEDs will suck up alot of over voltage but they dont do it for long. Some members here can tell you all about my service and my product but you cant buy it for 3.00. I have been working with LEDs for many years so even though you might not want to pay for my product you can always feel free to ask my advice if you run into issues with the product you do decide to buy.
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I have been working with LEDs for many years so even though you might not want to pay for my product you can always feel free to ask my advice if you run into issues with the product you do decide to buy.
I just have to say :salut:
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did they combine shipping?what was the total cost for 10?
They don't combine shipping. Total was 42.95 for 10.
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Rob is correct in all that he says. Over-voltage will rob (pardon the pun...) the lights of their bulb-life. Try this. Hook up a set of LEDs designed for 12VDC to 120VAC. They'll work for a while, pretty soon the bulbs just start burning out one after the other. Granted, that's a little extreme, but the point is...
Rob is also right, you get what you pay for, just as in any business. While I'm not trying to throw a damper on this thread (although it probably appears that I am!), I'm just stating a business caveat that we all are aware of.
BTW, Rob, have you given anymore thought to coming out with spreaders, along the lines of Taco (hate that light, has a really "funny" light pattern), or ScarabChris' (LOVE that light, and it's worth $85 per)?
And, yes, I am busy... :thumleft:
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Rob is correct in all that he says. Over-voltage will rob (pardon the pun...) the lights of their bulb-life. Try this. Hook up a set of LEDs designed for 12VDC to 120VAC. They'll work for a while, pretty soon the bulbs just start burning out one after the other. Granted, that's a little extreme, but the point is...
Rob is also right, you get what you pay for, just as in any business. While I'm not trying to throw a damper on this thread (although it probably appears that I am!), I'm just stating a business caveat that we all are aware of.
BTW, Rob, have you given anymore thought to coming out with spreaders, along the lines of Taco (hate that light, has a really "funny" light pattern), or ScarabChris' (LOVE that light, and it's worth $85 per)?
And, yes, I am busy... :thumleft:
I have given spreaders a thought. My biggest problem seems to be that I have very little time. I am running 4 residential projects plus the Marine tape and the Flounder Lights. Not enough hours in the day and not enough days in the week
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Bumpster, do you have a website? I wasn't familiar with your product line.
The old adage, that "you get what you pay for" is usually true, I agree. Who knows, these lights might turn out to be crap. But they might turn out to be really good LEDs, and for a minimal investment, I'm willing to chance it. :wink:
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Here is a novel use of Samsung LED's:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2FX9rviEhw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2FX9rviEhw)
Mutton fancy...
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Here is a novel use of Samsung LED's:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2FX9rviEhw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2FX9rviEhw)
Mutton fancy...
Scott, I'm not sure what to even say about that.... Strange! The baaah-studs!
Anyhow, I ran the wires and new 3-way switch today (so I can use 1 switch to turn on either the Red or White lights). Now just waiting on that dang Hong Kong postal system to send my dirt cheap LED's.
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Anyhow, I ran the wires and new 3-way switch today (so I can use 1 switch to turn on either the Red or White lights).
Liked my idea, eh?
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Anyhow, I ran the wires and new 3-way switch today (so I can use 1 switch to turn on either the Red or White lights).
Liked my idea, eh?
You betcha! :idea: Glad you mentioned it, cause I'm out of aux switch space, unless I wanted to start getting creative. But I think this'll work perfect.
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I was pleasantly surprised to find a package from China in my mailbox today! The LED's, ordered on 5/9/11, arrived just 11 days later. Not too shabby. Hooked each strip up and tested, all seem too work just fine. Pretty bright too! :idea: :idea:
Very surprised how small the wire gauge is... Must be 28ga or something. Hope I can make a strong connection. :scratch: maybe solder instead of butt connector?
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Cool! maybe mine will be here soon!
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The led strips usually come to where you can cut the strips after every third led and then solder the joints together, so to spread the light out and not have a concentrated bright spot.
Here's my makeshift schematic of what I'm talking about. the equal signs are the pos and neg leads and the X's are led's.
(+/-)=====XXX=====XXX=====XXX=====XXX=====.
OK, I do need to trim one strip, and these look a little different than your description. They have the sets of 3, but then a single diode in between every set of 3. Kinda like this:
wire leads (+/-)===X===X===X=O=X===X===X=O=X===X===X=O=X===X===X=O=X=|
WHERE SHOULD I CUT?
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The led strips usually come to where you can cut the strips after every third led and then solder the joints together, so to spread the light out and not have a concentrated bright spot.
Here's my makeshift schematic of what I'm talking about. the equal signs are the pos and neg leads and the X's are led's.
(+/-)=====XXX=====XXX=====XXX=====XXX=====.
OK, I do need to trim one strip, and these look a little different than your description. They have the sets of 3, but then a single diode in between every set of 3. Kinda like this:
(+/-)=====XXX===O===XXX===O===XXX===O===XXX===O===XXX===O
WHERE SHOULD I CUT?
You dont see any clearly defined cut marks with solder pads on each side? If not you may not be able to trim them.
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Success! ...For those who also ordered some of these, this is what your strip will look like:
X = a Light Emitting Diode
O = a non-light emitting diode
wire leads (+/-)===X===X===X=O=X===X===X=O=X===X===X=O=X===X===X=O=X=|
I made a cut right here ("/") to shorten a strip, and it worked fine. No soldering or anything:
wire leads (+/-)===X===X===X=O=X===X===X=/O=X===X===X=O=X===X===X=O=X=|
I put that shortened strip under my foot rest at the helm. Don't mind the tape holding the strip in place while the 5200 dries! Also put one 4' strip under each aft gunwale, in addition to some Reds in the same places. Will take photos of the entire thing later.
Not bad for $1
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z320/MikeVAg33/895c0d2e.png)
Now I'm looking for spots Forward of the console to add some lights (I have two extra 4' strips), but I really don't see any obvious places. Anybody gotten creative up there?
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anchor locker?
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Where's the red?
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Well my taped up styrofoam box from china arrived today. The LEDs look good. Can't beat the price. I was surprised to see actual 3M double sided tape on them.
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Reds are installed, but I haven't taken a good picture yet. Problem is, my boat is parked under a rather large and bright streetlight, so I need to move it to a dark place on the lot to snap a good photo.
I like the idea of anchor locker, but the thought of running THAT wire is scary!
Wingtime, I used 5200 in addition to that 3M adhesive. I don't think it would have held very long after getting wet. Cute packaging, wasn't it!
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Cute packaging, wasn't it!
Yup like a baby cooler or something.... I wonder if a beer can will fit in that thing! :lol:
In addition to the self sticky led strips I bought two of the higher output type that have larger leds and are molded in a clear vinyl of some type.
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Reds are installed, but I haven't taken a good picture yet. Problem is, my boat is parked under a rather large and bright streetlight, so I need to move it to a dark place on the lot to snap a good photo.
I like the idea of anchor locker, but the thought of running THAT wire is scary!
Wingtime, I used 5200 in addition to that 3M adhesive. I don't think it would have held very long after getting wet. Cute packaging, wasn't it!
Mike,
Remove the pie at the fuel fill. Go from the pie on the deck over the fill neck to the pie on the inwale. Then, using a stiff cable, feed it forward to the locker. You can do it, it may take a few attempts...
A tip to you guys when you go to install. It sounds like this outfit is using the same 3M tape that Rob and ScarabChris use...and it doesn't stick when applied up underneath something. At first I started using 3M genearal spray adhesive, and a good cleaning of the mating surface with acetone. Next, I went to 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. This worked a little better. Now, I'm using several drops of 2-part epoxy evenly spaced. Won't go anywhere after that. 5200 would work as well, I imagine...
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5200 would work as well, I imagine...
a few spots of 5200 is what I used to mount all of my LEDs. I used some duct tape to hold them in place until the 5200 dried.
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I like the idea of anchor locker, but the thought of running THAT wire is scary!
They dont draw much....hook them up to your running lights in gthe bow.
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If your worried about the voltage, a simple resistor in line should reduce the voltage and make the led's last longer. I have forgotten most of the formulas, but I will pull out my old electronics books and see if I cant find the formula for y'all.
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so here it is:
The mathematical equation that describes this relationship is: I=V/R
where I is the current through the conductor in units of amperes, V is the potential difference measured across the conductor in units of volts, and R is the resistance of the conductor in units of ohms. More specifically, Ohm's law states that the R in this relation is constant, independent of the current.
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/d/de/OhmsLaw.svg/220px-OhmsLaw.svg.png)
If I remember this correctly, if we are running 14.5 volts and want 12 volts, we would need to install a 2.5 ohm resistor across the circuit to reduce the voltage by 2.5 volts. I did these calculations based on 1 amp. you would have to measure your amperage on your circuit and enter them into this calculator to get the resistor value. Wattage would also be another factor to know so that you can get the correct size resistor (based on the wattage) so it will not burn out.
http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp
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It's a little more complicated with LEDs then regular incandescent bulbs. They require that the polarity be correct for one thing. In Diode operation (Leds are diodes) the current flow is from the negative to the positive terminal. They also require specific voltage to operate and if you add a resistor is series you may be hindering it's ability to operate.
My $.02
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Here is what you need to figure LED resisitors:
http://metku.net/index.html?sect=view&n ... eng#single (http://metku.net/index.html?sect=view&n=1&path=mods/ledcalc/index_eng#single)
Good luck!