Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 22-2 Rebuilds => Topic started by: slvrlng on April 10, 2011, 10:22:08 PM
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Figured I would start a rebuild thread since yesterday I decided on a whim to pull the coffin hatch cover. This all started when I tried to pull the starter bendix off the motor and quickly realized that I was way over my head. Since I was already there at the boat and since I had a brand new beckson clear pie plate to replace the siliconed and dryrotted one. I decided to pull the old one.
This is what it looked like.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222132.jpg)
So I start to remove the screws. I pushed the screwdriver down into the silicone where the screw should be but it was really down in there! I gave up on that one and went to the next one, same thing! What the heck! I tried one more and realized there weren't any screws in any of the holes! I got my putty knife and went around the edge of it and it just pops out.
UH OHHHH!
Can you say WET!
Water was literally dripping out of the edge of the hole.
When I saw this I knew what was next, follow jduprees lead and pull the hatch like he told me.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222189.jpg)
Check out how much silicone the previous owner used to "seal" this thing up. Boy this idea really works well!
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222191.jpg)
So I got my screwdriver and started pulling the console screws. Most of them I could just pull them out once I had loosened them a little. I took jdupree's lead again and leaned the console over on the starboard rail and tied it off. I then stared removing the hatch screws, most of them actually were in there pretty good. Now the fun part! How in the heck do I get all of that silicone to let go of the hatch? My harbor freight tool that I used on the anchor hatch worked perfect! I mean this thing is awesome! It has already paid for itself 10 times over. I went around the gap with it and had it out in 15 minutes! Of course the core is mulch and completely soaked.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222185.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222188.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222186.jpg)
Now for some good news! The previous owner didn't lie he actually did replace the tank 2 years ago! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
It too has a couple of issues but so far it looks really good except for the fact that the hack silicone job leaked water.
Check out the where the clamp is on the pickup! Dang I wonder where all that black stuff came from?
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222184.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222179.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222182.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222180.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222183.jpg)
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:thumright:
You know, these old boats would probably be in a lot better shape when we get them if it were not for the half-witted DIY previous owners and shade tree mechanics.
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:thumright:
You know, these old boats would probably be in a lot better shape when we get them if it were not for the half-witted DIY previous owners and shade tree mechanics.
You can say that again! ALL of the damage on my boat was from stupid PO's and lack of simple PROPER maint. Loose screws with no 5200 on them. Little to no caulking around the coffin cover, hack jobs of installing things. etc etc
I took my girlfriends father out fishing on my boat yesterday. He used to work at Morgan Yacht back in 70's doing glass work etc. He even helped built the Nautilus submarines for the 10,000 leagues ride at Disney World. He was very impressed with the Aquasport.
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Here area a couple of shots before I cut the glass off the bottom of the hatch. This ended up being a layer of mat over a layer of 24 oz roving. The wood is gone in places and the rest is saturated. I bet this thing weighed 100 lbs. I measured it today and its 29 wide and 92 long.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222193.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222194.jpg)
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So I got busy this weekend and got most of the core out. The skin now weighs about 15 lbs.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222196.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222197.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222195.jpg)
Its a real shame that this thing was soaking wet. Only about 15% was mulch. I still have a skin of ply left in places to remove but its pretty much cleaned out now.
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Slvring,
A 7" grinder with a 36 grit sanding pad will get that layer off in a heartbeat. That's what I did to some of my stuff and it ripped it off in seconds instead of hours with that vibrating tool. Just a thought...
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Yeah thats my next step tomorrow! I use the vibrating tool to cut the glass around the edge since its easier to control. Plus tomorrow my wifes car won't be sitting next to where I'm working. Don't want to piss her off with fiberglass dust all over her pride and joy! :queen:
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I got the wood all the way out and found there was resin starved glass under the wood where it had sucked the resin out of the mat when they laid this thing up. I ground most of the bad glass out until it looked pretty solid. I then laid a layer of mat down and wet it out with epoxy just to give it some thickness since all that was left was basically the gelcoat. I let this sit for a couple of days and then got my belt sander and leveled it out I then used my DA with 80 grit to finish it out.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/coffin%20lid%20recore/coffinlidrepair001.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/coffin%20lid%20recore/coffinlidrepair002.jpg)
I found some H45 Divinycell up here and cut it to fit. I could only find it in 32 x 48 pieces but I think these will work. I cut them to fit and after talking to Fitz decided that I need to shave the edges down since the H45 doesn't have much screw holding ability. The idea is to create a fillet around the edge made of mostly thickened epoxy with cabosil and milled fiber. This should give plenty of strength around the edges since that is where the screws are.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/coffin%20lid%20recore/coffinlidrepair006.jpg)
Once I got my supplies I primed the entire inside of the skin with neat epoxy. I then spread thickened epoxy with cabosil and used a 3/16" slotted trowel to get an even coat on half of the skin. I then placed the H45 over this area and weighted it down to seat it. I moved the weight around on it every few minutes to make sure it had good contact with the skin. While the weight was on one side I mixed more "glue" and spread it on the other half. I then repeated the weight on this side as well.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/coffin%20lid%20recore/coffinlidrepair004.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/coffin%20lid%20recore/coffinlidrepair005.jpg)
I then put a fillet around the edge and tried to level it as best I could with the edge leaving enough space for the 1708.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/coffin%20lid%20recore/coffinlidrepair007.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/coffin%20lid%20recore/coffinlidrepair009.jpg)
I spread epoxy over the whole lid and wet out half of the 1708 which I had folded back on itself. When I laid it on the lid I didn't have it lined up and had to move it back as it was short of the edge. What a mess!
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/coffin%20lid%20recore/coffinlidrepair014.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/coffin%20lid%20recore/coffinlidrepair013.jpg)
I got it fixed and wet out the glass. Since it was so cold I waited till the next morning and ran a fillet of mostly resin and milled fiber around to fill the core all the way to the edge.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/coffin%20lid%20recore/coffinlidrepair015.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/coffin%20lid%20recore/coffinlidrepair016.jpg)
The good news is it worked!!! :cheers:
The other good news is the whole thing now weighs just under 37 lbs. :cheers:
A little grinding around the edge tomorrow and I should be good to go.
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nice work! :salut:
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Love the horseshoes :wink:
Lookin' good Lewis. :thumright:
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Looks good Lewis :thumleft:
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Yo buddy,
Was looking at the pics you posted on the other thread, and remembered you had talked about re-doing the floor at some point.
JD just did his with Durabak, you won't believe it....it looks brand new. If you decide to mess with it, give him a holler for install tips....he got a great job.
It comes in different colors too, and he said it was very reasonable...He got two coats with one gallon, and some left over :thumleft:
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Yo buddy,
Was looking at the pics you posted on the other thread, and remembered you had talked about re-doing the floor at some point.
JD just did his with Durabak, you won't believe it....it looks brand new. If you decide to mess with it, give him a holler for install tips....he got a great job.
It comes in different colors too, and he said it was very reasonable...He got two coats with one gallon, and some left over :thumleft:
Thanks for the compliment Scott. It is amazing what this stuff will hide such as birdshot, buckshot, silicon, etc. :wink: Came out looking like a new deck :cheers:
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So between work and my back going out I haven't been able to get anything done on this thing lately. But I got busy the last week and got the hatch back in. I used Skoot's method with the plumbers putty around the edge of the coffin then used the original screws to tighten it back down. I then siliconed the gap for a final seal from deck to hatch.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222210.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222211.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222216.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222213.jpg)
Looking at this picture I really don't think this hull has a rigging tube.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222214.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222219.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222220.jpg)
So I got it back in and got the console back down too. On Saturday I took it to my motor guy, so I should be in the water in the next two weeks. :cheers:
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nice job :salut:
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NICE WORK! The plumbers putty is a great idea. If you ever have to get back in there in the future it will be much easier to get the lid back up. Mine is sealed with just a bead of silicone between the deck and lid. So far it has been bone dry. I do get a little condensation in there now and then. I think if there was a way to increase airflow in the coffin the tanks would last much longer. But then again 30 years isn't bad either.
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Very nice, Lewis! And I have dealt with a lot worse wiring... :shock: :shock:
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The condensation worries me also, so I found a can of some stuff I used to sell and sprayed two coats on the exposed aluminum before I sealed it up. This stuff is called Amber Corrosion coating. It is used in interior automotive applications. It is like I coated the aluminum in beeswax. You can get it in a spray can and since that's what I had I used just about the whole can. You can barely tell anything is on there until you touch it. It will never truly totally dry, it just stays tacky. I called them and tech support said it is perfect for this application but the material is soluble in gas so as long as I don't have a leak everything is good.
This is her sitting in front of the mechanics shop. After I parked it I had 3 people pull over and say what a cool boat it was. That for me is the first time that has happened with this boat. I think my hat will still fit!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222200.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222202.jpg)
Ran into a little weather on the way home.
Dang lightning was popping all around the truck!! :pale:
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222205.jpg)
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"I think if there was a way to increase airflow in the coffin the tanks would last much longer. But then again 30 years isn't bad either".
I know that everyone wants to eliminate the original vent system on the older hulls to "slicken up" the look but I really think there is some merit to the design. I would have to think a 30+ mph wind through those vents while running would create a lot of CFM under the deck to evaporate moisture. Conversely, a downpour while running would also had lots of moisture there also. But 80% of the time we are running in no rain conditions. The one blessing we have on the older designs is tank access. Once you eliminate that by putting a solid floor in on a rebuild; that tank is there forever until it fails and you have to destroy the rebuild by cutting the floor out to gain access. I dont think this would have been a big deal 10 years ago, but the fuels of the future will continue to reak havoc on marine fuel systems and who knows how long a tank will last on alcohol enhanced fuels; this is a relatively new issue that we really are unable to predict.
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Fitz,
I think it is beneficial for all builders, and re-builders, to allow relative ease for the removal of fuel tanks. Yeah, one may have to remove a component or 2, but to actually have a removable hatch is the key. If boats were used on roads, with a fuel tank area that was basically entirely open to the environment, then we wouldn't have to worry about such things...but they aren't. If people used their boats as often as they used their cars, then we wouldn't have to worry about such things...but we don't.
Therein lies the conumdrum... :?
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Great points all. First, the airflow...
Although am doing away with the bow vents, and the rear outflow...have made provisions to vent the bilge. The bottom of the large hatch will be left open to the bilge on the 22-2. Plenty of room for bucket storage on the bottom ledge, easy access....but just as important...bilge ventilation in the off-season, inside or under cover. Not nearly as good as constant airflow...but better than no flow at all. Can easily place a fan down there if desired.
And the point of a fuel cell hatch is well-taken...but at a high cost. The only way to do it would be to save the female portion of the deck....glass it back in like the huge hatch that is is...Then save/rebuild the old hatch, or if too far gone...take a "quickie-mold" from the old part and build a new hatch. Professionally installed...another 2K or more easily. Major labor factor? Digging out all of the old rotten plywood, then the recore....on both parts, male and female.
Guess its how far do you want to go? A professional or near professional rebuild...tank correctly installed with regard to moisture retention/dissipation....I'm thinking 30 years, with composite materials.
Nevertheless...a tank hatch would be ideal. Especially as stated, fuel quality now and yet to come. Certainly and regardless, hose access/removal should be planned on.
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Fitz made a great point this afternoon...and is worth sharing.
Ethanol in gasoline has been around for only two years or so.
He reports a discussion involving internal breakdown of transfer components (pipe) as related to ethanol in gasoline.
And to the extent the transfer pipe was metal ...this directly relates to metal storage systems in boats (aluminum) versus polyethylene storage systems for ethanol-infused gasoline.
Here's the kicker per the study: The vegetable enzymes/bacteria in the ethanol attacked the metal.
Worst-case scenario but...we need to be aware.
Lew.... thanks for the short digression here.
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One of my trade journals that deals with flow controls and fluid transfer at the industrial level had an article that talked about the rapid degrade and cracking of transfer pipes that process ethanol. It did not specify whether this was pure ethanol or E10. I suspect they were talking about pure ethanol. Apparently, an acidic bacteria grows in the ethanol and attacks steel pipes. This does not conclude that it would attack aluminum but it does make you wonder. In studies, they concluded that they are going to have to intoduce a biocide to help control the corrosion issue. When my rebuild project is launched in the next several years, I will insist on tank access and assume the added expense for that piece of mind.
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I got the boat back from the motor guy. New stator, impeller, plugs, linkage cams, and now it runs great. The TTU I got from flounderpounder works great it will pick me and the motor up when I stand on the ventilation plate! Thanks Mark! Today I got the console screwed down and caulked, I also got the cooler seat screwed down as well. I knew the keel rollers were a little bad looking so I got a closer peek and holy crap they were toast! You have to remember I live in ATL and there aren't very many boat supply places around, so i started looking for replacements. No luck. I am going to order some on Tuesday and since I will be traveling this week for work I will have to put them on when I get back. After looking at the trailer I have also come to the conclusion that rather than waste money on rollers I am going to go ahead and put front bunks on it. If I put the bunks on I will only need 3 rollers at the back so I won't scrape with the prow when loading or unloading.
Check out the condition of these rollers.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222223.jpg)
Since the storm is headed this way for the next few days I decided to put the cover on it for the first time. So once again she is patiently waiting for me to get back and finish up. I built a couple of bows for the cover out of PVC and they really seemed to help with the water shedding.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222224.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipaway222226.jpg)
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Lewis,
She looks great where she sits. Take care this week, look forward to seeing some water shots! And enjoy tomorrow, while you're at it! :salut: :salut:
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sounds like you're making great progress Lewis,great job,those rollers look awful,whats holding the boat off the trailer now?
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It actually has four bunks. They are all 2 x 6. The middle two are turned flat against the hull and the two outer ones are turned vertical at a slight angle to match the deadrise. The bow rests on the stop. I have two crossmembers that I can attach the risers for the forward bunks. It should make loads and unloads a piece of cake! I also have some really heavy duty galvanized guides that are too wide right now. they are welded so I'll have to get them cut and rewelded to the right width. Here is a question, how do you determine how wide they need to be. I am thinking measure the maximun width of the gunwales and add 2 inches. Does this sound about right?
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not sure about the width,may need to be a little wider than that,don't know how yours is,but mine is a little wider in the midships [nautical word use,triple word score] than it is in the stern [ditto] so if you base your guide measurement on just the stern width,you get the idea.the guides just help steer the boat on the trailer,a little wide is ok :cheers:
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not sure about the width,may need to be a little wider than that,don't know how yours is,but mine is a little wider in the midships [nautical word use,triple word score] than it is in the stern [ditto] so if you base your guide measurement on just the stern width,you get the idea.the guides just help steer the boat on the trailer,a little wide is ok :cheers:
Pete, what does athwartships get me? Actually, I think some nautical words were made up by drunken sailors who couldn't "talk too good" in the first place... :lol:
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thats a good one Bob,thats the distance between the amidships,or the beam as we say!crazy sailor talk,must be from all that rum :cheers:
yes,I looked it up!
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Yes my hull has a little "tumblehome". Google that one guys! :lol: :lol: :lol:
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we have a winner!did you actually know that one? :cheers:
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Without looking it up, mind you, it's basically where your hull is wider below the hull-to-deck joint than at the joint itself. In other words, looking down from the gunnels, the hull bows out before coming back in to the chine...which is the point where the hullside meets the hull bottom...
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Tumblehome: an outward curve of the hull sides at the transom, with the top being narrower than the bottom. The width across the stern gunnel is less than the comparable width at the stern waterline. And I didn't look it up either :lol:
Most prevalent on displacement and semi-displacement hulls, Maine lobster boats, Hinckley's etc.
In recent times on planing hulls...the Southports and the new Chris-Crafts....mainly for beauty/identity.
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So I finally started buffing the cap. I hadn't touched it yet because I was still working on the motor and steering and the rest of the issues. This is just the first cut and with 3M 5954, no wet sanding. I still have 2 more steps to go through before wax. I thought it looked cool to see the reflection of the sunset through the trees on the gel.
Not bad for 28 years old.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipawayrepair005.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Slipaway%20---1984%20Aquasport%20222/slipawayrepair006.jpg)
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Not bad at all, Lewis. It would be interesting to see how that same gel would've fared had she spent her life in FL...