Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Fuel tanks and anything about fuel systems => Topic started by: imonna 19 6 on March 13, 2011, 08:14:18 PM
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Hello all,
I got the boat back for the season and am about to begin a gas tank install. I have 6 weeks to get it done and have done a good amount of research. I am going to log the process on here partly for you to enjoy and as a way to get feedback as I go.
My 1979 19-6 currently has an above deck 19 gallon tank and an empty coffin. the old fuel fill location has been glassed over, but the starboard access hatch and lines are still in place.
I had the console off last year to inspect the coffin and lid and was pleased that they where both in good condition.
My first step, to bravely try and get some of the boat in the garage so i can work in inclement weather.
With the trailer just a 4 inches narrower than the garage door, it was a tight squeeze, but i got what i needed inside :cheers: . My wife just loves how it enhances our front yard
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/P1090661.jpg)
Next will be getting the batteries out, then the flip seat. Then disconnect the gas tank. I am going to leave the throttle, rigging, and steering cables in place and instead am going to just raise the console up and astern a a couple feet. Once it is out of the way, out comes the coffin lid.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/P1090663.jpg)
I expect the hardest part of the whole process will be to run the new fill and vent lines, so hopefully Skoot is correct and they will come out without a real struggle.
Still thinking through how to secure the new tank.
When all is said and done, I hope to have the new tank in, the batteries moved forward, creating some storage space under the forward seat.
Thats all for now
Bill
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Hey Imonna 19-6,
We like your green rub rail... Looks like you should replace it... Scotty, here is another 50' towards our minimum order quantity of 1.5 miles of custom new old stock forest green rub rail we need for our old AS`s. Imonna; your wife will eventually get over that protrusion sticking out of your cave! Caves and Aquasports were made for each other! One suggestion would be to mix little pots of resin and catalyst and start putting them around the inside of the house so she can can get used to that smell in the near future. Tell her its a new Glade sent; "Springtime at the boat builders"!
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:thumright:
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Hey man, a couple things
1. Just a heads up. I didn't remove or raise my console when I removed/installed my new tank. There was enough room for me to get everything in as is.
2. I didnt replace my vent hose, nor would I suggest it, unless its damaged. Mine is 36yrs old and looked great. (hell its just a vent a hose anyway) I say leave the vent hose as is.
3. As for securing the tank. I used a hybrid method of the Pascoe method. Here's what I did. I encapsulated a piece of plywood with fiberglass and tabbed it into the stringers(to use as a platform) Next, I 5200'ed neoprene strips (lengthwise) to the bottom of the tank to keep it off the plywood. I also 5200'ed strips to the Vertical front and back of the tank(near the bottom), and also on the top of the tank(for the straps).
Then, I dry fitted the tank. I Screwed & 5200'ed Galvanized angle brackets http://www.usatrailerpartscentral.com/S ... -1333.aspx (http://www.usatrailerpartscentral.com/SwivelTopAngleBracket-pd-1333.aspx) to the plywood platform at the front on back of tank(where the neoprene strips were previously installed) to keep the tank from sliding bow/stern. I also strapped the tank in from the top(using original straps) over the previous installed 5200ed neoprene strips.
My thinking is the 5200'ed neoprene stripes on the bottom, sides and top of the tank will be completely waterproof, sealed and protected from the elements. They will also let the tank breathe / dry if were to get wet.
Does that make sense :scratch: if not let me know.
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i love the set up. if you dont mind i will be stealing the idea. thanks for posting the idea im sure it will help us with haveing more ideas to go with.
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Hey man, a couple things
1. Just a heads up. I didn't remove or raise my console when I removed/installed my new tank. There was enough room for me to get everything in as is.
2. I didnt replace my vent hose, nor would I suggest it, unless its damaged. Mine is 36yrs old and looked great. (hell its just a vent a hose anyway) I say leave the vent hose as is.
3. As for securing the tank. I used a hybrid method of the Pascoe method. Here's what I did. I encapsulated a piece of plywood with fiberglass and tabbed it into the stringers(to use as a platform) Next, I 5200'ed neoprene strips (lengthwise) to the bottom of the tank to keep it off the plywood. I also 5200'ed strips to the Vertical front and back of the tank(near the bottom), and also on the top of the tank(for the straps).
Then, I dry fitted the tank. I Screwed & 5200'ed Galvanized angle brackets http://www.usatrailerpartscentral.com/S ... -1333.aspx (http://www.usatrailerpartscentral.com/SwivelTopAngleBracket-pd-1333.aspx) to the plywood platform at the front on back of tank(where the neoprene strips were previously installed) to keep the tank from sliding bow/stern. I also strapped the tank in from the top(using original straps) over the previous installed 5200ed neoprene strips.
My thinking is the 5200'ed neoprene stripes on the bottom, sides and top of the tank will be completely waterproof, sealed and protected from the elements. They will also let the tank breathe / dry if were to get wet.
Does that make sense :scratch: if not let me know.
Skoot,
It does, although it sounds like our 19-6s are a bit different. My coffin is completely glassed and still very sold, so looks like I get to skip the plywood step. heres a picture from last summer, before I cleaned it up. You can notice the old fill and vent lines.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/7acbc196.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/e9a50ad1.jpg)
However, my coffion lid stretches from under the cooler seat all the way to the font of the forward console seat and is just as wide as the console. The only way to get the coffin open is to bring the console up...no huge deal though. Did it last year and will only take a couple hours, besides gonna do the whole new wood trim and caulking anyway, so gotta take it all off.
I plan on building a tank that fits within 1/4 inch of the front and back of the coffin, so along with the 5200 on strips along the length to adhere the tank to the bottom (Pascoe style), i am no worried about sliding. I am worried about the tank lifting vertically and ripping off the bottom and need to figure out how to add a second way to secure it. I like the idea of 5200 the plastic strips as a foundation for a strap, but seems like the seams between the plastic at the edges might leave space for trapped water.
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ok just to run something pat yall. why does the fill have to go to the side deck. why couldnt you just mount the fill somewere on the side of the console. maybe the vent out of the top corner of the transom. if you run the line thru the bilge to the transom.
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You can run the fill on the console, the problem is when you fill sometimes it can be difficult to reach the cap from outside the boat. This usually takes two people to make it easier. Plus if something happened while filling any spill would now be in the boat.
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i kinda like the fill on the console gets it off the side. my 170 sits pretty high on its trailer and im not that tall so i have to get in the boat to fill up anyway. :oops:
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Not a bad alternative. If I run into issues with running the new hose, that would be my next best choice.
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Night one,
i had just enough time tonight to get started. first step take out batteries
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/813ac0b3.jpg)
next, the flip seat cooler
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/255f68b2.jpg)
then i figured I might as well take at the chaseway, which had little bits of bait from last year, assorted bits of plastic that probably belong somewhere, pine needles, and a whole lot of muck.
Next was to disconnect the old gas tank and capped the ends.
Not bad for an hours work.
Next time I get a few hours, ill lift the console and remove the coffin lid. Hard to not get overwhelmed when i see whats ahead of me, as well as all the little things i could add to this project; "Hmmm, the wiring could be redone", "oh, ya know, if i move those rod holders, i'd have more space", .................
Resist the urge..RESIST THE URGE. I only got six weeks till I have a week off work, a slip for my boat, and stripers in the sound.
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Well, Step two started well, but the area i figured would end up being the biggest problem, running the new lines, is proving difficult.
I got the console up and the coffin lid off, no prob
I was able to lift the entire thing with only having to disconnect the bilge pumps.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/2bbca99f.jpg)
I cleaned out the grime from the coffin and tried pulling the old lines. My hope was that i would get some movement, then I would atttach my new lines and pull them through.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/53b4441f.jpg)
My method applied tremendous force, spread out over the last three feet and i went 1 crank at a time on the winch letting the old hose slowly come out. I got excited when i started seeing movement on the coffin side only to then discover the fill side wasnt budging. eventually I pulled the coffin side about 3 inches, but it was all stretch and no real movement.
I went for broke after about an hour and the hose eventually sheared off.
Looks like my hose is foamed in all the way through. :x
heres a picture of the distance between the inspection hatch where the fill line is and where it enters the coffin.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/fdea5a6b.jpg)
here are close-up pictures of both sides.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/3e17b058.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/0e041dd9.jpg)
If anyone has ANY ideas on how to remove and run the new hose without cutting the deck open, please let me know.
Assuming no one does i have to decide between cutting the deck open (last resort) and moving the fill location to a new place, like the side of the console, which is not my first choice.
Any and all ideas feedback, alternative fill location ideas, etc welcome. Really want to do it right, but cant afford to do anything really costly.
Thanks
Bill
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I can't believe the come-a-long didn't pull it! Amazing... Walk away from this. Don't cut the deck! Lets ponder this. Really stupid question; you are sure that the fuel fill barb on the gunnel is fully disconnected right? No cable ties, entanglement with the vent hose? I would be more inclined to take a 4" diameter hole saw through the coffin side adjacent to the fill hose opening and reach in through the hole and pull out foam with your hand or some other primitive tool. A piece of rebar or something and keep jambing, reaming and break up the foam. You can always fix the hole in the coffin easily. Once the deck is cut, the integrity of the deck and value of the boat heads south. I know we will figure this out...
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Stupid Question, but have you disconnected the filler cap on the gunwale? I'm assuming you have... you want to make sure the hose clamps at the gunwale filler neck are completely removed- could be preventing the hose from sliding through if they are still snugged around the hose.
Whenever I installed my new hoses, I pulled the old filler hose out through the Gunwale, with the new hose duct taped to the old hose, and pulled it all the way through. One thing you might want to try is the remove the smaller vent hose first. It might be making a tight squeeze even tighter for the fill hose.
I really don't think your hoses are foamed in place. I'm pretty sure the foam was mostly in the stringers, with some foam added around the forward ice chest, and around the tank itself in the older 19-6 tank coffins (like mine and Skoot's). There could be some foam around your tank coffin, but I wouldn't think the foam alone would be enough to hold the hose so securely.
If all else fails, before you go to cutting your deck out, I would cut more access out of the tank coffin itself- right near your hoses.
This is where I would make a cut-
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/MarshMallowe196/FillerHoses.jpg)
Would at least enable you to see what might be holding the hose in place. Since the coffin is concealed, you could simply glass this back in and not worry with the cosmetics.
Good Luck!
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is there acsess to under the deck?does that starboard front fish box liner come out?if not maybe cut out for a pie plate port?it looks like the hose is wedged in there and won't go around that corner,could try enlarging the hole in the coffin?it is probly old and dried out,looks like a real pia.good luck
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IF your new tank is aluminum DO NOT USE GALVANIZED METAL NEAR IT! If they are in contact with each other two metals will cause galvanic corrosion that will eat through your tank in no time! Use ABS or starboard and 5200 to seal it to the tank wherever it touches the tank.
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The hose is disconnected on the fill side, as that fill hasnt been used in years and the cap is removed and glass over.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/c8f6bad7.jpg)
The fill hose goes straight down the gunwale.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/0e041dd9.jpg)
While the vent hose goes down about 6 inches over, so i would not expect removing it would free any space.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/7ae035d2.jpg)
I am not opposed to cutting out around the hoses in the coffin, but the tremendous amount of force I applied, enough to stretch that fill line 6 inches before it shredded, while still not budging on the other side, means something strong is holding it in place.
The starboard fish box is solid and I can cut it open if need by.
In order to run the new hose I was all ready going to put a larger round inspection hatch on the gunwale side in place of the one that is all ready there.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/fdea5a6b.jpg)
I can certainly do this if the thinking is that I could then dig out the insulation at that point and run the hose afterwords.
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what about going with a slightly smaller fill hose , just small enough to fit in the old hose and running it through the old hose. that looks like a pretty nice size hose so i think going a size smaller wont make to much difference when filling up.just another idea
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:scratch:
Did I miss something? Where and how were you filling the original tank?
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I bought it last year and this was under the console
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/594ed22f.jpg)
It is a 19 gallon POS that the previous owner put in.
The original tank was removed by the previous owner i presume, but he left the lines in and the coffin empty
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Like Fitz says....we'll get this figured out.
Jesse (Marshmallow) has a good idea...sure ain't gonna hurt a thing to make a cut there and see what you're up against.
After studying your photos carefully....that foam as we know has terrific adhesion....just try getting it off your fingers. Its strong. You will have to go in and mechanically break that bond. Good news is, per your other photo, looks like you only have a foot or so to deal with. Go in with a sharp curved carpet knife through Jesse's suggested cut. Make that hole as big as needed, no prob to deal with it later. Cut the mess off the hose with the knife. Those knives are small, sharp, sturdy, and push easily.
Get her loosened up....then you can use the come a long if needed. Go ahead and shorten the pull by cutting off the rest of the hose deep as poss. thru the inspection port. If you can get in there to work, you probably won't need the come a long.
That's my thinking, keep us posted.
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Try this, Get some steel rod (rebar) put it in the end of the hose near the old fill. Put tension on the other end with the comealong and then use the rebar to push the filler hose and wiggle it at the bend. Might work, Might not. The secret is going to be getting movement at the opposite end of the pull. Once it breaks free you are set
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Hello all,'
While I continue to work on loosening my old hoses, i wanted to learn more about the next step, which is running the new ones.
I have a fill and vent that go from the coffin to the starboard gunwale. The fill will be straightforward, but the vent has me wondering.
Here is a close up of the current hose. It only shows the hose clamp at the connection of the hose and vent fitting, but does show the angle of the hose. The fitting is the original fitting with a stern facing vent on the outside of the hull
My questions
When blowing through my vent line, should i have any resistance or any easy passage of air.
Do i run them any different or just like they where originally. There doesn't appear to be any rise in the hose to prevent water from coming in.
Ii dont know if a flame arrestor exists in this or whether i should put one in.I read somewhere they are required in the vent line
Anything I should do differently
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/e07435c1.jpg)
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imonna, our UConn cousin :thumright:
Leave everything per design. Aft facing vent fitting is fine. Many were set up facing downward towards the waterline, but this is an easy way to inject seawater on the entry. The way she's set up is good, but with a slight (30 degree) down-tilt to eliminate rainwater entry.
Yep, she should blow thru without restriction. Flame arrestor isn't necessary or required. Never heard of this as a requirement. Others here may have, and if so, hopefully will input.
Most importantly....how's it coming clearing the fuel-fill hose from the foam?
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Do i run them any different or just like they where originally. There doesn't appear to be any rise in the hose to prevent water from coming in.
My vent hose has a 360 degree loop in it near the gunnel vent fitting. It was originally installed this way and should help with any/possible water intrusion.
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Ok. easy first. My vent did not have a loop. Should i put one in when I make it to that step.
Now on the the continuing problem.
I was able to peek into the space around the lines going into the coffin and to my supriose, NO FOAM :shock:
Both hoses take a right turn through the stringer. I then started cutting away the foam around the lines in the gunwale . After 2 hours of cutting i was able to clear the lines all the way down to just about the deck level. Here is my effort at a picture
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/f9617e0b.jpg)
The black lines show the approximate course of the hoses. The orange/red coloring shows where I have removed foam from, which is about all I can reach without cutting a new hole.
Where do i need to clear to before I get some movement. I'll cut the larger inspection port for the side if it is likely that will do it, but obviously I dont want to cut it if there is something else going on.
After I cut the foam back to the point noted in the picture,i attached the comalong and got nothing but stretch on the fill hose.
Thanks in advance'
Bill
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Quite possibly you have foam between the starboard stringer and the hull. My CCP was that way.
In my WAC, the fill and vent lie on a depression on top of the stringer. I doubt Aqua put the hoses "though" the stringer.
I'm betting on more foam. If so, you'd need to cut a hole in the deck in the area where your lines intersect.
You could drill a small hole through the deck at that spot and see if you bring up foam and patch it with epoxy if you don't. :idea:
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Before cutting into the deck, should i consider leaving them be and running new lines up and out of the side of the console. I dont know much about the pros and cons of that location
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There IS more foam. Exactly where CB says. The stringer ha a depression in the top to allow for hose passage, then outboard of the stringer to the hull side is the foam. It begins about where your drawing (black lines) end.
Try the suggestion from the other night of putting a metal rod across the top of the hose (inside the gunnel), attach a steel cable to it, push the cable thru till it comes out the coffin side.... then use the come a long. This hopefully will at least break it free.
If you can break loose the big hose, the vent hose should be easier.
Ugh...what a bear.
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Before cutting the deck,I would enlarge the hole around the lines inside the coffin,you'll be able to see whats in there and get a tool in to loosen the foam,inside the cofffin will never be seen any way :scratch:
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I have today off so I am working on it.
I have now removed foam from the entire side and am left with whatever is under the deck.
I will try the bar and cable through the hose method next.
There is no foam between the coffin end and entering the top of the stringer, just open space, so by process of elimination i am down to whats on top of and right of the stringer.
I'll come back and post
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Before cutting the deck,I would enlarge the hole around the lines inside the coffin,you'll be able to see whats in there and get a tool in to loosen the foam,inside the cofffin will never be seen any way :scratch:
I may be wrong but I believe the coffin lies between the stringers (on the inside faces) and the foam (if there is any) between the stringer (outside face) and the right side of the hull. There may be foam in front of the coffin also but I don't know but enlarging the hole around the hoses would reveal that.
EDIT:
Beat me to it. Good luck.
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Taking the hole in the coffin idea a step furthur....
If you make the hole big enough, you can get your left hand up in there....then like Fitz was saying, take a piece of rebar and bang the foam on the other side of the stringer. That damn foam is like glue, you're gonna have to mechanically break it.
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Back to the drawing board.
I hooked up a big bolt on fill end, ran 1/4 cable through, hooked it to the come along and started cranking. The bolt and wire held and I cranked slowly, letting it sit for a bit between cranks. After about 10 cranks there was so much pressure that the eye bolt (3/8 inch steel)on the garage wall straightened and the come along went flying.
Unless someone has another option, I am down to three
1) Cut a hole in the lower side of the starboard gunwale and reach under to remove foam'
I hate putting an inspection hatch in the floo (after cutting a hole), so can I reach around the gunwale from the inside to remove the foam. Is there space at that turn
2) cut an opening in the deck where the lines are laying and remove foam. How wide is the stringer? so i can avoid it
3) leave these and run the fill/vent to the starboard side of the console.
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After finding foam on my CCP I ran the fill through through the CC. I left the vent in place.
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UPDATE
So i figured I would try again with the bolt/cable/winch idea so off to the hardware store for a stainless Eye bolt, and some other stainless hardware.
Hooked it back up with an improved hold on fill end and a stainless bolt on the anchor end and cranked it up.
Maybe some movement, maybe not. i definitely am compressing the hose on the fill end because it is three inches shorter than when I started, but the coffin end has NOT come out any.
I am going cook dinner and let it sit under pressure for a few hours and see if that does anything.
I really dont want to cut anything open, so any other ideas are appreciated.
Thanks
Bill
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An idea is maybe to try to turn the hose with a pipe wrench
See if you can put something solid in the hose and try to turn in the direction as the steel spiral go’s
Then it will get smaller in diameter and maybe will break loose from the foam
Good luck with your attempts
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i still think going with a slightly smaller hose and running it through the existing hose.
right now you have a perfect tunnel to run through just run a snake through connect new hose and pull. you could be done in 10 min and no cutting on the boat. the worse case is that you have to but the gas pump on the first click instead of wide open. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Not a bad idea if you can find the right size hose that will fit to the existing tank and fill connections. Or maybe find some reducers for each end.
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www.hosexpress.com/hose/marine/marine.htm (http://www.hosexpress.com/hose/marine/marine.htm)
Check out the sizes for the SW469 series. You may be on to something feeling2damgood!
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Just a suggestion- but I wouldn't use S/S hardware when trying to remove the hose. S/S is soft- you want to used some low carbon heat treated steel hardware. Plus it's a lot cheaper.
So far, you've pulled in one direction. If you're planning on putting the fill on the gunwale, why not go ahead and cut that glassed-over fill-hole open and try pulling the hose in the other direction. You're going to have to re-open that hole anyway, unless you decide to put the fill on console.
Worst case scenario, you can't get the hose through the gunwale either, put a fill cap there to make it look right, or go with a rod-holder in its place.
Just my thinking
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Thanks for all the ideas.
I am still working at it. I thought about pulling it out from the other direction, but the set up would prove to be difficult because of where i would have to anchor, as well as if it broke free there would probably be some damage to the gunwale.
I left it under pressure all night and it didnt budge.
I am confident that the only way I'll get it out is further cuts.
The possibility of running a smaller hose through is an option I am considering.
For now, I am pondering where to cut a hole if I need to.
There is no foam on the left of the stringer and the foam is removed from the gunwale, so how do I best get the foam from directly under the deck.
Option 1- cut a hole in the right deck storage box and remove what i can and try pulling again.
Option 2- cut a big hole in the side of the guwale, fish out whatever I can ASSUMING I CAN GET MY arm around the turn (anyone know about this), then put this in
http://www.carolinaboatoutfitters.com/c ... te-p-78378 (http://www.carolinaboatoutfitters.com/catalog/product_info.php/glove-storage-box-1158w-558h-5d-white-p-78378)
which would give me a functional benefit for the hole I make.
Option 3=cut the deck right over the lines and eventually put in a deck plate that is a tripping hazard in that location.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/73962972.jpg)
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If you are able to get a mechanic to loan you a borescope you would really be able to see what you are up against.
Just a thought before you start cutting.
http://www.amazon.com/Borescope-Flexibl ... 0161ZWM8/2 (http://www.amazon.com/Borescope-Flexible-Endoscope-Fiber-Optic/sim/B00161ZWM8/2)
Kedd
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http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R ... ogId=10053 (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100676340/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053)
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-in ... 67979.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-inspection-camera-67979.html)
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Put that 11x15 floor hatch in like ElectricalMarine did in front of the gas coffin. I'm gonna do that also. I have rebuilt 4 of these now and that will give you the ability to pull those line through. What happen sometimes is the hose get imbedded in that putty that bonds the floor to the stringers.
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Well,
I know why the hose wont come out.
I mulled everything and decided that the best option was to cut an opening in the right box, which could later be covered with a hatch and out of sight and i figured this would allow me to get at least most of the foam out between the stringer and right side.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/a8352c69.jpg)
Nice cut to fit an 8 inch hatch
Started removing foam, all nice and dry. the deeper I went the wetter it got. Eventually i decide to dig out the foam around the fish box drain hose to identiofy the source of water. Since the more I dug around that hose the wetter it got, I knew what i was going to find. Removed the foam to the side of the hull, found the fitting and POP-off it came the pretty much all ready detached from the fitting.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/2005d0c3.jpg)
It was a nice plastic fitting. So it had crackad and all the foam surrounding it and anything beneath it was drenched.
Gonna have to come back to this on another post.
So I went back to the fill line and dug, and dug, and dug and evenntually i reached the gunwale that had previously been cleared.
F View from the bottom
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/ee245e90.jpg)
and from the top
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/8b75a4f8.jpg)
So there is the problem.
the hose is pinched and compressed about 1/4 inch between the floor and the side. There is likely enough resistance at that one spot to hold it pretty solid, so all my force is being transmitted into the bend at the floor side opf that point.
I am gonna figure out a way to either cut the hose below it or knock it out of the groove and then take the comealong to it again.
I have the foam removed on three sides of the hose below the deck and have removed an inch or two above the stringer.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/516968ed.jpg)
back at it.
Now that I have so much opened up i expect i will get the hose out, then pull out the vent, and dig out as much wet foam as i can.
Just saw Fabuck's post. Lets hope there is no putty. I can drop a hatch in front of the seat, but it would be nice to get away with one new hole in the boat
Bill
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ITS OUT :cheers:
Ok its loose and ready to be pulled through dragging the new hose along with it.
Took me a long time to figure out how to get the hose un-wedged from that spot. No room to saw, to hard to slice with a carpet knife, couldnt be pushed or pulled free.
Finally decided to put a hose clamp on it right above the stuck point and tighten that sucker down so far that I compressed the hose diameter enough to wedge it free. Soon as i did that, the comealong pulled it easily.
When I re-run it I am going to alter the path and instead of coming up between the floor and the side, I am going to come up to the fill 3 inches ahead of that, just forward of then deck between the vertical rise and the right fishbox.
Gonna make my shopping list and start ordering what I need.
Thank you for everyones help.
Here are some pictures of the aftermath.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/7acd6d43.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/f2a81fbd.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/499b3a0d.jpg)
I got some questions, which i will make a new entry for so it doesnt get buried here.
Thanks again
Bill
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My coffin dimensions look very similar to skoots.
At the bottom, not including the tapered edge i have 63 3/4 long, 21 3/4 wide.
If I take the height from bottom to opening for hoses to come through on top of tank (with some space so they arent rubbing, I get 8 1/2 inches.
I read somewhere i need to account for tank expansion by leaving some space True? if so, how much.
I was told I need to leave 2 3/4 space on top of tank for various reasons (air space, fill nozzle, etc). Does this sound right. :?:
My coffin lid rests at 11 1/8 from bottom, so if I reduce the tank to leave the 2 3/4, I would get 8 3/8 for a new maximum tank height.
then I plan on adding 1/4 plastic strips the the bottom to keep elevated (per pascoe method), lets call it an even 8 inches.
Does this seem like the right sizing :?: :?: . Don't want to order the wrong size.
As far as where to locate fittings I will have an inspection hatch at the top and lower middle of the coffin. it would seem to make sense to put the fill, vent, and grounding tab all the way forward (same as skoots), put the sending unit under the aft inspection hatch, and I am guessing the pick-up should go as astern as possible? :?:
Anyone have any lessons learned about this?
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good job sir,we knew you'd get it!!! :salut: :salut: :cheers:
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Morning,
I just sent an email to Phil at Alloy to discuss a new tank. very exciting :D
Anyone have any helpful info, please let me know. I want to do this right and want to follow all ABYC standards. Fuel systems make me appropriately nervous.
Bill
PS Also, i dont know at one point top start a new topic with some of these questions or keep them going here.
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Phil at Alloy did a great job on my tank.
Really nice to deal with.
Kedd
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My coffin dimensions look very similar to skoots.
I was told I need to leave 2 3/4 space on top of tank for various reasons (air space, fill nozzle, etc). Does this sound right. :?:
My coffin lid rests at 11 1/8 from bottom, so if I reduce the tank to leave the 2 3/4, I would get 8 3/8 for a new maximum tank height.
Anyone have any lessons learned about this?
Give Phil the dimensions of your old tank and he will build a duplicate - he will also know if it needs internal baffles based on size. The old tank should have the gauge sender hole right under the deck plate, so you can replace the sender if needed. Phil will deliver the tank with a standard Teleflex sender installed if you ask - go ahead and have him do that - it will save you having to do it later.
You do want the pickup toward the back of the tank. Is there a "belly" in the botton of the tank? Often the bottom of the tank will not be flat so you can get every bit of gas out when you want to. You will want to use new hose for your new tank, both for supply and vent. Be prepared to be a bit shocked at the price of the marine fuel hose - but that's what you need to use. Use double clamps on the hose connections and make sure you use the right size clamps - clamps that are too big will leak air or vapors. Remember to offset the clamps by 180 degrees to get the best seal and to ensure vapor-tightness.
Now that you have the tank out, clean up the tub and check the bottom for cracks. If there is not a drain hole in the back of the tub, put one in using something like a garboard plug that you can remove from under the deck to see if any water is accumulating in the tub.
Good luck!
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What about grounds? Shouldn’t the fill, be grounded to the tank and the tank grounded to the battery? Or isn’t that required anymore?
:?:
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I am going to run 10 AWG ground from the bolt on the fill to the ground tab, then to grounding bar.
Unfortunately Gonefission the old tank was not in the boat when I bought it, just an above deck tank
I will have the maker of the tank install the sender so I don't have to. I am gonna do this whole thing the right way, so I am ok with the cost of the hoses.
Gonna do 1 1/2 ID A2 for fill
5/8 ID A2 for vent
New vent with vent screen
Double SS clamped both ends, alternated direction of clamp (one facing right, one facing left)
Gonna use A1 3/8 fuel line from tank to shut off, then from shut off to racor.
I have to choose between accessibility and effectiveness with the location of the pick-up.
My coffin is solid, but flat, so my tank will also be flat on the bottom. If I put the pick-up in the back of the tank, I wont be able to inspect or access it, but i will be able to shine a flashlight on it now and again.
If i move the pick up towards the center of the tank, say 20" forward from the back (on a 64" tank), it will be fully accessible. Peoples thoughts on which is better. can i have a pick-up with a longer tube installed :?: :?:
if not should I go for accessible or farthest astern for the location?
i do have a small hole in the bottom of the coffin to allow water to drain into the bilge, but it is not plugged and once closed up, i cant reach that spot from the bilge inspection hatch. Was just gonna leave it open. Its about 1/2 inch in diameter.
another question for those with an opinion: Do i re-foam in my new lines (where I removed the foam originally)?
I am NOT foaming my tank.
Thanks'
Bill
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Bill, first off, we're all happy you broke her loose. What a pain, but you had damn good advice, intelligent thinking from experienced folks who care. (Sounds like a commercial) :wink:
You're plan from here sounds good. You definitely want to be able to access the pickup. My rebuild is going along about the same as yours. Since will have a big oval livewell sitting over a potential rear inspection hatch...have chosen to keep all systems together, that is, everything will be below one inspection hatch at the rear of the console (halfway in the tank) Pickups included. Will trade off the ability to pick up the last five to eight gallons for ease of use/inspection.
Would not advise re-foaming anywhere near the hoses. If you were to have an issue/smell/leak....deja vu'. Better to eliminate this problem from occurring again.
GOOD JOB!!
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I’ve never had to replace my fill tube in any of my Aquasports, yet. But did in a Mako I had. The tube was foamed in. What I did, to make sure the foam didn’t cause a problem again. Was to use pvc, just like a rigging tube. Then foamed. Then ran my fill down the pvc pipe. If it had to be replace again. It would be a lot easier. I use gray pipe. Were I could get large swiping bends. If you have the room. You may want to conceder doing the same.
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Bill,
Phill at Alloy will be able to weld the pick-up forward where you want it and run a longer pick-up tube to the rear of the tank.
This is what he did for my tank.
Kedd
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Sounds good, but been two days and he hasn't responded. He is on the short list for fabricators, but I am going to move pretty quick. If anyone knows him personally and wants to nudge him, i'd appreciate it.
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Bill,
Did you call the shop or e-mail Phill?
He turned my tank around in 5 days and was good with the follow up.
Kedd
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Both. i left a message Sunday and the emailed the specs and info Sunday Night. I don't need the tank tomorrow, but I definitely want to have purchased it by the weekend so i start the the 9th. i have a local guy that I am waiting on too, but Phil comes highly recommended.
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I'm sure he will pull through.
They must have had 20 different tanks ready for pick up when I was there in Jan.
I'm sure this time of year they are slammed.
Kedd
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your probably right. Hopefully i will hear from him soon.
Thanks
Bill
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Bill, would give him a call back. Some folks don't ck. e mails on the weekend. (like me :roll: )
Know you'll be happy with their work.
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Bill i sent you a few emails/pms through here and you havent responded. Im a metal fabricator in your area and i am doing a tank on my aquasport currently and can also make you a tank or anything needed and completely weld it for you as well.
Thanks Dave
Let me know!!!!
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hello all,
a week of measuring, planning, and shopping and everything is ordered.
I have FRP coming in from new jersey for the Pascoe method. i hit Defender Industries annual clearance sale and got half my supplies and ordered the rest from Carolina outfitters.
I am ordering the tank tomorrow and looks like I will be able to get a 45 gallon.
(Feddc, thanks for the offer. Given some issues from the past I just had to go with a company that has insurance and can offer the full package.)
After several messages for Phil at Alloy, I never got a return call or email, but thanks for the help anyway.
I'll post some pics as i go along.
Thanks'
Bill
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I am little late, but I had the same problem with my 170. My brother, an engineer, placed a scissor jack from his rental car in between the hull and sole. The jack was properly supported and the weight distributed.
A clove hitch around the fuel hose and bowline tied to the engine hoist eventually did the trick. It took a total of 4 holes to be drilled, and the bowline readjusted each time. The hoist would pull a couple inches of hose each time, eventually lifting the boat ever so slightly. The weight of the hull would slide back to the trailer, thus pulling out more hose.
(http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/3307/p1010649m.jpg)
(http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/8431/p1010654b.jpg)
(http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/126/p1010656j.jpg)
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crazy how much resistance there can be with these hoses. I know how you felt when it finally came out. Nice pictures.
I just sent the deposit for my tank and my new hose is sitting on the dining room table, waiting tom be pulled through. Very exciting
Bill
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hello again,
I decided to open the entire chaseway for the new fuel lines because 1) wet foam and 2) I wanted to make sure I can run them without kinks. I cut a small hole in the coffin (per others suggestions) and had easy access to the foam.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/de450870.jpg)
I removed the foam
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/62287605.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/5638cdcb.jpg)
and it looks good.
I decided to leave the old vent line in as a conduit for the fill-to-tank-ground.
I discovered a while back that the original vent had been crushed by either the foam or bad placement, but I was able to snake it enough to get my ground wire in and it makes the perfect sheath.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/000c8929.jpg)
The tank has been ordered and after all is said and done the max size I can fit becasue the shape off the coffin is 41 gallons. Wanted more, but I'll take it. its the 2 3/4 clearance for the fill fitting that killed it.
Here is the gear for the install (so far)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/140f4cd1.jpg)
Tank will take 10 days and i am away next weekend, so I have plenty of time to do all the other things on my pre-season list.
Bill
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Hello all,
I made a lot of progress yesterday.
I added a new inspection hatch under the forward seat so i could keep an eye on my fill and vent
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/c2b5ff17.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/2d6ec172.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/9396bd53.jpg)
next was moving the deck fill back to the starboard gunnel, instead of right in the middle of the fuel tank coffin lid.
pictures upside down...sorry
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/45292e39.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/f3a6622b.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/1041423c.jpg)
next, out with the old vent fitting, which was too bad because I really liked it. No flame arrester screen in the old one and gonna do this right.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/99699c87.jpg)
New low profile one comes Monday.
Then, the guy who sold me the boat ran a washdown pump hose and wire and the bilge wiring from the bilge through the fuel tank coffin and up into to the console.
I figured if I moved them i would eliminate two holes in the coffin. I chased the hose and wires along the bilge pump hose (following the transom to starboard unbder the deck and over the stringer.
Took a couple hours and now I have to re wire the pumps because the wiring takes a longer route and wont reach, but I am happy with this change.
Today I am sanding off some old caulk off the coffin lid. Gonna build the new mahogany frame for under the console and gonna continue cleaning the grime off the coffin.
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One of the benefits of moving the tank back to the coffin is the increased space under the console. By moving the batteries astern a bit i open the space under my forward seat.
The look good here
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/e90ae15b.jpg)
you can also see the new forward hatch (above the fill and vent) and the middle hatch (above the pick-up and sender).
The wooden feet between the console and deck...what a nightmare. I noticed they where in pretty bad shape. No finish, many broken screws still in holes etc.
I got my hand on a nice piece of 4/4 mahogany that was just the right size and a couple hours in the shop and i replicated the old footing with a new one. I cant wait to see the look of the varnished mahogany around the console.
forgot to take picture of the old one before it was out, heres a pic of the old laid on top of the new
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/68d66019.jpg)
and the new
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/6d390953.jpg)
They are held to the deck with 1 1/2 pan head SS screws, each countersunk.
Now that it is pre-drilled I have to remove it and put a few coats of waterlox on it. While that cures i have to repair the old mouting holes, which were never properly sealed and are wet and tore up. Gonna tackle that when i mix a batch of thickened epoxy or i might buy a tube of that syringed epoxy that will help me get to the bottom of the hole without an air bubble.
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Tank will be ready for pick up Monday or Tuesday and after on-line purchases from Boaters world, carolina outfitters, McMaster Carr, woodcraft defender marine, jamestown distributors, and cabelas...i think I have ALMOST everything I need for the install, re-wiring of the bilge pump (which has outdoor light cables now thanks to previous owner), thru hull fixing, fuel vent re-install, etc..etc...
I do have one more question I havent solved.
What is the best way to secure the fuel fill and vent hoses tp prevent vibration.
i could use foam.
i could strap them in.
i could leave them be if securing is unneccessary.
let me know what you other tank re-build guys did.
Bill
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double clamp each connection,the straps to secure will work great. :salut:
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I had to go away this weekend, but made some progress late last week and tonight. I pick up the tank tomorrow afternoon, so i am pretty excited. I will definitly put pics on tomorrow night.
I cut new mahogany console trim and put several coats of waterlox marine finish on.
before
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/f7402200.jpg)
after
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/d0c0a00b.jpg)
i modified the starboard side piece. I cut it in two pieces allowing me to remove just the portion over the control tunnel so i could raise the console without removing the rest of the wood (also, it will make it much easier to properly seal the mahogany and securing hardware on most of the console before having to bring down the console). this will make sense to those of you that have lifted your console without disconnecting all your wiring.
I pre-fit the new deck hatch in the storage box.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/d791e114.jpg)
i cut the new hole for the new flushmount SS vent.
Here it is pre-fit.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/db744aea.jpg)
I used some of the excess FRP i bought for the pascoe method tank install as a backer for the fitting. it is 1/4" thick and works great.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/841fb056.jpg)
As you can see by the positioning I will be running the vent line up initially to prevent water intrusion.
Also, in order to keep it with the right pitch all the way to the tank, it worked better to run it towards the bow, then back to the tank. I am pretty sure that this will keep any traps from forming in the line.
I did an initial run of the new lines to see how they fit.
Looks like i got the right sizes on everything :cheers:
vent
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/6bd9f2cc.jpg)
fuel
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/40883ecb.jpg)
Both run, along with the old vent which is being used as a conduit for the tank/fill ground
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/c7369746.jpg)
Tomorrow i get the tank and prefit, but before i do much more i am going to use some Six10 to seal up a lot of old screw holes around the coffin, on the coffin lid, and around the deck.
Anyone every use this that have any suggestions
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/eedfa70e.jpg)
Last, but not least, i found this between the casting deck and hull, just forward of the coffin. Anyone recognize it? Kinda figured maybe someone floating around here would recognize it and identify the boat as one they used to own. who knows how long it has been down there.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/d61683ac.jpg)
Bill
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helllo all,
i drove to Bristol RI today to pick up my new tank. I have to give Luthers welding an honorable mention. the tank was exact on all specs, on-time, clean, made to order. I am very happy.
I test fitted it into the coffin with the lid on and its a perfect fit.
ultimately i got a 43 gallon tank
1 1/2 OD fill'
5/8 OD vent
Ground tab
3/8 OD pick-up WITHOUT the anti siphon valve (Thanks SKOOT)
I put the pick up towards the middle of the tank and had them run a tygon tube to the back.
The sending unit was pre-installed for me.
here are some pics.
the dimensions are 63 3/4 by 21 1/2 by 7 1/2.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/747435b1.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/2eb5a20c.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/59f48368.jpg)
I have a question. Before adhering the FRP with 5200, 3M suggests using their product General Adhesive Cleaner, but that would cost more money and I am so far over budget I want to avoid it if unneccessary. Does anyone have a proven alternative solvent that can be applied to aluminum, while not interfering with the 5200's ability to adhere. :?:
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Acetone or xylene.
You have made a lot of progress! Tank looks great! As do the rest of your ideas!
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Its official name is the "DAM anti-siphon valve" :lol:
As for the 5200, I lightly scuffed the areas with sand paper before applying the 5200, seem to work just fine.
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It was a good day in the garage.
I started by abrading the tank where i will be adhering the FRP.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/fa0fd543.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/012f534e.jpg)
Then gave it a cleaning with xylene.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/482cc8e7.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/372f3f9a.jpg)
decided I didnt have the temp or time to work the 5200, so instead i decided to fill all the holes with six10.
I had a ton of screw holes in the coffin lid
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/a7e4a038.jpg)
I had a ton of old stripped holese where the mahogany rail was secured.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/c81d5017.jpg)
Other places with holes
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/6be6cd93.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/56110626.jpg)
I had a bunch of cheaply covered holes from an old transducer. I drill them out, sanded them, and filled them
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/486d3d14.jpg)
i used some of the epoxy to seal around thu through hull fitting hole and screw holes where i will be re-installing the new one.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/ed21e745.jpg)
i decided, since i had all the equipment on hand, to remove a speed sensor on the port side. if i decide to re-install it, i will add it to the transducer mounting board I am install on the starboard side.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/1d8cd1c3.jpg)
the six10 says apply at temps over 50. i applied it at 60 degrees , but 6 hours later night hit and now its in the forties. Anyone know what this will affect. :?:
I had a little time left so i decided to take out the cheap ground post bolt that was in place and replace it with a new bus bar for ground collection.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/66408ccb.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/de54fd01.jpg)
I lubed everything with electrical contact grease on both bars.
Thats when I discovered that my "fuse holder" was wired. I really thought it was a fuse holder, but on closer inspection it is a power source for something and a 20 amp fuse
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/03429e32.jpg)
Does anyone know what for :?:
sunday its gonna be in the high sixties, so i will be breaking out the sandpaper then gelcoat for the epoxy holes; 5200, 4200, and maybe I'll get to the 4000UV.
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Are you sure the gelcoat will stick to the 610 epoxy?
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Crap. :x
Your reply got me to do a websearch and now i see the prob. West says it will take the gelcoat, but spectrum says the gelcoat wont take the epoxy.
great. :(
So i am really only worried about uv exposure on the some spots on the transom and deck. All the other holes will be covered by the console or mahogany opr the transducer mounting plate.
I still have the package of spectrum gelcoat. TO Be CLEar, can i use this on all the nicks I have in the hull of my boat (was the boat originally gelcoated over polyester resin? :?: :?: :?:
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/486d3d14.jpg)
and this one
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/1d8cd1c3.jpg)
so I need a small amount of paint (less than an ounce) that can go over epoxy and the surrounding gelcoat on this area for uv protection. Note there is some antifouling paint in the area too.
What paint do i buy for this? :?: :?: :?:
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Bill, check your PMs!
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Hello all,
So I just got some great help from Slvrlng.
He explained the process of removing the epoxy from the transom holes and redo then with Bondo glass, which can then be gelcoated with the spectrum gelcoat repair kit. I did some quick research and it is probably going to cost me about as much to do that as it is to get some epoxy adhering paint, so I am left with a decision as to which way to go
So i guess the deciding factor is, which makes a structural more sound and watertight repair, Bondo or epoxy resin.
I have easter plans at 3 today and a very long week of work, so unfortunately whatever i do wont be until next weekend now. i figure I can decide what to do by midweek and get the supplies before the weekend.
Thanks in advance
Bill
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Man that was a long week.
So i finally have some solid time to move this along, got my (hopefully) last shipment of supplies in today and am moving forward.
I have two fittings going in.
The new vent and the replacement thru-hull drain for the middle fishbox. I was uncertain about the material around the lower thru hull hole so i wetted it out last weekend with a little epoxy to seal any core. Then I fabricated some backer plates and some matching plugs to hold them in place for the initial cure, then once I could work with them without too much mess I installed the fittings with a light pressure to seal up. They came out very solid and well sealed.
Vent fitting hole
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/99699c87.jpg)
Dowel for initial hold
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/097a81a5.jpg)
4200 and backer plate
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/945743e4.jpg)
initial set
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/93f0bc8c.jpg)
Tomorrow I 4000UV the fitting in and secure the vent hose
The Thru-Hull drain
Old thru hull drain
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/670a9182.jpg)
inside before sanding
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/edbd2cd7.jpg)
The old backer plate, a piece of 1/4 plywood
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/fca71c75.jpg)
The new backer plate with 4200 bedding
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/98aac1fe.jpg)
The thru hull hole after intiial cure and removal of plug
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/d5ea3a63.jpg)
I also did the 5200 bedding for the FRP strips. didnt go as smooth as i hoped, but got it done right eventually. took 3 full tubes. I followed the pascoe method first which was to cover the entire surface of the FRP with 5200 and then press it onto the tank, but the tank surface had a slight mild wave around the baffles, so I had small space in places.
I ended up putting a full covering on the tank as well, pressed the two together, then ran a bead of 5200 around the entire edge of each piece. came back an hour later and touched up a few spots and its been curing since last Friday. Lots of humidity, but its hard to the touch now.
Abrading the tank
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/3633311a.jpg)
taping off the sections
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/012f534e.jpg)
after 5200 applied, but before i cleaned up the splotches with solvent
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/1caf4ede.jpg)
Tomorrow i secure the deck fill, vent and thru hull, then pre-fit the tank so i can hoses cut to the right size.
Byu Saturday I should have the tank bedded in the coffin and starting on final install of the hoses.
-
Nice work :thumleft:
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Got out of work later than I thought so didnt get as much dont as I hoped, but was able to 3M 4000UV the vent, deck fill and fishbox drain thru hull in tonight.
I have each of them tighten down just to snug, so as to not squeeze out all the caulk. Its takes 24 to surface cure to 3/8 inch, so tomorrow morn I will snug them up.
Deckfill taped up and ready to go
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/789d1630.jpg)
Vent in and caulked. I am going to run the hose up first before running to the tank. Seems a good way to keep splash from getting in tank.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/60b6c784.jpg)
Heres the thru hull
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/f9f97f73.jpg)
i also brought the tank in the boat to measure and pre-fit the lines. Getting Excited :cheers:
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/daf36c2b.jpg)
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:thumright:
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Today was a productive day.
i started by tightening down the previously 4000 uv'd fittings and attached the hoses, double clamped.
I also crimped, shrink wrapped, and connected he ground for the deckfill
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/12ddc049.jpg)
I did the same for the vent and the thruhull.
Having attached one side of the hoses, I cut the other ends to length.
I pulled out the tank and put down the 5200 for the tank strips
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/4794d75c.jpg)
I dropped the tank in and connected the fill, vent, and ground to the tank
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/e95ca592.jpg)
I connected the pick-up hose
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/dcd0ba0f.jpg)
I added some closed cell foam around the lines under the deck to give them some stability. Not alot, just in a few spots.
Then i went to the movies with my wife.
When i got home I checked the foam, which had expanded nicely and i pulled off the vent hose to make sure the foam hadnt collapsed it..whjich it hadnt. That was good news.
So next i got the coffin lid on the table, busted out the UV silicone and bedded both access hatches. I also drilled out some form fitting holes for the fuel pick-up line and the sending/ground wiring.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/5516b7f8.jpg)
Off to bed and at 10:00 tomorrow, back at it.
Night
Bill
When I got home (10:00 pm) I went back out and
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Got home today and dropped the console so i cut mark and pre-drill the holes in the mahogany base to match the console. drilled them then installed them some silicone marine caulk.
I then ran two beads of silicone, one arouund the mahogany/deck and one around the mahogany/console.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/P1100071.jpg)
She loks like a boat again and looks better than before.
I went from an old half rotted wooden frame that was held to the deck by 4 screws and a console attached the the wood frame with 14 screws; to a varnished mahogany frame held down by 13 1 inch SS screws, a console, held to that by 18 screws and the whole thing sealed with silicone.
and underneath is a 43 gallon tank, How cool is that :D .
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/P1100065.jpg)
Almost done. A few more days and she comes out of the garage for a cleaning and a waxing.
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Nice job :thumleft:
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Lookin' good Bill. :salut:
I was never good at the "aesthetics" of caulking though I'm fair at the functional end.
I guess it's all in the wrist. :scratch:
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good work :cheers:
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The list of things yet to do is getting pretty short.
Tonight i connected the tank to the shut off valve and connected the primer hose to the other end, then I wrapped the lines
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/P1100086.jpg)
next I connected the sending unit
I also ran the 10 gauge wire from the mounting stud on that tank to the ground collection bus. The whole line goes - Fill to tank stud, tank stud to collection bus. The ground for the sender is seperate.
This leads me to a :?:
What is the other screw on the sending unit plate for? The left one at 4 o clock?
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/P1100079.jpg).
in the pic the center stud goes to the gauge and the side tab goes to ground. Correct?
Anyway, next i connected the wiring back to the batteries and then covered and strapped them down
Before the renovation
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/d295f911.jpg)
note the seat is full of batteries and oil reservoir and the console is stuffed with a gas tank
after
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/P1100091.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/P1100092.jpg)
Now I got some dry storage on the boat.
Since the electrical all works I cleaned up the bilge
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/P1100093.jpg)
and sealed around the new pump wiring
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/P1100094.jpg)
Tomorrow, seal a few more spots, put the seat back in, update the software on my gps, connect my VHF and GPS with a new cable, so i can use the DSC feature. Still got to do work on the hull, but hopefully I can get it on the water Friday for a test run.
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This leads me to a :?:
What is the other screw on the sending unit plate for? The left one at 4 o clock?
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/P1100079.jpg).
in the pic the center stud goes to the gauge and the side tab goes to ground. Correct?
I'd guess it's a ground lug also, for those who would rather (or already) have a ring terminal connection on the grounding wire. :idea:
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Well, just about down.
Today I added the transducer mounting plate and re-installed the transducer, I put the seat back on, sealed a couple spots with some silicone.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/P1100099.jpg)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/P1100105.jpg)
I connected my GPS to my VHF and registered for an MMSI number, so now I can use DSC calling in an emergency
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/P1100101.jpg)
i also wet sanded the epoxy holes on the transom, but have to wait for it to warm before I can cover them.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb452/imonna196/P1100097.jpg)
Tomorrow i am going to take it out of the garage, put it on muffs, add some gas/oil/stabilizer and see how it goes.
Also gonna check the trailer and change the lube in the bearings/trim tilt/steering if needed.
Friday I'll take it to the lake for a workout and will have my fingers crossed.
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Well, ran great, filled great, everything worked....going to bed happy and Monday it heads down to the shore.
Thanks everyone for all the help.
Bill
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:cheers: