Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Electrical => Topic started by: TheKid on February 28, 2011, 02:45:35 PM
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Well, I ripped out the rats nest of wires on the ol' FF. What a mess.
I'm ready to start over. First question is the switch panel, do you think it needs to be the water resistant verity? Huge price difference and wondering if it is really necessary. Of course I would prefer it but the extra $100 could go to other items that need replacing.
The previous dash components were not water resistant....and the dash is somewhat protected. Aside from rain with the bimini down and wash down spray I'm not sure what else could get to it. Unless it's just the salt air and general moisture from boating, but then why would they even bother selling non resistant panels. What do you think?
Part of me says F' it. I only plan on keeping this boat a few years. Then there is the do it right the first time mentality that I cant shake. Then there is the question of malfunctions offshore.
Darn, It seems like I always answer my own questions just by typing them out here.
What do you use?
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I'll simplify the question.
What type of switches are used in your boat? Water proof or not or dont know or dont care?
Every answer is a valuable answer as something can be learned from everything and anything.
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I'll simplify the question.
Always helps. :idea:
What type of switches are used in your boat? Water proof or not or dont know or dont care?
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/sierr ... /index.htm (http://www.marineengine.com/parts/sierra_marine/catalog.html?http://www.marineengine.com/parts/sierra_marine/index.htm)
Scroll down on left to "toggle switches", clicky.
Third one down. I also use optional rubber boot. OEM style for a 1991 WAC.
Every answer is a valuable answer as something can be learned from everything and anything.
Philosophy is wasted on me but I agree with that logic. 8)
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"Water-proof" is used quite often in descriptions, when "Water-resistant" might be the better choice of terms. Unless something is totally, without a doubt, beyond description potted, i.e. totally encapsulated in water-proof potting compound (an elastomeric compound would be nice), ain't nothing totally waterproof...
Carling toggles with the boots are good, but they aren't water-proof...
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As Bob stated, nothing is totally waterproof (except water).
These are just my thoughts.
I purchased my 84 CCP in 96. Rewired/rebuilt/replaced many things. I did not however replace the OEM installed rocker switches. They continued to function (every one) until I pulled the batteries around December. 26 years. I'd dare say, every owner of that boat got their money's worth on that item.
91 WAC. I replaced all the toggle switches/boots and fuse holders with factory type (OK, so I like retro). Most worked, one had been replaced. 18 years+/-. Not bad so replacing with same type works for me.
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"Water-proof" is used quite often in descriptions, when "Water-resistant" might be the better choice of terms. Unless something is totally, without a doubt, beyond description potted, i.e. totally encapsulated in water-proof potting compound (an elastomeric compound would be nice), ain't nothing totally waterproof...
Carling toggles with the boots are good, but they aren't water-proof...
as someone who is around boats 9 hours a day, 6 days a week, that is a true statement :salut:
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I thought I was confusing people with the water resistant question in the first post. :shaking2:
If nothing else I knew I would get someone to post about the difference between water resistant and water proof adding the second. :thumright:
Thanks guys. I'm just going to use the plain jane breaker panel I have. If anything happens off shore I'll just hot wire anything I need. I have plenty of circuit protection built in to this job.
Although, I may look for a boot for these switches/breakers.
Mahalo