Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Center Console Professional (CCP) Rebuilds => 222 CCP Rebuilds => Topic started by: ncrowe on February 26, 2011, 07:17:02 PM
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Hello all - have a 78 ccp 222 - overall great boat - can't complain - got it for a song....BUT - cosmetically this poor boat is a disaster - previous owner tried to re-gelcoat with a roller - and as far as I can tell - no duratec :shock: so it is a little - um - :scratch: - see pics
Tank was changed in 2002 - floor was redone then - not the best work - but solid - no rattles, no water intrusion, actually this boat is by far the driest I have ever owned, and I have had a new edgewater 265 ex, and new 23 concept - both would dump at least a gallon of water when back on the trailer, this boat, bone dry even after a hard day in slop
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(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/0948f7b9.jpg)
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Okay - figured out how to upload pics - DANG that was easier than I thought -
here are a few more
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/03841a65.jpg)
Here's the console when I got it - pieced together grab rail (jb weld) and a spider web cracked windshield which might as well been pained solid black - couldn't see anything through it...LOL... but did keep the wind off my face
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/4311e975.jpg)
Here you can see the floor patched from when the tank was done - solid but lumpy, sloppy, the tank was sealed with tar on the exterior (I think) and the previous owner did not put a filler hose on the tank - instead - an access hatch and unscrew a plug - fillerup :shock: - simple and effective
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(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/b0d0c325.jpg)
Look carefully - you can see my access hole to fillerup...LOL... and a fiberglass leaning post - solid alright, but no cushion for my butt :cry:
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/320568959247_2521045.jpg)
Missing teak door up front, teak inserts for the cubby space near the bow - missing the grab bars for the bow - not much to complain about when the boat runs as well as it does
I have some nice covers for the console and the engine - so that was good
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Has a unique leaning post on her :thumright:
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So - my plan is to collect all my parts I am going to use for the rebuild and then go to town on it over a few weeks and get it done.
I want to replace the floor - remove the splashwell and just go with level floor to transom
Add a livewell leaning post
new center console and tower
I have a 120 gal tank that I might add to the boat (Does anyone know if it'll fit?)
reinstall the fill tubes for the tank
move the batteries under the console
get a bow dodger
new rubrail
paint the hull - thinking of gelcoat with duratec - I hear it's not that hard to do and I definitely want the bottom of the hull to be the same color as the sides - thinking a seafoam green - some sort of blueish - greenish pastel
Keeping the coffin - I love that thing - so does my wife - so does my boy - just going to pull it apart and regelcoat and try to insulate it better to become a proper cooler up front and dry storage/fishbox if needed
I'm going to post questions in next post - need some advice
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Has a unique leaning post on her :thumright:
certainly does - very practical, but not so comfortable - can get cooler underneath and have room for all my gear in it - no rod holders though
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So here are a few questions -
Anyone removed the splashwell on this hull and moved batteries forward? Can anyone who has done this share pics - I want to add the livewell/leaning post with 50 gal livewell - I figure it weighs about the same as the material I would remove from the splashwell - and when moving batteries under console - the added weight of the water in the livewell should balance out and leave me sitting the same in the water (hopefully)
towers on ccps? anyone have one to show off? should I add a bracket for the weich or not bother......
I'm going to go with coosa for the floor - I think - wood is cheaper for sure and will last just as long if done right - any thoughts?
Anyone added a bigger tank to one of these hulls? What can I expect for room under there?
Thanks for all the help - I am going to take a few pics of the boat now - and some detailed pics of what I am talking about with the tank - the floor - some of the paint issues, etc
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At least one member is/has removed the OEM splash well. I don't know if he has photos or not. (paging Keith K.)
I moved (as others have) the batteries forward, under the center console. No pics but not very hard.
There is a cavern under the coffin box. Adding a larger tank would only require creating a platform for same. The OEM tub is too small if I remember correctly. There was room aft of the stock (85 gal) tank but I don't think a 120 would fit. I'm often wrong though. You just need to measure. Plenty of room forward and if replacing the deck, it will be wide open.
Good luck.
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Decided to take a few pics to show all what I am dealing with....
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/5611f954.jpg)
This gives a good idea of what I am dealing with - slapped on gelcoat with a roller
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/5b91a3dc.jpg)
OH-RAGE peel galore...LOL....
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/b358d0f6.jpg)
I was told "even has the original rubrails" - he taped them up to protect them when the gelcoat was done :roll:
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/aff3c316.jpg)
Here you can see the attention to detail when it came to the splashwell - one of the reasons I want to cut it out
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/0c8d401a.jpg)
Excellent tape work - along with the plentyful use of silicone and sealant to prevent any water intrusion (also prevents any idea of which wire is which and where they go, etc, etc)
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/2bc1ce0b.jpg)
he did tape the trim tabs very well - can even see how thick the gelcoat is that was rolled on
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Here's some more....enjoy :thumright:
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/79599ec5.jpg)
WHy bother removing the thru hulls when you can gelcoat them in place to ensure no water gets in :scratch:
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/4dbf9056.jpg)
WHile we are at it - gelcoat the splashwell in place, make sure to cover all evidence that it can be removed or where any of the screws might be hidden - and don't forget to gelcoat that stainless cleat - we don't want it to rust or anything :shock:
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/77e3dc75.jpg)
Gelcoat Gelcoat EVERYWHERE - mwoooohaahahahahaaa
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/5d571cdb.jpg)
I like that textured look GUESS WHAT.... I GOT A FEVER AND THE ONLY PRESCRIPTION IS MORE GELCOAT!!!!!!!! (kinda like Christopher Walkin SNL "need more cowbell" - for those who don't know it http://www.buzzhumor.com/videos/28180/More_Cowbell (http://www.buzzhumor.com/videos/28180/More_Cowbell) ) LOL
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/36feaf79.jpg)
Definitely a 30/100 - at 30 mph and 100 feet she looks awesome!!!
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Best of luck on your face lift. You are going to become 1 with the sanders and pads "daniel son"!
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Best of luck on your face lift. You are going to become 1 with the sanders and pads "daniel son"!
Thanks - I tried my orbital yesterday - was pretty easy to smooth out, but took a little time - I did a 12"x12" section = 20 minutes - so if my math is right and I start right away my hull should be smooth November 26th, 2041 (of course that's taking into account daylight savings....)
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ANother question for those in the know - how well does a 222 ccp handle a tower - found one that is in great shape for decent money, but floor of tower is 7 ft and I am wondering about the stability of the ccp hull
thanks for the help!!
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I've had two adults up in mine and you cant really tell they are up there. Mine is on top of the tee top. No Helm, just a spotter tower. I suggest you make it a folding tower to get under low bridges and that wayward telephone or CATV line that are notriously not 13' 6" off the ground when you trailer her. Everybody loves to ride up there when cruising or spotting Cobia. I will admit, I'm not sure how it would be in 5 foot rolling sea across her beam but you pick you days!
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Hey I think I saw the ad for that boat on Craigslist. Looks like you have something to work with there.... What brand sandpaper are you gonna use? I want to buy stock in that company! :lol:
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Hey Wingtime,
You will know this; I remember reading there is like 40,000 # of paint on a 747, you think this AS is close!
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Hey Wingtime,
You will know this; I remember reading there is like 40,000 # of paint on a 747, you think this AS is close!
Well, I'm thinking a tad less - but still a whole lot more than needed...LOL
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I've had two adults up in mine and you cant really tell they are up there. Mine is on top of the tee top. No Helm, just a spotter tower. I suggest you make it a folding tower to get under low bridges and that wayward telephone or CATV line that are notriously not 13' 6" off the ground when you trailer her. Everybody loves to ride up there when cruising or spotting Cobia. I will admit, I'm not sure how it would be in 5 foot rolling sea across her beam but you pick you days!
Do you have a pic of your setup - would be greatly appreciated :thumright:
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I just picked up a high five prop - going to test it out this weekend - hopefully it stays calm enough to do so - we have had some pretty windy days here in SW Florida this week.
I will keep you all posted for the results
Also - started the sanding project - not as difficult as I thought, but definitely time consuming - can't wait to start digging in
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... we have had some pretty windy days here in SW Florida this week.
Really windy today in Sarasota - too windy to go camping on the 230 as I had planned - not only Small Craft Adv but also "Exercise Caution"s through Sat night :(
Good luck on the prop test :salut:
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High Five prop a keeper - 2000 yammi 200 - had a 14.5 x 17 on it prior, ran great but would over-rev if pushed hard - the high five is a 13.5 x 19 and i have to tell you - jumps out of the hole - takes the chop much better than before - and kept the motor from having to work hard - 4000 rpm gave me 34 mph (vs 30 mph before) - pull it back to an easy 3000 rpm and I'm doing 25mph - the sweet spot seems to be around 3500 rpm and 30 mph - motor quiets down and reminds me of my 4 strokes on the edgewater 265. I have no idea of fuel burn numbers as I don't have the fuel flow meter on the boat, but has to better than before - especially given I could keep the boat on plane at much lower rpm.
I didn't really get to play with top mph as my trim button on the shifter decided to start giving me trouble today - goes down fine, but sparatically goes up - have to fiddle with it a little - I did hit 43 mph at 5200 rpm - wouldn't really spin any higher as I had the motor trimmed down and it wouldn't trim back up - so the bow was plowing - I figure I could add another 300 - 500 rpm and another 5 mph with the boat trimmed right - we'll see - I'll order the part this week and play some more.
I did get started on sanding this mess out - did the gunnel on Starboard side - hit with 60 grit on the orbital - came out nice - I figure I can work my way up to 220 it should look good - I'll decide whether to go with gelcoat or brightside or a 2 part (probably perfection) - my neighbor used brightside on his 16 footer and said it was really nice to work with - held up great - and he rolled and tipped it - looked like it had been sprayed - any comments on brightside?
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Relocated the fuel filter to inside the hull - mounted it to transom - put a hatch there , but don't like the look of the hatch - will do fine for now though - and it'll keep the sun off more of the fuel line (I'm going to move primer bulb in there too when I get some more fuel hose.
Noticed I have a bow in the transom as others have had, transom is solid, no movement at all, but still giving me my excuse to close in transom and add bracket - will plan on doing it a little later in the season, would like to get through the summer as is for now.
Also pulled out top part of splashwell, I am seeing just how much space I'm going to gain once it's all out
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SO here are the pics of th progress so far -
What it looked like before
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/aff3c316.jpg)
Close up
Now what it looks like now
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/6a6ec8f0.jpg)
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Different angles
Before
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/320568959247_2521047.jpg)
After
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/3564e670.jpg)
Now I know the hatch is HUGE for where it is, but the access is now excellent, and when I close in the transom - it won't matter anyways.....
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Here's a pic of the bow
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/5a302383-1.jpg)
Point A measures 3/16" and Point B measures 5/16" - so there is a bow of 1/8" - not too bad and I'm sure not any cause for immediate concern - any thoughts?
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I need some feedback about this - looks worse than I thought (or am I crazy?) - seems solid, but don't want to take any chances
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/1d78a982.jpg)
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff492/nigelcrowe1/1784a760.jpg)
The total amount of the bow is 1/2" - anyone have any idea of how bad that is?
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It is quite amazing how bad a transom can get and still support the engine and thrust. Someone has already added the plate to yours to help stiffen her up. My 73' with twin 115`s is no exception and with original transom. Once you get her all rubbed out and working, take her out and see how much the engine moves while underway. My transom breathes about 3/8"-1/2" of an inch in heavy chop with both engines tucked in. I have no visible cracking really anywhere around the transom connection points or cap; just a little spider webbing here and there. Unless that engine is really moving around and you have lots of cracking; run with it and avoid the Monte Carlo starts and she will be fine.
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Bought my 222 CCP with the same "bow" that you have. Mine didn't have any kind of bracket installed. If it were me, I would pull the motor off along with the support plate and see what you have. That will give you a chance also to have a stronger bracket made as well as to determining where the water intrusion might be. That looks to be a big "bow" even with the support plate.
Take a look at my thread and you can see what my friend Mike had made for me. It appears to have removed 95% of the "bow" out and we are not seeing any movement now. It is safe to say that we are both looking at a transom somewhere down the line. Here is what we did for mine.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6577&start=0 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6577&start=0)
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Started with electrical today - what a mess - luckily the boat didn't catch fire....... the PO had the Portside battery POS bridged to the Starboard NEG - WHOA!!!! Had the starter POS direct to Portside POS and used NEG side as the switch (perco) - it worked, not sure how - most of the connections and splices are done with twist caps (residential) and a $h!t load of silicone - I'm going to redo everything in the bilge and running from the console (new batt location).
I'll take pics and post the rewire - should be all done by Sunday - weather has been crappy this week so I'll have the time
PS - found my transducer wire had cuts it it - can I splice it??? looks to be about 5 wires in the sheath, a few had been cut through - any help would be great
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How bad are the cuts? Just slightly in the skin in places....and in some places nearly severed? Or both?
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Looks like a lot of fun.
For the wiring, you most certainly can cut and splice the wire. But, before you do so, see if yo want to route it a different way. It would be easier to pull bare cable in tight spots then a cable with a connector on the end.
For splicing multi conductors I like to space out each connection an inch or two apart using solder and individual heatshrink. Then one larger heat shrink over the whole thing. This eliminates a big bulge. You can even use a little grease in the big shrink edges to hide the internal connections from water intrusion.
You can buy twisted shielded multi-conductor from an electrical supply house if you need more length too.
I'm right there with you. Have all my cables pulled. Started wiring the new bennett 5000 control tonight and plan on finishing up the dash tomorrow.
Have fun.
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How bad are the cuts? Just slightly in the skin in places....and in some places nearly severed? Or both?
BOTH - but in one spot - the transducer wire is severed almost all the way through 3 or 4 of the wires running through it - I'll splice them and use heat shrink - we'll see if it works after - I really don't want to have to buy another transducer - it's the bronze thru hull - $200 + :shock:
Thanks for the support guys
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For splicing multi conductors I like to space out each connection an inch or two apart using solder and individual heatshrink. Then one larger heat shrink over the whole thing.
I agree with TheKid, stagger your splices so as not to create a big bulge in your multiconductor. Like TheKid mentioned use solder splices because they'll be the lowest profile splices and use heatshrink that has a built in adhesive so when you shrink it, it seals the splice preventing any water from getting into it. If the original multiconductor has a shield, make sure you splice it as well to prevent any noise from affecting the signal especially if the multiconductor is running side by side with any wires that may be emitting EMF.
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Got everything done - batteries in console, rewired primary bilge pump - have not painted bilge yet - i think that will be next week's project - I'll head out tomorrow afternoon to testrun, should all be great!
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Have been using the boat alot lately - not really caring about the looks department, sure it would be nice to have a better looking boat, but this girl does the job and does it well.
QUESTION - looking to pull out splashwell and replace with flat floor, have the 3/4 coosa - does anyone know the thickness of the floor? This will be more of a temporary fix as I'm going to clos ein the transom and add bracket, but between now and then would love to have no splashwell :D
I'll post pics here again real soon of progress - love the relocated batteries, changed ride a little and added space