Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Electrical => Topic started by: gotime242 on August 24, 2010, 06:25:09 PM
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Well guys, im a bit bummed. We drove the old boat (89 Aquasport Osprey 200, same year evinrude 150) down to the keys for a vacation. Ive never had an electrical problem with the boat until today.
We were driving normally, then all the gauges died. I foolishly stopped (in an ok place to be stranded for a while) and that was that. From then on the key didn't do anything, there were no signs of power at all. The battery didnt die, there was absolutely nothing.
I took my spare battery and put it in the old ones place incase a cell inside had died and was grounding the system. I then took out the master Batt On/Off big switch under the console as well as what seemed to be the main fuse and eliminated them. I tried to find any fuse or any broken wire that would have caused that and i was unsuccessful. I tried to get to the Ig/Acc key switch and it seemed like all the wires were still attached to the back of it. I couldnt access it too well, and without a closer look i couldnt hotwire the boat. I then disconnected all the wires to the engine incase it was grounding everything out...nothing. A buddy on the phone said the engine will run without the wiring harness attached...so w/ the wires to the boat disc i put the original batt right on the starter to crack it, and it wouldnt fire...had fuel...no ignition. Then i put everything back together as to how it was, and tried to crack the engine thinking "well...it ran before without the electrical working" and it didnt anymore.
So i dont know, here we are down in the keys with a broken boat. Ill have another look at it, i really kinda think its the ignition assembly. We might have a local mechanic take a look as well.
Any ideas? Thanks!!!
-Dylan
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Dylan,
Did you bring your toolbox with you? Do you have a meter? Check for voltage on the purple wire out of your engine harness. That is your ignition power wire. Also check for voltage on the red and black on the back side of the ignition switch. And check for any fuses on the powerhead.
Also check your neutral safety switch wires (yellow w/red stripe) on the ignition switch, see if one came off the switch. I would say check your kill switch, but if that's effed up, the engine will crank, but won't turn over.
Given you a variety of things to choose from. But most of all, make sure the batt cables are seriously tight...
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Thanks for the quick response. Unfortunately i dont have a voltmeter...
Ill check all that stuff though, and fuses on the powerhead...u mean under the actual engine cover?
Thanks.
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Thanks for the quick response. Unfortunately i dont have a voltmeter...
Ill check all that stuff though, and fuses on the powerhead...u mean under the actual engine cover?
Thanks.
Yep...probably on the starboard side...
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Maybe this will help too!
http://shop2.evinrude.com/Index.aspx?s1 ... 0&siteid=1 (http://shop2.evinrude.com/Index.aspx?s1=40e09fd708d20f32f230b1ef16efb797&catalog_id=0&siteid=1)
Just look for your model number and you can zoom in on the parts.
Looks like part number 23 is a 20 amp fuse.
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OK, Job one is to get the engine running. Unplug the engine wire harness under the cowl. Its the large red plug. Get the emergency starter rope out of the pouch if its still there under the cowl. If not find 3-4 feet of 1/4 inch cord,tie a double square knot in the end, make a handle out of a piece tree limb or piece of broom handle, turn the enrichner valve to manual. prime the engine and make two or three turns around the flywheel hooking the knot in the notch in the flywheel. You may have to remove a plastic flywheel guard to gain access. Raise up the throttle only lever or handle and pull the engine over. They are not that hard to start with a rope believe it or not. If the motor trys to start, turn the enricher valve back to run position and keep trying to pull her over until she starts. This may take a couple of trys until she starts and runs. Unplugging the harness completely isolates the engine from the electrical system and basically she becomes a manual start outboard just like the old days. This only works on carburated outboards. Just remember the only way to shut the engine down is to turn the enrichner valve to manual and flood the engine to stop her. This will atleast get you back the ramp. I suspect you have a shorted key switch and this is why everything that is key switch activated is dead. Keep the battery hooked up when running the engine just to keep from frying the voltage regulater or charge coils. I have done this before on a 200 Johnson and got home. The power trim should still work on the cowl mounted switch to raise and lower the motor at the ramp.
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Fitz,
Well done! Get's the "grounding the coil" out of the loop...
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Great advice Fitz. I'm thinking he lost the positive power feed to the key switch. I don't know much about rudes but I would assume they have a fuse for the key switch positive feed under the cowl. So thats where I would look first. Then I'd look for a loose connection then the key switch. He still has ground since when he turned off the key the motor shut down. Like Seabob says turning the key off grounded the coil or magneto.
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Wow = it's been a while since I've heard anybody advise on pull starting a 150, but ya gotta do what you gotta do...
Your problem sounds like a bad battery lead or terminal when there's no juice anywhere. Go to a nearby Lowes or Radio Shack or drug store or whatever and get a cheap meter - $10 or so will get one - or as a minimum get a 12 volt test light. You need to find where the power stops - my bet would be pretty close to the battery... Look for a corroded terminal on a battery lead could be hot side or ground - it could also be a spot in the cable that has corroded and separated. Check the battery disconnect switch - you have have power going in and out? Check for juice at the starter to ground on the engine. Don't do anything drastic like hotwiring unless you really need to - your problem should not be very complex, it's just hidden.
Good luck - don't panic - just work from the battery out until you find the problem.
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My guess is that the ignition switch has failed.
Exact same thing happened on my 86 170 with a 115 Johnson.
Fortunately it happened at the dock upon my return but it matches your symptoms exactly.
Just a thought.
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Wow, thanks guys.
Im gona head out and pickup a ignition switch and voltmeter. I hope that does something.
Really appreciate the help, ill be working on it the next couple hours and let you guys know how it goes.
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Gotime,
Here are two wire diagrams for a 89 150. I wasn't sure if you have the 9 amp or 35 amp so I posted a link to either one. In the lower left is the diagram for the switch. If you follow the red wire with the purple trace you will find a fuse. Check that out. That red wire with the purple trace supplies the power for your key switched accessories such as your instruments. Good luck!
http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc_pi ... 175_9A.jpg (http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc_pics/wiring/1989_89_150_175_9A.jpg)
http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc_pi ... 75_35A.jpg (http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc_pics/wiring/1989_89_150_175_35A.jpg)
Also here is a link to the color code for OMC:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refere ... e.html#OMC (http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/wireColorCode.html#OMC)
And to the key switch:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refere ... witch.html (http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ignitionSwitch.html)
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Gotime,
Here are two wire diagrams for a 89 150. I wasn't sure if you have the 9 amp or 35 amp so I posted a link to either one. In the lower left is the diagram for the switch. If you follow the red wire with the purple trace you will find a fuse. Check that out. That red wire with the purple trace supplies the power for your key switched accessories such as your instruments. Good luck!
http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc_pi ... 175_9A.jpg (http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc_pics/wiring/1989_89_150_175_9A.jpg)
http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc_pi ... 75_35A.jpg (http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc_pics/wiring/1989_89_150_175_35A.jpg)
Also here is a link to the color code for OMC:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refere ... e.html#OMC (http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/wireColorCode.html#OMC)
And to the key switch:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refere ... witch.html (http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ignitionSwitch.html)
I'll never be able to get away from Jim Hebert... :shock:
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You guys nailed it.
Red wire, purple stripe...fuse blown in engine.
I ended up getting a voltmeter and tracing it back to that wire. Couldnt believe that small fuse in that bunch of wires caused this problem, and a seatow. Oh well...shame on me.
Anyway, found that and now keep a bunch of those fuses on the boat. Just kinda curious as to why it would of blown?? Wish i didnt do all the work/searching i did before checking that, but i guess ill know where to look next time.
Thanks a ton guys!!
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You guys nailed it.
Red wire, purple stripe...fuse blown in engine.
I ended up getting a voltmeter and tracing it back to that wire. Couldnt believe that small fuse in that bunch of wires caused this problem, and a seatow. Oh well...shame on me.
Anyway, found that and now keep a bunch of those fuses on the boat. Just kinda curious as to why it would of blown?? Wish i didnt do all the work/searching i did before checking that, but i guess ill know where to look next time.
Thanks a ton guys!!
Sometimes, because of age, they just fail...
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Just for the common knowledge, what amp fuse was it?
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Lewis, that wire is a 14GA at best, think it may be a 16. Looking at a 10A...